Tracking down a rattle brought me to this

Another question. Do you think I should go ahead and install a B&M anyways, even though the I have a brand new radiator? Part of me wants to put one in just to be safe, and part of doesn't want to mess with it.
 
MStudt said:
Another question. Do you think I should go ahead and install a B&M anyways, even though the I have a brand new radiator? Part of me wants to put one in just to be safe, and part of doesn't want to mess with it.
Click to expand...

Personally I say yes. That way there is ZERO chance of the two fluids mixing together. I run the larger B&M and it gets balls-cold here in Nebraska in Winter, I've been fine. Run a hose loop to cap off the rad-attached TC, so if the membrane ever fails, you wont lose fluid.
 
tre9er said:
Personally I say yes. That way there is ZERO chance of the two fluids mixing together. I run the larger B&M and it gets balls-cold here in Nebraska in Winter, I've been fine. Run a hose loop to cap off the rad-attached TC, so if the membrane ever fails, you wont lose fluid.
Click to expand...

I'll most likely go ahead and do just to be safe. Plus in the event that I ever tow something it might be useful. Just need to figure out if I want to go with a B&M 70264 or 70268?
 
MStudt said:
Another question. Do you think I should go ahead and install a B&M anyways, even though the I have a brand new radiator? Part of me wants to put one in just to be safe, and part of doesn't want to mess with it.
Click to expand...

I've been watching both sides of that argument with interest. I'm leaning towards leaving it OEM and just replacing the rad every 100k.
 
Damn this sucks. Hopefully you are able to save it and if not maybe somebody on here will have a tranny for cheap. I replaced my radiator at 140k, have not done the cooler yet however so I am not sure which one you should go with.

Good luck and waiting for updates.
 
tre9er said:
Just curious, what's the argument for running it inline? I haven't seen much on that.
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Extra cooling is the rationale I've seen. I could see that for a modded motor or a truck doing lots of towing, but my wife's truck is neither of those things. I'll stick with OEM I think.
 
KidVermicious said:
Extra cooling is the rationale I've seen. I could see that for a modded motor or a truck doing lots of towing, but my wife's truck is neither of those things. I'll stick with OEM I think.
Click to expand...

I run the larger B&M and only occasionally tow. I bypassed the OEM TC. Should have thrown in a tranny temp sensor. Might do that later if we end up in NC like we hope. More hills there, might get a small camper.
 
Things seem to be doing alright. I can still feel a very minor clunk, but no slipping now. This was only on a short drive, so I'll be able to tell more tomorrow.
 
i put the B&M cooler in-line after the radiator and still manage to get some temp readings above 210 when it's working hard, i think running a B&M as the only trany cooling system is a horrible plan!!!

the external cooler has (if you get there biggest and best cooler) 1/3 third the cooling capacity of a good radiator.

I sa the radiator is a a good 100K maintenance item, like LBJ's are.
 
T4R2014 said:
I understand that as well and fully agree with you. It just seems as though many on the forum believe that this issue to be caused by a design flaw rather than age.
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I don't remember reading about this happening on the other years. I would say it is indeed a bad design.

Atrox Caeda said:
Oh... yea... I forgot that every engineer went through the class of functionality/time. Wherein you decide that if something fails sooner than projected its a problem, but if not, it's a wear part. The thing that was not taught in that class is the "catastrophic failure clause", wherein if a part has a simple, undetectable failure point, and that failure causes catastrophic failure to critical parts of the vehicle, it is in fact a POOR DESIGN.
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agreed.

MStudt said:
Another question. Do you think I should go ahead and install a B&M anyways, even though the I have a brand new radiator? Part of me wants to put one in just to be safe, and part of doesn't want to mess with it.
Click to expand...
yes, do it.

MStudt said:
I'll most likely go ahead and do just to be safe. Plus in the event that I ever tow something it might be useful. Just need to figure out if I want to go with a B&M 70264 or 70268?
Click to expand...
go with the largest that you can fit properly.

KidVermicious said:
Extra cooling is the rationale I've seen. I could see that for a modded motor or a truck doing lots of towing, but my wife's truck is neither of those things. I'll stick with OEM I think.
Click to expand...
I haven't pulled one of these apart, but have seen some others, the internal coolers are tiny. i cant see them making much difference, if using a large quality external cooler.
 
tyr0981 said:
i put the B&M cooler in-line after the radiator and still manage to get some temp readings above 210 when it's working hard, i think running a B&M as the only trany cooling system is a horrible plan!!!

the external cooler has (if you get there biggest and best cooler) 1/3 third the cooling capacity of a good radiator.

I say the radiator is a a good 100K maintenance item, like LBJ's are.
Click to expand...

The two are very different, one cools liquid-metal-liquid the other liquid-metal-air so yeah different BTU reduction for the equivalent size. But despite all that, anytime you hit above 205 degrees or so on a good hill and/or towing hit the override button, this will cool the trans down considerably. Luck everyone! :banana:
 
After a 35 mile drive to work this morning everything seems OK. The minor clunking that I felt last night is no longer present. Shifts smooth and no slipping.
 
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