Tyler James Inc's Ultimate '01 SR5

[StreetCreeper]

Was bored and wondered what it would look like.

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[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] [emoji23][emoji1598][emoji1306]
Hittin the drags later today.

REALLY wanted to go OEM on the flywheel, but I just couldn't justify $400 on a flywheel. LUK didn't have good reviews, so I got the "AMS". Hopefully it doesn't give me any problems. Went OEM/Aisin on everything else.

Just noticed neither the FW or clutch kit come with pressure plate bolts. After some Google searching, I still wasn't able to find the specs on those bolts. I guess bolts are bolts- they don't have any special shoulder or anything on them. I should be able to grab bolts from the hardware store and use those no problem *

 

[pavelvoivoda]

Manual swapped the '01 cluster-

I gotta question:
Which transfer are you replacing your multi-mode Straight-Shifter in your 4Runner with? Is it the single-mode JShifter or is it the multi-mode JShifter?

:becky:

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Which transfer are you replacing your multi-mode Straight-Shifter in your 4Runner with?

Single-mode J-Shift. To be honest, I wouldn't mind the single-mode straight-shift. I never got to try it in my '97, but I'm pretty sure you can get 2LO pretty easily on those. If you un-plug the position SW on the shift rail, and shift it in to LO- the "computer" won't know to actuate the 4WD rail, but you manually just went into low range. You can then get 4WD by pushing the button...

 

[pavelvoivoda]

Single-mode J-Shift. To be honest, I wouldn't mind the single-mode straight-shift. I never got to try it in my '97, but I'm pretty sure you can get 2LO pretty easily on those. If you un-plug the position SW on the shift rail, and shift it in to LO- the "computer" won't know to actuate the 4WD rail, but you manually just went into low range. You can then get 4WD by pushing the button...

I see, but do you have vacuum or electric ADD and have you taken into account that the front diff ADD works with the main transfer case controller.

Unless the controller sends out signal to the ADD, the front diff will not engage and you won't have 4x4.

Or are you changing the front diff too with a mechanical constantly connected?

Am i missing something?

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Am i missing something?

Maybe?
I have electric ADD.
The rail position SW on the J-Shift will still close the circuit, which will tell the 4WD computer to engage ADD.

 

[pavelvoivoda]

Maybe?
I have electric ADD.
The rail position SW on the J-Shift will still close the circuit, which will tell the 4WD computer to engage ADD.

Gotcha

Wouldn't it be cool to keep the multi-mode transfer case in? I mean you have central diff lock on it, which you can unlock and drive on pavement at highway speeds?

 

[ToyotaBrah]

And, just in case you thought your seat belt receptacle had black lettering- it does not.

I thought I was the only weirdo who did this!! I have those same towels from Costco. Can't beat them. Once they're completely dirty, I toss 'em.

The seat belt receptacles along with the seat belts were pretty disgusting on mine. Before, the driver side seat belt wouldn't retract by itself because it was so stiff. So, I got a 5 gallon bucket full of hot water and brushed them with a tooth brush. The water started as clear and then turned to a vibrant Starbucks espresso brown (yuck). The seat belt now retracts into the seat belt retractor on its own. Love the work so far on the new rig.

 

[amalik]

I thought I was the only weirdo who did this!! I have those same towels from Costco. Can't beat them. Once they're completely dirty, I toss 'em.

you talkin bout the microfiber towels?

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Wouldn't it be cool to keep the multi-mode transfer case in? I mean you have central diff lock on it, which you can unlock and drive on pavement at highway speeds?

Man; I was set on the simplicity of the j-shift, but now you have me re-thinking it. It would save me money in having the driveline lengthened too. But then my front would need to be shortened... as it is, I have a manual front shaft that's the right length for the j-shift.

The seat belt now retracts into the seat belt retractor on its own. Love the work so far on the new rig.

Thanks man! I need to do that too. Did you use any kind of detergent, or just hot water?

