TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[theesotericone]

For a bathroom fan application, I still need to vent that most air externally though. Through the wall is not possible on this house. There are no gables...

If it's a hip/val you should still be able to go through the bird blocks then into the soffit. I've never had to vent a fart fan to the roof in any house I've done, including flat roofs.

 

[TonyB66]

Thank you both.

I installed two of these low-profile vents:

https://www.amazon.com/Broan-636-Roof-Vent-Only/dp/B000BQW6LE

The roof is not a high pitch, so space is quite tight at the eaves or soffit locations. Insulation is high too. Further, between the rafters are these vent extension to the soffits, so the insulation doesn't impinge on the fresh air flow. I think they are called rafter vents. Makes for zero space. Personally, I'm not keen on venting the moist air under the eaves anyways...

I have these roof vents right over the fans. The duct runs will be only 3 feet. There won't be any cooling of note over such short run. It's CA, and it's only somewhat cold 3 months of the year.... That all said, I have enough insulated 4" ducting for this project which I can use too, and likely will. I'll connect the ducting later. Wanted to get this done while I have some time off and no rain...

So, onto the Runner, about the only thing I did today was to measure what size piece of butyl I'll need to finish the top of the rear door (10.5" x 19"). These sheets are 19" long, so that worked-out well. I'll do a rubbing alcohol cleaning in the morning then find a way to get that top part in place...

 

[TonyB66]

Both rear doors, exterior panels, are sound-deadened. Quite happy how it turned-out. The other door did indeed go faster as I just flipped the template over and cut the butyl with scissor and Xacto knife...

I took nearly an hour cleaning each door. I went-through half a roll of paper towels, first with water, then rubbing alcohol. The roller is darn near a must. It's decently warm here, so having the butyl sheets in the sun works well. I still hit each one with a heat gun for about a minute before applying...

On the seams I put some 3M metal tape. I adhered very well.

Tomorrow I hope to have time to remove a front door panel and get started there...

 

[BrianSD_42]

At this point, I'm leaning toward no or very little sound-deadening to the interior panel.

Install looks good. I don't think you need to deaden the interior of the door or the plastic.

 

[TonyB66]

Install looks good. I don't think you need to deaden the interior of the door or the plastic.

Thanks Brian. I know some can get quite fanatical about this stuff; and I'd like to not go there, at least on this build.

Once I get the exterior panels done on all four doors I should have some remnant pieces of butyl. I might then strategically apply those on the interior sheetmetal around the speakers...

 

[TonyB66]

Got the front passenger door sound-deadened. I created a template again, so the driver door should go faster tomorrow. Can't wait until this is done. My hands and forearms are taking a beating on the sharp edges and stuff inside the door. It was dark when I finished, so no completed photo. One before...

The template seen here is for the bottom portion of the door, below the impact tube that runs front to rear. I didn't need a template for the portion above that as the remainder from the bottom pieces fit quite nicely above. That was pretty cool.

A couple questions...

For this small amp (Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack), is it fine to use factory power, or should I source power from the battery, or even an open fuse slot?

On the ground below the door I found this plastic piece. If from the 4Runner, does anyone know from where?

 

[infamousRNR]

Got the front passenger door sound-deadened. I created a template again,

On the ground below the door I found this plastic piece. If from the 4Runner, does anyone know from where?

That looks like a plastic clip that clips on to the door where the door panel fits onto. They seem to be placed closer to the tweeter where the window comes up.

This is a picture of the rear door but I believe that plastic clip piece lives on one of the front doors.. driver or shotgun.
.

 

[TonyB66]

Sean, thanks for chiming-in.

I think you are right. It was dark, but I'll take a look tomorrow.

Happy New Year to you, all others too!

 

[TonyB66]

As of yesterday afternoon, all four doors are sound-deadened (exterior sheetmetal). For those who wish to do the same, as provided earlier, this product provides enough material:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012B5EMGO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get the roller too.

I botched it yesterday though. While playing with the kids yesterday, I cut this butyl material with the template I created for the front passenger door. However, failed to flip the template over! Sucked. Took quite a bit more time to get the pieces I needed. I would have had one extra sheet of butyl too.

I had noticed that the driver side door panel was a bit loose on the hinge side. After removing it, I see why:

The piece that had snapped-off was still there thankfully. I had found the same on the passenger door too. I thought it might have been my doing from when I removed it, but I don't think so now. I plan to try some JB Weld, possibly later today. I hope that does the trick...

Power for the amp will come from the cabin's fuse block. Thanks [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION]. I have three open slots there, and will use an Add-A-Circuit. While I have a couple of these, still new in box, they are for the larger fuses. And, since I don't have any of these mini fuses, I ordered this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8HUTCW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hoping to install this system during the weekend. I need to run the 14 gauge wires, mount the cross-overs and figure-out the mounting of 6.5" speakers in the rear.

I still have not sourced that surround bezel piece I busted...

 

[TonyB66]

I just opened the boxes for the HU and amp. Not so sure I can complete the install this weekend....

The HU outputs audio, to the amp, via RCA female connectors. The amp has RCA to receive, but also female. I gather that's normal, but news to me. So, I need a four short male/male RCA connectors.

Looks like I also need a mic to use handsfree calling. Makes sense, but I didn't realize that until I saw the back of the unit...

I'd like to connect everything to the back of the HU that I plan to use, or even might use so I won't need to access it again. Assuming I can get a replacement surround bezel, I'd prefer to not have to remove it again, and risk breaking it.

