TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

I made some progress towards the install...

I removed those OEM bumper supports that were taking-up a couple inches of vertical space near the frame rail ends.

UX3TXQ3.jpg


While I did a pretty good job of drilling-out the spot welds, a couple areas penetrated through the floor. I decided to cut some pieces of sheet metal, and pop rivet them in place, with liberal amounts of 100% silicone in between...

bZnpeM4.jpg


Both sides done and painted black. No photo at this time, but I'm sure they will be seen in a later post...

The tank brackets and holes line-up well.

KxmH8cG.jpg


I put a small bead of 100% silicone at each end of the tank to serve as a cushion of sorts.

MnaVpDS.jpg


I applied the black 100% silicone on the top side of the platform where the angles join the plate.

Jh0koY6.jpg


I went to the The Home Depot, Lowe's and Harbor Freight today to find items to fill my on-board tool bag. I got this plastic ammo can for 4 bucks.

tyAqziI.jpg


A few will fit in this newly created storage space, but I was pleasantly surprised how it fits here.

jmTOYJZ.jpg


I moved the 4Runner onto level ground, got the rear on jack stands, and removed the driver side wheel. All set for the install tomorrow...
 
Last edited:
While laying under the rear of the 4Runner, looking up through the hole, I saw why the rear hatch light was not working. The bulb was not in place. I thought it had simply popped-out, but nope.

mEBljht.jpg


With the Tahoe trip this Sat, I'm hoping this will be an easy fix... Any input, please do share. I'll search the forum later.
 
With the past weekend our last before our trip, I had less time than I had hoped. But, I did get everything installed, filled the tank and transferred the fuel to the main tank, although not as I had hoped...

This time got the tank in place first, holding it as seen here.

cfQIxv8.jpg


After lifting the plate into place, for those 3rd bolts on each frame rail, a breaker bar worked great to secure the nut while I tightened from below.

mSBajGI.jpg


On the passenger side, because of the exhaust, I had to use a wrench to get on the bolt head. I slid a pipe over it to get more leverage. All six bolts are very tight, blue thread locked in place.

SGjF9W3.jpg


Wanting to limit the amount of water going into the storage space, I got a 3' piece of aluminum angle and trimmed it to fit nicely onto the bumper. Here it is drying.

s9JZD5s.jpg


And installed.

Ulbz9r9.jpg


Some water can still enter through those holes, and I might address that later, but not sure. A little water is not going to hurt with what I'll have down there...

Before I forget, I went to back to Harbor freight and got 5 more of those ammo cans at 4 bucks each. They are stackable, which is nice. I should be able stack two comfortably in that side storage area...

The tank valve required some cutting as the knob was hitting the top of plate. A Dremel cut-off wheel worked well.

8hXTO9S.jpg


Some blue fingernail polish on the exposed metal.

GwmEiTa.jpg


That did the trick. I might cut the other one too... Valve open.

UFbBZGZ.jpg


I tried making a video of me filling the tank, but it's not worth watching, so I deleted it. Not easy to hold the phone while working the pump, at least for the first time. I will say that the floor did indeed keep the nozzle from going too deep into the tank. I got like 4.2 gallons in it with little problem. I had some paper towels ready in case I had an overflow situation. They were not needed.

When it came to move the gas into the main tank, I was able to get about 3' of hose down the fill neck. I surmise that I need to go about 1 more foot to get a syphon flow. I just couldn't get it to turn that corner. That said, I got about 3 1/2 gallons transferred just working that bulb. I know because I later decided to fill a 1 gallon gas can, and got it about half full. I will eventually rig-up that fuel pump I showed earlier. Here is the fuel hose with prime bulb drying after I cleaned it...

wByEYEw.jpg


For all the weight-savings I had been noting along the way, I add quite a bit here. The plate, with 4+ gallon tank (empty), brackets and hardware - 72 pounds. I had previously removed spare tire support at 20 pounds, so a 52 pound increase in that spot. Increased weight down low is better than up high though. The added space for an 18" tool bag, recovery bag and spare parts is worth it, I feel.
 
