ChaseRunner
New member
I used to tow a trailer that heavy with my Dodge Diesel and would get 8-9 mpg.
Towing experiences with your 5th Generation
- Thread starter dsir56
- Start date
I used to tow a trailer that heavy with my Dodge Diesel and would get 8-9 mpg.
ChaseRunner
New member
Rigel4Runner
Member
mountainair26
New member
At what point do most people consider installing a transmission cooler? It looks like some decent ones are available on amazon for ~$50, but I'd probably take it to a professional for the install, which I'm guessing is somewhere between $150-250. I only tow about 1000lbs periodically, and not many hills here in Louisiana. My 2010 v6 has 140k and drives great without any hardshifts, but from a longevity standpoint vs. lower trans temps when towing heaving, will adding a cooler increase the life of the tranny assuming its in good shape already? Just trying to see if the bang for the buck is there in terms of extending tranny life more than increasing towing ability. Thanks
TEN613RPro
New member
Generally yes, but without a temp gauge you're flying blind.
eliminator
New member
I'm about to pull the trigger on a new Winnebago Micro Mini TT and torn between two options. My heart says go big (2100BH), but my brain says go for the lighter option (1700BH). Thoughts? Does pulling a dual axle trailer promote more stability?
2015 Trail, bone stock, planning to run P3 brake controller, WDH, and probably bags in the rear.
Option-1:
1700BH, 3010# dry, 380# @ hitch, single axle
Option-2:
2100BH, 3760# dry, 430# @ hitch, dual axle
***Planning to drive no more than 200miles per day, mostly in flatter regions with slight rolling hills.
2015 Trail, bone stock, planning to run P3 brake controller, WDH, and probably bags in the rear.
Option-1:
1700BH, 3010# dry, 380# @ hitch, single axle
Option-2:
2100BH, 3760# dry, 430# @ hitch, dual axle
***Planning to drive no more than 200miles per day, mostly in flatter regions with slight rolling hills.
Titanpat57
Senior Member
Double axle far more stable if anything gets wonky...do yourself a favor and plan on bags
WVhillbilly
Member
Has anyone found that the airbags hurt your articulation, even when aired down?
I on the fence about airbags, but actually off road this thing once in a while and have seen reviews saying that the airbags made the rear stiff even with 5psi in them.
I've used airbags before, but only on trucks. They weren't very flexy to begin with, or used off road very much.
I on the fence about airbags, but actually off road this thing once in a while and have seen reviews saying that the airbags made the rear stiff even with 5psi in them.
I've used airbags before, but only on trucks. They weren't very flexy to begin with, or used off road very much.
Jetboy
New member
There are a few ways to plumb them. If they share a single air line with a "t" in it - the air will transfer side to side in slow articulation. But it will also do that cornering with your trailer.
My experience is that they work well with a lot of weight in the back offroad and act like extended bump stops at low pressure. They suck when it's empty for ride quality. For rock crawling they can help just to bump them up to a high pressure for extra ground clearance.
It's a mixed bag IMO. Some things are good, some are bad. Just depends on what your use is and what tradeoffs you want to make. Fortunately the cost of entry is pretty low to give it a try.
I really want something else like a convoluted air spring or a bellows type that is not inside the coil that can be retracted when not in use. I just haven't gotten around to building it yet.
WVhillbilly
Member
I found a set for $81. Seems cheap enough.
I'll plumb them single line. I don't have a lot of sag now, just about level.
And the ride is still good while towing, but we camp pretty light.
I know that the ride off road is great, and I hate to ruin it.
I'll plumb them single line. I don't have a lot of sag now, just about level.
And the ride is still good while towing, but we camp pretty light.
I know that the ride off road is great, and I hate to ruin it.
Titanpat57 - go big and you won't regret. I have towed a tandem Rockwood Minilite 2306 (4121lbs) for 4 years and never a problem over 1000's of miles in the PNW. It's slow no more than 65mph but not particularly thirsty - I have never seen less than 11 mpg. I have extra tranny cooler fitted that even up the steepest hills keeps temperature below 210 or so, Firestone airbags set at 25psi for towing and a WDH. Here are my scale numbers which is fully loaded - 4 adults, dog and all the stuff:
Toyota Max. Leavenworth 2017 Astoria 2018
Front 2998 2557 2469
Rear 3439 3682 3571
Trailer 4700 4121 4387
GVWR 6100 6239 6040
GAWR 6437 6239 6040
GCWR 11300 10360 10427
so can't quite enough of the rear axle to the front but it's only a couple of hundred pounds off and most importantly the GCWR is at least 1000 to the good,
Toyota Max. Leavenworth 2017 Astoria 2018
Front 2998 2557 2469
Rear 3439 3682 3571
Trailer 4700 4121 4387
GVWR 6100 6239 6040
GAWR 6437 6239 6040
GCWR 11300 10360 10427
so can't quite enough of the rear axle to the front but it's only a couple of hundred pounds off and most importantly the GCWR is at least 1000 to the good,
Jetboy - hate the airbags when there is nothing in the truck or I'm not towing - the ride becomes really bouncy and choppy even at 5 psi - I take mine down to close to zero when not needed. But when there is a full load or towing airbags stop the droop and stop the sway a lot going around corners
AdventureMan
New member
I was also on the fence about using air bags to mitigate rear loading while towing because I also use my 4Runner off road, didn't want to have to worry about the reliability of devices with air lines, and wasn't completely comfortable with cutting out the secondary rubber springs/cones inside the rear coil springs to use the air bags. But I knew I needed some kind of load helper when towing. So I decided to try the "solid state" approach by using Timbren bump stops in the rear, but picked the softer "Active Off-Road" version as some reviewers felt the SES Bump Stops were too harsh.
