The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[ShakenBake]

There's tons of 3rd Gen IAC cleaning write up. I'm not talking about the tiny check valve you're supposed to install in the air assist line. That wouldn't cause your symptom. It just seems like your engine isn't holding an idle, which is what the IAC controls. It's common to have this issue after a battery disconnect on a tired/dirty IAC since the computer has learned to compensate. And with battery disconnected it resets but is unable to baseline since the passage remains closed.

Any way, basically you remove the AIRAID intake tube. Then you remove the MOTOR portion of the IAC with 2 screws. I always used to leave the actual valve installed since this keeps you from having to drain the little coolant hoses that feed the valve. Removing the motor portion on its own allows access to be able to turn the shaft from the motor end and then clean the actual valve portion just inside the throttle body. For a test, after the screws are removed and the electric part is taken off, you can very gently turn that shaft by finger tips. (It only rotates like 90 degrees or less total so don't force it.) but you will feel a sticky part from carbon build up. That will prohibit the valve from opening enough to allow the engine to idle. That sticky part needs to be cleaned. It needs to be smoooooth as butter.

Do a forum search for IAC cleaning for a more detailed write up. It's a free easy idea to cross something off the list. Post pictures if you have questions. These 3.4's are about as simple an engine as they come.

Edit: I just watched Tim's video and it was good but unnecessary to do that much work. Like I said above, remove intake boot, remove 3 pin electrics plug that juts out from directly under throttle inlet. Behind that is the electric motor portion of the IAC valve with 2 screws. You want to be careful and apply a lot of force so you don't strip out the screw heads. Once those screws are out, the white (or black) motor piece pulls straigh off. It's somewhat magnetic so it sort of sticks. Behind that is the tiny shaft I reference. That shaft spins to actuate a small air bypass in the throttle body. You will see the passage just inside the throttle inlet, before the throttle blade. Squirt a little brake cleaner in that hole and manually spin the valve shaft back and forth a ton until it rotates smoothly. Reassemble, fire it up and let it relearn a bit. Then go do some donuts.

Thanks for the help, I should have searched before asking. I watched most of Tim's video last night and your suggestions seems to make more sense for my purposes. I will clean and asses the IAC this evening and report back.

 

[ShakenBake]

I highly recommend replacing the PCV valve if it's starting to spew oil into your intake. It might be stuck open slightly. Use only an OEM PCV valve, I've gone through 2 parts store ones in 4 years. They don't seal well and caused a bad idle condition.

It's interesting about the catch cans and how it varies. Some people have it catch oil and clean up the intake. On mine, it was full of water and only caught condensation which is harmless.

I'll take a closer look at the PCV but I did change it just last year. That said, I didn't notice too much junk coming from the PCV, it was the cam cover vent where I saw some brown gunk when installing the SC.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'll take a closer look at the PCV but I did change it just last year. That said, I didn't notice too much junk coming from the PCV, it was the cam cover vent where I saw some brown gunk when installing the SC.

I don't know all the inner workings of the 5VZ-FE, but my old engine used to do that too. The hose was lined with oil varnish and the intake tube had oil stains the whole way through. I parted out an older engine where it was so bad, the ridges of the intake tube were actually filled with oil and it has spilled and soaked into the air filter!

My low-mileage JDM engine is as clean as a whistle. I know it has to do with blow-by gases and oil vapor, I wonder if there's a correlation between engine health, compression, and oil coming through the vent hose. My old engine was not in good shape before it blew.

 

[ShakenBake]

So I cleaned the IAC via "easy method", which I highly recommend to anyone as a solution before diving deeper and removing coolant lines and removing the entire TB, and got some black chunks coming out the hose fitting at the bottom of the IAC.

I video scoped the IAC valve visible from the throttle body and it looked way cleaner and the IAC valve actuator moved a little smoother but not hugely different.

Then I noticed the IAC hose check valve wasn't working as it should. It didn't block flow into the TB and restricted flow leaving the TB. I cleaned that check valve and it seemed to be working a lot better than before but still seemed a little restrictive compared to just blowing through a 3/8" hose. Regardless, I reconnected it all and tried again and it seemed like it wanted to idle more but would still stall at idle. A couple of times it was about to completely stall but came back to life for a brief moment. It didn't seem to do that before.

