TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[octanejunkie]

With the grille off, I thought I'd look into addtional turn signal options, making use of that space below the headlights.

I realize of course SRQ Fabrications has a very neat offering. With a 2+ week wait, 100 or so bucks, I'm thinking something like this for 10 bucks or less...

10 pack:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...c_title_dp_4?ie=UTF8&smid=A1B2SF9J2WBIQS&th=1

I imagine the SRQ product uses something like these.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...c_title_dp_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9B93WR44O7HV

I'd have eight extra, for the 4Runner or trailer...

I'll take two if you're parting out lol

I did a sub-headlamp LED strip and that I tied in to run as DRLs along with my halos per this https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2589737-post18496.html
Shown in action here lol

They were great until a few of the LEDs in the strip stopped working and it looked stupid

So I pulled them off and put my stock filler panels back on.

FWIW I didn't sacrifice my factory filler panels, I got these off amzon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GE2YVO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_lFIlCbD4ZT4NY and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GD2BXQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CGIlCbF8JH8MH

Depending on your choice of aftermarket bumper, adding turn signals under the head lamps might be a good call. The turn signals on my ARB bumper are smaller than stock, and while they may be legal, they are less visible/conspicuous to other drivers.

I would also like to improve my turn signal visibility. In experience, the weak spot on our 4runners for turn signal vis is from the side, hence my desire to make my now-orange marker lights flash along with my turn signals. I already added a "flasher out" when I installed my ARB, I just need to wire in the relays

Also I would LIKE your post but that function has apparently disappeared along with my sense self-worth and external validation

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks Mike. Happy New Year! Man, the same $4.25 Rustoleum flat black at THD that I've used on everything else, including the grille above...

Note, I first cleaned up the welds and bare metal with rubbing alcohol, then used an etching primer, lightly sanded, cleaned again, then paint...

Cool, thanks

What's your concern with bypassing? The only one that I have is that the ATF can be too cool possibly... I most recently read this massive thread.

B&M 70268 SuperCooler Transmission Cooler Install on a 3rd Gen

I read that thread a while back too.

I'm not going to pontificate or argue, but if motorcycles went from being air-cooled to water-cooled, and every gas-powered consumer car company combines the trans cooler with the radiator, there has to be a good reason. It is my opinion that the pink milkshake is an anomaly that occurs due to neglect or other cause; it is avoidable not inevitable.

 

[T4topher]

With the grille off, I thought I'd look into addtional turn signal options, making use of that space below the headlights.

I realize of course SRQ Fabrications has a very neat offering. With a 2+ week wait, 100 or so bucks, I'm thinking something like this for 10 bucks or less...

10 pack:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...c_title_dp_4?ie=UTF8&smid=A1B2SF9J2WBIQS&th=1

I imagine the SRQ product uses something like these.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...c_title_dp_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9B93WR44O7HV

More holes to drill, wires to consolidate and connect...

The first light choice is rated IP67, easier to install and replace when needed, so that is the lean. I'd have eight extra, for the 4Runner or trailer...

Check this one out I was going to get a couple of these to put in my grill but not sure if I want much more lights lol..

Kawell 18W 7.5" DC 9-32V 3000K 1200LM 60 Degree LED Amber Light for ATV Jeep Boat SUV Truck car 4x4 Amber Fog Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFZO94G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZjKlCb94MHSBN

 

[TonyB66]

Check this one out I was going to get a couple of these to put in my grill but not sure if I want much more lights lol..

Kawell 18W 7.5" DC 9-32V 3000K 1200LM 60 Degree LED Amber Light for ATV Jeep Boat SUV Truck car 4x4 Amber Fog Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFZO94G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZjKlCb94MHSBN

Holy moly. 18 watts, 1,200 lumens for turn signals?! As a few commented on that Amazon link, that type of brightness is apt to be problematic. While I'm going to pass now, there might be another application for those elsewhere. Also, at 1.7" wide or high in this orientation, it will not fit on that plate which is about 1.5"... Either way, nice find. Not sure why that didn't turn-up in my search though...

