TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[octanejunkie]

ABS light still on, even after the battery being disco'd 12 hours. I do think it's the brake light/s though as the ABS light does not come-on when I start the engine, but only after I turn the lights on. So, I don't think I truly have an ABS problem. Maybe my logic is flawed though....

Maybe it's just my doors, but do these doors not stay open even on minimal upward slopes? My little ones keep getting "scissored".... Maybe there's an aftermkt hinge out there that works better. If so, please do share.

Try switching your third brake light back to incandescent temporarily

As far as the doors, poor girls, but it's not the hinges. Take a look on hinge-side of the door when open, see those metal rods? Those are the door stays. They are supposed to cam when open to hold the weight of the doors. The cam bushings inside the doors are probably worn out. This is on my to do list when I open the doors for speakers and door lock motor replacement.

See dis http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/244826-doors-wont-hold-open.html

 

[jbrentd]

Try switching your third brake light back to incandescent temporarily

As far as the doors, poor girls, but it's not the hinges. Take a look on hinge-side of the door when open, see those metal rods? Those are the door stays. They are supposed to cam when open to hold the weight of the doors. The cam bushings inside the doors are probably worn out. This is on my to do list when I open the doors for speakers and door lock motor replacement.

See dis http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/244826-doors-wont-hold-open.html

Thanks for the link. There another thing to add to my growing list of to-dos.

 

[TonyB66]

Try switching your third brake light back to incandescent temporarily

As far as the doors, poor girls, but it's not the hinges. Take a look on hinge-side of the door when open, see those metal rods? Those are the door stays. They are supposed to cam when open to hold the weight of the doors. The cam bushings inside the doors are probably worn out. This is on my to do list when I open the doors for speakers and door lock motor replacement.

See dis http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/244826-doors-wont-hold-open.html

Indeed, thanks Mike!

With our first family trip in the Runner during "Winter Break" (3rd week of Feb), job 1 is getting it safe.

Sucks that the factory solution is a poor one and there seems to be no aftermkt answer. The discounted price at 84 bucks each too. Damn. If this problem is to surface a gain just a year or two later, which seems to be the case, I will not go this route. Do 4th gens have this problem, and if not, any retrofit possibilities?

So much for something easy like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pofdJq2n-yE

After more reading on the ABS light, it seems that I either didn't crimp the fuse pinch connector/s all that well to the 3rd brake light wires, or that I should have done one of the lower (left or right) brake lights instead, which should be three wires. The upper 3rd brake light is just that, not dual purpose (lit only when braking). I'm inclined to think the later as the ABS light triggers as soon as I turn on the lights. I will first inspect the pinch connector and report back later.

 

[TonyB66]

Between some rain and being busy, nothing done today on the Runner.

I did drive it pick-up some MAF and TB cleaner. While driving I noticed that my glasses don't fit in that drop-down box near the map lights and sun/moonroof controls. What are those three tit-like things hanging down for:

Might be a nice location to fab something, possibly even to secure my ham radio....

 

[jbrentd]

Can you pull them off? If so, they might be various sized buttons that attach to those nubs on the door of the compartment. They push the garage door opener buttons when you push up on the door. Some cars came with multiple sizes to account for the different size openers. Just going off memory, but I remember a car we had when I was in high school that we Velcro'd the opener to in a spot like that.

 

[TonyB66]

Can you pull them off? If so, they might be various sized buttons that attach to those nubs on the door of the compartment. They push the garage door opener buttons when you push up on the door. Some cars came with multiple sizes to account for the different size openers. Just going off memory, but I remember a car we had when I was in high school that we Velcro'd the opener to in a spot like that.

I don't know if they come-off, but I would bet so; and what you say makes a lot of sense. Looking at that photo, I see velcro and small circular nubs on the bottom of the door that probably mate-up with those things. I believe the mystery has been solved. Thanks again jbrentd.

I won't park inside our garage as the Runner is already too tall, so I will find some better use for that space...

Having now heard of yet another 4Runner stolen, added to my list is theft deterrence and prevention. Something visual, like a club on the steering wheel. Truck Club a good fit? And then something not obvious, a kill switch. Found something really good on the forum that I won't elaborate on here.

 

[octanejunkie]

They are removeable

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[TonyB66]

The resistor (6 Ohm, 50 watt) on the 3rd brake light was not crimped all the way down, properly splicing into both wires. Once done, the ABS light went out! So, the relay swap and the resistor were used to convert all rear bulbs to LEDs....

If the gasket kit comes tomorrow, I'll tackle the fluids in both diffs and the transfer case. Sunday, I might replace the t-stat and radiator.

 

[TonyB66]

Instead of replying to a very old thread, figured it best to ask here...

Is it possible or feasible to replace the radiator without removing the grille? Seems to be, but having not done this before, thought it best to ask those with actual experience. I'd rather not deal with those tabs at this time...

Thanks much.

 

[octanejunkie]

Instead of replying to a very old thread, figured it best to ask here...

Is it possible or feasible to replace the radiator without removing the grille? Seems to be, but having not done this before, thought it best to ask those with actual experience. I'd rather not deal with those tabs at this time...

Thanks much.