These are basically rubber helper springs that bolt in place of the outboard frame bump stops. They don't engage when the rear is unloaded, but start to come into play when the rear is loaded down more than an inch. I've used this setup to tow a 3800 lb. track car trailer rig, and it works great. They are also not nearly as progressive as air bags, which for off-roading is actually a good thing...
These are basically rubber helper springs that bolt in place of the outboard frame bump stops. They don't engage when the rear is unloaded, but start to come into play when the rear is loaded down more than an inch. I've used this setup to tow a 3800 lb. track car trailer rig, and it works great. They are also not nearly as progressive as air bags, which for off-roading is actually a good thing...
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Wdh?
Hi Simonpk,
I'm in the PNW as well I have a WDH too but have read that we aren't supposed to use it on the T4R due to the way the hitch is setup. It's not integrated into the frame and can cause damage over time. The owners manual mentions this as well. Anyway, I've only towed my trailer a few times and thought the WDH wouldn't hurt for short trips but have been wanting to go to air bags and ditch the WDH. It seems like you have a lot more experience and miles. Have you noticed any issues with your WDH?
Even with my WDH hitch my 4R sags pretty bad in the back so I need bags or additional help back there anyway.
Hi Simonpk,
I'm in the PNW as well I have a WDH too but have read that we aren't supposed to use it on the T4R due to the way the hitch is setup. It's not integrated into the frame and can cause damage over time. The owners manual mentions this as well. Anyway, I've only towed my trailer a few times and thought the WDH wouldn't hurt for short trips but have been wanting to go to air bags and ditch the WDH. It seems like you have a lot more experience and miles. Have you noticed any issues with your WDH?
Even with my WDH hitch my 4R sags pretty bad in the back so I need bags or additional help back there anyway.
Do yourself a favor and add air bags but keep the WDH. 5th gen (2016 here) is fine for a WDH. I contacted Toyota about this and they gave me the okay. I posted a copy of their email response... search posts by my user name. I personally think a good WDH with sway control like an Equalizer for a short wheelbase vehicle like ours is a critical piece of safety equipment.
Also, find a way to truly check you tongue weight; I did and surprised myself that I was well over my acceptable 500# limit. Redistributing load got me back to an acceptable level.
2016 SR5 with Firestone bags, stock springs, pulling an est. 3500# (wet) 19 ft TT.
My trailer is similar to your option A and I would NOT want anything bigger. It is all this platform can do to move that load up the mtn passes of CO, but that is at 10k-11k ft elevation, long steep grades for many miles. S2, 45mph, motor screaming the whole way. If you plan on any time in the Canadian Rockies, follow what your brain is telling you.
I'd suggest bags plus WDH as minimum equipment.
I too was worried about this but the benefits outweigh the drawbacks IMO and I really have not noticed them limiting articulation much if any, but I have stock shocks and springs with a 1.5" spacer out back so that is undoubtedly my limiting factor anyway, at least for drop. As [MENTION=118321]Jetboy[/MENTION] said, plumb them together with a T-fitting and that will help. My rear springs still being stock (OME are in the garage waiting to go in), I actually really appreciate being able to add some pressure to take some of the bottoming out away while off roading with typical camping gear in the back. Give them a try and report back. I don't particularly notice any negative ride behavior even when running empty. I did try them close to their max (35 psi) on one occurrence when we had 5 people, full week of camp gear, RTT, et al but did not make it but a couple blocks before I took some pressure out of them; felt extremely dangerous, like no rear suspension at all. I generally run mine about 10 psi empty, 25 psi loaded.
TEN613RPro
New member
Heed the advice of Off2mtns, it's real world advice. You generally are not as light as you think you are. Actual loaded weights are a must but far from convenient, if you live in or travel through Oregon on the secondary highways you can use the closed DOT scales for free, they never turn them off. These were my eye opening moments for me with my 7.3 excursion and a 30' travel trailer. What surprised me on my set-up was the drive axle weight on the ex, over max but under on the tongue weight limit. You start loading a suv with gear and people it will add up real fast. I re-sprung my ex to match an f250 then tossed my airbag set up. Using airbags for much more than getting your headlights pointed back to where they should be, is just a crutch for being too heavy.
Another consideration if you are running P tires or C's or D's check to make sure you are not exceeding the tire capacity for carrying extra load.
And don't forget the weight of fuel, from fill up to fill up I lose about 300 lbs in the ex, it holds 44 gallons all behind the rear axle. The 4r tank is between axles as you know which helps with these numbers.
Another consideration if you are running P tires or C's or D's check to make sure you are not exceeding the tire capacity for carrying extra load.
And don't forget the weight of fuel, from fill up to fill up I lose about 300 lbs in the ex, it holds 44 gallons all behind the rear axle. The 4r tank is between axles as you know which helps with these numbers.
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WVhillbilly
Member
I though an Excursion had F250 springs under it.
Most of the time when I see one these days it's dragging a 30ft bumper pull camper behind it.
Most of the time when I see one these days it's dragging a 30ft bumper pull camper behind it.
