The Smokey Build

[Rockdawg84]

Got to go out with some friends yesterday afternoon. Ended up taking 3 rigs, My runner, my wifes fzj80 white, and a friends fzj80 tan.

We went to the Gap near tucson and only went in the first 4 miles or so then at sunset we built a bonfire and cooked some hotdogs and marshmallows. Then came out in the dark. It was an awesome time and the dual cases worked flawlessly.

 

[Rockdawg84]

As I said the dual cases are amazing. Here is a video of me climbing an obstacle called Land Rover Hill. Double Low first Gear, and I Idled up the whole thing. Never touched the Gas. :tea:<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YpHJb243r2c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[eranry]

Wow you cant beat that price! Great looking ride, although the smoke smell must suck.

 

[Rockdawg84]

Wow you cant beat that price! Great looking ride, although the smoke smell must suck.

Thanks Lots of Fabreze and the smell is pretty much gone.

 

[Rockdawg84]

couple more vids from last week.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tTYY83nrJK0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wUFCo-bNHh0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9RqrbzDH5tg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Rockdawg84]

finished up a little project that I hadn't posted about. My Air box was broken and I had been band-Aiding it for a while now and I've wanted to increase the air flow. So following this thread

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/222163-maf-conversion-wiring-02-maf-98-a.html

Ordered a great cheap kit off of Amazon $69.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JIS6UEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and a new Denson MAF for $75.88

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J398Y8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

About 45 min to install including repining the plug. The only thing that was a problem was that the clamps that came with the intake kit were to big but fortunately I had some that were the right size. I may someday update the connecting hoses to silicone but for now it is great. Started up and ran great first crank. More air makes more power :drum:

 

[1997T4R]

thanks for posting your air box set up.

 

[jkeith.w]

So today I enter a rare club. 3rd gen 4Runner's with 5 speed, supercharged, dual locked and yes now dual transfer cases!! Woo hoo is done and I could not be happier with how it has turned out.

This is awesome.

 

[Rockdawg84]

This is awesome.

thank you and I totally agree :whoo:

 

[amalik]

thank you and I totally agree :whoo:

I'm not sure there's any 3rd gen on T4R in the club you described.

 

[Rockdawg84]

I'm not sure there's any 3rd gen on T4R in the club you described.

There are a couple of guys who have dual cases and dual locked on 35's but I am prob the only one with triple sticks :becky: I may start a thread for guys with dual cases. that would be fun to document.

 

[shootmymime]

There are a couple of guys who have dual cases and dual locked on 35's but I am prob the only one with triple sticks :becky: I may start a thread for guys with dual cases. that would be fun to document.

How do your front axles hold up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rockdawg84]

How do your front axles hold up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So far they are doing great. I think that with the gearing so low and the front locker there is very little shock load. So it almost totally eliminates the wheel spin and grab that so often blows up front axles. Time will tell but the only way to upgrade from here is Lotus or RCV's or SAS or LT with 4th gen 8" center diff.:clap2::becky::clap2::becky:

 

[amalik]

There are a couple of guys who have dual cases and dual locked on 35's but I am prob the only one with triple sticks :becky: I may start a thread for guys with dual cases. that would be fun to document.

True but I don't think they are 5speed

 

[foo]

Over the last weekend got to go out and do a little wheeling but when I came home my clutch pedal was to the floor ...

As I looked at the pedal assembly .... I have been having a problem where the pedal won't fully return as I release it. I have read that there is a bushing that wares out and sure enough the bushing was missing and the pedal arm was wearing through by the spring....

$95 later I have a new pedal and all the bushings to bring the clutch pedal back to new, even a new spring.

Last week, I was confronted with the exact same symptoms that you had.

Thanks very much for this thread, and your guidance on replacing the QPQ bushings in my thread on the subject, and for your eye-opening set of attachments, which instantly cleared up the confusion for me when I was confronted with a finicky clutch pedal last week.