Yes

But don't be afraid to pull the grille, it's easy af

Take a small screwdriver, reach down between the core support and the grille from the top. Approach each tab from the grille-side and press down on the tab release from the rear while pulling the grille forward at that tab. Work your way from right to left and remove the grille.

Twist each tab out of the core support, and headlights, and reinsert back into the grille.

To reinstall the grille on the truck just align the tabs with the slots and push till they click. Easy peasy Japanese

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[TonyB66]

Mike helping-out while on the road. Thanks!

 

[BrianSD_42]

So, would a "basic" projector retrofit be rather straight-forward, not all that time-consuming, and be a reliable solution, as well as upgrade? Sounds like it...

With a respirator on as I type (Darth Vader breathing!), I'm about to be in the attic for a good part of the day.

Yes a basic retrofit say the Mini D2S without halos is both easy and affordable to do. Definitely worth. I even wrote a guide.

But that is you doing it yourself. And yes sooner or later something may break albiet temporarily. Things breaking like a clip or piece of plastic is more common than casual observers realize. Octane's retrofit broke as well. Electrical burn out. Warranty replacement and he was back in business. On mine a piece of plastic broke. I've done four retrofits and two have had some small issue. These issues are no big deal if you did the work yourself. But you probably wouldn't want put them on a family members truck who lives in a different city. That's all I'm getting at.

Do the retrofit upgrade. Check TRS out on Facebook for the black Friday discount code.

 

[octanejunkie]

Yes a basic retrofit say the Mini D2S without halos is both easy and affordable to do. Definitely worth. I even wrote a guide.

But that is you doing it yourself. And yes sooner or later something may break albiet temporarily. Things breaking like a clip or piece of plastic is more common than casual observers realize. Octane's retrofit broke as well. Electrical burn out. Warranty replacement and he was back in business. On mine a piece of plastic broke. I've done four retrofits and two have had some small issue. These issues are no big deal if you did the work yourself. But you probably wouldn't want put them on a family members truck who lives in a different city. That's all I'm getting at.

Do the retrofit upgrade. Check TRS out on Facebook for the black Friday discount code.

Brian is right on, you only retro your own vehicle, so when something does go wrong you can fix it having had the experience of building it. Which is why I would never build and ship a retro mod to someone that expects a turnkey, bolt on experience.

One of the most common fails that would require disassembly aside from projector mount/aim is probably solenoid fail - which means disassemble and warranty. Shrouds can be reglued but a failed solenoid is game over high beam. Mine was a burnout due to water-related short circuit. I bought replacement parts on Amazon faster than DDM handled the warranty. I protected against that and it hasn't happened again. Having a spare harness, bulbs and connectors on hand isn't a bad idea either.

In retrospect, it would make sense to me now to have a spare pair of complete stock headlights on the shelf in case your retros fail - that at least is an easy swap back.

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[TonyB66]

Thanks Brian, and you also Mike. I will strongly consider this option.

As of now, with the wife and kids gone for a few hours, I'm a little bummed as I thought I had purchased undiluted coolant. Damn, it's 50/50, which I never buy. Scrambling to find some undiluted now...

Checking with dealerships, but none are picking-up. I found some Asian concentrate locally, but not sure if I can or should mix that with the Toyota red...

Along with the flush and new radiator, I'm planning to replace the t-stat and upper & lower hoses...

 

[octanejunkie]

My experience is you can mix them, but why not just get the zerex 50/50 and call it a day after a flush?

You gotta get all the green out, so make sure to run it through the heater core too.

May fortune be in your favor

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[TonyB66]

My experience is you can mix them, but why not just get the zerex 50/50 and call it a day after a flush?

You gotta get all the green out, so make sure to run it through the heater core too.

May fortune be in your favor

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There will be about 1.5 quarts remaining in the system, which will be distilled from the flush. So, I'd need to start by adding 1.5 quarts of concentrate, then I can the 50/50 mix I mistakenly purchased.

Found a dealership that has the concentrate. 38 bucks and about 2 hours lost....

 

[octanejunkie]

I got my local dealer to price match the online price of $28 a jug, ymmv

Time lost to DIY Gremlins are a right of passage.

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[TonyB66]

I got my local dealer to price match the online price of $28 a jug, ymmv

Time lost to DIY Gremlins are a right of passage.

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Nope, they will not.... Thanks for letting me know though.

Wow, 17 bucks here:

https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-parts/toyota-red-toyota-antifreeze-coolant-1-gallon-002721llac01

$20 to my door, by Tuesday. Ok, change of plans. I can do my diffs and transfer case today...

EDIT / ADD: That's 20 bucks, just for shipping. Looks like right around 30 dollars delivered is the best I can find. I'm off next week...

 

[octanejunkie]

Just drive down to van nuys, I'll get you my hook up *wink*

Drive 30 mins and, engage 4WD for a good few miles, to heat up the fluids before changing them

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[TonyB66]

Just drive down to van nuys, I'll get you my hook up *wink*

Drive 30 mins and, engage 4WD for a good few miles, to heat up the fluids before changing them

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Is the multi-mode H4 just fine for this purpose?

Now I can't find my gear oil pump (again, wasn't planning on this today). I hope this will do the trick...