TE roof rack on SR5 questions

[bigslimdog]

For those who have done this swap:

1. Were you able to reuse the TE hardware? Even when I tightened the TE hardware all the way down to where it wouldn't turn anymore, the rack was still loose. I just used the SR5 hardware, it's nice and tight now and I think it looks fine even though the bolts aren't black.

2. How do you remove the end cap of the TE rack to slide the 4 extra tie down points in to the outer rails?

3. I only had 2 of the small black metal brackets which go between the rack and the body. What position should those have been put in? I put them on the two rear mounting points and everything seems fine. Just wondering if that's where they are supposed to be.

 

[StRanger7032]

My installation was a bit of a nightmare. I stripped two of the TE Torx bolts, ended up having to drill one out to remove it, and eventually gave up and used my old SR5 bolts. The dealership couldn't even find the TE bolts when I tried to order some. I followed a thread on how to remove the old rack and ended up doing $400 worth of damage to the roof. My used TE rack already had the tie-downs installed, so I can't help you with that one. I'm pretty sure there are supposed to be four of the metal brackets. That might explain why your rack was loose after tightening it.

 

[BAYOU]

For those who have done this swap:

1. Were you able to reuse the TE hardware? Even when I tightened the TE hardware all the way down to where it wouldn't turn anymore, the rack was still loose. I just used the SR5 hardware, and I think it looks fine even though it's not black.

2. How do you remove the end cap of the TE rack to slide the 4 extra tie down points in to the outer rails?

3. I only had 2 of the small black metal brackets which go between the rack and the body. What position should those have been put in? I put them on the two rear mounting points and everything seems fine. Just wondering if that's where they are supposed to be.

The TE rack has the "rack delete" metal brackets underneath where as the SR5 does not which leaves extra space so it cannot tighten down with the TE hardware.

To remove the end caps, there is a slightly hidden slot in the middle of the very back of the end cap where it meets the rubber under pad that you can get a #2 flat head screwdriver under, then just wiggle it under the cap, once it is under about an inch push up on the handle of the driver, while doing this pull up and back on the cap. It is held on by one metal clip and seats into the rubber seal that is under the entire rack. I have had mine on and off a bunch of times they are pretty rugged so don't worry too much abut hurting anything.

You should have had 4 metal brackets under each mounting point, that would make it snug.

Hope this helps :beer:

 

[bigslimdog]

Thanks for the help. It looks like I was only given 2 of the "delete" brackets. The front half of the rack seems a little more snug without the brackets. Since the SR5 doesn't use them on the stock rack, are they really necessary with the TE rack on a SR5? What is their function anyway?

 

[BAYOU]

Thanks for the help. It looks like I was only given 2 of the "delete" brackets. The front half of the rack seems a little more snug without the brackets. Since the SR5 doesn't use them on the stock rack, are they really necessary with the TE rack on a SR5? What is their function anyway?

If I had to guess the biggest difference would be the bolt length. the biggest worry would be sealing the bolt holes so that you don't have any leakage into the cabin, there should also be rubber bushing seals and silicon type sealant. Good luck with the fitment. :surfer:

 

[bigslimdog]

Took the small metal brackets off and the rack is tighter against the roof. Anyone else doing this swap, I would recommend not using any of the TE hardware and just reuse the SR5 hardware. You can hardly see the silver bolts but even if you see them I think they look fine. Will post a pic in the next few days.

 

[Intruder]

You can hardly see the silver bolts but even if you see them I think they look fine.

You can always hit the heads of the bolts with a bit of flat black paint too. I used some brush on Tremclad with a cheap art brush to do the bolts for my BajaRack.

 

[bigslimdog]

Good call, I will probably do this eventually.

 

[bigslimdog]

 

[||ReT4Ribution||]

Probly some time this weekend, I will be replacing my SR5 rack for a TE rack as well. Im sure it will go just fine after I do a dry install and see first hand how it will work out.

But the idea of not properly re-sealing the connection points and interior water damage has driven me to sketch up a cross section, to plan how I will re-seal the conection points.

Any thoughts, ideas, comments, or advice? Im all ears

-Thanks

 

[Intruder]

But the idea of not properly re-sealing the connection points and interior water damage has driven me to sketch up a cross section, to plan how I will re-seal the conection points.

When I went to an aftermarket rack I put silicone sealant around the posts and wrapped the bolt threads with teflon tape. Haven't noticed any water inside and I've been in rain, snow, and plenty of car washes since.

 

[Jtraskell]

I am thinking of swapping out my SR5 roof rack for a TE. (I know, I just have too much time on my hands). In any case, does anybody know if the SR5 cross bars will fit the TE Rails? If not, it will most likely sway me to vinyl cover or plastic dip the chrome SR5 rails and let it go with that. Thanks in advance for your replies. Be Safe.

 

[Stifler]

other than being blacked out what is the benefit? I know it has the tie downs but it doesnt seem to do anything different than the SR5 rack.

 

[bigslimdog]

SR5 rails won't fit on TE rack. All TE racks come with crossbars though.

There's no benefit of the TE rack other than cosmetically. The tie downs are worthless IMO.

 

[Jtraskell]

Thanks for replies guys. Yea, there is no benefit accept aesthetics. IMHO. After some clarity of mind......2 beers, I think I will simply black out the chrome. Thanks again.