paddlenbike
Member
Good thought....a run down the road with the R4 software will let me know if the urd ecu is seeing actual boost.
URD 7th injector tuning maps
- Thread starter paddlenbike
- Start date
Good thought....a run down the road with the R4 software will let me know if the urd ecu is seeing actual boost.
regulator213
New member
Yep, I think speedy is onto something. If you're tapping boost pressure in the same place I did it's right next to the throttle body. Maybe you pulled something loose when replacing the TPS or possibly even just moved the line enough to make a weak/brittle part of that line finally break open.
paddlenbike
Member
Thought I'd update this thread--I did eventually get a P0171 error code which seems like is always caused by a dirty MAF. It was dirty and following a 5 minute removal and cleaning all is back to normal. Thanks guys.
Hello. Here from tacomaworld to get to know a bit more about tuning the 7th. Nobody talks about tuning over there. I’m having a hard time getting the ping out and I’m having to add a ton of retard. But I’m not sure if what I’m doing es even correct as hardly anyone shares maps and location etc.
I’m in GA close to sea level and trying to tune to 60 degree weather. It’s going to get much hotter so I’m sure I’ll have to pull even more timing. My timing MAP has as much as 5 degrees an many places. I haven’t pulled more than that under 7PSI because I don’t know just how much can be pulled without hurting something. There’s really not a whole lot of good info on tuning these.
One thing I can’t figure out is if what I keep hearing is acutaully still ping. While ping is usually irratic what I’m hearing is pretty consistent. And it’s very light. Many times I’m having to slightly turn my ear in that direction to pick it up. I’m going to post my timing map tonight in hopes that someone can give me some pointers.
I’m in GA close to sea level and trying to tune to 60 degree weather. It’s going to get much hotter so I’m sure I’ll have to pull even more timing. My timing MAP has as much as 5 degrees an many places. I haven’t pulled more than that under 7PSI because I don’t know just how much can be pulled without hurting something. There’s really not a whole lot of good info on tuning these.
One thing I can’t figure out is if what I keep hearing is acutaully still ping. While ping is usually irratic what I’m hearing is pretty consistent. And it’s very light. Many times I’m having to slightly turn my ear in that direction to pick it up. I’m going to post my timing map tonight in hopes that someone can give me some pointers.
Speedy
Member
Most people don't understand the tuning so they're afraid to discuss it.
Tuning the 7th is pretty simple. I'm assuming your vehicle is an automatic?
I initially had a few places I had to remove quite a bit of timing in my automatic 4Runner, especially for summer heat. I think I had 7 degrees removed around the 5psi mark and 2500 RPMs, think easing on the throttle going up hill or something.
I added meth injection and WOW, zero'd out the timing map, and POW mo powah big time.
Yeah. I originally wanted to go with water meth but opted for the 7th instead for the timing controller. Gonna have to wait a while before i can afford a quality kit. anyway back to timing. I have some strange issues.
First off i cant seem to break 14/15 degrees boosting. no matter how much retard i put in. Even at 4-5 degrees in most of the mid range 2000-3000 RPMs. The kit is working as I was able to eliminate ping by adding retard and lower my AFR. What gets me is sometimes even when the timing was close to 20 I was pinging and even though I have much lower timing in lower boost it would not ping. At least not enough to hear...Im using the KIWI3 and command center app to check trims, timing, AFR, and RPMs
Still working on the fuel maps. I've reduced the over pressure to 2 and I've added more 7th at lower PSI and lower RMPs. Trims are not consistent yet but AFRs are around 13.5 when boosting around 3-4psi and partial throttle
One thing I have yet to do is go WOT to fix the high RPM lean out. I'm a bit worried that when i get that in order then it will make tuning for timing more difficult. I'm waiting until i get a Transgo shift kit installed to make any pulls or go WOT. I've just been getting to interstate speeds and tuning there.
Before this I've never had anything to do with boosting or tuning vehicles so its all very new to me and i still don't have a very firm grasp on everything.
Speedy
Member
For tuning, I get out on a deserted highway and get up to about 60 or so, and turn on ECT and turn off O/D. Then I roll in to the throttle and hold it till I hit the speed limiter and log AFR and cross check.
Once I have that dialed in, I do the same thing with the auto in gear 2, starting about 35mph and floor it till I get real close to read line, then let off and slap the stick up to D, and review the log.
Easy peasy.
