Tyler James Inc's Ultimate '01 SR5

I don't have the patience for stupid people. Like 0 patience. You're a better person than me for staying calm with them and giving them a second chance to fix it. How is it having new clear glass? I've thought about putting new glass in mine, but I know as soon as I do it would get chipped or cracked...
 
Looking great dude. Meant to ask you about your rear flares you chopped up. Something I need to get around to doing. I don't want to take them off as they'd look weird without them and your trim job looks great.

That's about the only place I'm rubbing when the tire is stuffed up. Just another small job on the long list of shit to do haha
 
Gosh, that windshield ordeal sounded horrible. I applaud your patience, Tyler. Looks great!


My S2000 has been needing a new windshield for quite sometime, and me being the picky SOB that I am, I have been waiting to come across that right guy who can meet my expectations, which are high admittedly, but I want things done clean and precise. Trying to avoid the type who rub against the paint with their tools and have general disregard for the car they're working on.
 
Gosh, that windshield ordeal sounded horrible. I applaud your patience, Tyler. Looks great!


My S2000 has been needing a new windshield for quite sometime, and me being the picky SOB that I am, I have been waiting to come across that right guy who can meet my expectations, which are high admittedly, but I want things done clean and precise. Trying to avoid the type who rub against the paint with their tools and have general disregard for the car they're working on.

Thanks man. It was a little irritating, but shit happens.
Yeah, and about rubbing on the paint- I hear you big time on that. I was driving home, and the sun shined just right on the hood, and I saw where he wiped the hood off with something. I guess it's a lose-lose, because I wouldn't be happy if he left a mess on my hood, but I would also be pretty upset if I had a nice black car that he decided was okay to wipe off with who-knows-what. If you're that picky, you gotta at least give him a clean and waxed car, and have him do the replacement at your house, where you can blow any debris off with compressed air. It's just a 4Runner; we bought it to be able to have fun in without stressing about dings and scuffs!
I don't have the patience for stupid people. Like 0 patience. You're a better person than me for staying calm with them and giving them a second chance to fix it. How is it having new clear glass? I've thought about putting new glass in mine, but I know as soon as I do it would get chipped or cracked...

Well, mine was super fcked, so I didn't have much of a choice. It wasn't in my line-of-sight, but still looked ghetto.
I'm about as easy going as they come man. I can still handle business, but it takes a LOT to actually piss me off. When I was 18, I had a bagged/bodydropped Mazda. I had a cop pull me over, and be a complete DICKHEAD to me for no reason. I like cops; I have a lot of respect for cops; I have cop friends and neighbors- but this guy was threatening to tow my pickup, and telling me all the things he COULD do. I was nothing but calm and respectful, and he just wouldn't let up. Ended up not even giving me a ticket for anything. That was definitely one time my blood was boiling. Don't threaten me and be a complete douche for no reason.
I sometimes regret not getting the mk6 lvl8 in black.

I haven't once regretted getting them! Wish I would have gotten the -12 instead of et0, because rubbing the frame at lock is a little annoying. Better clearance and scrub radius though, and that's what I was after.
Looking great dude. Meant to ask you about your rear flares you chopped up. Something I need to get around to doing. I don't want to take them off as they'd look weird without them and your trim job looks great.



That's about the only place I'm rubbing when the tire is stuffed up. Just another small job on the long list of shit to do haha

Thank man! And I hear ya.
It's kind of a shitty deal, because once you chop them, it looks kinda nasty to expose the bumper/brackets after you've trimmed what you need to. I didn't feel like I had a choice though, because the 315s were jamming against them HARD. I want to be able to stuff the tires without any rubbing at all.
I can answer any questions, or I can just send mine to you. I'm sure you can have them sprayed easy enough, and you can keep your OEM pieces un-cut. Just an offer.
Since I'm working on doing an f150 tank, I had to pull the stock bumper off. Since I can't run a stock bumper anymore, I have no use for the flares.

