What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Installed this Reload Offroad rack
 

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Replaced old Charcoal Canister (P0440 engine code) with a new OEM charcoal canister. Took 3 1/2 hours to complete job.
 
Started a big job of swapping everything from the 99 4Runner in my signature to a new to me 2000 one that's in much better shape that has almost no rust. Also putting new ECGS diffs in. 4.88 gears with front and rear Eaton e-lockers. I'll probably turn the other one into a rock crawler and drive it in the winter to keep the new one rust free.
 
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I replaced the rear lower SPC control arms yesterday w/ Mevotech Supreme parts. The SPC rubber bushings that mount to the frame side were torn. The xAxis flex joint on the axle side was kinda floppy on the driver's side unit, which also had the worst bushing. These lasted less than 3 years and maybe 7K miles. I did NO hardcore wheeling at all. Forest roads or green trails only, plus street driving. I torqued everything at ride height. These are supposed to be the Heavy-Duty option... I've now gone through 3 sets of rear lower links on this truck. I didn't bother buying new Toyota parts since those failed as well. I wish I had never got the grizzly locker...
 
Replaced the heater control valve on my '99. It was original, 26 years old. Showing some signs of the black plastic turning to brown on the top of the valve. Apparently I did it just in the nick of time. I moved the spring hose clamps over, and then (gently, mind you) tried twisting the hose to break the stiction and the fitting immediately broke right off. The other side broke even more easily. It was incredibly close to breaking just sitting there.

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Fished the broken crumbly bits out of the heater hoses and put the new valve back in. Good for another couple of decades.
 
Got the steering rack, all of the front suspension, and the front diff out. Going to clean it all up under there real good and then begin the process of tearing down the other 4Runner.
 
Replaced the heater control valve on my '99. It was original, 26 years old. Showing some signs of the black plastic turning to brown on the top of the valve. Apparently I did it just in the nick of time. I moved the spring hose clamps over, and then (gently, mind you) tried twisting the hose to break the stiction and the fitting immediately broke right off. The other side broke even more easily. It was incredibly close to breaking just sitting there.

fwu7gZol.jpg


Fished the broken crumbly bits out of the heater hoses and put the new valve back in. Good for another couple of decades.

Same thing happened to my heater control valve when I replaced it. The plastic fittings crumbled apart & had to fish the broken pieces out of the hoses.
 
I am trying to diagnose why the transmission wont shift in D. Changed one solenoid with got rid of the CEL but still wont shift in D. Can shift manually. Mechanic thinks its the valve body but I am not convinced.
 
Thats clean contemplating such curious of bore diameter you ended with.

This is a very low mile engine, that sat for many years, I picked up from a guy that started a project and never completed. He had the heads rebuilt and was going to slap just run the block side as it sat. I only bring this up to make the point the bottom end was is really good shape, all the bearing could have been reused but being this far in it was better to just finish it correctly IMO.

The block needed to be resurfaced to make sure the MLS head gaskets had a good RA and because visually it was clear it needed a fresh surface. Had the crank polished and replaced all the mains and connecting rod bearings with OEM Toyota bearing with the same numbers installed in the block. Reused the original piston (again in great shape) and just had the cylinders honed for a standard bore ring set.
 
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