Once I have that dialed in, I do the same thing with the auto in gear 2, starting about 35mph and floor it till I get real close to read line, then let off and slap the stick up to D, and review the log.
Easy peasy.
Okay, I’m I think I already know what the answer is going to be but I’m going to ask anyway. So, when I’m in OD cruising and I come to a slope and I just want to maintain cruising speed I’ll get a deep flutter noise. And I believe that I’m getting ping as well. The engine just sounds like it’s under a lot of load. I understand that it’s is in fact under load but whenever I hear it I question if it’s normal or not for it to sound so deep.
I can just totally avoid it and give it more gas, the tachometer will jump to 2300 or so and no ping. Otherwise it really wants to stay at 1800RPM and Bert slowly move up. I have to very deliberately push it past that area.
Anybody else experience this in OD?
I can just totally avoid it and give it more gas, the tachometer will jump to 2300 or so and no ping. Otherwise it really wants to stay at 1800RPM and Bert slowly move up. I have to very deliberately push it past that area.
Anybody else experience this in OD?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/ is way more helpful in terms of tuning, since half of the users are there have build up their engines it seems. The Perfomance section is the most helpful, you'll see me posting around there will questions from time to time as well.
The "flutter" is the pulses of the supercharger, as long as it's not a high pitched metalic sound. When at lower RPM's you can acually hear each push of air going into the engine.
A very, very helpful tip that I never though to share that I did to eliminate low RPM ping was adjust the transmission kick down cable. This was on 96-00 4Runners, not sure what years of Tacomas though. It's the cable on the throttle body on the top that goes to the right:
First make sure this cable is tight. If not, loosen the lock nuts and move them closer to the cable end, tightening it. Then, overtighten by a thread or two, takes some trial and error. This will change how the transmission shifts, meaning less throttle is needed for it to kick out of OD and back into 3rd, so it doesn't chug along in OD and bring about the dreaded low RPM pinging. Combine this with keeping your ECT Power button on full time (which a guy on here dyno'd to show it gains 5 HP due to keeping the engine in the powerband) you'll notice a more peppy throttle due to the transmissions playing nice.
These auto transmissions are reliable but I'm really starting to reach the limits of what they can do. They tend to have a mind of their own.
Performance - Toyota Tacoma Forum is way more helpful in terms of tuning, since half of the users are there have build up their engines it seems. The Perfomance section is the most helpful, you'll see me posting around there will questions from time to time as well.
The "flutter" is the pulses of the supercharger, as long as it's not a high pitched metalic sound. When at lower RPM's you can acually hear each push of air going into the engine.
A very, very helpful tip that I never though to share that I did to eliminate low RPM ping was adjust the transmission kick down cable. This was on 96-00 4Runners, not sure what years of Tacomas though. It's the cable on the throttle body on the top that goes to the right:
First make sure this cable is tight. If not, loosen the lock nuts and move them closer to the cable end, tightening it. Then, overtighten by a thread or two, takes some trial and error. This will change how the transmission shifts, meaning less throttle is needed for it to kick out of OD and back into 3rd, so it doesn't chug along in OD and bring about the dreaded low RPM pinging. Combine this with keeping your ECT Power button on full time (which a guy on here dyno'd to show it gains 5 HP due to keeping the engine in the powerband) you'll notice a more peppy throttle due to the transmissions playing nice.
These auto transmissions are reliable but I'm really starting to reach the limits of what they can do. They tend to have a mind of their own.
I have the drive by wire setup. don't think that i can adjust the way the transmission shifts. However i did mess with it and made it tighter. it does have more response from idle but i doubt it will do anything like you are talking about. Its honesty hard to tell how bad its pinging in OD with minimal throttle. Its better but not 100% gone. I also seem to get more ping when its warming up.
i believe that i also have a small exhaust leak before the stock o2 sensor and at the Wideband. might have something to do with some of my issues but there is no way to tell until i fix it.
My timing maps are starting at 5 at 1psi throughout the problem areas. I don't know if anyone else has a map like that but im fearing that its going to get worse when it heats up here in the south.
I am also seriously considering a water/meth stage 1 kit to spray low at all psi. maybe that will lower temps and boost octane enough to cure some of my issues. I just cant seem to understand how some people have never even had an issue with ping. I understand that elevation is a big part of it but even Texas_Ace said he's never heard his truck ping.