Hey, speaking of lighting, as I start drawing-up how I want my various lights to function (parking, turn signal, both, etc), what are you using for connectors?

 

[T4topher]

Holy moly. 18 watts, 1,200 lumens for turn signals?! As a few commented on that Amazon link, that type of brightness is apt to be problematic. While I'm going to pass now, there might be another application for those elsewhere. Also, at 1.7" wide or high in this orientation, it will not fit on that plate which is about 1.5"... Either way, nice find. Not sure why that didn't turn-up in my search though...

Hey, speaking of lighting, as I start drawing-up how I want my various lights to function (parking, turn signal, both, etc), what are you using for connectors?

These are what I’m using as connectors, they are cool. I found some better ones but lost the link for them. These work fine though. Edit: the name of the other “better” connectors is deutsch, can’t find the link though

MUYI 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector 1.5mm Series Terminals Heat Shrink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IU2EE2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o4KlCbTTT4929

Then I got this tool to crimp the connectors on the wire.

IWISS Weather pack Crimper Tools for Crimping Delphi Packard Weather pack Terminals or Metri-Pack Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KFLY43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_toLlCb47TF6NV

Let me know if you want a pic of one that’s installed already.

 

[TonyB66]

I'll take two if you're parting out lol

I did a sub-headlamp LED strip and that I tied in to run as DRLs along with my halos per this https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2589737-post18496.html

They were great until a few of the LEDs in the strip stopped working and it looked stupid. FWIW I didn't sacrifice my factory filler panels, I got these off amzon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GE2YVO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_lFIlCbD4ZT4NY and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GD2BXQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CGIlCbF8JH8MH

Depending on your choice of aftermarket bumper, adding turn signals under the head lamps might be a good call. The turn signals on my ARB bumper are smaller than stock, and while they may be legal, they are less visible/conspicuous to other drivers.

I would also like to improve my turn signal visibility. In experience, the weak spot on our 4runners for turn signal vis is from the side, hence my desire to make my now-orange marker lights flash along with my turn signals. I already added a "flasher out" when I installed my ARB, I just need to wire in the relays

Also I would LIKE your post but that function has apparently disappeared along with my sense self-worth and external validation

Mike, just saw your two posts. Not sure why I wasn't notified...

Make your way up here, and I'll gladly give you a pair of those lights! I also saved those patterns for you too, the ones I created for the butyl on the door interiors. Just found those recently and remembered that I set them aside for you...

I've read a fair amount about individual LEDs failing in some lights. I'd discard them too... That's one of the reasons I went with the ones I selected. From the reviews, they seem to not have this problem; and if so, at a buck each, and box of them on the shelf...

Thanks for the link on the filler panels. I didn't know that such existed! I will order a set. That said, I will proceed with the ones I have and keep the amazon ones for back-ups or other experimentation.

Hey, did you see what Charlie [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] did with his lights? He even created a video. See this post a few pages back...

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3192278-post517.html

A few posts earlier he provided these instructions:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3191602-post510.html

I'm seriously considering this or something like it.. I'll check-out the link you provided too.

Oh, it seems that the Like feature has been moved, now on the left side by the poster's name?

 

[TonyB66]

These are what I’m using as connectors, they are cool. I found some better ones but lost the link for them. These work fine though. Edit: the name of the other “better” connectors is deutsch, can’t find the link though

MUYI 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector 1.5mm Series Terminals Heat Shrink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IU2EE2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o4KlCbTTT4929

Then I got this tool to crimp the connectors on the wire.

IWISS Weather pack Crimper Tools for Crimping Delphi Packard Weather pack Terminals or Metri-Pack Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KFLY43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_toLlCb47TF6NV

Let me know if you want a pic of one that’s installed already.

Thanks.

Same seller (MUYI), but with leads is what I was looking at earlier:

https://smile.amazon.com/MUYI-Water...ywords=waterproof+electrical+connectors&psc=1

16 gauge though... I think our wires are more like 22g. Hmmm...

Are there connectors that are, for example, two pins in (hot & ground), and four pins out, two each hot and ground, essentially a splitter? I can see how that can be useful. Maybe my search terms are the issue.

 

[T4topher]

Thanks.