 

[pavelvoivoda]

Man; I was set on the simplicity of the j-shift, but now you have me re-thinking it. It would save me money in having the driveline lengthened too. But then my front would need to be shortened... as it is, I have a manual front shaft that's the right length for the j-shift.?

I am very happy with my manual transmission, multimode transfer and rear elocker combo. It does take some time to do but it is totally worth it.

I have the 3.9 e locker to match the front e ADD diff and when both engaged it does pretty well. At the same time i can unlock them and drive safely on wet highway and not worry as much about losing control.

In case you decide to do it, let me know.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Gonna get crackin on this, and probably pull the j-shift off the trans now [emoji23]

 

[fourfive]

Man; I was set on the simplicity of the j-shift, but now you have me re-thinking it. It would save me money in having the driveline lengthened too. But then my front would need to be shortened... as it is, I have a manual front shaft that's the right length for the j-shift.Thanks man! I need to do that too. Did you use any kind of detergent, or just hot water?

I agree. I like the simplicity of the j-shift but having the ability for AWD is pretty nice. I use it regularly when it's raining.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Honestly, it's always a pleasure to work on my 4Runner [emoji5]

First TB job, so that's where I got after just under 2hrs. Interesting there is a current thread on the "jiggle valve", as mine was probably factory installed, and was clocked so the jiggler was at 12 o'clock.

People claim 10* cooler temps with the dingleberry at 6, so that's where I put the new 'stat in at.

Gonna pick up a seal puller tomorrow after work so I can pull the cam and crank seals.
I would have it buttoned up tomorrow- no problem- if I wasn't swapping the tensioner. One of the tensioner bolts is pretty buried under the AC pump/bracket, so we'll see how that goes.

 

[fourfive]

Looks like you are making good progress making that thing like new and improved. I used a 12" long 1/4" wobble socket extension with a short socket and was able to reach the rear tensioner bolt while lying on my back and going underneath the 4runner. I 've read about doing it that way & thought I'd give it a try and it worked. It took more time installing the bolt because of the difficulty getting the bolt lined back up in the hole. Funny how that dingleberry position can be so crucial. :noidea:

 

[BrianSD_42]

Subscribed. Can't wait to see this thing on the trail.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

I used a 12" long 1/4" wobble socket extension with a short socket and was able to reach the rear tensioner bolt while lying on my back and going underneath the 4runner.

Okay, cool! I saw that little opening between the bracket and block, and was wondering if that would work. In that case, I'll pick one of those wobble extensions up tonight too!
Borrowing the FIL's '04 S/C Tundra, so the lady doesn't have to take me to and pick me up from work [emoji23] It's fun. High mileage though.

 

[rkntoy]

Man; I was set on the simplicity of the j-shift, but now you have me re-thinking it. It would save me money in having the driveline lengthened too. But then my front would need to be shortened... as it is, I have a manual front shaft that's the right length for the j-shift

Since you are changing driveline length just go ahead and put in dual cases. I would like to see how I should have done it.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Since you are changing driveline length just go ahead and put in dual cases. I would like to see how I should have done it.

Haha thanks Steve [emoji5]
I was looking, and I'm surprised Marlin doesn't make RF1A adapters for us. It seemed a little confusing on Inchworm's site, but I think they make the adapters that would work. If I remember right, they were only listed for use on Tacoma. Should be the same for our application though.
I was pretty active on Pirate- 10yrs or so ago- when the big blowout with MC/TG happened, and I chose to not buy any TG parts at that point. Only time I slipped was when I did the 3.4 in my 2nd gen runner- the power steering lines were in stock locally at my buddy's shop, and- of course- the price couldn't be beat. It's just my own personal deal. Maybe I need to get over it.

 

[phattyduck]

First TB job, so that's where I got after just under 2hrs. Interesting there is a current thread on the "jiggle valve", as mine was probably factory installed, and was clocked so the jiggler was at 12 o'clock.

What was the date stamped on the thermostat that you pulled out? That'll tell you whether it was original... I bet it has been out once before.

-Charlie