Ive even had the MotorVac Carbon clean done. Granted it was before the S/C so im not sure if it had any effect. I suppose its possible that the charged me and decided to not do any service at all or it slipped through the cracks but its unlikely.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Take everything Texas_Ace said with a grain of salt. He's commented on pretty much every supercharger thread saying how perfect his setup was, how it was making amazing power, etc. etc. then he got bored of it and sold it. I doubt it was quite a good as he was getting on.
The truth is, we all get ping from time to time. Closed loop tuning and/or a progressive meth kit (the stage 1 tend to make it run too rich at low boost, since they are 100% flow as soon as they are on) will get rid of it. What I did was adjust the cable so it doesn't bog down with high boost at low RPM's, then with the AEM F/IC 6 skewed the O2 sensor to run rich starting at >0PSI so there's no chance of ping.
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Well as i said before my truck is all electronic (03-04) I cant adjust any transmission cables unfortunately. And as for the water meth my goal is to spray very little across the board. Just enough to get things cooled down and boost octane. thought the smallest nozzle could accomplish that. Otherwise it wont do what i want it to do. Damn. I need to look into that and how they spray.
I don't know how crazy this sounds but I've also thought about removing the 7th from the fuel line and hooking it up to a meth pump and adding a high PSI injector (direct injected). That way you could have full tune over the meth injection in a map, It would be boost refrenced and you woudnt have to add a whole other system. But then again I don't want to spray too much in the high RPM lean out areas as you can supposedly crack a piston. And im not really sure if meth reads on a AFR the same as gas would since they are calibrated for gas.
I've also been meaning to start a thread on timing questions since i cant find the answers to my questions searching and im getting conflicting information from different sources.
So the U tune guide explains you need to watch timing via OBD2 to look for areas where the ECU is responding to knock and restore the values. Sounds easy enough.
so when im doing just that the values in the OBD2 don't change. Now, this is all Closed loop around 2000-2500. I talked to SS and was told that they wont change and that the ECU cant see changes you've made which sorta contradicts the tune guide.
But im guessing that since everything below 3k and closed loop is based off of Open loop and above 3k range it wont change until I change those values on the high end. I just haven't been able to find an area where i can go WOT to redline yet.
Plan is to find a flat stretch of highway at night, O/D off get to 3rd and slow way down the punch it. just need to wait for the Innovative tech i got to display AFRs on screen.
I also need a way to put my OBD2 readings on screen. I bought the KIWI2 thinking i could do just that but my damn laptop wont connect to BLE (Bluetooth Low Energy) unless i upgrade to windows 8. I also need to figure out if R4 can run on 8 before i do that. If that wont work I need to figure something out. The BR2 software and dongle has been discontinued so SOL there. Very few options for PC OBD2 as everything has moved to smartphone.
Also how rich at low boost with the FIC 6 you talking? With the 7th Im getting mine to mid to high 13s through low RPM boost all the way up until i hit OL and higher RPMs. Then it drops down to 12 or so. Need to work on that. I really hope i wont end up needing the AFR calibrator at the Utune giud specifies......after you purchase the 7th.........................
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I should note, I'm no expert. I'm also just a DIY'er like you, but I can share what I've done and where I've seen the most improvement.
The FIC 6 measures boost in PSIA (atmospheric pressure + boost) so once I hit above 14.7 which is no longer under vacuum my AFR's go to 13.5, then once I hit 16 PSIA where my engine was pinging, I have it hitting closer to 12.5 AFR. That's at sub-2500 RPM's at low boost. At 4 PSI my methanol comes on on low pressure at full pressure at 10 PSI. I have a 175 cc/min nozzle, which is 2.75 gph if you are used to those measurements. I contacted the manufacturer, which is what they said is perfect for a 10 PSI 300 HP motor so it's already pretty small. That's why I don't think a small nozzle on all the time will work, these boosted engines are not fuel hungry like a turbo engine so it'll flood it too much at low PSI. I put mine at 2 PSI once and it started bucking due to too much fuel in lower RPM's.
Every vehicle is different but I think you need more fuel at lower boost. That will take care of ping most likely. Once you hit 1-2 PSI get those AFR's under 13 or close to it. I haven't changed a single thing about my timing map, it's still all zeroes and most likely won't have to at all. These engines tolerate a lot before they complain.
