riceandpho
Elite Member
thanks, i only need to find some hoses for the return line, i guess the cheapest solution is buy couple feet of the transmission fluid rated hose. i get a little bit of residue right now around the return line and reservoir.
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
thanks, i only need to find some hoses for the return line, i guess the cheapest solution is buy couple feet of the transmission fluid rated hose. i get a little bit of residue right now around the return line and reservoir.
Forty6and2Ahead
New member
Replaced spark plugs. Autozone only had NGK double platinum in stock so paid a few extra dollars. The previous Denso copper had about 32k when changed.
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Not all rubber hoses are created equal. While some rubber fuel hoses may work, it's generally a good idea to get one that's specific for your application since oil can break down some rubbers. J189 rated rubber hoses are what you want for power steering systems.
The return line on the power steering reservoir looks like the same size as the one on the power steering rack which is 3/8" ID but I would double check to make sure.
3/8" J189 Hose:
Amazon.com: Edelmann 71236 Power Steering Return Hose: Automotive
Warwicke36
New member
Well, my aftermarket garbage exhaust rotted off (had to zip tie it to the cross-member to stop it from rattling)... I didn't really want a performance exhaust, but I did want stainless. So I bit the bullet and looked until I found a Gibson on sale. I got the black tip stainless elite for $379 shipped, so I was happy with the price. Got it installed today in 40 minutes. As recommended I stuffed a screw driver handle between the pipe and cross member before tightening the clamps. I do not have any rattles as some have had. The exhaust is deep and louder than stock at idle up to about 2300 RPM then I don't notice a difference. So far I do like it.
If you buy this exhaust here are my tips.
1) buy a new donut gasket as it does not come with one.
2) Use the screw driver handle trick mentioned above to avoid rattles.
3) Leave all isolator hangers on the vehicle, apply a quick squirt of penetrant to each hole before install to allow the new hangers to go in easily.
4) Install the pipe over the cross member first and work in both directions off of that (you have extra pipes to fit different models, this will help you figure out which you need most easily)
5) Assemble it in the vehicle and do ALL of the hangers last. NOT by one as you go.
My only gripe with this exhaust is the tip placement shows a ton of the pipe inside it (maybe this will go away with some driving and soot) but I feel the need to take the tip off and cut a good 5 or 6 inches off the tail pipe. I will be doing so and then pushing the tip in a bit farther. Other than that this cannot be beat for the price.
If you buy this exhaust here are my tips.
1) buy a new donut gasket as it does not come with one.
2) Use the screw driver handle trick mentioned above to avoid rattles.
3) Leave all isolator hangers on the vehicle, apply a quick squirt of penetrant to each hole before install to allow the new hangers to go in easily.
4) Install the pipe over the cross member first and work in both directions off of that (you have extra pipes to fit different models, this will help you figure out which you need most easily)
5) Assemble it in the vehicle and do ALL of the hangers last. NOT by one as you go.
My only gripe with this exhaust is the tip placement shows a ton of the pipe inside it (maybe this will go away with some driving and soot) but I feel the need to take the tip off and cut a good 5 or 6 inches off the tail pipe. I will be doing so and then pushing the tip in a bit farther. Other than that this cannot be beat for the price.
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riceandpho
Elite Member
our power steering fluid is atf, so wouldnt i use a atf fluid rated hose?
xtremewlr
Member
Nelsoncody
New member
Unintentional upgrades
Weekend project started out replacing ball joints, CV Axles, and outer tie rods. Because of how these parts were sold in packages, finding seized alignment bolts, caliper cylinders, etc., final project ended up being new UCAs, LCAs, wheel hubs, rotors, brakes, plus afore mentioned CVs, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Fresh alignment and she's back on the road today. Oh, and also removed running boards.
Weekend project started out replacing ball joints, CV Axles, and outer tie rods. Because of how these parts were sold in packages, finding seized alignment bolts, caliper cylinders, etc., final project ended up being new UCAs, LCAs, wheel hubs, rotors, brakes, plus afore mentioned CVs, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Fresh alignment and she's back on the road today. Oh, and also removed running boards.
