WAMPA Jr. Build

[5thGen4Runner2015]

Added a rack this week, Front Runner with universal track and 40/50mm feet to keep things low profile.

Very interested in this rack... not sure if I need the full length or if the 3/4 would suffice. Plus, would really prefer not to drill. Did you install yourself? If so, how was the drilling?

And I believe you had a Gobi Rack on your previous truck? Why did you go with FR this time over the Gobi? Thanks!

 

[JSparky]

Very interested in this rack... not sure if I need the full length or if the 3/4 would suffice. Plus, would really prefer not to drill. Did you install yourself? If so, how was the drilling?

And I believe you had a Gobi Rack on your previous truck? Why did you go with FR this time over the Gobi? Thanks!

I went with FrontRunner this time for two reasons, it’s made out of aluminum (no rust) and has a sliding table tray. The Gobi was great, didn’t make much noise with their fairing, and can be installed in an hour or two, so there’s something to be said for that.

I’m sure the sides FrontRunner makes install easily too, I just wanted to keep things as low as possible hence going with the universal tracks.

Drilling was easy, torquing the bolts is probably the hardest part. I installed the track where the factory mounting locations are, then placed the front towers on and marked where to drill such that I could get the bolts as far forward as possible. I measured everything multiple times but it really wasn’t that hard, just time consuming. To put it this way, I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again.

I’m still fiddling with the table slide. I don’t want to bump up to 50/60mm feet cause I like how low it sits. Over the next week or two I’m going to rearrange the feet and see if I can fit the table over the passenger side front seat, it looks like there’s clearance there.

Any case, it’s a great rack and I love the mounting system. The Gobi did make less noise though, their fairing design is great. The flat rack is just so damn functional though!

Hope that helps! FrontRunner has been great for support on the phone, I wouldn’t hesitate to give them a call. The 3/4 rack probably doesn’t need drilling either.

 

[Cymon]

Completed some wiring work the last two days. Thanks to [MENTION=112177]4RnR Grl[/MENTION] for her Youtube video detailing how to pull the dash apart, it was a big help.

I mounted a 6-switch panel in the lower dash and hooked up an LED bar on the roof. Also pre-wired all the switches with labeled leads so I don't have to pull the whole dash apart as I add things. I'm loving how the 6-swtich panel fits in the factory location, somebody at Toyota must have been paying attention.

If I add any more electrical other than the one light bar i’ll Go this route, looks great!

Love the Wampa light switch...I just have a Squatch!

 

[5thGen4Runner2015]

I went with FrontRunner this time for two reasons, it’s made out of aluminum (no rust) and has a sliding table tray. The Gobi was great, didn’t make much noise with their fairing, and can be installed in an hour or two, so there’s something to be said for that.



I’m sure the sides FrontRunner makes install easily too, I just wanted to keep things as low as possible hence going with the universal tracks.



Drilling was easy, torquing the bolts is probably the hardest part. I installed the track where the factory mounting locations are, then placed the front towers on and marked where to drill such that I could get the bolts as far forward as possible. I measured everything multiple times but it really wasn’t that hard, just time consuming. To put it this way, I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again.



I’m still fiddling with the table slide. I don’t want to bump up to 50/60mm feet cause I like how low it sits. Over the next week or two I’m going to rearrange the feet and see if I can fit the table over the passenger side front seat, it looks like there’s clearance there.



Any case, it’s a great rack and I love the mounting system. The Gobi did make less noise though, their fairing design is great. The flat rack is just so damn functional though!



Hope that helps! FrontRunner has been great for support on the phone, I wouldn’t hesitate to give them a call. The 3/4 rack probably doesn’t need drilling either.

Thanks for the response! That is very helpful. It’s definitely solidifying my decision to go with this rack. Now I just need to decide whether I want to go with 3/4 or drill for the full length!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JSparky]

If I add any more electrical other than the one light bar i’ll Go this route, looks great!

Love the Wampa light switch...I just have a Squatch!

Nice! Yea, OTRATTW can customize the text for a modest price so I went for it. I like those factory style switches though too but I’ve already got them used up so the switch panel seemed like the next cleanest route.

 

[JSparky]

Rack Update: Table Slide

I got the under-rack table slide fitted today. The table is mounted up front, passenger side exit. I could not clear the antenna without stepping up to larger towers, which I did not want to do.

