URD 7th injector tuning maps

[rideexileex]

Did Toyota put on a special ECU for Supercharged 4runners from the factory or did they just slap on the supercharger and thats it.

What im asking is did they put any different electronics in a supercharged 4runner vs a stock one.

There was never a "factory" supercharger, but rather a dealer/TRD option, which was then installed after delivery. For our third gens's/taco's, the ECU was left alone. TRD later came out with their own 7th injector kit, but it has not been rated as effective as the URD tunable kit.

TRD superchargers for later model vehicles come with an ECU reflash

 

[fun_runner]

URD advertises the base tune as good enough... Not many people look past that.

I'm one of the few that's going to look past it. I installed an AEM wide-band O2 the other day, and a boost gauge, to keep an eye on whats going on with the engine. I also have a pyrometer laying around that I wouldn't mind hooking up too just to see what my EGT's do. I don't want to clutter the dash with gauges tho so i don't know. . . I just want it to run the best it can with my set-up. "Good enough" doesn't quite cut it with me. Especially since I pull my camper with this beast. Its gotta run perfect.

 

[paddlenbike]

Good, we need more people like you on this forum. You don't really need an egt gauge, or even a boost gauge for that matter. My boost gauge is hiding in the glove box and I only check it occasionally when I'm at altitude to see what kind of boost I'm getting.

Since you are also a manual transmission, I would be curious to know what your air fuel ratios are like on a 2nd or 3rd gear pull like I showed in the video. I hooked the output of my wide band to the computer as well as the connection to the urd box so I could see rpm and boost in the urd tables and air fuel ratio at the same time when accelerating--the free camstudio software does a screen shot so I don't have to take my eyes off the road. Try it and report back.

 

[fun_runner]

At full throttle, in 2nd and part of 3rd my AFR was hovering around 12.5 and would start creeping up the closer I got to red line. Now that's just glancing at the gauge from time to time while doing pulls by myself. I currently have no data logging ability. I'm hoping to order the 7th in the next couple weeks. We'll see what happens then.

 

[hoe_nah]

whats going on guys..i just got me a 2k 4x4 5spd s/c and this thread is great lol..gonna be getting my 7th injector kit or just go larger injectors and a urd controller we shall see but i need to learn more about this tuning stuff...

 

[paddlenbike]

At full throttle, in 2nd and part of 3rd my AFR was hovering around 12.5 and would start creeping up the closer I got to red line. Now that's just glancing at the gauge from time to time while doing pulls by myself. I currently have no data logging ability. I'm hoping to order the 7th in the next couple weeks. We'll see what happens then.

Thanks for the report. I'm impressed yours is maintaining 12.5:1 in the mid-range without any fuel mods. Mine is taking additional fueling to be in that range.

whats going on guys..i just got me a 2k 4x4 5spd s/c and this thread is great lol..gonna be getting my 7th injector kit or just go larger injectors and a urd controller we shall see but i need to learn more about this tuning stuff...

Nice! I would recommend the 7th injector route. It's easier to tune than the six injector setup.

 

[hoe_nah]

a forum member is selling that urd performance calibration unit and figured for that price i was just gonna part everything together.

quick question ive been searching but cant find this, the boost port on the s/c what pitch thread is that? gonna try that fmu for now until i source my fuel add ons.

nvm 1/8” NPT is what i need...

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I've been meaning to post in this thread....

I run an Innovate Motorsports DB Wideband AFR Gauge w/Data Logging Capability. I also have and use a BR-3 OBDII interface for monitoring fuel trims, timing, etc. I'm connecting everything to my laptop via serial to USB converters, and everything is interfacing as it should. Finally, I've pulled the pre-load tune off my URD controller and played with it.

That's as far as I've gotten with things, and based on what I've seen, I do believe I'm one of the few people for whom the pre-load tune from URD actually works very well.

My AFR will dip as low as 9.9 under wide open throttle in 3rd gear, and usually runs 11.2-11.5 under WOT through all gears. If anything, mine could stand to have a little fuel REMOVED from the map to get it closer to 11.8.

