Ticking after bent valve replacement

C

chewyspark47

New member
Hey folks

Just got my car back after bending 6 valves after a timing belt replacement
Everything was replaced by a mechanic and he's telling me that the ticking I hear will go away after ~300miles of driving because the valves/seals need to seat properly. Because it was sitting for 2 months with no oil running through it all...

Does this make sense to y'all?
I also have CEL light and VSC OFF/ VSC TRAC/ abs lights on. I forgot the specific code he told me but he said it had to do with fuel/ air sensor in bank 1. Which was replaced and should go off after awhile too.
 
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Did he give you a 300 mile warranty also?

But all seriousness, what happened to cause the valves to bend after the timing belt replacement?
 
Maybe the valve clearance needs to be rechecked with the new valves. Either way, take it back to them.
 
Long story short, had an old school look at new school engine and I trusted him because he's mechanic by trade. He cranked it bent the valves, turns out I had it right before he messed with it... expense lessons learned.

So no truth behind the "valves and lifters need time to work themselves in" statement?

I definitely will if nothing improves. Ordered a good scanner to look at my baby myself and see what I can do or at least find out.

I've asked 2 people and they've told me that it definitely sounds like lifters.
 
chewyspark47 said:
Long story short, had an old school look at new school engine and I trusted him because he's mechanic by trade. He cranked it bent the valves, turns out I had it right before he messed with it... expense lessons learned.

So no truth behind the "valves and lifters need time to work themselves in" statement?

I definitely will if nothing improves. Ordered a good scanner to look at my baby myself and see what I can do or at least find out.

I've asked 2 people and they've told me that it definitely sounds like lifters.
Click to expand...

At this point it's a wait and see kind of thing if it seems to be running good otherwise.

Just an FYI, there are no lifters in these engines, these are over head cam engines, the valves have cups on top of them and they have various thickness depending on how thick they need to be to obtain the correct valve clearance.

That being said if he didn't mark these cups when he removed them so they went back on the same valve, then that could be very well the issue, OR the new valves may need a different thickness cup to get the clearance correct.

Did the same person who damaged the valves do the valve replacement, or did a mechanic who knows how these engines work do the valve work??

Whoever did the work I hope they at least had a "real" Toyota shop manual to know how it's suppose to be done,!!

There's nothing wrong using an "old school mechanic" IF and only IF that mechanic has the correct manuals to know the proper procedures and specs, I know this for a fact because I'm an old school mechanic, but I'm a good one and know to use a manual to get it right on very technical procedures, even the best new school mechanics have to use shop manuals because there's just to much step by step and specs for anyone to ever memorize or just already know unless they do the same procedure every day over and over again, this holds true even on old school equipment not just new school equipment.
 
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AuSeeker said:
At this point it's a wait and see kind of thing if it seems to be running good otherwise.

Just an FYI, there are no lifters in these engines, these are over head cam engines, the valves have cups on top of them and they have various thickness depending on how thick they need to be to obtain the correct valve clearance.

That being said if he didn't mark these cups when he removed them so they went back on the same valve, then that could be very well the issue, OR the new valves may need a different thickness cup to get the clearance correct.

Did the same person who damaged the valves do the valve replacement, or did a mechanic who knows how these engines work do the valve work??

Whoever did the work I hope they at least had a "real" Toyota shop manual to know how it's suppose to be done,!!

There's nothing wrong using an "old school mechanic" IF and only IF that mechanic has the correct manuals to know the proper procedures and specs, I know this for a fact because I'm an old school mechanic, but I'm a good one and know to use a manual to get it right on very technical procedures, even the best new school mechanics have to use shop manuals because there's just to much step by step and specs for anyone to ever memorize or just already know unless they do the same procedure every day over and over again, this holds true even on old school equipment not just new school equipment.
Click to expand...

It's running good besides that ticking but I'm concerned that it's damaging things. So if this engine has cups and not lifters, there's no truth behind the "they have to seat themselves?" Statement

No 2 different people, first was "family" and 2nd was a mechanic that worked at Toyota stealership and got tired of doing oil changes all day and started his own business. I doubt they used the FSM... and I agree a great mechanic is a great mechanic but some people just choose to stay in their era, mentality wise, instead of learning and growing with the times.
 
Typically a traditional lifter will tick for a few seconds or so until it 'pumps up' on a new build or a rebuild. After which it won't tick again unless it sits for a long, long while.

There is nothing to 'pump up' in a bucket over style lifter. They either run quiet or they don't.

That said, there's a lot going on in a VVT valvetrain, even with a simplistic bucket over lifter. If there is ticking something isn't right, how not right? Well, have you checked you oil for metallic particles? sent a sample to Blackstone? Had another mechanic check the previous mechanics work?

Also did your mechanic replace the associated valve guides along with the bent valves? If not you may have a valve sticking, causing the tick.
 
Trumpet said:
Typically a traditional lifter will tick for a few seconds or so until it 'pumps up' on a new build or a rebuild. After which it won't tick again unless it sits for a long, long while.

There is nothing to 'pump up' in a bucket over style lifter. They either run quiet or they don't.

That said, there's a lot going on in a VVT valvetrain, even with a simplistic bucket over lifter. If there is ticking something isn't right, how not right? Well, have you checked you oil for metallic particles? sent a sample to Blackstone? Had another mechanic check the previous mechanics work?