Note that I did have to cut one of the table tray's in order to clear the crown in the roof. How I did it retained two bolts per side, which I feel is adequately strong to support the table. I will be installing some thicker felt along the table trays to help clearance the table from the roof even more.

Overall it's tight but is exactly what I was looking for, so I'm happy.

 

[Yelkceb]

Some of you may know that I'm running Dobinsons C59-701V rear coils. These are a super heavy weight capacity progressive coil which works well for what I'm doing, but it does tend to ride high when unloaded. Small price to pay for having a decent ride unloaded while not bottoming out on the trail. When running light I'm a full 2.5'' taller than my buddy's truck on OME mediums.

Anyways, I've had a slight rumble grumble when coasting and after inspecting everything noted the transfer case side u-joint on my rear driveshaft was not super happy, weeping quite a bit of grease. I've been down this road numerous times and went ahead and had a rear double cardan shaft made. 1310 Spicer non-greasable joints have held up well for me on two other vehicles so went with them, my driveline shop wouldn't recommend anything else either and I've had nothing but good experiences with them so I trust their call.

Quick trip around the block and things are smoothed out, waiting on CaliFab to get me some rear links so I can tweak my pinion angle. Not too many discussions on here regarding double cardan shafts for the taller trucks so thought I'd throw this out there for anyone else in a similar boat.

With a DC Shaft isn't the pinion supposed to be pointing at the output of the T-Case? I know stock wish SC it's supposed to be parallel.

 

[JSparky]

With a DC Shaft isn't the pinion supposed to be pointing at the output of the T-Case? I know stock wish SC it's supposed to be parallel.

Correct, I installed adjustable links shortly after to align the pinion up. Good catch.

 

[rochmpr]

Some of you may know that I'm running Dobinsons C59-701V rear coils. These are a super heavy weight capacity progressive coil which works well for what I'm doing, but it does tend to ride high when unloaded. Small price to pay for having a decent ride unloaded while not bottoming out on the trail. When running light I'm a full 2.5'' taller than my buddy's truck on OME mediums.

Anyways, I've had a slight rumble grumble when coasting and after inspecting everything noted the transfer case side u-joint on my rear driveshaft was not super happy, weeping quite a bit of grease. I've been down this road numerous times and went ahead and had a rear double cardan shaft made. 1310 Spicer non-greasable joints have held up well for me on two other vehicles so went with them, my driveline shop wouldn't recommend anything else either and I've had nothing but good experiences with them so I trust their call.

Quick trip around the block and things are smoothed out, waiting on CaliFab to get me some rear links so I can tweak my pinion angle. Not too many discussions on here regarding double cardan shafts for the taller trucks so thought I'd throw this out there for anyone else in a similar boat.

Don't know how I missed this. Hmmm, if you don't mind, what did that shaft run you (you can PM me). We are running similar set-ups and I was looking at needing to point the rear diff at the case to get better clearance on the upper links hitting the top of the gas tank.

 

[Scharfschütze]

Some of you may know that I'm running Dobinsons C59-701V rear coils. These are a super heavy weight capacity progressive coil which works well for what I'm doing, but it does tend to ride high when unloaded. Small price to pay for having a decent ride unloaded while not bottoming out on the trail. When running light I'm a full 2.5'' taller than my buddy's truck on OME mediums.

Anyways, I've had a slight rumble grumble when coasting and after inspecting everything noted the transfer case side u-joint on my rear driveshaft was not super happy, weeping quite a bit of grease. I've been down this road numerous times and went ahead and had a rear double cardan shaft made. 1310 Spicer non-greasable joints have held up well for me on two other vehicles so went with them, my driveline shop wouldn't recommend anything else either and I've had nothing but good experiences with them so I trust their call.

Quick trip around the block and things are smoothed out, waiting on CaliFab to get me some rear links so I can tweak my pinion angle. Not too many discussions on here regarding double cardan shafts for the taller trucks so thought I'd throw this out there for anyone else in a similar boat.

Do you expect this is because of the C59-701v coil giving you "too much" lift or other reasons? I am still debating what to do for rear springs, im really sagging now that I got drawers, but I'd love to avoid getting new drive shafts if possible for that missing 1" i need. TY!

