TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[theesotericone]

Matt, thanks for chiming-in. Nice to see you around here.

If you had to beat the pinch weld on F with 33's, which I'm not averse to doing at some point, I think it best to stay on G now. I honestly considered telling my family that I'd miss movie night to get this thing on F and wake up early tomorrow before the appointment...

Hoping to see 1.7+ tomorrow. If so, and if driving confirms, I'll be a happy camper.



G would be plenty of cushion on 32s, from what I've read. Likely F too...

Packed my 22mm wrench for the cam bolts (approx 100 ft-lbs), breaker bar and torque wrench with 1 1/4" socket for the SPC UCAs (doing 170 ft-lbs). I'm anal and will torque myself before I drive home.

I still check in every day. I've been following your progress but you seem to have it well thought out so there's not much to say. Just move the SPC's to F if the shop can't get your caster where you want it. Don't sweat camber to much unless it's out of spec.

Thanks for carrying the build thread torch for those of us that need a break from the write-ups. lol

 

[TonyB66]

I still check in every day. I've been following your progress but you seem to have it well thought out so there's not much to say. Just move the SPC's to F if the shop can't get your caster where you want it. Don't sweat camber to much unless it's out of spec.

Thanks for carrying the build thread torch for those of us that need a break from the write-ups. lol

I like that approach. They are well-versed on the SPC UCAs, so if caster is not adequate, we'll go to F.

I like build threads such as yours much more Matt as you actually use your rig! Things get broken and built again, ideally better from lessons learned. And you have cool stories and scenic shots along the way. I hope to get there...

With a wife and little ones, not sure to what extent that will happen, but it will. Honestly, I've been on the brink of getting an FJ40, I think because I had some darn fun times in a couple of them back in the day. And after some reflection, I think that's the key reason though, back in the day (in my 20s, single, no kids), not so much the FJ40 itself, although they are darn cool. With that, I likely won't get one...

Well, movie night here, and I found something called "Red Dog"!

 

[TonyB66]

Well, I'm back. Had my notes, SPC UCA instructions, and tools, all for not. A preliminary check for play was concerning to the point that they recommended not doing the alignment. Notable play was detected on the driver's side. It was initially felt to be the tie rods. I explained that those, inner and outers, are new (installed with Timmy). They cut the inner boot clamp, removed the outer one, and slid the boot down and found it plenty tight. Further inspection found it to be the rack. So, no alignment today.

I'm going to start searching in a bit, but if anyone has a good source for a new OEM rack, let me know... I'll check the usual places. They recommended Rock Auto.

I got some shots up on the lift.

Well off to read threads on steering racks, watch Tim's video...

 

[theesotericone]

Further inspection found it to be the rack. So, no alignment today.

Have you replaced the LCA bushings already? They also allow a lot of slop in the system. Since your doing the rack I'd also do the LCA bushings if you haven't already. It's a pretty easy job as long as your cam adjuster sleeves come out.

 

[TonyB66]

Have you replaced the LCA bushings already? They also allow a lot of slop in the system. Since your doing the rack I'd also do the LCA bushings if you haven't already. It's a pretty easy job as long as your cam adjuster sleeves come out.

Thanks Matt. Yes, I did the LCA bushings, pretty much most/all bushings of note, I believe...

You probably recommend the OEM rack? Do they sell them without the inner tie rods, without bushings? I have new tie rods (a few hundred miles on them) and new aftermkt bushings on my current rack...

 

[Mark_BC]

It could just be the rack guide

 

[TonyB66]

It could just be the rack guide

Thanks Mark. I was about to watch Tim's video. Would a failed guide, or it being loose, make for play in the wheel?

I found this on another forum, so maybe that's all that will be needed...

'98 4Runner Steering Issues: New Rack or ITRE's and Rack Bushings? | IH8MUD Forum

 

[TonyB66]

Remembered that I took a couple short vids.

YouTube

YouTube

 

[octanejunkie]

Sucks Tony. Sorry to hear that.

Worn rack guide/bushings could be a source of play for sure.

If you end up replacing the rack and are double stocked on tie rods I can relieve you of your slightly used ones, those are on my order horizon.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[TonyB66]

Sucks Tony. Sorry to hear that.

Worn rack guide/bushings could be a source of play for sure.

If you end up replacing the rack and are double stocked on tie rods I can relieve you of your slightly used ones, those are on my order horizon.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Thanks Mike. Wish I knew the innards better... If the guide, would both ends demonstrate play? I don't know...

I have the driver side elevated now (pass tire on ground), and I can replicate the play. Just removed the front skid, then the next one down, and I'll have access to that guide.

My current thinking.... Snug it up to see if it makes any difference. If so, I'll order a new guide. If not, I suppose I'll need a new rack.

 

[RotaryDreamz]

Sorry it didnt work out for you today, Tony. When I first got my new tires, I took it to them for a quick alignment and they refused to align my truck for the same reason. I was lucky, it turned out to be just my LCA bushings.

That's when I decided to go all out, and changed all my bushings front and back, ordered the SPC's, rebuilt my CV's with boot stretch, lower ball joints and inner/outer tie rods.

It will all work out for you in the end. You'll be hitting Hollister hills in no time. Auto projects are never ending. Or though it always seems to be that way for me. Haha.

