The Great Grease Discussion - Driveshafts

[cryption1]

The Great Grease Discussion - 3oz cartridges

I've been reading through all the grease threads I can find on the boards, and I have decided to do the 2 grease gun method, with a Moly grease and Lithium grease respectively. I've read all the grease recommendations - but everything is in the large 14oz tube. I'm looking to use a Mini grease gun with 3oz grease tubes. It seems the selection of greases is not as great, but I found two that I think may work. Can I get some opinions of the following grease?

I'm having trouble finding a Lithium grease in a 3oz tube that I like - so any recommendations on that one would be great as well.

Moly Grease:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCSNU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1SV1BYDTUK2Z5

Lithium Grease:

To Be Determined

 

[TrkyMfns]

I'm in the same boat as you. I normally had the dealer do it, but since the cannot be trusted to perform the services I pay them for, I'm doing it myself for the first time.

 

[BLACK-FL4RUNNER]

Don't waste your time with the little 3oz tubes.

Get the big guns/tubes, you'll thank yourself later.

:yo:

 

[cryption1]

Don't waste your time with the little 3oz tubes.

Get the big guns/tubes, you'll thank yourself later.

:yo:

Ya think? I figure it's only a couple squeezes per zerk every oil change, I would picture a 3oz tube lasting a long time ... and it's way less to store in my garage since I'll have two of them.

Do you have experience? Do you burn through the big tube quickly and I'm underestimating how much grease I'm going to use?

 

[renau001]

I agree with getting the normal size grease gun. If you do it properly you'll use more than you think. Plus you might find other uses, and the mini guns and cheap guns are junk. In my area, advance auto parts has a good selection of $4 a tube conventional valvoline greases, moly and non-moly. I have 2 of the good Lincoln grease guns.

 

[cryption1]

You don't find storage a bother with 2 big ol grease guns? I guess that's my big hang up ... my garage is small and packed with crap already lol

 

[internski]

Grease gun storage is easy breezy

 

[Engineer]

I agree with getting the normal size grease gun. If you do it properly you'll use more than you think. Plus you might find other uses, and the mini guns and cheap guns are junk. In my area, advance auto parts has a good selection of $4 a tube conventional valvoline greases, moly and non-moly. I have 2 of the good Lincoln grease guns.

I agree with this, I tried the small guns and tubes, it was not quality grease.......still better then nothing and in all reality the 4runner won't care much but I sleep better.

 

[catrains]

I used this exact same grease for over 20 years never had a joint fail. problem I did have is the grease will not wash off clothes joints never rust or wear.

I use lithium brown grease on U joints and slip yoke this moly graph grease. works for a long time . I grease before winter hits all my vehicles.
I also use big guns .

 

[NorthwoodsRunner]

I am in an agreement on using regular grease guns. I just bought two Lincoln grease guns from Northern Tool for $70 plus tax (there is $10 off coupon if you purchase more than $50)Lincoln Pistol Grip Grease Gun — 7,500 PSI, Model# 1134 | Manual Grease Guns| Northern Tool + Equipment).

I purchased Mobil 1 grease for spider (U-Joints) and Valvoline VV985 for slide yoke. I don't think you will be able to get enough pressure with smaller grease guns. I had to buy a few new tools for my 4Runner: New floor jack, 5 mm hex socket.

 

[cryption1]

I reckon I'll just go with the consensus on this one and get some big grease guns and the grease I originally wanted. Thanks for chiming in friends

 

[jrandom]

Having one small and one large it's easy to tell which grease is which, driveline big, u-joints small. Just saying... FYI amsoil makes synthetics in 3oz too, that said I am running the risk of everything exploding by running a single grease :madgrin:

 

[NuclearN8]

I am confused why we need 2 different greases. The 2016 manual clearly states it is acceptable to use the same grease in both spider and slide...

Pg 468, Section 8-1

Chassis lubrication
Propeller shafts
Spider
Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2

Slide yoke
Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis
grease, NLGI No.2 or
Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2

What am I missing here?