Took a trip to Bend for the weekend!
Loaded up and headed out-
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I've read multiple members talk about their rig being sketchy on the highway, and saying things like "I won't go any faster than 65- it just isn't made to go that fast, and doesn't feel safe"
This legit concerns me. If you feel this way, you need to fix your rig.
We were loaded with 400lbs of people, 200lbs of dog, and around 100lbs of gear. I think people tend to overestimate the weight of their gear, but maybe I'm wrong.
Anyway, just like my '97- my '01 drives perfect on the highway at any speed. We were driving over the mountain, and were between 70 and 80 much of the time
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No shakes, noises, vibrations; drives great and feels solid.
It's crazy how much smoke has made it this far down from the BC wildfires!
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Maybe the pictures don't do it justice, but the smoke is insane.
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My buddy was bringing the crawler over, and ran outta gas [emoji23]
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It's kinda wide.
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Took a trip to Bend for the weekend!
Anyway, just like my '97- my '01 drives perfect on the highway at any speed. We were driving over the mountain, and were between 70 and 80 much of the time
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I am curious why your brake light is on in this pic. I wouldn't think you would let your fluid get low. LOL
 
I am curious why your brake light is on in this pic. I wouldn't think you would let your fluid get low. LOL



He's got another thread about that situation... But he either hasn't been on or hasn't solved it just yet. I have faith.

Ps: I did have an observation on the Brake Light issue, it's in your other thread.

Killer stuff
 
I am curious why your brake light is on in this pic. I wouldn't think you would let your fluid get low. LOL

[emoji1589][emoji23][emoji1589]
But he either hasn't been on or hasn't solved it just yet.
Ps: I did have an observation on the Brake Light issue, it's in your other thread.
Killer stuff

Thanks for the faith!
I assumed [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] was kidding, and just bustin' my balls. If not- [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION]- it's on because my manual Tacoma ECU doesn't support the ABS/VSC/TRAC system, and the brake light is tied into the ABS system as a malfunction indicator.
And I have solved it! [emoji1598] I just haven't taken the time to do the necessary wiring yet.
The park brake lever and low fluid warning both provide ground when lever is pulled or fluid is low. The low fluid goes straight to the cluster. The brake lever doesn't go to the cluster; it goes to the ABS ECU. This is where it gets weird. The cluster has a normally closed relay in the brake light circuit, and I have to send a wire- at the ABS ECU or cluster- to ground to shut the light off. At that point, I need to run a jumper from the park brake lever up to the low fluid circuit to be able to have a functional park brake indicator.
I struggle between leaving all the factory '01/'02 wiring, and taking the time to sort through it all and simplify everything. I've been leaving as much as I can, "in case anyone wants to put it back to stock". Yeah, good luck with that [emoji23]
 
[emoji1589][emoji23][emoji1589]


Thanks for the faith!
I assumed [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] was kidding, and just bustin' my balls. If not- [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION]- it's on because my manual Tacoma ECU doesn't support the ABS/VSC/TRAC system, and the brake light is tied into the ABS system as a malfunction indicator.
And I have solved it! [emoji1598] I just haven't taken the time to do the necessary wiring yet.
The park brake lever and low fluid warning both provide ground when lever is pulled or fluid is low. The low fluid goes straight to the cluster. The brake lever doesn't go to the cluster; it goes to the ABS ECU. This is where it gets weird. The cluster has a normally closed relay in the brake light circuit, and I have to send a wire- at the ABS ECU or cluster- to ground to shut the light off. At that point, I need to run a jumper from the park brake lever up to the low fluid circuit to be able to have a functional park brake indicator.
I struggle between leaving all the factory '01/'02 wiring, and taking the time to sort through it all and simplify everything. I've been leaving as much as I can, "in case anyone wants to put it back to stock". Yeah, good luck with that [emoji23]

HeHe. Of course I'm kidding. :bounce:
 