Same seller (MUYI), but with leads is what I was looking at earlier:

https://smile.amazon.com/MUYI-Water...ywords=waterproof+electrical+connectors&psc=1

16 gauge though... I think our wires are more like 22g. Hmmm...

Are there connectors that are, for example, two pins in (hot & ground), and four pins out, two each hot and ground, essentially a splitter? I can see how that can be useful. Maybe my search terms are the issue.

Yea those look fine, that I have no idea on man sorry.. like basically have 2 wires going into a 4 pin connector? (2 hots/2 grounds from 1 wire each)?

 

[TonyB66]

Yea those look fine, that I have no idea on man sorry.. like basically have 2 wires going into a 4 pin connector? (2 hots/2 grounds from 1 wire each)?

Sorry, I have a bit more time now and will try to be more clear.

As examples, our corner running/parking lights are two wires and our turn signals are two wires (+ and -). If I were to let's say snip the two wires going to the turn signal light, is there a connector that I could then attach those two wires, allowing me to have two pairs coming out, each to its own turn signal?

 

[octanejunkie]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION]

I run headlights/foglights with good beam patterns and cutoffs, set correctly (for seeing) - and (at least on the 4Runner) run bright marker lights and extra turn signals for being seen (controlled amount of light outside the normal headlight beams).

Ditto

 

[octanejunkie]

Sorry, I have a bit more time now and will try to be more clear.

As examples, our corner running/parking lights are two wires and our turn signals are two wires (+ and -). If I were to let's say snip the two wires going to the turn signal light, is there a connector that I could then attach those two wires, allowing me to have two pairs coming out, each to its own turn signal?

You can make your own harness/junctions using water tight connections from any number of sources, I did

In reality, however, you may not need water tight connectors if you are only switching one of two wires to a bulb. This is why I made my halos negative switched vs positive switched. The positive connections are full time, water tight and heatshrunk, the negative runs through a relay. Not always possible but when it is, it's nice.

 

[TonyB66]

You can make your own harness/junctions using water tight connections from any number of sources, I did

In reality, however, you may not need water tight connectors if you are only switching one of two wires to a bulb. This is why I made my halos negative switched vs positive switched. The positive connections are full time, water tight and heatshrunk, the negative runs through a relay. Not always possible but when it is, it's nice.

Thanks Mike. Maybe something like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/SING-LTD-W...1&keywords=electrical+connector+junction&th=1

 

[T4topher]

Sorry, I have a bit more time now and will try to be more clear.

As examples, our corner running/parking lights are two wires and our turn signals are two wires (+ and -). If I were to let's say snip the two wires going to the turn signal light, is there a connector that I could then attach those two wires, allowing me to have two pairs coming out, each to its own turn signal?

Basically your trying to turn one wire into two or three wires right? I’m sure they make specific connectors for that but I’d have no idea what to search for haha.. if it were me and I needed to do that I would put two wires into one crimp. Im probably going to end up doing that for my rigid rock lights actually.

Edit: now that I really think about it I’ll just have a connector for each rock light and then solder the wires together to make one directly after the connectors..

 

[TonyB66]

Basically your trying to turn one wire into two or three wires right? I’m sure they make specific connectors for that but I’d have no idea what to search for haha.. if it were me and I needed to do that I would put two wires into one crimp that way you make 2 connections out of 1.. probably going to end up doing that for my rigid rock lights actually.

You got the gist of it. But unlike a crimp, I want the ability to disco, so some kind release mechanism, or as in the j box provided earlier, pop it open and remove what I want. I've taken that approach on home wiring projects...

I'm currently thinking of such a box for running/parking lights, and one for turn signals. As an example, if I want to add another turn signal, just loosen two screw insert, and tighten...

 

[T4topher]

You got the gist of it. But unlike a crimp, I want the ability to disco, so some kind release mechanism, or as in the j box provided earlier, pop it open and remove what I want. I've taken that approach on home wiring projects...

I'm currently thinking of such a box for running/parking lights, and one for turn signals. As an example, if I want to add another turn signal, just loosen two screw insert, and tighten...