 

[cryption1]

I am confused why we need 2 different greases. The 2016 manual clearly states it is acceptable to use the same grease in both spider and slide...

Pg 468, Section 8-1

Chassis lubrication
Propeller shafts
Spider
Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2

Slide yoke
Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis
grease, NLGI No.2 or
Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2

What am I missing here?

Interesting I may have missed that part ... I found a lot of info on the forums about multiple people doing the 2 grease gun system with Moly for the slide yokes and lithium for the other stuff

I have a 2016 as well, maybe it's something that was updated in our manual vs older models? Looks like we could in use the litium in everything according to this.

I do understand the desire for the moly over the lithium though. The moly acts like little ball bearings. This could spark some interesting discussions though ... since all the threads I've been finding are essentially what grease to use, and how to do the two grease method. Interesting indeed.

 

[NuclearN8]

Yeah my 2007 manual state 2 different greases (only saw it in the 2016 manual because I'm thinking about adding another 4R to the garage and was curious so looked). I've been pushing Mobil1 into our 2007 for 9 years and 112,000 miles at each oil change with zero issue and no clunking drivetrain.

The bottom line is if you pump in a quality grease at regular intervals, you'll be fine. This isn't something you need to over think or be paranoid about.

If nothing else, it's nice that Toyota finally simplified the manual to acknowledge it really doesn't matter if you put 1 grease in both... if it's lithium based and NGLI-2 you're good to go, which most common synthetic chassis greases are, M1, Valvoline.. etc...

 

[cryption1]

I was thinking about this grease as a all in one grease:

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV...&qid=1474649496&sr=8-3&keywords=NLGI+2+grease

Opinions? It doesn't have Moly in it.

 

[NuclearN8]

I was thinking about this grease as a all in one grease:

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV...&qid=1474649496&sr=8-3&keywords=NLGI+2+grease

Opinions? It doesn't have Moly in it.

as good as any other... go for it.

What do the NLGI label symbols stand for?

ASTM D 4950 includes specifications for two category groups: chassis lubricants (letter "L" prefix) and wheel bearing lubricants (letter "G" prefix).

Performance classifications within these groups result in two letter designations for chassis greases (LA and LB) and three for wheel bearing greases (GA, GB, and GC).

The automotive industry is in general agreement that the highest performance category, to date, in each group (LB and GC) is suitable for service relubrication. Following the development of these categories, NLGI implemented its NLGI service classification as a means of identifying to the consumer the two highest performance levels: GC and LB; the combination, GC-LB, represents a multi-purpose category.

 

[renau001]

I was thinking about this grease as a all in one grease:

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV...&qid=1474649496&sr=8-3&keywords=NLGI+2+grease

Opinions? It doesn't have Moly in it.

I'm pretty sure that is what I have in my u-joint gun. No issues using it. If it meets the spec you're golden, a lot of people seem to say that they prefer the conventional greases to the synthetics (due to synthetics separating a little more easily in storage) which is why I've stayed with the cheaper stuff. I do have a separate gun for the slip joints that has the same grease just with moly in it. Agree thought that the manual clearly states the non-moly is good for both. And most people say they have no issues using moly in both.

As others have stated, don't overthink it, and certainly don't worry. Get whatever's the easiest for you to obtain. If you're providing fresh grease periodically, you're probably doing more than most. These joints would probably last a long time without any grease at all.

 

[ADK Explorer]

Had a friend tell me not to pump too much grease in or "over pressurize" the joints?! Is this a real concern or is he just talking spit?

 

[catrains]

Had a friend tell me not to pump too much grease in or "over pressurize" the joints?! Is this a real concern or is he just talking spit?

takes some experience to know when its good. pump grease in slowly you will feel resistance to the pumping of grease . when the handle starts to get slightly harder to pump then its good.

normally 2 half pumps is when this occurs. on the U joints look that some grease has leaked out the wipe off any that leaked , to keep the grease from flying around on other stuff.

on the slip yokes these need very little grease because its just on the shaft surface and the moly grease does last a long time on a very good sealed joint. when changing the engine oil check that you see some grease on these .

the grease will also keep the water out of all this stuff.