Sunroof leaks but doesn't operate? Pull the headliner, seal it with silicone!

thezentree

Senior Member
Everyone knows about the leaking 3rd gen sunroof, and the usual suspect is clogged drain lines. The quick fix is to open the sunroof and use some weedeater string or compressed air to clear the drain lines so water doesn't pool and then leak on your head when it rains.

But what if your sunroof is also inoperable?

Well, unless you like being rained on inside your car, you get to drop the headliner! Yay!

ETA - maybe not. See post 4.

In seriousness, it's not hard at all to do, but it is time consuming. Count on 4 hours minimum just to clear the drain lines. I also removed the sunroof assembly and sealed it to the roof with clear silicone. You will really want a second set of hands to remove and reinstall the sunroof - that ***** is heavy and awkward.

/novel

Tools:

Body trim removal kit. BUY THESE. They're like $15 at Advance Auto and they will save you so many pieces of broken trim. Worth their weight in gold.

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Philips head screwdriver
Impact driver w/ philips head bit and 10mm deep socket
Trim tools (didn't use the other ones in the pack)
Silicone
3/32" flat head screwdriver

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Step 1: Remove light fixture in ceiling just inside rear hatch. I took a bunch of pictures like this that show which fastener goes where. Do this every time you remove a screw, because just about all of them are different.

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The wire harness unplugs easily with that little white tab on the left side of the image.

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Step 2: Use the trim tool to pry that top, rear, center trim piece down.

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Step 3: Remove rear interior quarter panel ...trim ...pieces? Whatever, they're huge and difficult to work around.

Start by removing the rear floor sill plate. It's secured by 4 or 5 of these screws, and also has clips molded into the bottom. Use the trim tool again to get the sill plate off.
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Next, remove the screw at the top of the hatch opening. I think I forgot to put these back in...

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And then the mounts for the cargo cover

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Then the rear door sill plates

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Then pry these door frame covers off. The D ring for the rear seat backrest are mounted to the body, so the door frame covers need to slide over the ring.

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On the passenger side, this little piece needs to come out

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Then use your trim tool to pop all the christmas tree clips out. There are a bunch of them, but be patient, and eventually you will end up with this:

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Note that the seatbelts don't need to be removed to do any of this.

By this point I was hot and had a headache, so I didn't get as many pictures as I meant to, but the process is the same.

Step 4: Remove the crown molding. The oh-shit handles above the rear doors need to come off. Use that small flathead screwdriver to pop the screw covers off either side of the handle, then the philips head to remove the handles. They will stick a little to the headliner fabric, but shouldn't rip it when you remove them.

Then use the trim tools to keep popping the molding off. The B-pillar molding will need to be loosened at the top, but don't need to come out all the way.

Take the handle above the passenger seat off, as well as the two handles on the A-pillar. These two are mounted much more solidly, but the screws is easily stripped so be careful.

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Pop the A-pillar trim off above the doors and about halfway down the A-pillar. It doesn't have to come all the way off, but it needs to be loose enough that you can get the headliner out later on.

Here's what I found when i removed the trim above the driver side rear door. Mold. Damn it.

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Step 5: Put on a particle mask.

Step 6: Remove sun visors, sunroof controls/map lights, and rearview mirror.

These had no cover.
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The visor hooks are apparently at great risk of falling, because they are screwed, clipped, and christmas tree'd into the ceiling. The screw is hard to see, but it's on the windshield side.

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Use the small flathead to pop the lens out of the map light, then remove the screw holding the console to the ceiling.

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...20 image limit.
 
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The console is also secured at the front with these tongues

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And then the rear view (it was cracked when I got to it. I blame Toyota. You'd think they'd know something about lean manufacturing but noooooo)

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Now remove the center interior light fixture, same process as the other two, and then the trim around the sunroof. It pulls off pretty easily, but has some kind of soft steel reinforcement that could easily be bent, so be careful with this. When you put it back in, make sure it goes in evenly. The trim perimeter is longer than the sunroof opening, so it's a tight fit.

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Now use the trim tool to pop these pins out. There are 5 of them - one is at the very rear of the headliner. Go slowly, these are apparently easy to break, but I got all 5 out without issue.

