0xfded
New member
Great, that's what I figured (and how I hooked it up), but I wanted to be sure before everything was bolted up again. Much appreciated.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
0xfded
New member
It's alive! And THAT SOUND!
Before:
Six hours later:
All pictures from this point on are sideways. Sorry. I can't stop it.
Honestly, the most irritating part was the power steering belt. And the AC belt. And the SC belt too. Basically, to hell with belts. Also, due to Reasons, I had trouble relocating the dipstick. But as it happens, a dremel is the answer to a lot of problems, so now my dipstick looks like this:
And it FITS, like it SHOULD.
One big unanswered question, though: what's this, and what should it be hooked up to?
It was connected to the fuel pressure regulator before, via the hard line that runs across the lower intake manifold. It runs down to a junction below the fuse-box. But now that regulator is connected directly to the SC, this one is left-over. It's capped right now and everything is working, but I can't leave it at that. I'll go crazy.
Aside from a tense moment at the start (I forgot to hook up the MAF, so the engine would turn over and promptly die), it's running just fine. And that sound it makes when you goose it is going to badly damage my MPG. I swear it sounds like the DeLorean from Back to the Future. I grin like an idiot every time it does it. Strange days ahead.
I'm not running fuel mods yet, just the 170 thermostat (temperature readings are sitting pretty at ~181 so far) and 92 octane gas, but I'm going to play it by ear. MTD's exploration into AEM FI/C modding interests me terribly. I have a set of Denso IK22's ready to go in, but I figured "one big change at a time."
Now to go clear some MAF codes. Screw you, P0100/P0110, you're not the boss of me.
Before:
Six hours later:
All pictures from this point on are sideways. Sorry. I can't stop it.
Honestly, the most irritating part was the power steering belt. And the AC belt. And the SC belt too. Basically, to hell with belts. Also, due to Reasons, I had trouble relocating the dipstick. But as it happens, a dremel is the answer to a lot of problems, so now my dipstick looks like this:
And it FITS, like it SHOULD.
One big unanswered question, though: what's this, and what should it be hooked up to?
It was connected to the fuel pressure regulator before, via the hard line that runs across the lower intake manifold. It runs down to a junction below the fuse-box. But now that regulator is connected directly to the SC, this one is left-over. It's capped right now and everything is working, but I can't leave it at that. I'll go crazy.
Aside from a tense moment at the start (I forgot to hook up the MAF, so the engine would turn over and promptly die), it's running just fine. And that sound it makes when you goose it is going to badly damage my MPG. I swear it sounds like the DeLorean from Back to the Future. I grin like an idiot every time it does it. Strange days ahead.
I'm not running fuel mods yet, just the 170 thermostat (temperature readings are sitting pretty at ~181 so far) and 92 octane gas, but I'm going to play it by ear. MTD's exploration into AEM FI/C modding interests me terribly. I have a set of Denso IK22's ready to go in, but I figured "one big change at a time."
Now to go clear some MAF codes. Screw you, P0100/P0110, you're not the boss of me.
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RussToy
New member
@Oxfded, I have the same question?? Do we cap it off, or do we need to "tee" into a vacuum line and attach it??
Any and all help would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance...
- Russel
shootmymime
New member
No it's vacuum for your 4wd. Try it. It won't engage or disengage I can't remember. I'll get you all pictures in the morning.
RussToy
New member
Thank you Sir! Yeah...I kinda want to keep my 4x4 working!!
0xfded
New member
I thought that too, but I switched in and out of 4WD a few times during my test drive, no issues. It may be that it just happens to be working without the vacuum assist, of course.
It's vexing because that line isn't on the routing diagram under the hood, and the closest thing to it on the supercharger install manual is a T-junction to the "4WD VSV", which clearly points to it being essential for the 4WD. It would be a relief to hear that most SC installs just T that line from the SC to the PWM-VSV (which doesn't appear in the SC install manual) and connect up this one, but I have enough doubt that I'm still digging around.
shootmymime
New member
If ether of you have specific questions mention me here and I'll get an email so I'll check. That's really the fastest way to get my attention here.
I'm always free to answer any question you have. Trust me. I've been there and basically experienced ever thing with this super charger. Since I installed it in feb.
0xfded
New member
The routing diagrams in question. From under the hood, the stock routing diagram:
And the diagram from the SC install manual:
Note the PWM-VSV in the stock diagram, which is in series with the Evap and missing in the SC diagram. I ran a line from the SC to that, instead of direct to the Evap (like the SC diagram shows.) Something told me, perhaps mistakenly, that the T in the SC diagram actually is that PWM-VSV. I think that's why my 4WD is still working.
