speaker size clarification question

[ixcocoyxi]

so i learned that the front door speaker size is 6.75" and the rear is 5.25".

when i was looking for new speakers to buy, it says that the 6.5" fits as well. so is it .75 or .5? im about to order em on amazon but im not to sure about the size. if anything, i'll ask if the 6.5 comes with some adapter to fit the .75.

info on this subject would be great!

 

[shootmymime]

i thought it was 6.5 in the front and 4 in the rear.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

damn. crutchfield.com said it was 6.75 and 5.25. any one have any clarification??

 

[Doc2012]

Yes. 6.5" will fit PERFECT in the front.

4" is the back.

I bought 4 Rockford Fosgates for the truck, and had to get 4" Clarions for the back.

Make sure you get a bass reducer for the back, or you'll blow them. Ask me how I know,...

I'm going to be doing 6.5s all the way around though. Just gotta do some other projects first.....

 

[1blink]

damn. crutchfield.com said it was 6.75 and 5.25. any one have any clarification??

5.25 will fit in the back if you use speaker adapters, i bought adapters and spacers to make my 5.25 Polks fit back there. Buy these, make your own, or use 4" speakers for the rear doors.

I needed a hair more clearance on the back of the speaker to clear the window, so I built up the bracket some with silicone gasket maker before mounting the speakers.

adapter
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made

spacer
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made

 

[ixcocoyxi]

bass reducer?! never heard of those before. even if i have an aftermarket deck?

 

[Doc2012]

bass reducer?! never heard of those before. even if i have an aftermarket deck?

Yes. even if you have an aftermarket deck.

I'm running a JVC Arenal HU, Rockford Fosgate 6.5" Prime speakers in the front doors, and Clarion 4" in the back.

The 4" speakers are CONSTANTLY blown. When I went to the local shop here, they guy told me to use a "bass Reducer." Basically, it LOOKS like a capicator, but it's not. It gets wired into the positive side of the speaker, and does something with the signal or some bs. I don't know. I'm not an audio guy. I just know what sounds good to me.

They're like 10 bucks a piece for the things. If not less. should save the 4"ers in the back from blowing constantly.

 

[cfranck1]

Most are called "bass blockers"

Crutchfield has them for 9.99usd each.

Depends on the Hertz cut off you want.
Bass Blockers

 

[ixcocoyxi]

ughh.. maybe i wont change out the rears then. haha!!

 

[TheeMikeB]

I have JL 6.5s in the front and I put 5.25 JLs in the rear doors using the adapters mentioned above and have never blown them. I'm running a 5 channel KAPPA amp with a 10" sub and no issues.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Put 5 or 6.5 in the rear is easy. You only have to do a small amount of trimming with metal shears. It is easy just do it.

I have 6x9 Kappas in the rear. I don't recommend that but there is room.

 

[Singtoe]

Yes. even if you have an aftermarket deck.

I'm running a JVC Arenal HU, Rockford Fosgate 6.5" Prime speakers in the front doors, and Clarion 4" in the back.

The 4" speakers are CONSTANTLY blown. When I went to the local shop here, they guy told me to use a "bass Reducer." Basically, it LOOKS like a capicator, but it's not. It gets wired into the positive side of the speaker, and does something with the signal or some bs. I don't know. I'm not an audio guy. I just know what sounds good to me.

They're like 10 bucks a piece for the things. If not less. should save the 4"ers in the back from blowing constantly.

It is a capacitor.

High Pass Filters
High Pass filters allow high frequencies above a selected crossover frequency to pass, filtering out all frequencies below it. In a first order (6dB per octave) filter, this consist of a capacitor in series with a loudspeaker. Just above the crossover frequency, the capacitor begins to add resistance to the circuit. At the crossover frequency enough resistance has been added to equal the resistance of the loudspeaker and reduce the power by 3 dB or 50 %. One octave below the crossover frequency, power has been reduced by 6 dB or 75%. Each octave lower reduces the power by an additional 6 dB. The size of the capacitor will be determined by the impedance of the loudspeaker(s) and the desired crossover point. The smaller the size or value of a capacitor (microfarads, µfd or mfd) is, not physical size, the higher the high pass frequency will be.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

i want to replace the rears with as little modification as possible. and it seems like the resistor/capacitor would be the easiest.

i dont have metal shears but i do have a dremel. that might make it for some quick trimming for a bigger speaker. would the window hit the magnet if i went with bigger than a 4"? and if i use a spacer, would there be clearance for the door panel?

 

[jamess]

I just installed Polk MM651 in my rear doors. It was a pain! First, in the stock location the magnet would hit the window. So I thought I could use a spacer, but that did not work because I then could not get the door panel back on. I had to trim a lot of metal to get the magnet below the window when the window is rolled all the way down.

If I were to do it again, I would go 5.25" coaxial speakers in the rear. Just get a quality speaker and you won't need bass blockers, especially if you keep the bass level down and install a sub.

 

[Brian757]

I know for a fact that my 2002 is 6-1/2" in the front, and 5-1/4" in the rear.
Certain speakers require more modification than others, even in the same size bracket, because of magnet depth and other various component design differences.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

so 5.25 shallow mount decent quality speakers in the rear?

its the wife's car so she wouldnt need so much bass. but when i drive in it, i want the sound quality to be good.

 

[1blink]

so 5.25 shallow mount decent quality speakers in the rear?

its the wife's car so she wouldnt need so much bass. but when i drive in it, i want the sound quality to be good.

The rears act as a filler more than anything. My opinion: the sound quality from the rear speakers does not make much difference unless you are sitting in the back seat. I have been satisfied with my 5.25's back there, but I am running a 5 channel amp and a small sub. If you are not planning on using an amplifier+sub, high efficiency rear speakers may have a bigger impact on SQ.

 

[ixcocoyxi]

maybe ill just get some hq speakers for the front doors and seperate flush-mount tweeters since i dont have the oem ones.

 

[Brian757]

Yeah. I have Memphis MC Series 5-1/4" in the rear and they don't come close to the sound in the front. I believe true potential could lie in maybe giving front and rear their own amplifiers and then sizing up the rear speakers and fabricating a mounting bracket out of wood for them. I would do 6-1/2" next time.

Although sound quality doesn't reside in speaker diameter, it wouldn't hurt.

 

[downpour11]

Yeah. I have Memphis MC Series 5-1/4" in the rear and they don't come close to the sound in the front. I believe true potential could lie in maybe giving front and rear their own amplifiers and then sizing up the rear speakers and fabricating a mounting bracket out of wood for them. I would do 6-1/2" next time.

Although sound quality doesn't reside in speaker diameter, it wouldn't hurt.

I also ran the Memphis 5.25's in the rear of my old 4runner. x2 on what Brian said, get an amp for your door speakers it will make a world of difference.