Speaker Replacement Opinions

[keyser_soze]

:dizzy: Thanks for taking the time to educate me , sounds almost like I can tackle this ! Have semi insulated doors so speakers should be do-able if I can just play-play these ?

No problem. With the speaker install adapters and the wire adapters everything will be plug and play except for mounting the 3.5" dash speaker.

TacoTunes has a lot of stereo stuff for Toyotas, their mounts are a little pricy but they are high quality. I though I remembered they had 3.5" mounts but I was wrong. The worst case is you have to make a small metal tab, its very easy.

 

[rigtec]

Stock HUD & speakers oem ! My worry/question is are cargo door speakers playing with/at same time as others (not n party mode) ? Mine rattle like hell under normal play so reason i'm looking for an upgrade ? Thanks ! Don't want anything outrageous . 135$ sounds ok

Hi oljedi,

You shouldn't need to spend more than $50 to $75 dollars for the tailgate speakers: 6.5 car speakers | eBay ...and everything on this page is superior to the factory equipment Toyota decided to through in our doors and tailgates. If you read the link I left in my previous post; "The Party mode tweak (non JBL)" you'll see that I'm not even using my tailgate speakers because... (1) I think that the nominal power (10 or 15 watts) from the headunit's rear channel might be better utilized at the rear doors where they can actually be heard by the frontseat listener(s).

And (2), the quality of the (non-jbl) factory standard speakers is beyond poor, it's truly shameful, and is why your's are very likely torn. If you haven't had an opportunity to view them for yourself, they can be seen in this thread (the dash and front door speakers: plenty or photos); http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/210591-alpine-1-dash-component-review.html I guaranty that the rear door and tailgate units are no better:

OEM paper-cone/foam surround


OEM plastic frame/magnetic structure...


There have been 'MANY' of our team mates here who have very successfully replaced their factory original speakers w/o taking a second mortgage and improved on their sound quality by 200%!

'Best to you'!

 

[oljedi11950]

Thanks Greg ! Between you & [MENTION=124049]keyser_soze[/MENTION] I've got a plan but 1st am going to unplug those rear & see how I like it , I for sure like to use the fade for balance . Nother ? previous owner , have a kicker breaker or the like off the battery would you guys happen to know what this might be for ?

 

[rigtec]

"...So if money, time, or installation skills are an issue you could always try just unplugging the rear speakers and see how that sounds..."

...don't forget that our rear speakers (tailgates & rear doors) are wired together "in-series", so if he unplugs any of them he'll lose the entire L & R rear channels; unless he uses jumpers across the speaker terminals he chooses to disconnect, allowing the remaining rear drivers to continue to be operative!

 

[rigtec]

Post edited: photos added to post #82

 

[xnodesirex]

Maybe someone can educate me a bit more, but why is it that normal (2way/3way) speakers are considerably less than components?

I understand the advantage of having separate woofer and tweeter, but I don't understand the pricing strategy I guess.

 

[tigger]

Nother ? previous owner , have a kicker breaker or the like off the battery would you guys happen to know what this might be for ?

Usually that would be for an amp install. Does it lead to anywhere? (like under the seat) But could be for any large accessory, fridge, compressor etc...

 

[tigger]

Maybe someone can educate me a bit more, but why is it that normal (2way/3way) speakers are considerably less than components?

I understand the advantage of having separate woofer and tweeter, but I don't understand the pricing strategy I guess.

1) Because they can
2) Requires an external crossover (more parts, more money)
3) Many include an array of mounting points for the tweeter
4) Sometimes, the components are of better quality

 

[jetblack3s]

Focal k series for me but then again it depends on what your budget is. Putting pretty much anything would be better than factory but of course far from good components with a good tune

 

[rigtec]

...and also, not to contradict anything that tigger has offered, but usually when a High or mid-frequency component is being constructed it's built with a specific system type and size in mind to replace e.g., four inch, mid-frequency driver, with a six bolt (or threaded) horn flange and a (FR) frequency range of 500 to 4khz @200 watts continuous...etc! Where as a two or three way full range driver will be cheaper to make because it's not being designed to match the parameters of another foreign system component!

"Good call [MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION]"! rig

 

[keyser_soze]

...don't forget that our rear speakers (tailgates & rear doors) are wired together "in-series", so if he unplugs any of them he'll lose the entire L & R rear channels; unless he uses jumpers across the speaker terminals he chooses to disconnect, allowing the remaining rear drivers to continue to be operative!

I know, by rear I meant both the doors and hatch. Honestly when just running my fronts nobody could tell. They were components bi-amped at 75w x4 so thats a big part of it. Might not work so well on stock fronts.

Maybe someone can educate me a bit more, but why is it that normal (2way/3way) speakers are considerably less than components?

I understand the advantage of having separate woofer and tweeter, but I don't understand the pricing strategy I guess.

Typically the components are higher quality. The crossovers are important factor in sound as well, they typically do a much better job than the little capacitors on coaxial speakers.

Then there is placement, components give you the freedom to mount the tweeter in a better location. In our 4Runners the coaxial will have a tweeter pointed at your feet.