Some minor updates before our Tahoe trip tomorrow...

A free Harbor Freight 5x7 foot tarp and small mover's blanket for one buck are now on the floor of the storage area.

apsozFL.jpg


cnFZ8q1.jpg


The only time I had to wrench on my FJ40 when off-roading, I was on my back in the mud, wishing I had something like a tarp and/or blanket...

I tightened everything up really well, used the black silicone between the stitch welds, some paint and of course fingernail polish so i can easily monitor for any loosening.

RNlu1MX.jpg


G3RfNCK.jpg


YU6iP59.jpg


I still don't have a hard cover yet, but I cut the mats as seen here.

NgpKsMv.jpg


YMzn6bw.jpg


Auw0oZz.jpg


sD2MR2Z.jpg


For now, this is what I have in that 18" tool bag... The item on top is a telescoping magnet.

2i6Qhte.jpg


I don't quite have the sockets 100% figured-out. As an example, I thought there was no need for a 13mm, but if I need to remove the front skid, that comes in handy (probably 1/2"). Not wanting to break-up my existing sets, I'll buy a couple more sockets later.

Y2s4r8d.jpg


Yup, I like vice grips...

azLVOgC.jpg


Cutting, filing, brushing...

M4pHjfX.jpg


2 foot zip ties and some 1-footers, some metal, 16 gauge baling wire, fusion and duct tape...

SlOcCTK.jpg


Electrical.

Tujrxnd.jpg


Black pouch open...

nWDQmBR.jpg


In all, that stuff in that tool bag, about 24 pounds. Here it is in place. The space to the left is wide open. I'll work on a recovery gear bag when back home.

rnRISoI.jpg


Checked all fluids, air pressure in the tires, Rain-Xd the windshield, filled both gas tanks...
 
Last edited:
Nice work Tony! The compartment is cleanly hidden.

I found one of the HF boxes and it does fit nicely in the cargo area. Thanks again for the tip. It cleaned up my storage back there nicely.
 
Thanks man. Glad you got one of those HF boxes too. They are stackable, and I think two of more would go in that storage area, if desired....

In Tahoe now. Just got groceries and about to start cooking dinner in the cabin...

What a difference that tranny cooler made. As a reminder, last year on the way to Tahoe, up 80, I hit 230F a couple times and I pulled-over to let it cool. That was with the factory cooler and OD on (I didn't know at that time about turning OD off).

This year, with the factory cooler replaced by that aftermkt one, and with OD off on the inclines, I saw 143 for a high up that same grade! 138-141 most of the time.... Was doing between 65-70 mph. I saw 165 for a high on the trip in stop/go traffic in the Bay Area up a hill. Would have been lower if I turned OD off.

What makes this even more impressive is that last year our trip was in Feb, with much cooler ambient temps. Also, last year my 4Runner didn't have aftermkt bumpers, skid plates, sliders, that rear storage plate, extra fuel, tools and supplies. I carried much more weight this year in warmer weather and saw markedly lower tranny temps. Very happy.
 
Last edited:
Back from Tahoe. I think we'll be doing our annual Tahoe trips in early April every year...

The 4Runner ran like a champ the whole time. When home, I transferred the extra fuel to the main tank using the hose and primer bulb. It took about 15 minutes to move those 4+ gallons. I'll have a better/faster method, but in a pinch, this manual way is not that bad at all...

I don't plan to haul tools all the time, just when we go on trips and when I begin off-roading. So, I removed the tool bag and I was happy that I was able to get that 18" bag out of the hole without needing to take-out any tools. With an ARB snatch strap coming next week, the recovery bag will be complete. That too will fit in that space with ease, along with the tool bag.

To ensure that I tightened the gas cap all the way, I marked it.

iXhCWsB.jpg


Not sure yet how I'll use the space where the factory jack was located, but i have some ideas. For those who care, just a tad under 7 pounds.

tz5r3v8.jpg


With Tahoe behind me, my wife about 80% recovered, next up are the Kings in the front and the SPC UCAs. Wheels/tires too...
 