The extra bonus line isn't on either of those diagrams, which made me wonder if I was looking at some aftermarket leftover from the PO (which is not without precedent, but it sounds like Russ has it too, and THAT would be a hell of a trick.)
And the diagram from the SC install manual:
Note the PWM-VSV in the stock diagram, which is in series with the Evap and missing in the SC diagram. I ran a line from the SC to that, instead of direct to the Evap (like the SC diagram shows.) Something told me, perhaps mistakenly, that the T in the SC diagram actually is that PWM-VSV. I think that's why my 4WD is still working.
The extra bonus line isn't on either of those diagrams, which made me wonder if I was looking at some aftermarket leftover from the PO (which is not without precedent, but it sounds like Russ has it too, and THAT would be a hell of a trick.)
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Last edited:
0xfded
New member
Much appreciated. So you figure this is the 4WD VSV line, and I should tap into the line from the SC to the PWM-VSV?
shootmymime
New member
Yes it is the 4wd line. As you can see it's so much smaller than the large hose that goes on the side of the super charger by the brake booster. I just put a T in where the smaller line goes to the back of the supercharger after the throttle body. Be sure it's not the boost line that connects to the FPR. YOU WANT full time vacuum on that line. The diagram u posted here it shows it with the T but it's much smaller than the line it attaches to
shootmymime
New member
0xfded
New member
Roger that. To be clear, you're saying I should tap here:
And run the line around the back, which I think I can just make out in your picture.
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shootmymime
New member
Yes I'm pretty sure that's where I did mine. I'll check again in the morning.
maverickhawk
Member
Holy crap! That is one purdy engine bay.
I have to wait till Sunday before I can have said issues. People can be irritating. Everyone kept asking, what are you doing on the 4th? Nothing damn it! I'm waiting for the 5th to get in the garage.
Happy 4th everyone!
foxrider56
New member
curious as to what everyones opinion on the urd crankshaft pulley is?Underdog Racing Development the claim is that "for every pound reduced in rotational mass of the crankshaft assembly, you gain 2.7 acceleration horsepower." anyone have any experience with this ?
MTD
New member
Well I know they have no problem lying through their teeth to sell one if their products... And anyway if you wheel your rig you want as much weight on the rotating mass possible. The more weight you have the more momentum the system has and a greater inertial value thus being able to put down more low end torque. Thats why you see guys like Marlin putting on heavier flywheels.
Hey shootmymine, was wondering if you or anyone here on this thread could answer a few questions I had on my install. I'm a long time lurker of 4runner.org and now have finally decided to ask the pros for help!
I basically did my supercharger install over this past week. Took me a bit mainly loosening the PITA belts. But regardless I got it connected and got a check engine because I forgot to connect the MAF on the first turn over. But after all was said and done she is running rough on on idle. I'm thinking it's a vacuum issue. I checked to make sure the throttle body gasket was not upside down or anything, checked the IAC valve to make sure it flows into engine (little arrow on valve points into the engine) and also checked my vacuum hoses to make sure they weren't cracked or anything to see if I had leaks. I'm thinking the I may have messed up the vacuum routing.
But here are some questions:
Where does the fuel pressure regulator hose now connect? Before it connected to the upper intake manifold. Does it connect to the nipple on the back? I thought that was the boost gauge line? The line currently feeding from the fuel pressure regulator is a bit short and so I don't have it connected at the moment.
There is a second hose that routed out of the power steering pump to upper intake manifold. Where does that connect to now?
I used the vacuum adapter "T" to tap into EVAP canister and the 4WD VSV (Bottom nipple). While the Brake booster also is connected to supercharger as well (lower nipple) like the routing diagram showed.
Anyone else experience something like this? Thanks again everyone and appreciate you taking the time.
Happy 4th! :usa2:
0xfded
New member
Yep, the line from the fuel pressure regulator connects to the brass barb on the back of the SC unit. I believe you can T that line for your boost gauge too (I haven't done that yet, thinking about how I want to set my gauges up.) My line was a bit short as well, but easy enough to cut another length of hose for it.
Off the power steering pump, or the intake silencer box (above the PS pump)? The nipple on the intake silencer box should be capped.
Thanks, going to check this out tomorrow! This may be my vacuum issue and rough idle. I was just afraid to rip the line out but going to replace with a longer one.
I know the intake silencer is capped off. The line I'm referring to is circled in red on this photo. It runs from the back of the Power Steering pump and used to connect to the upper intake manifold. Just don't know what happens to it now.
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MTD
New member
This is most definitely your rough idle problem... You are basically starving the motor for fuel when you run it without it getting vacuum. It is also where you tee off for boost. I suggest getting a boost manifold from eBay or amzon so you can tee off as much as you need in the future. For example I have my FIC, boost gauage, and FPR off of it now and I will also have to pull for my meth kit from there in the future.