If it seems like you are not getting anywhere with your tune, take it to a dyno and have a professional look at it. I am planning to do this anyway even though my tune is looking and performing well. And the fact I actually want to know how much HP I am putting to the wheels! I'd be super happy if I have broken 250 RWHP.
Well just sort of an update and some things that have irritated me on the 7th tuning.
I ended up trying a WOT run with O/D off in 4th gear starting at about 50mph. I Dont know if I leaned out or was too rich but as I was gaining speed and RPMs my truck all the sudden lost power and I slowed down all while my foot was on the gas. I don't think it was all the way down but it was close. I was not able to get an eye on the wideband or OBD tool, it was totally unexpected.
So I scrapped my current maps and went back to the stock maps but kept the Over Pressure at 1psi. this is with the stock pulley....now my AFRs are in the mid 13s on low RPM boosting and drops as RPMs go up and going into open loop. I also activated ECT PWR which helps kick out of O/D to avoid the HG/LR ping. With the stock maps I don't get any audible ping unless im lugging up a incline in O/D too long so ill avoid it for now.
Now, if you read the tuning guide it explains that a lean top end lowers timing advance which results in a less chance of ping. So this may have helped me in the ping area, since I leaned out, but im not 100% sure. I'm a bit apprehensive to go WOT again because I don't want to lean out again and, for now, a less aggressive timing curve is less stressful and therefore a good thing for me. I don't ever find the need to have my RPMs way up anyway. Especially since I need to do the Transgo valve body kit and install my Trans cooler. When the trans is safe ill have more fun with that.
Now, what i find irritating and really confusing about this entire process that the AIC tuning guide is not really clear about a few things.
this is directly from the AIC tune guide.
"While the ECU is still in CLOSED LOOP mode you
may see the fuel trims moving very positive in an attempted to maintain the
CLOSED LOOP fuel mixture the ECU is programmed to maintain. If you see this
start adding fuel with injector control map to attempt to move those positive fuel
trims back toward ZERO."
Sounds simple enough right? until it tells you that you cant tune closed loop with the AIC alone. And that you're going to need a $250 o2 or AFR calibrator. It would have been fantastic if this was mentioned PRIOR to purchasing a $900 kit. But reading more and gathering information from many different threads and forums I've come to understand that my AIC does have a closed loop calibrator somewhat similar to the devise stated above. Its just less controllable than a separate unit. How much more im not sure but i do believe that the AFR calibrator has its own map.
What I find very confusing is the fact that it seems as though you simply add fuel with the injector when you see the trims going too positive. Well apparently it ain't so. Here's (#17) a quote from URD explaining that you don't cancel fuel trims with the 7th injector. So which is it? what am i missing?
now on to timing.
The AIC tune guide explains that when you retard timing in the map you should see those values reflected on the scan tool. I have not been able to replicate this. In fact, talking with split second, you wont see any change in the timing on the scan tool with changes on the map. weird.
Now, I did not record stock timing so i guess I really don't know where my timing should be. So, Like others all I can do is tune the ping out. But when I really don't understand something I work at it until i get it.
My timing is
15 idle
mostly 20 in vaccum
14.5-17 in 4th gear 1-7psi
18-21 in O/D lugging up hills in boost
Im fully expecting to watch it all drop and get more ping when it gets 30-40 degrees hotter.
Considerations
Im wondering how much of this ping, if any at all, is due to clogged injectors or carbon on the pistons. I noticed that when I do ping In O/D i have to ride it for a bit to get any ping, at that point it does seem to come from one side of the engine. If it is in one or a few cylinders it must be that I've run into detonation territory from either a clogged injector or stubborn carbon buildup. Considerong this only seems to happen in O/D it must be that lugging the engine in O/D created much more heat. even at low RPMs. but it could also all be in timing, im not expert.
I did however get the Motor vac Carbon clean service done. I suppose that a injector or two could be too shitty to fix or carbon was too stubborn to clean chemically. I wonder if anyone with the S/C has gone though the trouble to manually clean cylinders or replace injectors to find improvements.
I had always planned on adding water/meth injection. At first i thought I could add the SNOW stage 1 kit with the smallest nozzle and spray starting at 1psi, then the 7th would help with timing and and extra fuel needed. Now im not so sure. I was told that spraying at 1psi is too low and i would dflood the engine. I looked at the Aquamist and it almost looks at though it would completely replace the 7th. Itas pricey for sure and im not entirely sure how it works or how to tune it but if anybody has anything to say about their controller or know any forum members with that kit id like to hear it. It could very well be overkill for a S/C pushing 11psi (with the 2.1 pulley hopefully someday)
Speedy, I know you run a Devils Own with some extra parts but what PSI do you have your running and do you have any kind of Water/Meth controller?