Pretty stoked to get another piece to the puzzle from the homie [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] today!
Pretty awesome when u-pull-it comes to you [emoji16]
He was delivering his son's flopped rig to a member, and stopped by on his way. The plan was to just grab the booster, master, and a couple non-ABS lines- but then I saw the power seats-
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[emoji848]
My manual seats were in about equal condition- as far as leather- but the vinyl was torn on the side-
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Since I knew the guy he was selling it to, I shot him a text before the truck and trailer took off.
So I bought some power seats [emoji16]
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While I had the seats out, I finally got a chance to clean the carpet well-
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The wiring was pretty straight forward, so I won't bore you with that. I still need to get power to the seats. I read it's in a connecter under the rear driver seat- anyone know? In connector "J12" or something?
Another thing-
**Anyone reading this know the function of the third wire in a non-power passenger seat?!**
The driver seat has a ground and a belt buckle indicator, but the passenger seat has a ground, belt buckled indicator, and another function! I didn't notice until my old seats were gone, so I didn't have a chance to investigate. At first, I thought it was a passenger-present pressure switch wire, and a belt buckled wire- but I found out those functions are combined within the seat harness. Without that third wire hooked up, the passenger-present and passenger seat belt reminder functions both work.
Wiring went fairly smoothly.
Driver side old and new-
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I was hoping to re-pin them, but the box terminals on the '01 harness were smaller, so I spliced. Didn't feel like soldering today-
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Passenger side old vs new-
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"Old"('01) is the 4-wire connector, and the blue with yellow stripe is the mystery wire I am wondering about. It is NOT the same as the larger gauge solid blue wire on the 3-wire connector- that is the +12v for the power seat motors. But this connector used the bigger box terminals, so I was able to re-pin this one [emoji322]
Passenger carpet was gross, but of course I forgot an after pic-
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New seat and clean carpet [emoji1598]
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Brake swap parts-
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I wanna get this thing swapped in so badly, but it's gonna have to wait for another weekend.
 
I wish I could have traded the seats for this goof ball. Playing fetch is the next best thing.
 

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I've read multiple members talk about their rig being sketchy on the highway, and saying things like "I won't go any faster than 65- it just isn't made to go that fast, and doesn't feel safe"
This legit concerns me. If you feel this way, you need to fix your rig.
We were loaded with 400lbs of people, 200lbs of dog, and around 100lbs of gear. I think people tend to overestimate the weight of their gear, but maybe I'm wrong.

I agree with you on all of this. Mine cruises paralegal speeds just fine, no shakes or anything. I don't drive like that very often though, the gas consumption is the worst part. Coming back from Moab going through some extremely desolate part of Wyoming I was just driving, observing the scenery, when I looked down and I was going much faster downhill than I thought I was. I had kinda zoned out on my speed... We'll just say I didn't know the 4Runner could still go that fast. No shakes either.
 
I wish I could have traded the seats for this goof ball. Playing fetch is the next best thing.

Awe bubba! [emoji5]
He really appreciated the ball-throwing [emoji16] Easily his favorite thing in the world, and I don't do it for him as much as I should! [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION], I'm glad to hear yours drives great too. I hear those stories and cringe!
 
Finally got this POS out
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Which meant I could finally get this POS out
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Before
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After
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I did the whole job after work yesterday- took me about 3hrs. Not too bad of a job, but I think the non-ABS(4cyl) MC has a smaller bore. I know the front brakes are smaller, somit would make sense. I say that because my pedal travel is more than I think it should be.
I'd like to now find a 4-bolt booster and "1-ton T100" master. The brakes work great, but I don't like the pedal travel.
The hardest part of the job was fishing the stupid rear lines through all the other EVAP lines [emoji30] I want to eventually replace the front lines with OEM non-ABS, but I used the front '01 lines for now.
 
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... my pedal travel is more than I think it should be. The brakes work great, but I don't like the pedal travel...



Holy smokes man good job.

For travel, you sure the pedal rod is adjusted correctly? Or maybe you need a different rod for non abs? I see this a lot in clutch master replacements. Just an idea to ease your mind
 
[MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] thanks man! Glad to have it- mostly- done!
I used all the 4-cyl/non-ABS parts, so the rod matches the booster/MC. I was thinking about adjustment, but it doesn't seem like that should change the travel(in my head). In a clutch, you're changing the point of engagement, but it seems like the pedal travel will be the same- no matter how it's adjusted.
Maybe I'm wrong. I guess I'll give it a shot.
I'd love for someone to confirm the bore size though. I know the non-ABS MC has a different part number, and I can't think of any other differences that would make it different from the ABS rigs. My VW has a switch on the MC, so I got a non-ABS MC that didn't have that switch on the bottom side. But on ours, I don't think the ABS rigs have anything like that. I guess I need to look at an ABS rig in person to see for sure.
 

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