Timing is a non issue on my rig. My STFT's and LTFT's are always nearly offsetting, and single digits +/-. I have zero ping.

The truck pulls like crazy, and my only issue with it is that the transistion from closed loop to open loop is not as smooth as I'd like. Right now I feel a huge transition in power when the truck goes from closed to open loop. In closed loop, in boost & under part throttle, the AFR's run ~13.5-14.1 thanks to the URD closed loop enrichment module. When the transition to open loop happens, the AFR's immediately drop into the mid 11's and the power comes on like crazy. I wish there was a way to get a little more fuel into the cylinders in closed loop before the transition...

There is a setting in the URD software that controls the manifold pressure at which the closed loop fuel enrichment process kicks in. They (URD) set it around 3psi, and I plan to lower mine so the process starts as soon as boost comes on.

Last but not least, I have not really dug into the tuning because I'd like to have the truck dyno'd before and after, so I can see if I actually achieve any measurable results.

So don't fret, paddlenbike, you are NOT the only guy on this forum who is thinking about this stuff and playing with things.

 

[paddlenbike]

Bigfish--that's great, looks like you have a solid starting tune. You're around 5,000 ft in elevation, right? I am at sealevel, so perhaps it makes sense that my truck requires more fueling.

Regarding timing, I'm pulling as much as 7 degrees of timing, but given my hot climate and low elevation, that seems somewhat typical. I can still induce a little bit of pinging on a rare occasion, but once I am over 3000 ft in elevation, I can't induce it no matter what. Elevation makes a difference.

Gadget tells me everything I'm seeing is fine and he wouldn't change the tune I have. I think from his perspective that I should be tuning a manual transmission truck in 4th gear, but I hit the 108 MPH speedlimiter well before I top-out in 4th gear. That's not practical for me, I tend to wring mine out in 2nd and 3rd gear getting on freeway on-ramps, playing in the desert or climbing sand dunes. I don't want to see any higher than 12.5:1 under these conditions, so I think I will add 10-20% more fuel in that part of the map and see if I can hit my target.

I am seeing the opposite of you as far as the closed loop fuel enrichment (CLFE) feature. I'm seeing 11.8-12.2:1 and when I go WOT and trigger open loop the AF ratio increases. I have the overpressure setting set at the default 3 psi position.

I haven't really looked at the short term and long term (STLT) fuel trims yet. The CLFE is taking care of my boosted closed loop and I'm trying to dial-in my open loop WOT AF ratios, so it seems to me like STLT is sort of the last step, no?

Thanks for chiming-in. Haven't had a chance to discuss tuning with anyone, so it's good to get someone else's perspective.

 

[hoe_nah]

so I just ordered my kit should be at my door by wednesday. how hard was it to wire in the controller?

 

[paddlenbike]

The URD ECU is pretty simple, it needs power, ground and tach signal from the Toyota ECU and it needs to intercept both the crank and cam angle signals, which means cutting the factory wire so the signal passes through the URD ECU before reaching the Toyota ECU.

Later I hooked up the optional "closed loop boost enrichment" that intercepts the O2 sensor circuit to drop the air/fuel (A/F) ratio when running over 3 psi of boost when still in closed loop (i.e. you're in a high load condition but not at full throttle).

Just take your time and solder/shrink wrap all connections. For tap connections I used the electrical tape with a zip tie on each end method to make sure the tape didn't unravel with time.

 

[hoe_nah]

ok so I finally got the pcu in. I did it in steps, one day fuel pump etc etc..all I got to say is holy moly, when I open it up she boogies now lol. it also seems to drive a lot more consistent not sure if that makes sense tho

 

[hoe_nah]

ok another question. what software do you need to have on ur laptop to run this? windows xp? windows 8?? it wont work with my mac so im going to buy a laptop for the truck

 

[paddlenbike]

I stepped back to Windows XP because I couldn't get Vista to work with the URD stuff, my printer, or just about anything for that matter. I'm not sure about Win 7 or 8, but I don't recommend trying Vista.

