What did you do with your 4runner today?

[snowboardwcu]

sad day, today I listed my 4runner for sale. 8 years of a kickass hobby and I can't thank this crowd enough for the support & help over the years.

it's over in classifieds if anyone is in need of a V8 around Philly.

 

[rdruss]

Had to replace the rear brakes, passenger side caliper apparently seized as the pads were down to the steel while drivers side were excellent. Can't complain I guess, got almost 50K miles and 8 years. Replaced both rotors/pads and one caliper with NAPA.

 

[LOSTR4]

Spring Time

Well, it's supposed to be 70-75 degrees this weekend...but to get us ready for such lovely temperatures, we got 14" of snow yesterday and though it was slop more akin to slush than snow, I somehow got stuck still driving on my driveway...BUT, there is nothing like taking the ABS connection off under the hood to really wake up that v8 and exhaust notes; freedom was owed and I'm glad she made it out!

 

[SocalSam]

A 2003 Sport Edition V8 was put out at LKQ yesterday so went for a visit today. Dashboard was not as good as hoped, I want to replace my cracked dash badly. Brake booster assembly was gone as usual. I did get a hatch strut and OEM tow hitch cover which I am sure will be quickly stolen. I might keep the cover in the glove box. My drive shaft is noisy so I might swap a new one in. The one in the donor car was spotless. Picked up a few more Toyota relays for the collection. Picked a dome light assembly and installed it this afternoon. Light would not turn on with door open. Turns out the contact set screw was lose so I now have a spare assembly. Sigh.

 

[AuSeeker]

My ABS/master cylinder has been acting up and going bad in the last 2 weeks or so, I had the alarm sounding and a very hard brake pedal, so basically no brakes, it was the electric motor that I'm guessing the brushes are just worn out, for a week or so I could tap on the motor few times and it would start running again and the alarm would stop and I had brakes again but then no amount of tapping would get it going again as of yesterday, drove home from work with no brakes, traffic was light and I have only 2 stop signs on my route home, I used downshifting and then the parking brake to make it home, about a 20 minute rural drive.

2 weeks ago I bit the bullet and ordered a complete OEM ABS/master cylinder assembly, I was only going to do this once and even just to replace the electric motor the complete assembly has to be removed and reinstalled so a new assembly was what I did.

I just finished installing the ABS/master cylinder assembly, so far so good, I only bled the master cylinder at this point and the brakes are pretty good.

It took several minutes to get the alarm to stop, the electric motor on my assembly seems to only run for about 5 seconds then stops for about 5 seconds and then runs again for 5 seconds, this continued for at least 10 cycles before the alarm stopped, I then depressed the pedal about 7 to 8 times and the alarm returned...but only for about 5 to 10 seconds, after that I couldn't get the alarm to trigger even after over 20 depressions of the pedal, I'll report back later as to how many depressions it takes to get the motor to trigger again.

I will at a later date do a full 4 wheel bled and also use my new scanner to bleed the ABS system and post if any improvement over how the brakes work now.

As it has been mentioned on the forum it was straightforward to do the R&R....but I would say it was far from easy getting to the 4 nuts under the dash and I have cuts and scrapes to prove it!!

I did have to remove the screws/bolts/nuts for the fuse block and a couple of brackets to gain better access to the master cylinder nuts, I only lost one nut that fell down between the seat and console apparently never to be seen again, I spend close to an hour trying to find it using a magnet and my arms, but no luck, I did however find all the other numerous items I have dropped down there over the last few years!!

 

[grumpy02]

Replaced the rear shocks with the Taco take-offs I got, along with the rear sway bar bushings & links.

 

[rdruss]

Would you mind telling us how much you paid for the brake boost assembly and did you buy from dealer or other, thanks? Maybe some detail on what you did in replacing it, just undo the brake lines to it and sock the other one in and reconnect, or ?? Thanks again.

 

[AuSeeker]

Would you mind telling us how much you paid for the brake boost assembly and did you buy from dealer or other, thanks? Maybe some detail on what you did in replacing it, just undo the brake lines to it and sock the other one in and reconnect, or ?? Thanks again.

I ordered it from Toyota Parts Deal, I paid $1397 shipped, once they shipped it I got it in less than a week.

I was going to order from Ourisman (formerly McGeorge Toyota) since it was less initially ...BUT after shipping and them charging taxes was added as well it was $100 more than ordering it from ToyotaPartsDeal, who was less on shipping and didn't charge me $96 in taxes!!

