JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
You can test the WP anytime. You can leave the TS out so you don't have to wait for warmup for the TS to open. I mentioned this but it was buried a bit. I can be a little long-winded if you can't tell already.
Well this is a pisser b/c no one seems to know what to do now, including me.
- Thread starter flygirl0344
- Start date
You can test the WP anytime. You can leave the TS out so you don't have to wait for warmup for the TS to open. I mentioned this but it was buried a bit. I can be a little long-winded if you can't tell already.
flygirl0344
New member
LOL, i need detailed instructions..just like youre giving me! Ok so, I ordered the OEM rad. So now, I'll go test the wp. I don't have a torque wrench so I'm just guessing as how much to tighten the bolts but I assume if it's leaking around the housing I need to tighten more?
Or if it's ok, I'll just put the TS back in. I don't need for it to "heat up" if I'm just testing the wp, right?
Or if it's ok, I'll just put the TS back in. I don't need for it to "heat up" if I'm just testing the wp, right?
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
What bolts are you tightening? Oh the housing nuts. If it leaks al little that fine. Without the TS with the oring it probably will leak a little bit. Pump should still move that water
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flygirl0344
New member
wp housing
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
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flygirl0344
New member
I tried the reverse flush several times and it didn't help...pulled the top rad hose off and stuck water hose in there and ran it for 30 sec...no water came out the top hose.. so I guess it's bad wp. Went to 3 shops yesterday for quote on install rad, tb/wp kit, drive belts etc. One shop guy told me that "water hose test" is not reliable b/c the system needs to be completely "closed" for the wp to pump the water out. He also said I could have all of the above installed (me supplying OEM parts) and it still overheat meaning it could be the HG. I suppose he is right, however, I'm not from here so don't know who to trust for repair work. I was gonna do a HG chem test but it appears that the block needs to be full of coolant NOT water, which, after testing mine is completely empty of either. :noidea:
Quotes from 3 diff shops for installing the above range from $1200 (out the door) -$1,400 + tax, shop charges etc.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Quotes from 3 diff shops for installing the above range from $1200 (out the door) -$1,400 + tax, shop charges etc.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
When getting quotes for the time belt /wp just ask for a quote to replace the wp FIRST. Then ask to add in only the cost for the parts for the radiator and tb. Alot of places like to total the individual labor for replacing the tb and radiator
So if some ask how much to change just the tb it could be $500 out the door. Then just the WP could be $900 out the door. Then if someone wants both the total the two together $1400 when in fact you have to remove the TB when changing the wp. Common practice by Chicagoland toyota dealers.
To get the best deal you have to play the game and do your research. But you can save a lot of money.
Also check to make sure that the valve that sends fluid to the heater core is moving when you change the temp settings. Slight possibility it could be stuck.
So if some ask how much to change just the tb it could be $500 out the door. Then just the WP could be $900 out the door. Then if someone wants both the total the two together $1400 when in fact you have to remove the TB when changing the wp. Common practice by Chicagoland toyota dealers.
To get the best deal you have to play the game and do your research. But you can save a lot of money.
Also check to make sure that the valve that sends fluid to the heater core is moving when you change the temp settings. Slight possibility it could be stuck.
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flygirl0344
New member
Sooo, This overheating is still a mystery to me. I’ve tried a lot of diff dx (diagnostic) stuff, including an engine block test and still don’t know what’s wrong.The quotes (3 diff shops) I got here in St Pete for tb,wp and rad labor costs (that’s w me supplying parts) were between $1,200-$1,400. My childhood friend who owns a shop 4 hours away in my hometown, said price should between $500-$600 for labor. I’m having in delivered ($250) to him on Monday. I’ll report back here when I find out what the issue is.
Anyone ever used a vehicle transport service? I’ve got many quotes and $250 seems to be ab average for door to door delivery on a 3- car transport truck. Anything I need to look out for using this type of service, other than paying when the truck is dropped off, license, bonded, insured...?
Thanks in advance.
Anyone ever used a vehicle transport service? I’ve got many quotes and $250 seems to be ab average for door to door delivery on a 3- car transport truck. Anything I need to look out for using this type of service, other than paying when the truck is dropped off, license, bonded, insured...?
Thanks in advance.
jgue467
Senior Member
Yes I'd say labor s/b 5-700 depending on where in the nation.
Ever tried UShip? The game works like this, you place a post offering the job and you name the price. Obviously go lower than the quotes you already have to get a bargain. Then the shippers either agree/disagree. You charge the cost to your card but the transporter only gets paid when its delivered and signed off on by You with a code you provide them from the system.
Luck and let us know how the repairs turn out. :cowboy:
Ever tried UShip? The game works like this, you place a post offering the job and you name the price. Obviously go lower than the quotes you already have to get a bargain. Then the shippers either agree/disagree. You charge the cost to your card but the transporter only gets paid when its delivered and signed off on by You with a code you provide them from the system.
Luck and let us know how the repairs turn out. :cowboy:
Red October
Member
So, after just reading thru your first post of symptoms and then browsing thru the rest of the thread. My recommendation would be to chem test for a blown Head Gasket. The fact that the cooling system seems to pressurize too quickly and the top hose getting hot while the bottom stays cool seems to indicate combustion gasses and heat entering getting into the cooling system. Replacing water pumps and radiators and hoses is going to be a good idea either way, but throwing parts at it before doing some proper diagnostics is going to end up costing more money and frustration in the long run than finding the cause and fixing it directly.
Sorry if that's already been covered...
Sorry if that's already been covered...
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flygirl0344
New member
After a month she's back on the road. I live in St Pete and I still came out cheaper to have a flatbed take her to Tallahassee for repair than have it done here!
Ahh but why was she overheating...? The water pump was completely locked up. The idler pulley was purple it got so hot too. I had never seen that before..it was quite interesting.
My guy in Tallahassee installed rad, TB, WP, Therm, pulleys and all the other stuff that came in the kit, in addition to drive belts and lower ball joints. I asked him to do the brakes too but he said they were good. I bought the parts- all OEM- and had them shipped to him and he installed everything..for $900, in case any one was wondering.
I just ordered new plugs and wires which I'll replace once they arrive.
After I got her back and was cruising around town, she turned 192k miles. She has never left me stranded, not even this situation. I had just parked in my driveway, smelled something, popped the hood and saw coolant everywhere...and then this -month long- hunt for why she was overheating began. I'll always have this truck and always take BETTER care of her!
Thanks for everyone's help here. Esp JRZ! IT is all appreciated!
Ahh but why was she overheating...? The water pump was completely locked up. The idler pulley was purple it got so hot too. I had never seen that before..it was quite interesting.
My guy in Tallahassee installed rad, TB, WP, Therm, pulleys and all the other stuff that came in the kit, in addition to drive belts and lower ball joints. I asked him to do the brakes too but he said they were good. I bought the parts- all OEM- and had them shipped to him and he installed everything..for $900, in case any one was wondering.
I just ordered new plugs and wires which I'll replace once they arrive.
After I got her back and was cruising around town, she turned 192k miles. She has never left me stranded, not even this situation. I had just parked in my driveway, smelled something, popped the hood and saw coolant everywhere...and then this -month long- hunt for why she was overheating began. I'll always have this truck and always take BETTER care of her!
Thanks for everyone's help here. Esp JRZ! IT is all appreciated!
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