Ohh I see, well there is a power bar that came with my rigid rock lights to hook each one onto and it kinda makes it so you can add/subtract as many as you want very easily.. I’ll take a pic of it tonight for you.

Edit: It’s basically like a fuse box without fuses in a sense..

 

[TonyB66]

Ohh I see, well there is a power bar that came with my rigid rock lights to hook each one onto and it kinda makes it so you can add/subtract as many as you want very easily.. I’ll take a pic of it tonight for you.

Edit: It’s basically like a fuse box without fuses in a sense..

You got it.

With this one, I'd need one box for each side of the truck. It's small, about 2x3"....

https://smile.amazon.com/CNBTR-Wate...JHH7NQH6FYDF&refRID=FRXFJQKQJHH7NQH6FYDF&th=1

Hot and ground for each, running lights and turn signals. I'd feed those four input wires through one of the three ports. Of the two other ports, one will output running light pairs, and the other port, turn signal pairs.

 

[T4topher]

You got it.

With this one, I'd need one box for each side of the truck. It's small, about 2x3"....

https://smile.amazon.com/CNBTR-Wate...JHH7NQH6FYDF&refRID=FRXFJQKQJHH7NQH6FYDF&th=1

Hot and ground for each, running lights and turn signals. I'd feed those four input wires through one of the three ports. Of the two other ports, one will output running light pairs, and the other port, turn signal pairs.

After looking more closely I guess it is just a small fuse block. Might actually be a good idea to do it like this anyway that way if something on one line gets messed up you’ll know which line it is by the fuses. All the grounds have ring connectors and just go to a bolt.

 

[BrianSD_42]

But unlike a crimp, I want the ability to disco

You could also use connector spades from AutoZone, NAPA or similar. You can easily combine simple 12 or 14 gauge electrical wire with a crimping pipe connector to merge 2 or 3 wires and then on end of each wire attach a spade connector. Do this to create a 'Y' splitting cable, one for (+) and one for (-). This is removable and you can simply seal with electrical tape or wire weather sealing sleeves making it simple and clean.

allowing me to have two pairs coming out, each to its own turn signal?

If I understand this correct you want to light up two left lights when turning left instead or one light? Then yes a parallel split should work. The downside of that fuse block is it is 1000x overkill for this purpose vs a custom Y wire. I say this because there is so little current going through the turn signal and corner lights. You can tell this by looking at just how small the factory +/- wires are. Toyota designed them based on current flow and it is a circuit that only powers a light bulb, plus if you use LED then the current will probably be 1/10 of stock flowing through that wire anyways. Just a few thoughts to consider.
.

 

[TonyB66]

Thanks guys. Still some goofy stuff going-on with the forum...

What I provided earlier is more of a terminal block than a fuse block, but same branching concept.

After reading the reviews, it seems that these are not ideal for stranded wire. Damn. I won't get it.

I hear ya Brian on the overkill. I do like the idea of all those relevant connections in one tidy box, free of the elements and that I can label.

I have a pretty good assortment of spade connectors and unless I find an ideal box, that's the route I'll likely go. The spades will be removable, but if let's say I wanted to add a 3rd parking/running light, I'd need to snip-off that connector that has two and crimp another spade to get the 3rd one connected. No biggie. The appeal with having a post is that lights can added and removed with the nut or screw...

I really appreciate the feedback.

 

[BrianSD_42]

One more thought on creating a custom Y (like) cable with spades on each end ..... You can simply create a (+) cable that goes from 1 to 3 instead of 1 to 2 split. Then leave one unused and tape it off. That way down the road you can connect something without creating a new cable. I had these type of hand made 2 to 1 cable split for my corner lights, I tapped the wires right inside the corner light fender well. Not a lot of room to safely mount anything heavy in there (like a box) but plenty of room for a small 3-4" cable.

Eventually though I walked away from it all and decided that I my LEDs would be powered by a hand switch, restored the corner lights to their purpose and got a BlueSea fuse box for all aux non-factory lighting to avoid electrical demons. Each light circuit has its own fuse and all running through the fuse box. Corner lights back to OEM circuit.

Best of luck with the project!
.