Removed the lower dash trim and metal backer piece for better access, as described above remove bolts for a few other pieces for better access to the nuts holding the master cylinder, mainly for the 2 left nuts if viewing them from inside the vehicle, disconnected the 5 wiring connectors and the 4 brake lines on the master cylinder, removed the retainer clip and pin connecting the piston rod to the brake pedal, removed the nuts using a 12" long extension and a 6" extension as the 12" extension wasn't quite long enough to reach the nuts easily, and a universal for the top right nut as I couldn't get to that nut in a straight shot, once removed it's just a reversed procedure to install the new assembly reconnect the electrical and brake lines and fill it with brake fluid, it takes 1 quart to fill the reservoir, then with help from my son bled the 4 brake lines at the master cylinder, and that was it, as mentioned I will do a 4 wheel bled as well as trying to bleed the ABS system, but as of right now the brakes are pretty good, so I'm not in a great rush.

 

[Tahoe4R]

Rear center console had a busted bracket and wouldn’t stay in place. Found a working one at a Pick-N-Pull and swapped out the leather from mine. Good as new!!!

 

[taxzz]

took a final trip to the 'ol costco before selling it today. time to move onto something else for now. i still have another v8 4th gen, but that's the wife's daily for now.

 

[SocalSam]

took a final trip to the 'ol costco before selling it today. time to move onto something else for now. i still have another v8 4th gen, but that's the wife's daily for now.

No more coffins at my Costco...

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

Test drove her a few miles after getting my diffs reinstalled. Got 4.56’s and an Eaton/Harrop E locker installed by ECGS. Still need to wire in the locker but got the switch fit into the dash. Also replaced a broken motor mount on my 2nd gen.

 

[grumpy02]

Installed new wheel bearing/hub assemblies & new pads & rotors on the front. Passenger side bearing was bad, driver side was still OK but now it is new. Do you guys/gals "bed" your new pads?

 

[LOSTR4]

Bed your pads, for sure! Do x5 speed runs from 60 to zero but don't complete stop, than 40 to zero without stopping fully, and than 30, 20, and back to 40 (all) to zero without fully stopping and then do a light 3 mile drive to cool the rotors and then in theory, you're set and ready to drive another 50k-100k miles!

 

[grumpy02]

I used PowerStop pads & they have a specific bedding procedure (not as many as you describe) but still won't be easy to find a road with light enough traffic to do it around here.

 

[DuendeBubulin]

I drive from home to work and since yesterday i´ve been looking for the vacuum sensor of power steering the mechanic told that is really hard to find and expensive and the other option was to cancel it, i check at some local stores and yes the price was around $150 thru $250 dlls but i found it on WallyMex at $20 dlls hehe i just buy it.

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

Finished up my E locker wiring. Installed the DIY power tray I’ve had on my shelf for months cause I didn’t have anywhere to mount the locker relay. Needs a little refinement but not too shabby.

 

[maxdef]

Replaced the u-joints on my rear driveshaft and changed the front and rear diff fluid post break in as I just had them rebuilt and re-geared.

I've been considering doing this on my rear as well. Did you have tools and a press to do it yourself? Since I don't have a press I might just buy a new rear driveshaft (~$425 from a recent check), which should also cut down on some of that braking clunk that got a TSB for some models.

 

[AuSeeker]

I've been considering doing this on my rear as well. Did you have tools and a press to do it yourself? Since I don't have a press I might just buy a new rear driveshaft (~$425 from a recent check), which should also cut down on some of that braking clunk that got a TSB for some models.

You can install u-joints with a big C-clamp and some sockets, one big enough that the bearing cap can fit inside and another just smaller than the bearing cap, remove any retaining rings on both sides, place the larger socket on either side centered on the bearing cap, then put the smaller socket on the other side and apply pressure with the clamp until it's out.

Watch some YouTube videos even if they're using a press or whatever to help see the process, I have even changed them using a hammer and sockets if you really want to go caveman on them!LOL

 

[maxdef]

I opened up my transfer case actuator to see how everything was after wondering how bad mine might be, but I was very surprised to see it quite clean and rust free. There is some visible gunk near the bottom seal line, and it appears to be some gear oil as it looks like old Royal Purple from when I filled it a few years ago. Not quite sure if that's what I was seeing; I've also never had any leaks. I wiped up some of the hardly-firmed grease and added a little more on the visible teeth/gears. A dab of fresh oil on the gasket and mating surface and it was back on.