What did you do with your 4runner today?

[AuSeeker]

Hey everyone!
I can't post my own thread yet, but I'm hoping someone can help me out of the hole I dug myself in. I have a 2005 V8 4WD that I got in January, so I'm still getting acquainted with it mechanically. On Sunday I started a timing belt job but hit a snag during disassembly and snapped the lower bolt for the alternator. I sprayed it with a healthy amount of PB blaster and let it sit overnight, then made the situation worse by thinking I'd be able to get it out with an extractor which also broke.

I feel like my options are:

1. Keep trying to remove the broken extractor and if I can then I'll just drill the bolt out completely like I should have
2. Drop the front differential, remove the oil pan, and pull the oil pump to drill from the back
3. Tap out and have a shop finish the work

#2 seems doable but I'm having a hard time finding directions for removing the front differential. I found write-ups for the 3rd gen but I'm not sure how much the 4th differs.

You're biggest problem will be getting the extractor out, they are made of hardened steel, you will not be able to drill it out with regular drill bits, the best option is to use a Dremel tool or drill with a diamond bit or burr attachment to grind it down and get it out, once it's out, drill out what's left of the bolt and retap, I've been there done that!!

I would definitely try that first before dropping the diff.

diamond ball burr - Search

dremel diamond bits for metal - Search

 

[Bluesky 07]

Today I started finalizing my (thankfully short) list of items to complete before next month's Kentucky Toyota Trail Ride. Brought this post over from the Off-Roading forum for additional visibility.

It's to highly recommend a terrific wheeling opportunity like the 2023 Kentucky Toyota Trail Ride. I'm stoked as I'm planning to go for the first time since 2019 (video below). This thing is all kinds of fun.

Just got the video done for this year's ride. Be sure to select the highest resolution and please excuse any inconsistent image quality; there's apparently a known issue with that when iMovie content is uploaded to YouTube. Very annoying.

<iframe width="1280" height="780" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vH6qbsBlpuc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[gaber6]

Added a transmission cooler using this link as a guide.. Transmission Cooler Installation, 2006 4.0L

Even with new fluid, radiator and cap, the radiator gets a little hot when towing over mountain passes even at 25mph. I might also consider a higher pressure cap if the cooler doesn't solve the issue.

Went to AutoZone and got the biggest generic one for about 80 or 90 bucks. It comes with just enough hose to route the bottom exit to the cooler back to the original line going to the transmission. Zipper ties through the AC fins seem to hold it nicely (and crooked because I don't care).

Been camping for 2 years in a camper and ride on some trails on the BLM land near Larime WY where I'm staying. Doable on my mostly stock setup for sure, but I understand why you all get real lifts.

 

[thegame7]

Designed and 3d printed some custom emblems. Anyone else want a set? Toyota Urban Racing Development lol

 

[thegame7]

Another quick 3D printed item. Based off a Teton shift knob, printed in PC carbon fiber. Love how velvety this filament looks

 

[momo.75]

Designed and 3d printed some custom emblems. Anyone else want a set? Toyota Urban Racing Development lol

The U looks terrible

 

[gaber6]

Put 29 miles on forest roads near Larime, WY.
Got to use differential lock a few times and needed it going up sandy, uneven step spots. Crossed a creek and decided to call it a day after realizing I was out of cellphone range and the rocks were getting damage size.

Mostly stock with 1" Daystar rear lift for the camper and kyb quickstruts up front

 

[bunzz]

Printer setup? Looks very dialed in!

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

Another quick 3D printed item. Based off a Teton shift knob, printed in PC carbon fiber. Love how velvety this filament looks

I still dig the last one I got from you but I may need this upgrade.

 

[thegame7]

I still dig the last one I got from you but I may need this upgrade.

Lol the last one I did was alright but this one is a bit taller so its comfier for resting your hand on.

 

[thegame7]

Printer setup? Looks very dialed in!

Prusa MK3S+ printing polycarbonate with carbon fibers infused in it. This filament is really my favorite just for now nice it lays down. The matte finish is really nice as well since most are glossy and show off imperfections more.

 

[Ph03n1x24]

2005 4Runner vs 2010 Tundra (just add some mud)

So our business location sits next to an empty lot currently being cleared to build a new warehouse. Right now it's mostly used for parking. It's also used as a turn-around to leave. (important factoid)

However, after a heavy rainfall this clay/dirt lot turns into a mud wallow that would challenge the toughest 4 wheeling mud runner as the clay will suck you in and hold you fast, not to mention being slicker than owl sh*t attempting to gain traction.

Yesterday one of our brilliant techs decided to use said lot as a turn-around while pulling a trailer behind our company 2010 Tundra. Problem is we'd just received a massive amount of rain and had more on the way. We had to get it unstuck and back to work.

So, I had the brilliant idea to attempt a rescue with my 2005 4Runner 2WD with a tow strap. Although I was able to drop the trailer and pull him out of the rut he'd made I couldn't do the job of pulling him out completely.
Then CRAP, I got stuck myself!

I was eventually able to wriggle my way out of my mud prison and make it to safety. No such luck for the Tundra - a heavy duty wrecker with a winch had to save the day. $$$

2005 4Runner vs Texas mud wallow = I'll put this in the WIN category against the Tundra.

PSA: Although a 4Runner always looks better covered in mud I would NOT advise taking on Texas mud after a hard rain with your 2WD 4Runner!

Good times!

 

[pjbrownva]

I added tow mirrors designed for a Tacoma.

I had to mark and drill new holes for the 3 studs that hold the mirror on and use an angle grinder to shorten the studs. I'm very happy since I can now SEE while backing up with the boat attached!