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Voila:
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Step 7: Clean your sunroof drains

The drains are these tubes that connect at the front corners and rear ends of the tracks. They're secured with these butterfly clamps, which are removed by hand.

Front drains. These run down the A-pillar, behind the kick panels, and into the rocker panel (WTF Toyota). This is probably up to you, but I removed the front door sill plates, then the kick panels, and used weedeater string and compressed air to clear the drain tubes from the top end.

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Rear drains run above the rear doors and down the C-pillar into the space behind the sides of the rear bumper. Same process for clearing these.

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The problem, however, is that my sunroof was not working. The fact that the mechanism is a big solid clump of rust may be related, hard to say. But the fact is, I couldn't get to the drip tray to make sure it was clear. So out came the sunroof.

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This was a colossal pain in the ass to do by myself, which is why I didn't get any pictures of the process. You can see in the picture of the rear drain that zinc-plated hex head cap screw - there are I think 8 of these and nut on each side that hold the sunroof to the body. There are also some body-color HCSs that hold the sunroof brackets to the body, which do NOT need to come out. If you decide to remove the sunroof, look for the circlip below the nut on the passenger side. That little ****er fought me for a good 20 minutes and I ended up breaking off the tip on the little flathead screwdriver, which belonged to my deceased grandfather, trying to get it off.

Anyway, the sunroof eventually came out, and I'm glad I pulled it because the drip trays were clogged too. I even found a quarter in there.

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At this point, it was time to deal with the headliner itself.

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Gross.

Step 8: Get rid of gross.

There was a ton of mold growing on the top of it, so I bleached the **** out of it and let it dry in the sun for a few hours while I fought with the sunroof.

I rented a Rug Doctor and went to town on the headliner after the sunroof was reinstalled. It's not 100% perfect, but it's 100% better.

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The water stains at the very front wouldn't come out, but the overhead console covers it and it's not visible once it's all put back together.

Step 9: Seal the sunroof.

Unfortunately I don't have but one picture of this, but to seal the sunroof I put it back in, but let it hang loosely by two or three screws, so that it was dropped a little below the surface of the roof. I ran a small bead of silicone around the roof opening, and then finished installing the sunroof.

Then I ran another bead around the perimeter of both sides of the gasket. You'll notice that it was previously "sealed" with duct tape. Don't do that. Use silicone, because the duct tape residue is impossible to get off after it's baked in the sun for a few weeks. My sunroof doesn't work, and I'm not interested in spending a grand to replace the whole assembly, but if yours works or you want to replace your sunroof with a new assembly, don't do this part.

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I don't know where the water was coming in, but I do know that it doesn't leak anymore. Especially after Tropical Storm Douchebag came up through Kentucky and ruined my plans to go camping this weekend..
 
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Step 10: Reassembly.



[haynes]Installation is the reverse of removal [/haynes]


I don't have any pictures, but it really is the reverse. The hardest part is getting the sunroof put back in and reinstalling the headliner. I used the visor hooks to hold the front up and a couple of the christmas tree pins in the center of the rear ceiling to hold the headliner up while I put the rest back together. Lining up those four holes for the christmas tree pins are kinda difficult, so do that first. Oh, and make sure all your wire harnesses are properly routed before you get too far, especially the one for the light in the center of the ceiling.

Then just work your way back towards the rear of the car. Everything should go back together easily, so if you can't gently pop all the clips back in place, something's not lined up.
 
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Not to be an ass but there was a far easier way to clean the drains out. You just pull back the shade and unscrew the glass. It's 2 screws per corner. Some are phillips head the others are star bits. Glass comes out and give you plenty of access to the drains.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great writeup on headliner removal, and useful if you're planning on actually fixing the sunroof, but if you're just looking to seal it, you can simply use clear or black silicone /FIPG on the outside. All you need to do is remove the visor (2 screws) and then you can caulk the whole thing in.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Not to be an ass but there was a far easier way to clean the drains out. You just pull back the shade and unscrew the glass. It's 2 screws per corner. Some are phillips head the others are star bits. Glass comes out and give you plenty of access to the drains.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats how I got my glass out. my problem is also the cables in the copper lines. going to try heating them up and see if I can break free.
 