Updated. Sorry, too big to upload on the site.
xtremewlr
Member
Looks good! Assuming you fabricated new mounting brackets for it? Did you re-use the original hoses going to the stock cooler?
I'm planning on doing similar and now just might use the same cooler. Re-purpose the OEM trans cooler to a power steering cooler.
4wd issues
06 Sport v6. - switch to 4wd hi and the 4x4 lights flash and nothing happens. I think it's stuck in 4wd? Can shift to 4 lo and get the beep. When I turn it jumps so i'm assuming it's stuck in 4wd? Also the VSC light is on now.
when I switch back to 4hi light still flash. When I switch to 2wd lights stay on. When I turn hard it jumps like the rear diff is locked? Is that possible?
And the VSC stays on too.
Any suggestions? I don't want to take to dealer if I don't have too. thanks
06 Sport v6. - switch to 4wd hi and the 4x4 lights flash and nothing happens. I think it's stuck in 4wd? Can shift to 4 lo and get the beep. When I turn it jumps so i'm assuming it's stuck in 4wd? Also the VSC light is on now.
when I switch back to 4hi light still flash. When I switch to 2wd lights stay on. When I turn hard it jumps like the rear diff is locked? Is that possible?
And the VSC stays on too.
Any suggestions? I don't want to take to dealer if I don't have too. thanks
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montijo505
Senior Member
Have someone sit in the car in neutral with the switch on 4Hi. Tap from underneath with a dead blow hammer. See if anything happens. Move switch back and forth a few times as you tap on each setting. Good luck.
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I did reuse the factory lines. The bottom one (inlet) is a teeeeny bit short, but still hitting all the barbs of the fitting.
Had to bend the horn brackets up, and it sits just between the a/c and oil cooler lines. The driver side of it is angled slightly forward to help it fit, also. I just took regular flat stock and made brackets. Pretty? No. OEM looking? Notta. But, cheap, strong and effective.
Of course I pumped 3qts of new Amsoil into it before I warmed it up to check the fluid level and dumped most of that right back out.. oh well.
Dirtrider216
New member
My 06 is at 178k miles, Ive recently replaced front hubs/bearings, front calipers and rotors. Carfax shows my timing belt was done at 98K.. when do I need to start planning for another timing belt job? The dealer and car have been draining my wallet big time lately as both of my breakdowns- related to bearings and brakes- have happened while I was on the road and needed my car and didn't have another vehicle to use so I had to go to the dealer..
On the fence to just ditch the runner and get a low mile jeep TJ that's cheaper and easier to work on, to last me 1.5 more years of grad school
On the fence to just ditch the runner and get a low mile jeep TJ that's cheaper and easier to work on, to last me 1.5 more years of grad school
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How did you get the temp readings for the transmission in Torque app?
Removed factory trans cooler and replaced with the bigger B&M 70266. Used factory lines and all. Trans is staying about 20 degrees cooler per the Torque app. Now to figure out why my deep tone horn isn't working..
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Why would you use a dead blow? A dead blow is for moving things, a metal hammer can induce a lot more shock that will free up the mechanism.
xtremewlr
Member
Recommended interval for the timing belt is 95k. You can safely take that out to over 100k. Depending on how many miles you put on per year, that could be another year or more before you need to worry about doing the timing belt.
You should also learn to work on the vehicle yourself as much as possible. It will save you a ton of money in the long run.
)Dirtrider216
New member
I can do a lot on the vehicle but my apartment complex 1-doesnt have any flat parking spots to do anything with the wheels off the ground, and 2- my apartment complex fines people who do any work in their parking lots. I also have no mechanically inclined friends because apparently most people in pharmacy school have no desire to work with their hands
Brakes are also my Achilles heel. I could not bleed brakes to save my life no matter how many youtube videos I watch. Ive spent hours trying and used several bottles of brake fluid trying to bleed the brakes on my motorcycles to no avail
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