Last edited:
Glad to read the trans cooler is working out well. Any pics from Tahoe? Did you ski?

Btw regarding this rumored Kings front suspension upgrade I'm not sure which one I've been waiting for a longer amount of months: Game of Thrones season 8 or the first hand report on these 650lb Kings coils .....
 
Hey Brian.

Truth be told, on the morning we were to leave for Tahoe, we almost didn't. I was emailing my wife's surgeon with questions/concerns right up to about an hour before leaving...

Suffice it to say, with her not being very mobile and not feeling well, it was a low key trip. The kids were quite happy though with sledding, snow ball fights with Daddy, snow angels and just playing in the snow. I helped them make a tunnel, which took quite a while, but very worthwhile. I'll always remember when we joined hands from from our respective holes, the excitement in their faces. We then excavated enough so each could fit through. Got some cool video and photos that my wife is compiling... Oh, I also did some ice skating with them at Northstar. Surprised I still remember how to skate, even backwards! I learned to ski at Northstar 40+ years ago. It was surreal being back there, with my own little ones. I checked and will get them skiing next year. I brought-up some DVDs, and we watched movies every night in the cabin. They had fun and the wife's health improved too.

If there is one photo I wish I would taken, it was when I was in the hot tub one early evening. I was the only one in, it was raining and turned to light snow. There was enough sunlight left to see the lake glistening through the water's steam. Could have been an awesome shot, I feel. It's in the memory banks though. I'll bring my phone to the hot tub next time!

I used the AWD for a little over an hour in total. Nothing more was needed. I remain very satisfied with the purchase of the 3rd gen.

Oh, I sold the rear trailer hitch for 75 dollars. So, the updated list of items sold:

$400 - Leather Front Seats

$50 - Factory Stereo & Amp

$75 - Cargo Privacy Cover

$50 - Skid Plates (2)

$150 - Rear Bumper

$25 - Spare Tire Crank

$200 - Front Bumper

$50 - Roof rack cross members

$50 - Front bumper carrier

$75 - Trailer hitch
++++++

That's $1,125. Curious what I can get for the wheels and tires...

Of note, I've now sold the entirety of the front and rear stock bumpers for a total of $475. Certainly helps offset the costs of the aftermarket ones.

Will start reading-up on installing the Kings and those SPC arms. I recall that that I should use the G setting on those. With my 4Runner not fitting into our low garage opening, not having a good level surface, I'll likely check with Tim to see if he can help. He was open to such earlier in the year. His experience and tools would be welcome for sure. I'm not even sure if I have the correct separator for the job. I need to re-watch one or two of his videos...
 
If I can get the utility trailer mated-up with the Savage rear bumper, I might haul the five tires and wheels to Tires Unlimited Silicon Valley this Saturday morning. I didn't exactly shop around, but $125 seems reasonable...

With those done and waiting, I'll do the front Kings and SPC UCAs. I did a fair amount of reading, and I think I have the tools needed for the knuckle. If so, I'll set the SPC UCAs at "G for max clearance, and for max caster, on the LCAs, the front cams rotated inward, and the back cams turn outward, both to the max. That's the plan, then to a shop for an alignment, where adjustments will be only on those LCAs (camber and toe refinement). Apparently Tires Unlimited Silicon Valley also does alignments.

For now, I have this for recovery gear. The yellow utility/tow strap is a Harbor Freight special that I plan to use for moving fallen trees, limbs and other such work... I learned from Roy at Savage that his bumpers take a 7/8" pin, so that's what I got.

PRk8PwU.jpg


And in this duffel, where the contents sit nice and flat. I believe the bag should fit in the lowest vertical space at the very rear of the storage area. If so, that still leaves plenty of room for other items.

F1x7Dgb.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hear about the tough part of the Tahoe trip. I wish your wife the best and a speedy recovery.

Tahoe is an awesome place. I used to go up there every year with my parents, driving from San Jose.