 

[rochmpr]

Do you expect this is because of the C59-701v coil giving you "too much" lift or other reasons? I am still debating what to do for rear springs, im really sagging now that I got drawers, but I'd love to avoid getting new drive shafts if possible for that missing 1" i need. TY!

You can still run the stock drive shaft. Both [MENTION=96425]JSparky[/MENTION] and I are running those springs. I am still on the stock shaft with no issues. Although I am contemplating doing the same drive shaft in order in hopes of eliminating the upper lind from hitting the gas tank on full droop.

 

[JSparky]

Do you expect this is because of the C59-701v coil giving you "too much" lift or other reasons? I am still debating what to do for rear springs, im really sagging now that I got drawers, but I'd love to avoid getting new drive shafts if possible for that missing 1" i need. TY!

So, it’s probably important to be perfectly clear on the chain of events.

I was getting some minor vibes but more importantly oil leakage with the factory driveline and factory rear control arms. Technically I should have installed adjustable rear control arms first, to correct diff pinion.. that may have solved the issue.

Instead, to save myself a headache that I’ve had before on other vehicles, and after checking all the angles and the amount of travel I’ve got in back, I decided to just fix it all at once.. hence the double cardan. I really didn’t want to risk any transfer case issues and his solves everything.

If your vehicle weight calls for it, I say go for the coils plus a set of rear lower links to correct pinion, then go from there. Did I answer your question? Sorry it was a bit long winded.

Edit: yes I believe it was due to a combination of height and uncorrected diff pinion.

 

[Scharfschütze]

You can still run the stock drive shaft. Both [MENTION=96425]JSparky[/MENTION] and I are running those springs. I am still on the stock shaft with no issues. Although I am contemplating doing the same drive shaft in order in hopes of eliminating the upper lind from hitting the gas tank on full droop.

Awesome thanks! I saw your thread about modding the gas tank skid. I have the c4 fab one...wonder if its going to be an issue...probably as its huge. Love your truck man...shes a beaut.

So, it’s probably important to be perfectly clear on the chain of events.

I was getting some minor vibes but more importantly oil leakage with the factory driveline and factory rear control arms. Technically I should have installed adjustable rear control arms first, to correct diff pinion.. that may have solved the issue.

Instead, to save myself a headache that I’ve had before on other vehicles, and after checking all the angles and the amount of travel I’ve got in back, I decided to just fix it all at once.. hence the double cardan. I really didn’t want to risk any transfer case issues and his solves everything.

If your vehicle weight calls for it, I say go for the coils plus a set of rear lower links to correct pinion, then go from there. Did I answer your question? Sorry it was a bit long winded.

Edit: yes I believe it was due to a combination of height and uncorrected diff pinion.

Totally answered my questions and probably sold me on the coils, thank you! I've got a CBI bumper, hardshell RTT, drawers and a snomaster, its getting pretty saggy back there with the icon overland springs. I am also looking for an excuse to upgrade to long travel rear shocks. So I'll grab a link kit, the coils and a panhard bar and hopefully be ok. What did the driveshafts run you if you dont mind sharing?

 

[JSparky]

Changed some things around. Had a 4x4Labs front bumper installed, 30” LED bar, swapped wire rope for synthetic, and replaced the winch hook with a Flatlink.

My old Demello bumper is for sale, open to offers. Nothing wrong with it and comes with the metal filler plate, just wanted to take a different route.

 

[JSparky]

Had new carriers put on as well, these with fold out tabs. They put a cutting board on one and a commercial baking sheet on the other. Thinking I may add some hooks for tongs and a spatula.

 

[rochmpr]

Had new carriers put on as well, these with fold out tabs. They put a cutting board on one and a commercial baking sheet on the other. Thinking I may add some hooks for tongs and a spatula.

Damn, you making me want to give more money to Luke. Like I said I long time ago, he should give out shirts that say I went broke at 4x4Labs

 

[JSparky]

Damn, you making me want to give more money to Luke. Like I said I long time ago, he should give out shirts that say I went

Right haha, I could totally see that.. the range and capacity of what they can build is amazing.

 

[JSparky]

Messing around with the tables, for shorter trips I don't think I 'll have to pack a full size table anymore which is really convenient for me.

 

[greatape]

looking good!

 

[JSparky]

looking good!

Thanks man!