 

[RiDE]

Has anyone replaced all their speakers with the JBL GX 2 ohm series speakers? I've got a 2011 Limited with the JBL sub and I'm thinking of just replacing the speakers with these GX speakers. I think I should get some pretty good results if I do this. Mainly interested in getting the 3.5" dash, 6x9 front doors and 6.5" rear doors and maybe 6x9's in the rear hatch. I think the factory JBL amp should be able to power these speakers no problem since they are 2ohm. Anyone have first hand experienece with this setup? TIA.

 

[tigger]

Has anyone replaced all their speakers with the JBL GX 2 ohm series speakers? I've got a 2011 Limited with the JBL sub and I'm thinking of just replacing the speakers with these GX speakers. I think I should get some pretty good results if I do this. Mainly interested in getting the 3.5" dash, 6x9 front doors and 6.5" rear doors and maybe 6x9's in the rear hatch. I think the factory JBL amp should be able to power these speakers no problem since they are 2ohm. Anyone have first hand experienece with this setup? TIA.

I installed a set of the GX600c and the GX602 in a Rav4. I thought they sounded OK. A little bright and harsh for my taste. They were powered off of a JBL amp (not stock) I think the Infinity Kappas I recently installed in a Frontier sounded much better.

 

[keyser_soze]

Has anyone replaced all their speakers with the JBL GX 2 ohm series speakers? I've got a 2011 Limited with the JBL sub and I'm thinking of just replacing the speakers with these GX speakers. I think I should get some pretty good results if I do this. Mainly interested in getting the 3.5" dash, 6x9 front doors and 6.5" rear doors and maybe 6x9's in the rear hatch. I think the factory JBL amp should be able to power these speakers no problem since they are 2ohm. Anyone have first hand experienece with this setup? TIA.

A few things. First off quality 6.5"s will sound just as good as 6x9s so no need to try to fit those in the hatch, also I doubt they would fit.

What are you going for sound wise? more clarity? More volume? I would recommend starting off with just the 3.5" in the dash. This is the cheapest option and will have the most noticeable change in sound.

Honestly I would leave the rear doors and hatch alone and save that money for a sub woofer and amp. A simple sub and 3.5" dash speakers would probably satisfy most people in the 4Runner.

 

[beee_24]

Help ?

I'm replacing tailgate speakers an want to no if someone can tell me on right side unplugged harness to speaker which is hot ab which is ground white an black wires ? Of the left I have a pink and yellow wire ?? What is hot an what is ground

 

[Neauxla]

Has anyone replaced all their speakers with the JBL GX 2 ohm series speakers? I've got a 2011 Limited with the JBL sub and I'm thinking of just replacing the speakers with these GX speakers. I think I should get some pretty good results if I do this. Mainly interested in getting the 3.5" dash, 6x9 front doors and 6.5" rear doors and maybe 6x9's in the rear hatch. I think the factory JBL amp should be able to power these speakers no problem since they are 2ohm. Anyone have first hand experienece with this setup? TIA.

Did you do this? Please do and let me know how it goes! Also, you gonna replace your sub?

 

[fastboarder]

Have been following a lot of these threads. Think I am on information overload. Very confused. Have a 2016 TE Premium, Entune/w nav. Have JBL GTO329's on order for the dash. Going to add a sub, still deciding underseat or throw a small JL 8 box in the rear.

Not going to add an amp for the door speakers or the hatch.

Confusing part - Is it worth it to replace the door and hatch speakers? Can those that have done this comment?

If it is worth it, for the door 6x9s are highs coming through the doors? (again not a JBL system, just Entune w/nav) I have read where this is just mid and base but see the 6x9s like the Alpines, have tweets.

Thanks so much in advance.

 

[fastboarder]

Kind of a bump... Have read all about the different configurations or evolution of those that started out small to ending of big after the twists and turns. I was curious for those who just replaced the factory speakers, was it loud enough?

I have a black interior, all the HU kits are silver, no go for me so staying with the OEM HU. If just changing out the speakers does not give a much louder experience, I was going to add a 4 channel amp, bridge dash, front doors, run the JL Audio Microsub (8"). Rear doors and hatch would run off the OEM HU.
If I did this, would you recommend an active LOC like the LC2i or could I get away without one?

Wish we could hear some of the results from the various configurations everyone has done. Thanks again

 

[tigger]

?

I have a black interior, all the HU kits are silver, no go for me so staying with the OEM HU.

If that is your reason for not going with an after market, you can easily paint the trim plate to match any color you want. I did mine in black.

 

[fastboarder]

That looks real nice Brian. Much better to match our interior. My truck is two weeks old, coming from a nice decked out H3 which is slowly giving up the ghost. I would be too worried on how that holds up compared to OEM. I am pretty good at scratching things. You do however have me thinking about black flake paint now. Other option might be a UV based powder coat.

So far I have bought or ordered:
Dash JBL GTO329 3.5's
Front doors JBL GTO928 6x9's
Rear doors and hatch - JBL GTO628 6.5's
Sub - JL Audio 8 inch Microsub CP108LG-W3v3

Metra 72-8104 wire harness adapters (front, rear, hatch)
Metra 82-8146 6x9 speaker adapters (front)
Extra door panel clips
Generic Toyota 6.5 plastic speaker adapters (rear, hatch)
GTMat 20sqr feet

Plan is to install (unless I hear some good input) the speakers minus the sub first to hear quality and volume.

After that is the choice to add mono amp just for sub or to expand the project to amplify the dash and front doors as well as the sub.

Seems like I am going the route of a lot of you in how the project expanded. Oy Vey!