I'd be very curious to see a photo of what your QPQ bushings currently look like, since it appears that the brittle hard plastic U-shaped P bushing is destroyed far sooner than anyone actually notices that it's long gone.

Is your P bushing still intact today?

 

[EatonKyleH]

Very nice!
Who made your shift boot for the triple sticks? It looks great! I'm looking to have one exactly like that made for mine.

 

[Rockdawg84]

Very nice!
Who made your shift boot for the triple sticks? It looks great! I'm looking to have one exactly like that made for mine.

I had a local Auto Upholstery Shop make it. I took my old boot to them and said I need this duplicated with an extra part. If you do this I would recommend that you have them give some extra room. I hadn't taken into account that the taco plate moves the transfer shifters back an extra 1 inch. I am now having the boot pull out of the console because the transfer case shifters are in the back position all the time which pulls the front out of the little clips. I just need to pull it out and make a better way to secure it in the console, not a big deal but I wish I had realized before.

Love your build btw. I miss living in FoCo and wheeling Kelly Flats. Is it even still an open trail?

 

[BrandonF]

Im curious to know how you cleared the 35's with such unmolested fenders front and rear? My wheel setup is 8" wide with 3.25" backspacing and I had to fold the rear fender lips under to clear my 285's under flex. If my tires were any bigger or wider, I'd definitely have to cut the fender itself.

Same goes up front: I removed the coilovers and compressed the tires to full compression and all I had to do was trim the very bottom corner of the rear of the front fenders to prevent tire contact... or so I thought. I ended up hitting an unexpected cross ditch at speed one night and the front driver tire compressed hard enough that it actually contacted the top of the front fender and put a good crease in it. If I was running 35's, I figure I'd need to take 1.5-2" off the whole fender.

 

[EatonKyleH]

I had a local Auto Upholstery Shop make it. I took my old boot to them and said I need this duplicated with an extra part. If you do this I would recommend that you have them give some extra room. I hadn't taken into account that the taco plate moves the transfer shifters back an extra 1 inch. I am now having the boot pull out of the console because the transfer case shifters are in the back position all the time which pulls the front out of the little clips. I just need to pull it out and make a better way to secure it in the console, not a big deal but I wish I had realized before.

Love your build btw. I miss living in FoCo and wheeling Kelly Flats. Is it even still an open trail?

Thanks for the insight. Such a sweet build.

You used to live in Foco!? Yup Kelly Flats is still open and I go up there at least once every year with a couple other guys on here it's a fun one.

If you ever find yourself headed up this way again I'd love to wheel with ya!

 

[Rockdawg84]

Im curious to know how you cleared the 35's with such unmolested fenders front and rear? My wheel setup is 8" wide with 3.25" backspacing and I had to fold the rear fender lips under to clear my 285's under flex. If my tires were any bigger or wider, I'd definitely have to cut the fender itself.

Same goes up front: I removed the coilovers and compressed the tires to full compression and all I had to do was trim the very bottom corner of the rear of the front fenders to prevent tire contact... or so I thought. I ended up hitting an unexpected cross ditch at speed one night and the front driver tire compressed hard enough that it actually contacted the top of the front fender and put a good crease in it. If I was running 35's, I figure I'd need to take 1.5-2" off the whole fender.

Brandon,

I followed the trails less traveled method of clearancing just like you did. Remove the coilover, tire back on, jack up, find where it rubs and then pound away, but then I also took a small crescent wrench and folded the lip of the finder back up and in and creased it with a block of wood and hammer. It took time but with some work it came out. now I did have to remove the interior kick panels and trim them because I moved the finderwell back so far. LOL In the rear I did the same thing, except I had to trim the lower rear corner of the finderwell. In the rear I am running SS 1.5" drop bracket. When I'm crossed up really hard I do get a little rubbing in the rear but I haven't taken the time to do a little more clearancing.