strongbreath
New member
The carfax should tell you a lot about where it has been.
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The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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stombox1791
New member
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I did run a Carfax report last night, and it spent 14 years in Pennsylvania. Down here we don't see much rust (more paint peel on roof and hood). So it was a bit shocking to see that level of rust.
I think I'll skip this one and keep looking. Happy New Year all.
I think I'll skip this one and keep looking. Happy New Year all.
strongbreath
New member
So it turns out the nice holder for the lug wrench and jack tools is there in my truck, but empty. womp womp.
In looking at amazon there are some cheap options but the reviews seem to confirm they are cheap. Or I can pay a ton on ebay (now I think I know where the previous set went too...)
Anyone find a reasonable middle ground for replacements? I have the bottle jack but not the other stuff.
Oh and it seems like there should maybe be some sort of lid on the storage bin? Mine just has the carpet laying on top. I may or may not have slight OCD about crap like this.
In looking at amazon there are some cheap options but the reviews seem to confirm they are cheap. Or I can pay a ton on ebay (now I think I know where the previous set went too...)
Anyone find a reasonable middle ground for replacements? I have the bottle jack but not the other stuff.
Oh and it seems like there should maybe be some sort of lid on the storage bin? Mine just has the carpet laying on top. I may or may not have slight OCD about crap like this.
You might try sending Death Cougar a private message or posting in his for sale thread Parting TWO 2001-2002 4Runners Marysville, WA. He's always parting out 4Runners and could probably sell you what you need.
Devbot
New member
Well truth be told they gave a pretty good attempt at trying to keep it clean during those 14 years. But that's still very sketchy. Keep lookin, you'll find something!
RandyBobandy
New member
14 years in Pennsylvania is enough time to take a factory new frame and turn it into something dangerous to drive, whoever owned that made an attempt to take care of it, I’d definitely go look at it if the price is right and poke around with a screwdriver. Around here that frame would be considered exceptionally clean
spartacus
Senior Member
A 2ft 3/8 extension with a long racheté will work'for the spare. 21mm deep'socket and the same racheté would be good for the lugs.
ArmArak
New member
Reuse axle seals?
Hi guys,
I am planning on swapping my third member for a locking one (yes I know I have to modify the housing). I have to pull out the axles a little to be able to remove the third member. Will I have to replace the axle seals or can I just put the axles back in regularly after swapping out the diff?
Thanks!
Hi guys,
I am planning on swapping my third member for a locking one (yes I know I have to modify the housing). I have to pull out the axles a little to be able to remove the third member. Will I have to replace the axle seals or can I just put the axles back in regularly after swapping out the diff?
Thanks!
If they weren’t leaking before then they should seal fine as long as you don’t leave the wheel side of the axle unsupported. It could damage the seal if you let the axle shaft rest on the seal itself.
MTRunner00
New member
Trim Clip Question
ANSWERED!
PART NUMBER IS 52523-35030 $6.47 AT MY LOCAL DEALER.
IT SLIPS OVER FENDER BRACKET AND HAS DOUBLE SIDED TAPE.
Hey Guys, Got my runner Wrecked in the front end and in the process of putting it together. I was curious if someone could tell me how the Headlight Molding trim is secured Left and Right toward the grill in the middle and left and right near the fender? Yes I have looked at parts Fiche, But it doesn't clearly show how the trim is fastened to the grill, or on the outside left or right sides.
My fenders are a bit mangled where they bolt together near the headlight housings. I do see there is a clip (Attached) that secures the trim below the headlight. But does the Clip pass through the Molding, then snap into the grill? Is there a bolt for the far left and right sides?
2000 4runner Fat lip.
Thanks in Advance.
ANSWERED!
PART NUMBER IS 52523-35030 $6.47 AT MY LOCAL DEALER.
IT SLIPS OVER FENDER BRACKET AND HAS DOUBLE SIDED TAPE.
Hey Guys, Got my runner Wrecked in the front end and in the process of putting it together. I was curious if someone could tell me how the Headlight Molding trim is secured Left and Right toward the grill in the middle and left and right near the fender? Yes I have looked at parts Fiche, But it doesn't clearly show how the trim is fastened to the grill, or on the outside left or right sides.
My fenders are a bit mangled where they bolt together near the headlight housings. I do see there is a clip (Attached) that secures the trim below the headlight. But does the Clip pass through the Molding, then snap into the grill? Is there a bolt for the far left and right sides?
2000 4runner Fat lip.
Thanks in Advance.
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spartacus
Senior Member
Remove the front grill and you will see a bolt holding that piece. remove it then swing it out gently about 90* don't force it, then lift it and it should release.
Flywheel step?
Im looking for a clutch replacement for my 98 3rd gen. Aisin is not available because of supply chain issues so Im leaning towards LUK.
1st Question: Does the stock flywheel have a 0.020 step? 2nd question: does anyone have a LUK clutch kit part number?
Ive searched high and low and can't seem to find an answer.... Thanks very much in advance !
Im looking for a clutch replacement for my 98 3rd gen. Aisin is not available because of supply chain issues so Im leaning towards LUK.
1st Question: Does the stock flywheel have a 0.020 step? 2nd question: does anyone have a LUK clutch kit part number?