The bag and storage box look like they are working out well. Maybe add a few road flares for safety?
.
 
Sorry to hear about the tough part of the Tahoe trip. I wish your wife the best and a speedy recovery.

Tahoe is an awesome place. I used to go up there every year with my parents, driving from San Jose.

The bag and storage box look like they are working out well. Maybe add a few road flares for safety?
.

Brian, thanks for the well-wishes. She's just starting to take the kids to school and pick them up, so getting better...

Great idea - flares. Will get for sure. I have space. Super happy with this mod.

I don't need my utility trailer to get the five tires and five wheels to the shop.

f2sePHf.jpg


4z3X4J1.jpg


I got all of the labels off the tires. I've seen places spin them with tons of stickers on them...

On a related note, and I don't think I mentioned this before, but I'm a somewhat active investor. All mods have been financed by the selling of covered call options. Today, which is why I bring it up, I collected $2,800 from selling AAPL calls (215 strike, 10 May). I do such every month or so, also with SPY and QQQ positions. I allocate some of the proceeds to this build. I do the same with other projects, but failed to mention such here until now....
 
Last edited:
While no work was done today on the 4Runner, I was able to make it down to the tire shop. Was there 15 minutes before they opened, and first in line.

r0UaUC5.jpg


A little less than 30 minutes for all five... Got them back home and feeling motivated to get them on sooner as opposed to later. Wish there weren't so many weeds to cut.

XPZffJQ.jpg


r2r66Zx.jpg


Not true 33s of course. A bit more than 32 3/4".

OOBNC0m.jpg


Next up...

wm2hsLz.jpg
 
Last edited:
With much of Easter Sunday with the family, I had only a little time to get some work done. And, with a little time today, removal is now complete.

First, the flattest most level space outside the garage is on a patch of dirt on the side of the house. So, that's where I set up.

First, I took some measurements. In the rear, I put the new spare, the tool and recovery gear bags. Here's what I got.

CUWkDdg.jpg


If the Kings make for about a 2" lift out-of-the-box, that might work-out well for me...

With that noted, I got busy. I also marked exactly where I parked or positioned the tires so when I take those measurements again, I can make sure I do so in the same spot.

I continue to be a fan of jack-able jack stands. Added the floor jack simply for back-up support, applying light upward pressure only.

eizRBcb.jpg


The factory shocks were removed with no problems, three 14 mm nuts on top and a 17 mm at the bottom. The ABS lines were disconnected at three spots on each side so as to prevent any tension on those. The UBJs popped-out with ease. Not keeping them, so I went this route.

VWkQClt.jpg


Not having a deep enough socket the correct size to drive the UBJs, I shortened them.

26hElQV.jpg


fpEnhJX.jpg


Forgot, I removed retainer clip before the cutting...

SIaFmU5.jpg


I couldn't find my C press or ball joint kit. I now believe those were stolen years ago at our old house where I had those in a shed for a while as we prepared to move. I knew a couple things were taken, but just realized that those were in there too. Drat. So, I got creative...

0NDrGUg.jpg


g3FpO2U.jpg


Had to really crank-down...

7aobn0T.jpg


While I tend to believe I could have made this work, I saw the C-clamp starting bend under the force and decided it best to back it off. Went to Harbor Freight got a kit there with pretty solid reviews and a 25% discount helped...

They popped-out with ease.

e5SkaEP.jpg


Of possible note, by disconnecting the sway bar links I was able to lower each knuckle with a floor jack to a good spot that allowed for sufficient space or clearance.

e5SkaEP.jpg


UCA removal went well too. The long bolt on the driver side required the movement of the battery hot lead bracket and the bracket for this connector under the battery box.

UiZ8y5f.jpg


With those long bolts out, removal was complete.

s7tDBIu.jpg


PvgJncg.jpg


hZ3G8Di.jpg


I will do some light rust removal and cleaning next before the installation of the Kings and SPC UCAs...
 