 

[TonyB66]

Sorry it didnt work out for you today, Tony. When I first got my new tires, I took it to them for a quick alignment and they refused to align my truck for the same reason. I was lucky, it turned out to be just my LCA bushings.

That's when I decided to go all out, and changed all my bushings front and back, ordered the SPC's, rebuilt my CV's with boot stretch, lower ball joints and inner/outer tie rods.

It will all work out for you in the end. You'll be hitting Hollister hills in no time. Auto projects are never ending. Or though it always seems to be that way for me. Haha.

Sean, my apologies as I didn't have time to respond to your PM this morning...

Honestly, I did all of that stuff before today, forecasting just as you explained, to avoid such. LBJs, the SPC UCAs, inner and outer tie rods, new shocks/coilovers/springs, diff drop, bushings galore too... Didn't do the CV boot stretch, but that's on the list!

Ok, some good news. I backed-off that nut enough to tightened the guide "nut", and it was pretty loose. I turned it a little, and it made a difference! I turned a bit more, and it's pretty snug now. Hopefully no ill effects on the steering wheel.

Unless anyone thinks otherwise, I sense that I'll be good with a new guide. I'll likely start shopping for a new rack soon though as that might be next to fail...

Need to wash-up and get the family out to dinner! Thanks again Sean.

 

[TonyB66]

It could just be the rack guide

And, I'm adding you to the beer list also Mark!

 

[RotaryDreamz]

No problem, Tony. Glad you found the source of the issue.

 

[theesotericone]

Hopefully no ill effects on the steering wheel.

If you tighten the rack guide to much steering will not return to center properly. Since you just lifted your caster is probably off towards the low side anyway. That also caused steering to not want to return to center.

Test drive it. Tighten. Test drive. Tighten. As soon as your steering stops returning smoothly to center back it off a 1/16th of a turn and take it in for an alignment. Then when you get the new guide at least you know your caster won't be the return to center issue.

 

[TonyB66]

If you tighten the rack guide to much steering will not return to center properly. Since you just lifted your caster is probably off towards the low side anyway. That also caused steering to not want to return to center.

Test drive it. Tighten. Test drive. Tighten. As soon as your steering stops returning smoothly to center back it off a 1/16th of a turn and take it in for an alignment. Then when you get the new guide at least you know your caster won't be the return to center issue.

Seems like a better approach than the 18 ft-lbs, then back it off 19 or so degrees...
[MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION], it has been a couple years... Any complaints or issues with the newer steering rack guide you installed with Timmy?

 

[JZiggy]

Seems like a better approach than the 18 ft-lbs, then back it off 19 or so degrees...

[MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION], it has been a couple years... Any complaints or issues with the newer steering rack guide you installed with Timmy?

None at all. Steering is smooth and easy without slack.

 

[TonyB66]

None at all. Steering is smooth and easy without slack.

Good deal JZ, thanks! I'll spend some time shopping for a deal, and likely order those four items soon...

With my wife and youngest leaving next Saturday for a 5 week trip abroad, this was our last weekend together as a family until mid-July, so no work done on the 4Runner. I did drive it a couple minutes to check the steering return, and it's still there, not ideal, but there. Might be due more to the lack of caster than the guide being too tight...

Before I forget, I weighed this new wheel/tire set-up at 75 lbs. I'm guessing that's a pretty light for "33s". These 17x 8.5" wheels are listed at 21+ lbs, and the 285/70 tires at 51 lbs. The aged stock set-up (much tread gone) weigh 58 lbs.

My trip to the alignment shop still shows mileage in the 15s, which is what I typically see on such trips, like to San Jose. The SG2 reads low, and actual mileage is better, how much I can't say these days.

Next up:

Get and install the steering rack guide
Get that alignment
Install weatherproof electrical connectors on those fog lights, button-up wires
Make connections for both running lights, one those angel eyes
Fab bracket for winch control box and secure it
Fab brackets for off road dust/fog lights (Baja Designs, wide cornering, amber)
Mount off road Baja Designs, wide cornering, amber lights
Mount switch box under driver seat, run two hots leads to it from fuse box (add-a-circuits)
Connect both Baja Designs lights (wide cornering and driving/combo) to sw box

So, a fair amount of electrical in the near future...

 

[phattyduck]

My trip to the alignment shop still shows mileage in the 15s, which is what I typically see on such trips, like to San Jose. The SC2 reads low, and actual mileage is better, how much I can't say these days.

MPG on the ScanGauge II can be calibrated. I'm normally within a few tenth's of a gallon per fillup (calculated vs. actual fuel used).

-Charlie

PS. Those are the exact 4 gauges I have my ScanGauge show. :cowboy:

 

[TonyB66]

MPG on the ScanGauge II can be calibrated. I'm normally within a few tenth's of a gallon per fillup (calculated vs. actual fuel used).

-Charlie

PS. Those are the exact 4 gauges I have my ScanGauge show. :cowboy:

Thanks Charlie. I hadn't made the time to calibrate the SG2's mpg. I made such adjustments on my MINI several years ago, and it became pretty darn accurate to where I didn't need to adjust at fill-up. I forgot how to do so, but that's on the "list" at some point...

The same four gauges, but in the same order though?

Got the steering rack guide parts ordered last night and I should have a tracking number soon...