 

[fun_runner]

My 7th injector should be here Thursday. Hopefully that cures the little bit of pinging I get when I'm towing my camper.

 

[rideexileex]

Vista

:jaw drop:

 

[paddlenbike]

^^ haha, yes, when I think about products that had so many faults they never should have even left the manufacturer's doorway, Vista and Microsoft in general usually are the first to come to mind.

 

[paddlenbike]

Thought I would post an update. Back in September I was caravanning with some other 4Runners to go to the Pismo Jamboree and had an engine problem that I thought was going to put the 4Runner on a flatbed for its first "unscheduled maintenance." It stopped idling, then it lost power completely and would barely run. There are very few known problems on the 3.4L, so we dismantled the intake tube in the parking lot at In-and-Out to track the problem down. The MAF and idle air controller are two of those parts that are known problem spots for trucks that see dirty environments frequently.

Unscheduled maintenance at In-N-Out

I've had problems with the MAF a number of times due to a faulty o-ring gasket that was allowing dirt into the MAF. (See my post here on that topic.) We cleaned the idle air controller then noticed a very small piece of material stuck to the heated wire portion of the MAF. It looked like a tiny particle from the red shop rags I used when I did the MAF o-ring repair. We swapped the MAF over to a friend's truck and his wouldn't run either, confirming the piece stuck to the MAF was the issue. Cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner and all problems went away.

Ever since the field repair, the truck has run much richer under boost. The whole reason I started this thread is because I was having to add quite a bit more fuel than most people to get the truck tuned under boost, and now it is apparent that the debris in the MAF was the issue. With the same tune that used to get me to 12.8:1 under boost, is now hitting 10.8:1. This is a good thing, as now I can go in and start taking out all that additional fuel I had to add before. I suspect the debris was blocking the MAF from correctly metering air at high loads, then on my drive to the Jamboree it shifted and blocked airflow over the hotwire entirely, causing it to sputter and die. Strangely enough, the check engine light was never triggered.

 

[05SVRACER]

Update
URD had originally sent me the incorrect wiring diagram for my truck, so there was NO connection to the O2 sensor at all to make the closed loop enrichment feature work. I emailed URD and Gadget replied with a different wiring diagram for my model year truck, one diagram is for a 2000 model year with California emissions that *taps* the AFR sensor in the newer trucks, and another wiring diagram for the 2000 federal emissions model (mine) that *intercepts and modifies* the O2 sensor signal. When I say "taps" vs "intercepts," what I mean is the Cali version has one tap connection to the AFR sensor whereas the Fed Emissions version requires you cut the factory O2 wire and run that signal into the URD piggyback and back out to the factory ECU...i.e. 2 connections vs 1 connection on an AFR truck. I made that connection this weekend and now the AFRs drop to around 12.5:1 whenever boost exceeds 3 psi in closed loop (where it used to stay at 14.7:1 until open loop).

I have more tuning to do but need to wait for this to arrive:

I can't plug the serial cable into the URD ECU when it's in its mounted position due to space constraints, so this little piece will no longer require pulling the stereo bezel everytime I want to make an adjustment. More later.

Finally have my urd kit along with a wideband and boost gauge installed. Couple of questions before I tune.

How do you make sure the o2 reading is coming through for closed loop enrichment? I know the r4 software has options for additional inputs, anyone know what I put is suppose to show o2 readings?

I understand that in open loop 11.8 is optimum afr. Which the stock urd tune with the stock pulley is about right, but what do I aim for in closed loop? That's where I'm still getting ooccasional detonation.

Lastly, as far as timing control. I'm using an elm327 through bluetooth to see timing, would I be better off and more accurate getting a USB direct interface?

 

[05SVRACER]

Side note, I've been running a resonator in place of the cat for a few weeks and I've gotten no CEL, that odd to anyone else?