Last edited:
Oil Change #2 - 195,763 Miles

With the current access to the oil filter, I decided to use this time to change the oil for the second time. I noticed that King only provided 3 bolts and 3 washers for the installation. Each coil-over needs three for the top mount, so King will have those here tomorrow... Very fast support.

My first three oil changes will see Seafoam treatment.

UfSq69a.jpg


I put about 6 ounces in yesterday (about an ounce per quart), and let it idle for about 15 minutes. I ran it again today for about 20 minutes, and then let it drain. I like draining oil when it's hot, and now with the Fumoto valve, this is so easy to do.

UE17eV8.jpg


I put the rest of the Seafoam in the gas tank...

I used this with a ratchet and extension to loosen the oil filter.

b4QujUr.jpg


I'm still not that good with a clean removal. It was messier than what I had hoped. Maybe I'll improve next time. I let it drain for a few hours while I attended two meetings for my employer. I got out this much out.

XF9okoQ.jpg


UPS arrived with the oil filter, actually five of them. Toyota OEM and these came to about 5 bucks each. I saw a little better deal for 10, but that was not Amazon Prime delivery, and I wanted to do the oil change today.

ewayBNx.jpg


About 5 1/2 quarts filled her up. I then used a power washer with some Simple Green to clean the spilled oil.

Tomorrow (Friday) I get the hardware from King and also five Gorilla wheel locks. The SPC UCAs and King coil-overs should get installed this weekend.
 
Last edited:
I used this with a ratchet and extension to loosen the oil filter.

b4QujUr.jpg


I'm still not that good with a clean removal. It was messier than what I had hoped. Maybe I'll improve next time.
Form-a-funnel, right under the filter:

gzLDcAjh.jpg


Once the filter is mostly drained, you can pick it out of there with a shop towel around it and you can be (basically) drip free.

-Charlie
 
Form-a-funnel, right under the filter:

gzLDcAjh.jpg


Once the filter is mostly drained, you can pick it out of there with a shop towel around it and you can be (basically) drip free.

-Charlie

I like that Charlie, thank you. I had considered simply punching a small hole near the base of the filter to allow it drain into a small container...

The SPC UCAs require grease and I can't find my grease gun! I should have a couple of them too.

For some good news, I just sold the front shocks for 100 bucks! The current total of stuff sold is $1,225:

$400 - Leather Front Seats

$50 - Stereo & Amp

$75 - Cargo Privacy Cover

$50 - Skid Plates (2)

$150 - Rear Bumper

$25 - Spare Tire Crank

$200 - Front Bumper

$50 - Roof rack cross members

$50 - Front bumper carrier

$75 - Trailer hitch

$100 - Front shocks

The buyer said that he'd like to buy my factory wheels with tires too. Don't know what the going rate is, but I'll check...
 
Made some progress... King got me the hardware as promised.

uFRX29K.jpg


The wheel locks arrived too...

oSEIypE.jpg


I found my grease gun in the shed in a box of MINI Cooper parts! And, the grease I had in it was appropriate for the SPC ball joints. So, I got those greased.

I decided to do a test fitment on the right or passenger side coil-over, and I ended- up installing it.

MeAmUDx.jpg


I suppose it would be easier to install the UCAs first, then the coil-overs. I guess I'll find-out tomorrow....

I broke one of these clips earlier. If anyone has a part number, it's probably worth getting a bag of them.

nglJaf6.jpg
 
I believe the clips that you are looking for are "25 Toyota Dash & Fender Apron Seal Retainers 90467-10186 4 Runner, FJ Crusier" on ebay. At least those are what I used when replacing my mud shields with custom ones. My 1" BL required it.

And to replace the mud shield (just FYI only since yours looks fine) I suggest using 1/16 rubber, trace it, mark it, hole punch. This one was the best I could find for the $ / SqF.

Nitrile 1/16 in. x 36 in. x 24 in. Commercial Grade 60A Black Buna Sheets
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubber-...lack-Buna-Sheets-20-111-0062-36-024/304235765

:pop2:

Are those 650 Kings going to sit high? We'll find out soon!

:beer:
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top