What did you do with your 4runner today?

I'd have done it living in Bend even.

You guys have been hitting some high temps lately. My mom lives in Redmond, told me it was 102 there yesterday.

Good point, yup 101 at my place east side of Bend yesterday. I’ve got in-laws south of you in Green Valley. Toasty this time of the year for you down there.
Was your Trans cooling Mod pretty straight forward? And/or key tips you can share?
 
Good point, yup 101 at my place east side of Bend yesterday. I’ve got in-laws south of you in Green Valley. Toasty this time of the year for you down there.
Was your Trans cooling Mod pretty straight forward? And/or key tips you can share?

Straight forward. Just getting the right size cooler and then figuring out the mounting. Need longer hose obviously but that's about it. I'll probably change up the routing when I get around to building a front bumper since I have a couple Magnafine inline filters to install, one each for the trans and power steering. Didn't want to mess with mounting those just yet tho. There are more pics in my build thread, linked in my sig.
 
Also yesterday. Installed the CBI passenger side ditch light bracket that I'm going to use for my CB antenna.

20200731_165845-X4.jpg
 
I installed new fuel tank support straps on my '03 V8. Next is scrape, sand, prime/paint RCI fuel tank skid which is badly rusted after about 3 years.
 
I installed new fuel tank support straps on my '03 V8. Next is scrape, sand, prime/paint RCI fuel tank skid which is badly rusted after about 3 years.
I always feel bad for the people that live in the rust belt. I'm especially grateful when I work on my cars that have lived in the southwest.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
I always feel bad for the people that live in the rust belt. I'm especially grateful when I work on my cars that have lived in the southwest.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Yes, every project is more of a battle due to rust, it's really terrible! Both strap bolts were rusted in place, rear one I twisted off so 2 hours of drilling out, the front bolt I used my new electric impact on and it broke it free and took it out.
I then spend 10-15 minutes thoroughly hand greasing the bolts and washers I put back in. When I see pictures of rigs from SW and see undercarriage makes me drool!
 
Yes, every project is more of a battle due to rust, it's really terrible! Both strap bolts were rusted in place, rear one I twisted off so 2 hours of drilling out, the front bolt I used my new electric impact on and it broke it free and took it out.

I then spend 10-15 minutes thoroughly hand greasing the bolts and washers I put back in. When I see pictures of rigs from SW and see undercarriage makes me drool!
Power tools are a game changer. I started tearing apart my suspension for a refresh on my LCA's and some other goodies and holy Batman it makes everything easier and faster. Should have bought sooner lol.

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Yes, every project is more of a battle due to rust, it's really terrible! Both strap bolts were rusted in place, rear one I twisted off so 2 hours of drilling out, the front bolt I used my new electric impact on and it broke it free and took it out.
I then spend 10-15 minutes thoroughly hand greasing the bolts and washers I put back in. When I see pictures of rigs from SW and see undercarriage makes me drool!

Power tools are a game changer. I started tearing apart my suspension for a refresh on my LCA's and some other goodies and holy Batman it makes everything easier and faster. Should have bought sooner lol.

Power tools have definitely helped me with removing crusty bolts, I also should have bought them sooner. I broke 5/8 front skid bolts after trying a bunch of penetrating fluids and letting them sit, as well as a heating a bunch. I picked up this Bauer electric impact from Harbor Freight a bit ago and its been a champ. I used a small bit of of penetrating fluid on 1/2 the tank skid bolts, and it took out every single one without issue. I believe its the intermittent torquing of the impact that keeps the bolts from shearing, I love it.

I love anti-seize too, but I always end up wearing double the amount I applied to the bolts lol

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Installed new OEM rear hatch lift supports, they're the cold spec but they seem to work fine in the heat we're having.
Edit: 100 bucks to my door all the way from Earnhardt Toyota in Mesa; the local dealer here is a joke.
 

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Just getting a chance to post on my brake replacement a couple of weeks ago, which was a breeze using this excellent video. The calipers were fine 44K miles ago when the Z36 kit was installed and I got two years & 44K miles out of my first set of PowerStop pads. They might have gone longer except for the notorious stuck caliper, which I discovered during the job (and replaced using another excellent TRQ video). I replaced the pads with the same Z36 type.

I was conflicted about the rotors b/c they looked fine, really exactly as they did in my 1-year/15K mile Z36 review. This really surprised me since it appeared a pad had been dragging. Anyway, people often replace them and say they at least have to be turned, but I called PowerStop and they said if they looked good and the original pads were properly bedded (something I took special care to do), they should be fine. I've driven 1500 miles since the brake job two weeks ago with zero issues.

This was my first brake work and I was anxious about the bleed, but I installed the SpeedBleeders I bought a couple of years ago and followed the instructions in this post with no problem. Next up is a full brake fluid flush, which I should have just done with the brakes but I was focused on getting the truck back on the road since I had work the next morning.
 
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Put some vintage style TRD stickers on it, removed the lettering from the doors and went for a casual drive down some dirt roads.

20200802_161231-X4.jpg


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Yes, every project is more of a battle due to rust, it's really terrible! Both strap bolts were rusted in place, rear one I twisted off so 2 hours of drilling out, the front bolt I used my new electric impact on and it broke it free and took it out.
I then spend 10-15 minutes thoroughly hand greasing the bolts and washers I put back in. When I see pictures of rigs from SW and see undercarriage makes me drool!

I had similar issues, the rear one broke off the frame so I had to weld a new tab onto the frame. The front one the bolt broke so I drove the internally tacked on nut out of the frame then dropped a bolt in the hole from the inside. It was a process for sure. As for the tank's skid cover, that thing was like removing a saltine cracker. There was only chunks left so it did not go back on.
 
Don't know if anyone watches Mustie1 on YT but he's from my area so deals with rust often. He suggests bar and chain oil to keep frames from deteriorating because it's so sticky. So today I brushed some on the old girl in the middle section to see how it would go. Messy but looks better than rust. I think I'll be buying a sprayer and wand soon so I can do the inside. Fluidfilm sure didn't last long.
 
Don't know if anyone watches Mustie1 on YT but he's from my area so deals with rust often. He suggests bar and chain oil to keep frames from deteriorating because it's so sticky. So today I brushed some on the old girl in the middle section to see how it would go. Messy but looks better than rust. I think I'll be buying a sprayer and wand soon so I can do the inside. Fluidfilm sure didn't last long.

Project farm did a pretty good video on this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk
 
Replaced starter on V6. Still sucked due to bolt location and getting a ratchet in there and how much it took to break the bolts loose from 15 years of being bolted.


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