Next, I deleted the SC IAC check valve completely and got marginally better results than the cleaned AC IAC check valve but it still does at idle.

I also did a resistance test on the IAC valve actuator and it was just shy of 22 ohms which is in range per the FSM.

I'm gonna try a more thorough IAC cleaning.

Any other ideas? Anyone live near western PA or know a good Toyota mechanic that does?

Edit: Here are some data from my Bluetooth OBD reader that I took last night when trying to run the engine after cleaning the IAC and messing with the SC check valve on the IAC hose. Is anyhing in this limited data set helpful if figuring out why my car won't idle?

 

[ShakenBake]

Ok, so I disconnected the MAF wiring harness and it idled. Rough, but it idled.

What are the implications of taking the MAF sensor out of the equation?

Here is the video of it idling like crap: YouTube

 

[ShakenBake]

Here is the OBD log of it idling with the MAF wiring harness disconnected and the a link to the screenshot of the codes it threw after running a little longer. It gave me a P0100 MAF circuit and a P0110 intake air temp malfunction, which isn't surprising or particularly useful.

Dropbox - Screenshot_20200605-203120.png - Simplify your life

 

[MarkamisPrime]

Ok, so I disconnected the MAF wiring harness and it idled. Rough, but it idled.

What are the implications of taking the MAF sensor out of the equation?

Here is the video of it idling like crap: YouTube

Have you tried spraying brake clean over the area that may have a vacuum leak?
Or try unplugging your TPS ?
It sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak.

 

[ShakenBake]

Have you tried spraying brake clean over the area that may have a vacuum leak?
Or try unplugging your TPS ?
It sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak.

I haven't tried the brake cleaner/carb cleaner test yet. Until yesterday I couldn't get it to run long enough to try.

I'm gonna check for a vacuum leak today.

What would unplugging the TPS tell me?

 

[MarkamisPrime]

I haven't tried the brake cleaner/carb cleaner test yet. Until yesterday I couldn't get it to run long enough to try.

I'm gonna check for a vacuum leak today.

What would unplugging the TPS tell me?

My truck was idling like crap too and then would die
After doing all the basics
Cleaning maf and iac checked for vacuum leaks
I even replaced the iac
And nothing
Turns out my tps was bad telling the ecm I was flooring it at idle
So it was flooding itself until it would die.
Unplugging the tps will essentially bypass it
After I unplugged the tps the truck idled fine
I didn’t bother to ohm the old sensor out or anything
Just to triple check I plugged the sensor back in while the truck was running and it immediately started stumbling again.

 

[ShakenBake]

My truck was idling like crap too and then would die
After doing all the basics
Cleaning maf and iac checked for vacuum leaks
I even replaced the iac
And nothing
Turns out my tps was bad telling the ecm I was flooring it at idle
So it was flooding itself until it would die.
Unplugging the tps will essentially bypass it
After I unplugged the tps the truck idled fine
I didn’t bother to ohm the old sensor out or anything
Just to triple check I plugged the sensor back in while the truck was running and it immediately started stumbling again.

Well this is embarrassing...really embarrassing, but problem solved. Yesterday, my buddy and I removed the SC to make sure it was properly seated and that no hoses or wires were pinched beneath it. After staring at the intake-less engine for a half hour and running out of things to check, my buddy noticed the giant vacuum leak culprit. The used SC I purchased was missing the two bolts and plate that covered the 7th injector port located just downstream of the throttle body. We plugged it and it fired right up. I can't believe I missed that. I checked the hoses and gaskets 15 times and never saw it. Anyone know what parts to get to properly seal it off?

 

[4Reak Show]

Well this is embarrassing...really embarrassing...after staring at the intake-less engine for a half hour and running out of things to check, my buddy noticed the giant vacuum leak culprit.

ummmm NAILED it! (Way back a few posts ago)

...It sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak...

...It runs like there's a massive vacuum leak....

Glad it's solved. Just make one out of a piece of metal and cereal box (or gasket material). It's not crucial to be exact. Or contact Magnuson. They may have it.

 

[ShakenBake]

ummmm NAILED it! (Way back a few posts ago)







Glad it's solved. Just make one out of a piece of metal and cereal box (or gasket material). It's not crucial to be exact. Or contact Magnuson. They may have it.