I ended up trying a WOT run with O/D off in 4th gear starting at about 50mph. I Dont know if I leaned out or was too rich but as I was gaining speed and RPMs my truck all the sudden lost power and I slowed down all while my foot was on the gas. I don't think it was all the way down but it was close. I was not able to get an eye on the wideband or OBD tool, it was totally unexpected.
So I scrapped my current maps and went back to the stock maps but kept the Over Pressure at 1psi. this is with the stock pulley....now my AFRs are in the mid 13s on low RPM boosting and drops as RPMs go up and going into open loop. I also activated ECT PWR which helps kick out of O/D to avoid the HG/LR ping. With the stock maps I don't get any audible ping unless im lugging up a incline in O/D too long so ill avoid it for now.
Now, if you read the tuning guide it explains that a lean top end lowers timing advance which results in a less chance of ping. So this may have helped me in the ping area, since I leaned out, but im not 100% sure. I'm a bit apprehensive to go WOT again because I don't want to lean out again and, for now, a less aggressive timing curve is less stressful and therefore a good thing for me. I don't ever find the need to have my RPMs way up anyway. Especially since I need to do the Transgo valve body kit and install my Trans cooler. When the trans is safe ill have more fun with that.
Now, what i find irritating and really confusing about this entire process that the AIC tuning guide is not really clear about a few things.
this is directly from the AIC tune guide.
"While the ECU is still in CLOSED LOOP mode you
may see the fuel trims moving very positive in an attempted to maintain the
CLOSED LOOP fuel mixture the ECU is programmed to maintain. If you see this
start adding fuel with injector control map to attempt to move those positive fuel
trims back toward ZERO."
Sounds simple enough right? until it tells you that you cant tune closed loop with the AIC alone. And that you're going to need a $250 o2 or AFR calibrator. It would have been fantastic if this was mentioned PRIOR to purchasing a $900 kit. But reading more and gathering information from many different threads and forums I've come to understand that my AIC does have a closed loop calibrator somewhat similar to the devise stated above. Its just less controllable than a separate unit. How much more im not sure but i do believe that the AFR calibrator has its own map.
What I find very confusing is the fact that it seems as though you simply add fuel with the injector when you see the trims going too positive. Well apparently it ain't so. Here's (#17) a quote from URD explaining that you don't cancel fuel trims with the 7th injector. So which is it? what am i missing?
now on to timing.
The AIC tune guide explains that when you retard timing in the map you should see those values reflected on the scan tool. I have not been able to replicate this. In fact, talking with split second, you wont see any change in the timing on the scan tool with changes on the map. weird.
Now, I did not record stock timing so i guess I really don't know where my timing should be. So, Like others all I can do is tune the ping out. But when I really don't understand something I work at it until i get it.
My timing is
15 idle
mostly 20 in vaccum
14.5-17 in 4th gear 1-7psi
18-21 in O/D lugging up hills in boost
Im fully expecting to watch it all drop and get more ping when it gets 30-40 degrees hotter.
Considerations
Im wondering how much of this ping, if any at all, is due to clogged injectors or carbon on the pistons. I noticed that when I do ping In O/D i have to ride it for a bit to get any ping, at that point it does seem to come from one side of the engine. If it is in one or a few cylinders it must be that I've run into detonation territory from either a clogged injector or stubborn carbon buildup. Considerong this only seems to happen in O/D it must be that lugging the engine in O/D created much more heat. even at low RPMs. but it could also all be in timing, im not expert.
I did however get the Motor vac Carbon clean service done. I suppose that a injector or two could be too shitty to fix or carbon was too stubborn to clean chemically. I wonder if anyone with the S/C has gone though the trouble to manually clean cylinders or replace injectors to find improvements.
I had always planned on adding water/meth injection. At first i thought I could add the SNOW stage 1 kit with the smallest nozzle and spray starting at 1psi, then the 7th would help with timing and and extra fuel needed. Now im not so sure. I was told that spraying at 1psi is too low and i would dflood the engine. I looked at the Aquamist and it almost looks at though it would completely replace the 7th. Itas pricey for sure and im not entirely sure how it works or how to tune it but if anybody has anything to say about their controller or know any forum members with that kit id like to hear it. It could very well be overkill for a S/C pushing 11psi (with the 2.1 pulley hopefully someday)
Speedy, I know you run a Devils Own with some extra parts but what PSI do you have your running and do you have any kind of Water/Meth controller?