Not to be an ass but there was a far easier way to clean the drains out. You just pull back the shade and unscrew the glass. It's 2 screws per corner. Some are phillips head the others are star bits. Glass comes out and give you plenty of access to the drains.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Never saw those screws and didn't get much input on other threads I'd bumped asking questions about this (hadn't hit the 10 post minimum yet I guess), so that's the way I did it, for better or for worse. Maybe having made this write-up will clear up questions for others, or maybe someone else's headliner isn't disgusting and they won't need to do that. Either way, your post is the first time I'd seen any mention of being able to drop the glass. :thumb3:

I am glad I did it though, because cleaning the headliner made SUCH a difference in the way the interior looks and smells.
 
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This is a great thread. Very detailed. My drains might be the problem but I think it is that my drip tray literally broke apart loose and was rattling around until it fell into the cab.

Should this be added to the first post lol.
Not to be an ass but there was a far easier way to clean the drains out. You just pull back the shade and unscrew the glass. It's 2 screws per corner. Some are phillips head the others are star bits. Glass comes out and give you plenty of access to the drains.
 
Hey Dudes,

Here's two videos related to this subject. Hope you find them helpful. OP, that was a great write-up btw.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qalXo4etX3Q" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MVJW0XM2x24" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Why not just replace the sunroof rather than seal it?

Do you know how expensive that is from Toyota? I’ll only buy a used sunroof if I manage to find a 4Runner in a junkyard that sat in Jay Leno’s garage for 20 years. Otherwise, they’ve all sat outside forever and they all leak.

I recall a user (txbond?) documenting the replacement of the sunroof drain tubes. It’s pretty generic clear tubing from Home Depot. All the pics in his build thread are dead though.
 
I recently did this but found a replacement sunroof assembly for a great price. Mine has 2 of the cables frozen as the OP but not nearly the amount of rust. I balanced it on my head getting it in and out, yes it's kind of heavy. I also took out the seat belts, rolled out the dirty part, put a clamp on it so it wouldn't retract and washed then 5x in boiling hot water, Tide, and Simple Green before all the PO's oil, grease, & dirt finally came out. Looks like new now !
If anyone is interested in a complete assembly, including glass, tan interior panel, working motor, no cracks in the plastic, etc. let me know. I think it just needs the 2 cables freed up.

Thanks for the great write up, wish I saw it before I did mine.
 
Why not just replace the sunroof rather than seal it?

Like [MENTION=71030]T4R2014[/MENTION] said, they’re stupid expensive and I’d never use it. Honestly I wish mine didn’t even have a sunroof. I keep the visor shut all the time and could use the extra inch of head room.
 
Yeah I know right. Does anyone know. If you can buy a weatherstrip seal replacement that goes around the sunroof window ? OEM?

I’m pretty sure you have to buy the whole assembly - that’s why I used silicone. At this point, I hope that’s the case or I’m going to feel like a dumbass haha
 
[MENTION=158195]thezentree[/MENTION]

Thanks for sharing this write up, nice to be able to picture the job beforehand.

One question though - what was the source of the rust stains on the head lining? Was it just the rusty end of the drive cable casing that we see on the photos? I notice that at least one other poster had this.

The other source I have seen was rusted out bolt holes for the roof rack channels.

I have a 3rd Gen with a wet head lining and rust marks around the LH sun visor mount (the fixed side with 2 screws) and am looking at what may need replacing and I'm thinking the drive cable casing is one of the few metal pieces that may be a culprit.

EO
 
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[MENTION=158195]thezentree[/MENTION]

Thanks for sharing this write up, nice to be able to picture the job beforehand.

One question though - what was the source of the rust stains on the head lining? Was it just the rusty end of the drive cable casing that we see on the photos? I notice that at least one other poster had this.

The other source I have seen was rusted out bolt holes for the roof rack channels.

I have a 3rd Gen with a wet head lining and rust marks around the LH sun visor mount (the fixed side with 2 screws) and am looking at what may need replacing and I'm thinking the drive cable casing is one of the few metal pieces that may be a culprit.

EO

I'm not sure it was rust. I think it was probably just staining from dirty, stagnant water that got trapped in the sunroof and then overflowed. Probably some mold too.

That car lived most of its life in coastal South Carolina, so road salt wasn't really a concern until I got it and brought it up to Kentucky.
 

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