The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Brian.]

Going to be installing the Fumoto F-133 at my next oil change. I want to know from actual users with 3rd gens if they kept the gasket that came with it or replaced it with an OEM one?

Research shows that many stick with the supplied gasket, but I have a bunch of OEM ones stocked up. Thoughts?

Doesn't matter which you use, just that you use one. Pick whichever lets you forget about it/be content.

Gotta say that I really like having a fumoto. If only the oil filter wasn't an absolute nightmare that drips everywhere... seems to be a theme as my ford is the same way. Had a Mazda that was straight up and down, immediately next to the oil drain, which is the best setup if still slightly messy. And a VW with a top-side oil filter that was the least messy of them all (simple to lift straight up and slide a catch tray or bag under ~ plus I did top-side oil extraction so never a need to get under the car).

 

[JOW01]

Misfire on cylinder 4

Hey everyone,

I recently got a misfire on cylinder 4 that came up. Replaced the fuel injector and the spark plug.. put it back together and it coded the same thing.. any suggestions on what to try next?
Did a compression test on that cylinder and it was good. Not sure what the next move is.

 

[Bad Luck]

Hey everyone,

I recently got a misfire on cylinder 4 that came up. Replaced the fuel injector and the spark plug.. put it back together and it coded the same thing.. any suggestions on what to try next?
Did a compression test on that cylinder and it was good. Not sure what the next move is.

What year and engine is your 4Runner?

 

[JOW01]

What year and engine is your 4Runner?

Year- 2000
Engine 3.4

 

[Bad Luck]

Year- 2000
Engine 3.4

Swap coil packs and replace spark plug wires. See if the misfire follows the coil pack or the spark plug wires cures the misfire.

 

[JOW01]

Swap coil packs and replace spark plug wires. See if the misfire follows the coil pack or the spark plug wires cures the misfire.

Thank you! I'll give this a try and see if it resolves the issue.

 

[octanejunkie]

Looking to validate torque settings for steering column/rag joint connections.

Does anyone have quick access to an FSM?

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[fatherohenry]

Looking to validate torque settings for steering column/rag joint connections.

Does anyone have quick access to an FSM?

This might be what you're looking for. It's from a '98 FSM.

 

[octanejunkie]

This might be what you're looking for. It's from a '98 FSM.

Yes, that validates what I was able to search and find, 26 pounds feet, also here by [MENTION=76419]Doc2012[/MENTION]

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2051447-post2.html

But what about the 2 bolts and nuts connecting both halves of the rag joint itself?

Highlighted in this pic

Thanks [MENTION=217643]fatherohenry[/MENTION] !

 

[Doc2012]

Maybe this?

I mean, that would be the ‘control valve shaft’, the the other is ‘intermediate shaft #2’. [emoji2369]

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[Doc2012]

Yes, that validates what I was able to search and find, 26 pounds feet, also here by [MENTION=76419]Doc2012[/MENTION]

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2051447-post2.html

But what about the 2 bolts and nuts connecting both halves of the rag joint itself?

Highlighted in this pic

Thanks [MENTION=217643]fatherohenry[/MENTION] !

See above post.

I gotchu boo boo.

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[octanejunkie]

See above post.

I gotchu boo boo.

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I appreciate the effort but I don't believe they publish a torque spec because they don't expect disassembly of the part, just replacement

26# Ft is good for the shaft bolts but potentially too tight for the rag joint. I used lock nuts and 60mm M8 bolts 10.9 grade and tightened to steering feel

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[fatherohenry]

Apologies for another suspension post. I've been working on my pavement princess and at this point the rear end just feels "harsh" and not "suspensiony" enough. I know. Sorry.

TLDR: If money wasn't an issue I'd go with 906s and 5100s based on what I've read here. If I were to choose between doing coils and shocks first, is there any reason to choose one over the other? (aside from the obvious "coils are easier to swap")

It feels great (smooth and tight) on the highway but I can feel every bump on surface streets. I don't know if it's the ACDelco coils or the KYBs or both. The new Toyos made a huge difference but I'm sure it can absorb the bumps better.

In addition to smoothing out the bumps, I'd like it to sit level or with a slight rear to front rake. I was about to order Daystar 1 1/2" spacers to bring the rear end up but I've read they might accentuate the problem by precompressing the coil. I was then poised to order some OME 906s but started thinking about replacing the KYBs with 5100s instead. Of course then I started thinking about all the poly in the rear control arms/sway bar/panhard. Now I'm here.

Rear measurements dropped at least 1/4" when loaded with 7 12 packs of Pepsi. That seems like a lot to me for 70 lbs spread evenly in the back. On a recent road trip the rear end was sagging a great deal with maybe 200lbs of crap in the back.

Center Hub to Wheel Well Lip
LF 22
RF 22 1/2

LR 21
RR 21 1/2

The coils added some height but I'm not sure how much since I wasn't expecting it and didn't take any measurements beforehand. Is center hub to fender supposed to be about 20" stock?

Possibly not useless info:

New Related Parts
ACDelco coils front and rear
KYB Gas-a-Just front and rear
Upper/lower ball joints (OEM)
Inner/outer TREs (MOOG/OEM)
Toyo OC AT/IIIs 265/75/16

New poly bushings:
Steering rack
Sway bars
End links
Rear control arms, upper/lower
Panhard bar

New OEM bushings:
Front control arms, upper/lower

That's a lot of sag for only about 180 lbs in the back, right?