Speedy
Member
Hit my youtube channel www.youtube.com/speedysgarage I have videos of my full water/meth install, setup, and the results with logs. I think you'll find it very useful.
1psi is too low for sure, it'll bog the engine. I'd say spend the extra coin and use a progressive controller as you can dial in AFR a bit more tightly which I've found important to performance on these 3.4 engines.
Mine's a coolingmist CMGS. Reasonably priced. I did buy some devil's own nozzles just because they were quite a bit cheaper. I ended up with a 7gph I believe, but reference the video.
I start the spray at 4psi and I think cut it off at 16psi, even though I never hit 16psi and max out at 11. That is where the progressive controller is handy, you can dial in the AFR rather than all or nothing.
I love the setup and it made a HUGE difference in power.
Your ping is from timnig at boost and low RPM for sure. Timing cruising around isn't really all that relevant. WOT timing however is relevant.
I think what you'll find, and what I show in my logs, is that the timnig will start off at say 9 deg at lower RPM and timing advance climbs with RPM, as you'd expect. With the water meth I top out at like 20 or 21 degrees which is awesome. Prior to water/meth it was like 12 or so. Timing makes an engine happy as long as you can avoid detonation.
1psi is too low for sure, it'll bog the engine. I'd say spend the extra coin and use a progressive controller as you can dial in AFR a bit more tightly which I've found important to performance on these 3.4 engines.
Mine's a coolingmist CMGS. Reasonably priced. I did buy some devil's own nozzles just because they were quite a bit cheaper. I ended up with a 7gph I believe, but reference the video.
I start the spray at 4psi and I think cut it off at 16psi, even though I never hit 16psi and max out at 11. That is where the progressive controller is handy, you can dial in the AFR rather than all or nothing.
I love the setup and it made a HUGE difference in power.
Your ping is from timnig at boost and low RPM for sure. Timing cruising around isn't really all that relevant. WOT timing however is relevant.
I think what you'll find, and what I show in my logs, is that the timnig will start off at say 9 deg at lower RPM and timing advance climbs with RPM, as you'd expect. With the water meth I top out at like 20 or 21 degrees which is awesome. Prior to water/meth it was like 12 or so. Timing makes an engine happy as long as you can avoid detonation.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
If you aren't tuning in open loop (that's pretty much with the gas pedal all the way to the floor) and instead in closed loop, the ECU is going to trim out ALL of your fuel adjustments, every time, without skewing the O2 sensor like you figured out. On my piggyback, in closed loop, I have not event touched the fuel maps even once. It's all O2 sensor skewing until I'm at around 9 PSI and/or over 4,000 RPM. That's when it kicks into open loop and my fuel map adjustments come into play.
Tuning from the fuel trims is not a good way to tune it since once you add or take away fuel the ECU will change and do the opposite of what you just did. You don't want them way out of hand (like +/- 20) but they don't affect a whole lot. I don't even monitor mine anymore since my injectors are the perfect amount for the boost I am making.
[MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION], how do you measure your timing? I have the Torque Pro app but haven't found a good way to measure timing from it. I have a ~2.8 gph nozzle with my 310 cc injectors, I had a ~8 gph nozzle in it before the injectors and AEM unit but it was too hard for me to control with that much meth going in. Plus it didn't atomize well to all 6 cylinders.
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Speedy
Member
I also use Torque Pro and there is a PID for Ignition Advance, that's your timing. You'll want to log that with RPM, MAP, TPS, and I think I also did MPH. You can then export the data to CSV from Torque and put it to an Excel file to create a graph. Kind of a PITA, but he only way I've found to get a good look at what's going on. I think I made a post about it in my water/meth thread linked in my sig with some screen shots.
I'm using the URD 7th injector with MAF calibrator or whatever it's called that manipulates part throttle boost enrichment and I found it very easy to setup and tune. When I added the water/meth I had to just about disable the 7th and was able to completely zero out the timing map. With your lager injectors you'll just have to play with it to find the sweet spot, but you'll know when you're there. The truck will pull like you won't believe.