Ive searched high and low and can't seem to find an answer.... Thanks very much in advance !
spartacus
Senior Member
I can't get a photo right now.
The headlight bottom trim is attached on the front grill side with a bolt and a clip towards the corner light.
spartacus
Senior Member
your clip is broken. There is a good photo of it in the following thread.
Headlight filler panel mounting clip
spartacus
Senior Member
Here are a couple of pics.
The photos in that thread show the placement of the clip.
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NotALakerFan
New member
Apple Carplay options?
Are there any unit options for apple carplay that sit higher than where the stock unit is? Seems a bit pointless if the screen isn't more of eye level than down below
Are there any unit options for apple carplay that sit higher than where the stock unit is? Seems a bit pointless if the screen isn't more of eye level than down below
I recently installed a dobinson's lift on my 2000 sr5 5 speed. Inner boots on both CV axels started leaking (boots aren't ripped, I see grease spraying out but nothing is torn). I've been limping along like this. However I've noticed some problems. When going slow and taking tight turns (parking lot) I hear/feel a clicking noise in the steering wheel. Also, after shifting into 2nd or 3rd then going heavier on the throttle I get some clunking sounds. This leads me to believe the cv axels need some love after the lift - which seems par for the course. I've searched online and can't see to get a straight answer on the best way to proceed from here.
Question: Should I replace the cv axels entirely (ouch $$$)? Can I buy a "rebuild kit" and service my OEM ones with 180k miles on them? Can I simply reboot and repack grease or does the clicking and clunking indicate they are past that? Its not obvious to me when a replacement, rebuild, or reboot makes the most sense. I'll be doing the wrenching myself and I'm not afraid of the labor.
I've read online cheaper aftermarket CV aren't very good. I can't swing $2k for rcv axels. Honesty, the cost of OEM one's are scaring me at +$600 for a set, but I'll stomach it if that's what's absolutely required. Any and all advice is welcome at this point. Thank you.
Question: Should I replace the cv axels entirely (ouch $$$)? Can I buy a "rebuild kit" and service my OEM ones with 180k miles on them? Can I simply reboot and repack grease or does the clicking and clunking indicate they are past that? Its not obvious to me when a replacement, rebuild, or reboot makes the most sense. I'll be doing the wrenching myself and I'm not afraid of the labor.
I've read online cheaper aftermarket CV aren't very good. I can't swing $2k for rcv axels. Honesty, the cost of OEM one's are scaring me at +$600 for a set, but I'll stomach it if that's what's absolutely required. Any and all advice is welcome at this point. Thank you.
Axle clicking usually indicates that some damage has taken place in the axle joints. Probably better to replace. Lots of people have had good luck with aftermarket shafts that carry a lifetime warranty. Some people are running a new extended travel axle shaft with good reviews so far. Extended/High articulation CV Axle
The clunking when accelerating is most likely your rear drive shaft in need of a good cleaning and relube. Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide and https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2406402-post42.html
I have read that delayed shifting when the engine is cold is fairly normal on 3rd gens and I was wanting to know if that includes what I experienced:
auto trans 02 4runner 4wd with 156k
Usually when I start driving, I make my way through town first and cruise at low speeds. Today I popped on a highway road that goes from 35mph to 55mph pretty quickly. While in 2nd gear at about 30mph, I experienced pronounced delayed shifting and my rpms made it into the 2k range with very little acceleration (like slow creeping towards 35mph). Clearly not shifting easily out of 2nd. I didn't want to rev it past 2k rpms so I just pulled onto a side road and did a u-turn. After that, all shifting was totally normal and barely noticeable and rpms were normal.
I went to a few stores and shifting was fine for the rest of the outing. Prior to this, I just get more noticeable shifts from 1st to 2nd (vs almost undetectable shifts) on occasion, but nothing crazy.
When I first got it (less than 2k miles ago), the fluid was old and a little burnt. I was planning on replacing the radiator this week but it has also been flushed already. Is my transmission dying or does stuff like that happen? Sorry for length.
auto trans 02 4runner 4wd with 156k
Usually when I start driving, I make my way through town first and cruise at low speeds. Today I popped on a highway road that goes from 35mph to 55mph pretty quickly. While in 2nd gear at about 30mph, I experienced pronounced delayed shifting and my rpms made it into the 2k range with very little acceleration (like slow creeping towards 35mph). Clearly not shifting easily out of 2nd. I didn't want to rev it past 2k rpms so I just pulled onto a side road and did a u-turn. After that, all shifting was totally normal and barely noticeable and rpms were normal.
I went to a few stores and shifting was fine for the rest of the outing. Prior to this, I just get more noticeable shifts from 1st to 2nd (vs almost undetectable shifts) on occasion, but nothing crazy.
When I first got it (less than 2k miles ago), the fluid was old and a little burnt. I was planning on replacing the radiator this week but it has also been flushed already. Is my transmission dying or does stuff like that happen? Sorry for length.
has our old friend tim the toolman posted a picture of what he means when he talks about using a screwdriver for the rear brake drum return spring? i just had a rear brake drum return spring make me look like a fool for the better part of 2 hours. inshallah i curse the folks at toyota and may they never have a cold beer again in their lives :hunter:
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