Yea, you were right. Thanks for the help! Vacuum leak definitely made sense, I was too ridgid in my thinking that it had to be at a vacuum hose/port or gasket and I didn't even know the 7th injector port was there.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yea, you were right. Thanks for the help! Vacuum leak definitely made sense, I was too ridgid in my thinking that it had to be at a vacuum hose/port or gasket and I didn't even know the 7th injector port was there.

If looking for the part name, it's the EGR port blocking plate. 7th injector does use that same spot though. Any rigid piece of plastic or metal will work with a DIY gasket (you can buy a black square of gasket material and cut to size).

 

[ShakenBake]

Thanks everyone for the info on the EGR port and how to seal it off.

Unfortunately, I don't think I am outta the woods quite yet. We fixed the vacuum leak Saturday and drove it around a little. Idle was a little rough but not terrible and it threw the codes shown in the attached pics (the bottom pic is pending codes). At higher RPMs it seemed fine. So Sunday I cleaned the 2-step colder plugs and re-installed and cleared the codes; they were initially installed with the SC but later removed to troubleshoot. I figured this might solve the misfire codes because the plugs that I removed were pretty dirty on account of the very rich fuel mixture that it was trying to burn as we tried to figure out why the engine would not idle after SC install. Unfortunately, that didn't keep the code from popping back up Sunday when I drove it around more. I cleared the code again and drove around on the highway for 20+ minutes and no code. As soon as I got off the highway and sat at a red light, the codes returned. It's still less smooth at idle, not exactly rough, and idle RPM is ~500-700 which is lower than it ever was before.

Did I fry my O2 sensors or cat when I ran it rich with the vacuum leak? New wires and one new coil in March. When I search for others having similar issues, I only saw one person on Yotatech who was getting misfires on every cylinder, but that thread petered out. Everyone else only has a misfire on one or two cylinders. Would injector cleaner or a Seafoam treatment help? Or do I just need to run it more to burn some crud outta the exhaust?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Wowzers, that's a lot of codes Batman!

Double check all the sensors you unplugged are securely connected. Also ensure the coils are connected securely along with the spark plug wires. I agree on giving it a nice long drive, that's way too many codes popping up to try and diagnose it. You shouldn't be throwing a P0301-P0306 AND a P0300.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

Sorry to derail the troubleshooting, but I wanted to share my current saga and a lesson on why not to press in bearings crooked.

I picked up a used 1st gen supercharger from a member of this forum a year ago for $350. He said the rotors had begun contacting each other. Him and his buddy were troubleshooting it and had even been sanding down the rotors (WTF???) but just couldn’t figure it out.

So I bought it, bought some new rotors from Jon Bond and let it sit for a year, focusing on other things for my build. Finally decided to dive into it this weekend, take the nose off, press out the rotors, then remove gears, then I’m pressing out the bearings.

One of them is taking a lot of force, finally it pops. The other one presses out easily.

As I’m inspecting the cups I noticed jagged edges on what should be a smooth surface, and then I see massive cracks all where that stubborn bearing was pressed in.

They must have jammed the bearing in so badly sideways that it cracked the housing and caused the rotors to be unstable, contacting each other and gouging the interior wall of the supercharger.

Pretty sad worksmanship by the seller. On the one hand I’m disappointed that this wasn’t disclosed, but judging by the fact that there is sharpie all over the rotors from where they were marking and sanding, I’m guessing they never thought to check the bearings. I’m hopeful this was the only issue with the supercharger and that the gouging won’t cause much of a drop in boost.

Last thing - I called magnusson to try to source that replacement part. They had no interest in helping, referred me to a company called Supercharger Rebuilds. Those guys said they “aren’t allowed” to sell me that individual part and I would need to send it in for a stage 2 rebuild and they would replace the majority of my supercharger with gen 2 parts. The cost? $2k! Screw those guys.

Then I hit Jon Bond’s site, feeling pretty defeated, and lo and behold they sell that part for $200 and have 999 in stock! You the man Jon Bond!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ShakenBake]

Wowzers, that's a lot of codes Batman!

Double check all the sensors you unplugged are securely connected. Also ensure the coils are connected securely along with the spark plug wires. I agree on giving it a nice long drive, that's way too many codes popping up to try and diagnose it. You shouldn't be throwing a P0301-P0306 AND a P0300.

