Stolen spare tire....
- Thread starter krosno3
- Start date
Bluto
New member
jharris2 said:
There are two types, standard and black max. Manufacture's website:
http://motivelocks.tripod.com/
www.movtivelocks.com is printed on the lock.
The Yahoo pic is from a Tacoma install. I think it is the standard.
http://members.tripod.com/~motivelocks/msts-toyota-tacoma-inst.html
My brother ordered a lock for his Tundra from the yahoo store. They called and said there is a 3 week backorder.
krosno3
New member
Bluto said:
Looking good. I'm getting thi lock for sure.........Thanks for instalation pics..
sharp4runr said:No sweat man, I can edit the posts so it doesn't have the link if you want:
There is no need for that..I found 2 of them so I hope I'll be able to get one of them...
That's interesting....Bluto said:
Maybe I'll be able to pick it up and save on shipping ......
TranceKrayz said:
:iagree:
MicaBlue03
Member
Bluto, thanks for the very clear pictures and instructions. Very nice.
I think this is a good approach, but I'm leaning toward the bolt-on-a-chunk-of-lumber approach that DanC suggested earlier in this thread. I see two benefits (and some drawbacks, of course) to that approach. One is that you'll always have a convenient piece of lumber around to place the jack on. The base of the jack isn't very big and if you end up on soft ground (say the shoulder of a road) when you get a flat the piece of lumber could be really handy.
The other benefit of the lumber solution is that you don't need to carry around another key, and take the chance of losing it.
A disadvantage of all these approaches is that you might anger the slimeball thief enough that he decides to give you a scratch or a dent as payback for frustrating him. Nothing we can do about that, though.
I think this is a good approach, but I'm leaning toward the bolt-on-a-chunk-of-lumber approach that DanC suggested earlier in this thread. I see two benefits (and some drawbacks, of course) to that approach. One is that you'll always have a convenient piece of lumber around to place the jack on. The base of the jack isn't very big and if you end up on soft ground (say the shoulder of a road) when you get a flat the piece of lumber could be really handy.
The other benefit of the lumber solution is that you don't need to carry around another key, and take the chance of losing it.
A disadvantage of all these approaches is that you might anger the slimeball thief enough that he decides to give you a scratch or a dent as payback for frustrating him. Nothing we can do about that, though.
Thanks for the vote. I was begining to think no one read my post.
Another plus to the lumber....You dont have to lay on your back under the truck to unlock the spare. That lock is in one heck of an inconvenient place. Try it with a suit on...or picture your wife/gf in a short skirt.
What drawbacks did I miss?
My biggest concern is if the carrige bold spins. Then simply locking two nuts together at the free end and useing a wrench on to hold it solves that. I plan to leave them there just in case..and to keep crud off the bolt. If attack through the spokes is a concern cut up a 2X12 into an octagon shape and plug the whole cavity.
DanC
Bluto
New member
EDGE said:any1 notice the 2005 Tacoma offers a spare tire wheel lock
I think the Tacoma lowers the spare tire through an access in the tailgate. Like the 4Runner. But I don't think they have a locking tailgate. Their spare tire lock is the same concept as a wheel lug lock:
http://members.tripod.com/~motivelocks/warning-page-fd-n-t.html
Bluto
New member
DanC said:
I'm confused on the lumber. What is it covering? The inner part of the rim - the spoke area? Or the entire tire?
krosno3's cable looks like it is cut horizontal. I think it was cut from above the tire, not through the spokes. I think you can reach around the side of the tire, to the top. I'll have to try it. If so, a small pair of bolt cutters would fit.
Unless you have right-angle cable cutters to go through the spokes? Or a hacksaw blade?
I've never tired to steal a tire, so I don't know.
:Bluto said:I'm confused on the lumber. What is it covering? The inner part of the rim - the spoke area? Or the entire tire?
krosno3's cable looks like it is cut horizontal. I think it was cut from above the tire, not through the spokes. I think you can reach around the side of the tire, to the top. I'll have to try it. If so, a small pair of bolt cutters would fit.
Unless you have right-angle cable cutters to go through the spokes? Or a hacksaw blade?
I've never tired to steal a tire, so I don't know.
My idea was to fit the wood block up within the rim area to prevent access through the center hub, spokes and protect the valve stem. Speculation at the time was that the cable was cut via one of those entry ways. My guess was a hacksaw blade or battery powered dremel fitted with a cut off wheel. You'ld need way to much grip to cut that cable with a side cutter or dykes . If as you say; someone can reach around the tire by letting the air out. A 12-18 inch bolt cutter would do the cable with little effort. They can probably pop the E-clip that holds that locking rod to the mounting bracket too. If I used that I'd want to cover it with half of a hard plastic wiffle ball slid up the rod (drill a hole in it) and clamped in place.
As far as stealing the spare goes. The biggest problem is being under it when it falls!!! Imagine the delema of finding a knocked out dirt bag under your 4R...
fwd or rev??? fwd or rev???
DanC
TranceKrayz
New member
DanC said:
As far as stealing the spare goes. The biggest problem is being under it when it falls!!! Imagine the delema of finding a knocked out dirt bag under your 4R...
fwd or rev??? fwd or rev???
DanC
Haha....I'd take the bolt cutter, or whatever tool he has, to his balls.
jeober
New member
If I were to cut down a tire, a dremel with a cut off wheel is the tool of choice. That stainless steel cable would be real tough to cut without a large tool. As also mentioned, that big tire would have to be well supported when it comes loose.
I took DanC suggestion and made a block from 2x6 cedar. It fits into the circular cavity and takes up precisely the available height to up the cable winch when the tire is cranked up. There still remains a small exposed section of the swaged end hex below the block that I addressed with U-nails hammered into the wood. Other ways to do this are left to your imagination.
Also, I noticed rust developing between the stainless cable and the steel end hex. This is the old problematic galvanic cell corrosion of stainless against carbon steel. If you see this, put a small amount of oil or grease to seal off water.
I took DanC suggestion and made a block from 2x6 cedar. It fits into the circular cavity and takes up precisely the available height to up the cable winch when the tire is cranked up. There still remains a small exposed section of the swaged end hex below the block that I addressed with U-nails hammered into the wood. Other ways to do this are left to your imagination.
Also, I noticed rust developing between the stainless cable and the steel end hex. This is the old problematic galvanic cell corrosion of stainless against carbon steel. If you see this, put a small amount of oil or grease to seal off water.