Oh, as Mike pointed-out to me earlier, if I want the ability to retract the antenna while keeping the unit on, I'll need a switch of some type. Also, it seems that the diversity antenna is lost too with a new HU. So, these two items will do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Mda-B-Micro-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B00009UHRI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002EXF10/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Filling-up the Amazon cart again... Thanks for the help.

EDIT/ADD: To connect to the cross-overs, I need those type of connectors too... I should have opened these boxes earlier.

 

[octanejunkie]

I just opened the boxes for the HU and amp. Not so sure I can complete the install this weekend....

The HU outputs audio, to the amp, via RCA female connectors. The amp has RCA to receive, but also female. I gather that's normal, but news to me. So, I need a four short male/male RCA connectors.

Looks like I also need a mic to use handsfree calling. Makes sense, but I didn't realize that until I saw the back of the unit...

I'd like to connect everything to the back of the HU that I plan to use, or even might use so I won't need to access it again. Assuming I can get a replacement surround bezel, I'd prefer to not have to remove it again, and risk breaking it.

Oh, as Mike pointed-out to me earlier, if I want the ability to retract the antenna while keeping the unit on, I'll need a switch of some type. Also, it seems that the diversity antenna is lost too with a new HU. So, these two items will do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Mda-B-Micro-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B00009UHRI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002EXF10/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Filling-up the Amazon cart again... Thanks for the help.

EDIT/ADD: To connect to the cross-overs, I need those type of connectors too... I should have opened these boxes earlier.

Just call me Lol this is all easy

Your HU should have come with the mic, if not here's a link to the one I bought. They are pretty much universal 2.5mm plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019KPN9I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nFatAbVX1GN8H

Here are some RCAs for ya https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wGatAbQ0P7F9Q

 

[TonyB66]

Thanks Mike, and good speaking with you earlier.

I do indeed have a mic included, with the HU.

I found RCAs male/male in just 1.5' lengths too:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

As you noted in another thread, I'm going with this Y-splitter, which is even a couple bucks cheaper:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I97Y49I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A38N3TNH1N2LMX&psc=1

The two crossovers have screw-down terminals, so I need to get some type of spade connectors still. I'm leaning toward eyelets that will be less inclined to fall off... Much more variety with the typical U-shaped shape connectors though.

Looks like I can get this order by Friday for a possible weekend install.

 

[theesotericone]

The two crossovers have screw-down terminals, so I need to get some type of spade connectors still. I'm leaning toward eyelets that will be less inclined to fall off... Much more variety with the typical U-shaped shape connectors though.

Looks like I can get this order by Friday for a possible weekend install.

Just get spade connectors. No one in car audio or car electrical in general uses rings. Those screws on the crossovers will be plenty strong to hold the spades in place. Crimp them properly, screw them down, enjoy.

All my stuff to both my amps and my blue sea box is connected with spades. I've yet to have a failure and I can be pretty hard on my rig. lol

 

[TonyB66]

Just get spade connectors. No one in car audio or car electrical in general uses rings. Those screws on the crossovers will be plenty strong to hold the spades in place. Crimp them properly, screw them down, enjoy.

All my stuff to both my amps and my blue sea box is connected with spades. I've yet to have a failure and I can be pretty hard on my rig. lol

Great to hear. Will find some now and add those to the order. Need to make sure they fit the provided slot (not too wide)...

 

[octanejunkie]

Great to hear. Will find some now and add those to the order. Need to make sure they fit the provided slot (not too wide)...

Spade terminals are typically made for terminal block type connections and are narrower than ring terminals for the same gauge screw

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[TonyB66]

Spade terminals are typically made for terminal block type connections and are narrower than ring terminals for the same gauge screw

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Thanks Mike. Much of what I'm finding for supposed audio applications is too wide here for the crossover. I see the usual stuff that one can get at the local hardware store, which I have at home already...

I'm sure that is fine, but figured I'd look to see if there is anything specific to use here...

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks Mike. Much of what I'm finding for supposed audio applications is too wide here for the crossover. I see the usual stuff that one can get at the local hardware store, which I have at home already...

I'm sure that is fine, but figured I'd look to see if there is anything specific to use here...

Gold plated for audio

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[TonyB66]

Gold plated for audio

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

And that's what I've been looking for, ideally a crimp, for 14 gauge, and something narrow enough (most over 1/2" wide).

As far as I can tell, the value add with the gold-plating is for corrosion and oxidation prevention. Important in a damp environment, like inside a car door...

But then the connectors on the speakers themselves should also be gold-plated, this type:

I think I saw those gold-plated before, but I'm not seeing those either...

 

[octanejunkie]

Also, it seems that the diversity antenna is lost too with a new HU. So, these two items will do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Mda-B-Micro-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B00009UHRI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002EXF10/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Filling-up the Amazon cart again.

I actually returned that Metra Y adapter you linked and went with the XCsource $8 one. It works great.

 

[BrianSD_42]

as Mike pointed-out to me earlier, if I want the ability to retract the antenna while keeping the unit on, I'll need a switch of some type

My antenna retracts just fine while the HU stays on. When the head unit is on radio the antenna goes up. Any other time such as when on AUX the antenna stays down but the radio works.

In the past I had installed a Kenwood HU and the antenna seemed to stay always on with any HU power but every Alpine HU I've tried (4 now) has worked just fine and proper.