Ok, I think I have the misfire royal flush fixed. First, I replaced both O2 sensors and that helped. It ran smoother and seemed to have more power but it still didn't sound right at idle and, eventually, the misfire royal flush would return.

Then, most recently, I removed, cleaned, and re-gapped the IK22 spark plugs (from 0.032 to 0.035), discovered I had installed the Teflon throttle body gasket backwards, re-installed the EGR block plate I purchased from LC Engineering using the included studs rather than bolts and used fresh Permatex gasket material, also re-gasketed the IAC actuator with Permatex, and re-torqued all of the throttle body nuts/bolts and bolts securing the SC to the intake manifold.

After 3 hours and ~130 miles of driving, zero pending or confirmed codes.

All that's left is to finish installing the catch cans and installing 6 new IK22 spark plugs because I definitely did not properly gap them. Like a moron I shoehorned feeler gauge between the ground strap and the iridium tip, damaging the tip.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Ok, I think I have the misfire royal flush fixed. First, I replaced both O2 sensors and that helped. It ran smoother and seemed to have more power but it still didn't sound right at idle and, eventually, the misfire royal flush would return.

Then, most recently, I removed, cleaned, and re-gapped the IK22 spark plugs (from 0.032 to 0.035), discovered I had installed the Teflon throttle body gasket backwards, re-installed the EGR block plate I purchased from LC Engineering using the included studs rather than bolts and used fresh Permatex gasket material, also re-gasketed the IAC actuator with Permatex, and re-torqued all of the throttle body nuts/bolts and bolts securing the SC to the intake manifold.

After 3 hours and ~130 miles of driving, zero pending or confirmed codes.

All that's left is to finish installing the catch cans and installing 6 new IK22 spark plugs because I definitely did not properly gap them. Like a moron I shoehorned feeler gauge between the ground strap and the iridium tip, damaging the tip.

Toyota didn't goof much up on these 4Runners but I wish they would have make the throttle body gasket differently. I've also put it in wrong before because from the top view, there's that excess tab that makes it look like it's on upside down. Glad you found the offender!

 

[Ron1776]

What should I do next?

I currently have a 2002 SR5 with the 1st gen S/C, 2.2 pulley, snow performance water/meth setup and I'm at sea level (Florida). I just sent in my S/C to be ported (the high speed lab) and it's going to be 12 weeks before they can get to porting and mail it back. What should I do to help out with performance when I get it back? Already planning on getting the throttle body bored out as the gentleman's shop (maxbore) is essentially in my backyard. A piggyback system is on my radar currently along with bigger injectors.

One of the issues I have been experiencing lately before I pulled my S/C off was it didn't feel like it was giving full boost at WOT. Then it would "catch up" in a manner of speaking and start pulling. Could that be the fuel pump not sending enough fuel? It kind of felt like the pulley was spinning faster than the belt could keep up.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I currently have a 2002 SR5 with the 1st gen S/C, 2.2 pulley, snow performance water/meth setup and I'm at sea level (Florida). I just sent in my S/C to be ported (the high speed lab) and it's going to be 12 weeks before they can get to porting and mail it back. What should I do to help out with performance when I get it back? Already planning on getting the throttle body bored out as the gentleman's shop (maxbore) is essentially in my backyard. A piggyback system is on my radar currently along with bigger injectors.

One of the issues I have been experiencing lately before I pulled my S/C off was it didn't feel like it was giving full boost at WOT. Then it would "catch up" in a manner of speaking and start pulling. Could that be the fuel pump not sending enough fuel? It kind of felt like the pulley was spinning faster than the belt could keep up.

Your setup sounds very similar to where mine was about 3 years ago. The problem wasn't the engine but the lack of a tune. I also went water/meth injection first to be dissappointed with the lack of power it gave. Then I got piggyback and tuned closed loop and there was the power! That surge you feel is the engine switching from closed loop to open loop since in close loop it's running as close to 14.7 AFR's as possible. I gained over 25HP from a tune (the equivalent from going from the stock pulley to a 2.1" pulley).

If you mind isn't completely made up, I'd save the money from the overbored throttle body and put that towards a piggyback and bigger injectors. Even if you just toss in the injectors as-is it's an improvement.