First photo is with the mirrors up for tow mode. Second photo is down for "regular" mode.

 

[Bluesky 07]

I replaced all 6 brake hoses with stainless steel. Used Stoptech front & rear and 20” Trail Gear for the two rear center lines. Here are some notes that may be helpful to anyone taking this on.

- First, shoutout to [MENTION=3312]tv4184[/MENTION] for the brilliant idea of removing the brackets and old hoses so you can swap them out on your workbench. The definition of working smarter, not harder, especially b/c the Trail Gear hoses differ from the OEM style. You have to fit a c-ring on one side so the OEM clip can secure the fitting to the bracket. I can’t imagine trying to do that under the truck.

Ready to reinstall.

- Stoptech provides caps for the ends of the hard lines but they were useless since the opening was way too small to go over the flared end. Luckily, these caulk tube sealers worked. They’re designed to roll down onto the tip of a caulk tube like a condom. They popped right on and prevented fluid drips even without having to unroll them.

- If I had a do-over, I wouldn’t buy Stoptech or the 20” Trail Gear hoses. One of the Stoptech hoses was really tough to get seated. Drip, drip, drip until I finally got it right and tight. Then the rear lines had L & R stickers on them. My assumption is that L = driver’s side, right? Either they don’t see it that way or the stickers were just reversed. That was annoying.

No issues with the center hoses, I would just buy 16” lengths next time b/c my truck is only mildly lifted so they’re on the long side. BTW, I somehow ended up with 2 sets of those so I’ll be listing the unopened surplus set for sale.

- Once the spare is removed and the rear end on jackstands, you can do the center hoses and both rear hoses without removing the wheels.

Bleeding was no issue. Maybe I’m wrong but there seems to be a lot of angst over bleeding b/c of the ABS and such. Not saying it isn’t a challenge but my understanding is that you only need the simple front/rear line procedure unless you replace one of the major components.

Brake pedal travel and feel didn’t change much but the same effort yields a quicker and firmer response.

 

[tv4184]

I replaced all 6 brake hoses with stainless steel. Used Stoptech front & rear and 20” Trail Gear for the two rear center lines. Here are some notes that may be helpful to anyone taking this on.

- First, shoutout to [MENTION=3312]tv4184[/MENTION] for the brilliant idea of removing the brackets and old hoses so you can swap them out on your workbench. The definition of working smarter, not harder, especially b/c the Trail Gear hoses differ from the OEM style. You have to fit a c-ring on one side so the OEM clip can secure the fitting to the bracket. I can’t imagine trying to do that under the truck.

Brake pedal travel and feel didn’t change much but the same effort yields a quicker and firmer response.

Very nice. I'm glad you were able to get something out of my one off thread. I feel that ss lines in the end are just a placebo effect anyway. I'm about to have to do it on my 200 series I just bought. Another fun project about to go up.

 

[earthrealm]

Put 29 miles on forest roads near Larime, WY.
Got to use differential lock a few times and needed it going up sandy, uneven step spots. Crossed a creek and decided to call it a day after realizing I was out of cellphone range and the rocks were getting damage size.

Mostly stock with 1" Daystar rear lift for the camper and kyb quickstruts up front

am a lil intriguied by your bush bars, did you mod the original design?..would you mind posting a full face on shot of the truck?

 

[Poe Mans Dream]

Have done a lot of work over the past 3 weeks - moving from Philadelphia to Portland and I am starting the drive Friday.

Had the crossmember that the LCAs bolt to separate from my frame a few weeks ago (lol) - picked up a new crossmember and had a local 4x4 shop weld it in.

The fabricator also patched a large hole above my driver side rear shock with a SafeTCap. Can't recommend the fabricator enough - if anyone is in PA / mid-atlantic and needs frame repair work done reach out and I can give you the shop name.


Replaced all rotors, and did the 5th gen front brake upgrade with powerstop components.

Have all my dash lights on - minus my CEL. I think I damaged an ABS sensor just need to track down which one. It has been a headache to say the least.

A lot of work to get done between now and Friday!

 

[rdruss]

Replaced the transmission cooling hard lines between radiator and front trans cooler with new Dorman part as well as the hoses to/from it with new. If I had started out with the new Dorman piece it would have been a lot easier, just planned to change the hoses/clamps but in process damaged the rotted hard lines and had to do it over with the Dorman.

 

[Zero0575]

Started getting ATF Oil Temp warning on a 1200 mile trip this weekend. Came on once for a few minutes climbing an incline in GA. Then again the next morning it came on again after sitting in a drive thru line in 90 degree weather tuened off after a minute or 2 of driving. Another symptom I was having - at idle, the AC wasn't super cool.

Replaced the fan clutch mid trip - found one in stock at on O'Reilly. It seems to have been the issue! AC works great at idle and haven't seen the ATF Oil temp light again the new fan clutch also has noticeably more resistance when turning the fan by hand with the car turned off.

So PSA, if you're overheating and/or getting no AC at idle, check your fan clutch!

Also hit 213k miles on the trip. Cheers!

 

[rdruss]

Had a leaking transmission cooler line, one of the hard lines that runs from trans to cooler in radiator, it is a real pita to replace, I did a "ghetto" fix by cutting the hard line near the fitting where it exits trans then disconnecting it from the hose that runs to radiator, made another cut in tube after removal of that section and spliced in hose.
This at least cured the leak as corroded section removed. I ordered both hard lines from dealer and they arrived as I was making this repair and each line has the pipe fitting already installed on the one end that goes to a 90 degree fitting at the trans, but those fittings are very difficult to access with the exhaust in place on passenger side, so I'll work on that another day. The other hard line is the return line to the trans from coolers, it is even more inaccessible than the one I worked on.