Also did your mechanic replace the associated valve guides along with the bent valves? If not you may have a valve sticking, causing the tick.
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I haven't gotten a second look at it because I just got it back in Wednesday and was told to drive around for 300miles and that it should quiet down somewhere in that time. But seeing as I've driven it for 50~ miles and nothing has changed I'm shopping around for opinions/mechanics. I really don't trust him doing a better jobs second time if the first time didn't go well.

Can anyone conclude anything from this video?

This is about after 30miles of driving.

https://youtu.be/8tZ-WYte2rY
 
I can't imagine what he talking about when he saying "...seat themselves...", but if true this wouldn't have anything to do with "seals" as you mentioned in your first post, if anything he maybe referring to valve seats, if I did the job I would usually have replaced the valve seat on any bend valve if it had any visible or measurable damage when the valve bent, the new valve would have to be seated to the new or original valve seat to insure the valve and seat or sealing completely, this process is done prior to the head being reinstalled on the engine, that being said it's possible that the valve could seat itself further into the seat after running a bit, if this happens then the valve and thus the stem would move upwards towards the cam and would decrease the valve clearance though it would be a very slight difference, which could stop the ticking which is usually caused by too much valve clearance.

I also agree that the valve guides should have been at least checked and replaced if damaged, when he installed the new valves it should of been very apparent if the guide were damaged to the point of binding the valve and thus would cause it to stick, also if the valve was sticking it should cause the engine to misfire from time to time and you would most likely notice it and or it would most likely throw a misfire code.

That all being said I don't think you will cause any damage by driving it, just drive it moderately and pay close attention if the ticking gets worst/louder or the engine starts running erratically, if either happens take it immediately to get checked out, also if it doesn't get better at or around the said 300 mile range take it in also, if it hasn't gotten better at that point is most likely won't.
 
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If the valves get replaced, the buckets most certainly should have been replaced as well to maintain proper backlash
 
scw1991 said:
If the valves get replaced, the buckets most certainly should have been replaced as well to maintain proper backlash
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This ^
The tapping is because the valves are "out of adjustment" due to not being reassembled correctly.
I don't think it'll quit after a few hundred miles.
 
scw1991 said:
If the valves get replaced, the buckets most certainly should have been replaced as well to maintain proper backlash
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Is buckets the technical term? A part number would help a lot. I have to ask the mechanic and I have to translate to Spanish lol.

Yeah I doubted from the start that it would alleviate over time but since this well put of my realm of expertise, had nothing to say and didn't know the rift questions to even ask.

I appreciate all your help on this.!
 
I have built and rebuilt hundreds of motors and never once has any of them ticked after start up. They will tick for maybe 10-15 seconds (hydro lifters especially) but as soon as full oil pressure makes it all the way around the ticking stops.

Sounds like the mechanic did something incorrectly. The only thing I would suggest is making sure the manifolds are not cracked and the gasket is not leaking. An exhaust leak can make a tick sound from time to time.

His argument of 300 miles is a little ridiculous. If he truly insists on you waiting 300 miles, then get it documented that you complained, and after 300 miles take it back. He should easily be able to document the complaint. Take it back, he should note on the work order "customer complains of ticking after valve replacement, suggested to customer to drive 300 miles" or something of that sort.

Be nice and dont be accusatory yet, it will only piss the shop off. Step up the game once they truly deny your complaint and after you have done whatever they request you to (in this case drive 300 miles)
 
Yeah YouTube does have some great info!

Makes me want to go in and check it out myself lol

Maybe if the mechanic doesn't get it right the second time lol.

Thanks for all the input fellas, definitely got me a great starting point to research because I was lost when I first posted.
 
I've tried googling but can't find a direct answer so hoping you guys can help.

I was told that "bank 1" is on the drivers side and bank 2 is passenger...

Can anyone confirm this for me?

V8 4.7 2uzfe engine 2007 Toyota 4Runner sport edition

Thanks
 
chewyspark47 said:
I've tried googling but can't find a direct answer so hoping you guys can help.

I was told that "bank 1" is on the drivers side and bank 2 is passenger...

Can anyone confirm this for me?

V8 4.7 2uzfe engine 2007 Toyota 4Runner sport edition

Thanks
Click to expand...

From all I have read on this, that is correct.

Here's 2 links that also confirm this is correct, the first is a TSB that says bank 1 is the bank that has cylinder 1, I know not much help, but the second link shows the firing order and a schematic showing the cylinders.

https://workshop-manuals.com/toyota...ne_controls_a/f_and_o2_sensor_identification/

https://www.autozone.com/repairguid...ing-Orders/Firing-Orders/_/P-0996b43f80378dce
 
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AuSeeker said:
From all I have read on this, that is correct.

Here's 2 links that also confirm this is correct, the first is a TSB that says bank 1 is the bank that has cylinder 1, I know not much help, but the second link shows the firing order and a schematic showing the cylinders.

https://workshop-manuals.com/toyota...ne_controls_a/f_and_o2_sensor_identification/

https://www.autozone.com/repairguid...ing-Orders/Firing-Orders/_/P-0996b43f80378dce
Click to expand...

Thanks! It turns out the guy forgot to plug in o2 sensor and replaced the one on the opposite bank. Made me spend $200 extra for no reason
 
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