 

[octanejunkie]

Apologies for another suspension post. I've been working on my pavement princess and at this point the rear end just feels "harsh" and not "suspensiony" enough. I know. Sorry.



TLDR: If money wasn't an issue I'd go with 906s and 5100s based on what I've read here. If I were to choose between doing coils and shocks first, is there any reason to choose one over the other? (aside from the obvious "coils are easier to swap")



It feels great (smooth and tight) on the highway but I can feel every bump on surface streets. I don't know if it's the ACDelco coils or the KYBs or both. The new Toyos made a huge difference but I'm sure it can absorb the bumps better.



In addition to smoothing out the bumps, I'd like it to sit level or with a slight rear to front rake. I was about to order Daystar 1 1/2" spacers to bring the rear end up but I've read they might accentuate the problem by precompressing the coil. I was then poised to order some OME 906s but started thinking about replacing the KYBs with 5100s instead. Of course then I started thinking about all the poly in the rear control arms/sway bar/panhard. Now I'm here.



Rear measurements dropped at least 1/4" when loaded with 7 12 packs of Pepsi. That seems like a lot to me for 70 lbs spread evenly in the back. On a recent road trip the rear end was sagging a great deal with maybe 200lbs of crap in the back.



Center Hub to Wheel Well Lip

LF 22

RF 22 1/2



LR 21

RR 21 1/2



The coils added some height but I'm not sure how much since I wasn't expecting it and didn't take any measurements beforehand. Is center hub to fender supposed to be about 20" stock?



Possibly not useless info:



New Related Parts

ACDelco coils front and rear

KYB Gas-a-Just front and rear

Upper/lower ball joints (OEM)

Inner/outer TREs (MOOG/OEM)

Toyo OC AT/IIIs 265/75/16



New poly bushings:

Steering rack

Sway bars

End links

Rear control arms, upper/lower

Panhard bar



New OEM bushings:

Front control arms, upper/lower

That's a lot of sag for only about 180 lbs in the back, right?

Springs and tire pressure are going to be the first things you feel. I have no experience with the AC Delco coils.for our trucks.


What.tire pressure are you running?

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[fatherohenry]

Springs and tire pressure are going to be the first things you feel. I have no experience with the AC Delco coils.for our trucks.


What.tire pressure are you running?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Tire pressure is 33.

When I bought the ACDelcos last year I couldn't imagine spending over $200 on rear springs alone. I figured it's a spring, how much difference could there be? I just looked up the order and saw that both front and rear coils cost me under a hundred bucks. WTF was I thinking???. Live and learn.

I'm thinking of ordering 880s & 906s from Wheeler's. Seems like the price is the same everywhere.

 

[octanejunkie]

Tire pressure is 33.



When I bought the ACDelcos last year I couldn't imagine spending over $200 on rear springs alone. I figured it's a spring, how much difference could there be? I just looked up the order and saw that both front and rear coils cost me under a hundred bucks. WTF was I thinking???. Live and learn.



I'm thinking of ordering 880s & 906s from Wheeler's. Seems like the price is the same everywhere.

People sell theirs when they upgrade all the time I'd you're looking to save coin and get pre-sagged couls

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[fatherohenry]

People sell theirs when they upgrade all the time...

That'll probably be me in six months thanks to my problem with delayed gratification. Waiting around for someone to sell their coils? Ain't nobody got time for that!

Thanks [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION]

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I was about to order Daystar 1 1/2" spacers to bring the rear end up but I've read they might accentuate the problem by precompressing the coil.

Spacers won't precompress the rear coil, they will just lift the truck by the exact height of the spacer.

I was then poised to order some OME 906s but started thinking about replacing the KYBs with 5100s instead.

906's are by far my favorite spring for a 2" lift. They are progressive, and the ride is as smooth as OEM (I did tons of back and forth testing between the two, and some others).

However, unless you have some insane spring rate springs (like 250 lbs/in or so for the rears), the shocks are the more likely culprit for a stiff ride.

As for high cost of springs, here is the hot ticket for getting cheap 906 springs (shhhh) - go here Amazon.com: ARB 2906 Old Man Emu Coil Spring : Automotive, and select the "Save with Used" option from Trends Auto - you'll get brand new coils in a "repacked" box:

 

[fatherohenry]

906's are by far my favorite spring for a 2" lift. They are progressive, and the ride is as smooth as OEM (I did tons of back and forth testing between the two, and some others).

However, unless you have some insane spring rate springs (like 250 lbs/in or so for the rears), the shocks are the more likely culprit for a stiff ride.

As for high cost of springs, here is the hot ticket for getting cheap 906 springs (shhhh) - go here Amazon.com: ARB 2906 Old Man Emu Coil Spring : Automotive, and select the "Save with Used" option from Trends Auto - you'll get brand new coils in a "repacked" box:

Thanks, Leon! I didn't see the used option yesterday.

Guy I spoke with at Wheeler's told me 881s would be a better choice than 880s with 906s in the back. Do you agree?

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Thanks, Leon! I didn't see the used option yesterday.

Guy I spoke with at Wheeler's told me 881s would be a better choice than 880s with 906s in the back. Do you agree?

You're welcome! Unfortunately I can't comment on the OME front springs, as I am running Dobinson's up front. Their rear springs were too tall and stiff for my liking, so I switched to 906's.