Who says you can't fit 34's!?

[49Runner]

SDHQ Off Road | '10-Current Toyota 4Runner SDHQ Built Body Mount Chop Filler Plates-SDHQ

I’m running same size, went with these... keeps you from creating places for mud/water to hide.

 

[TRDHULK]

SDHQ Off Road | '10-Current Toyota 4Runner SDHQ Built Body Mount Chop Filler Plates-SDHQ

I’m running same size, went with these... keeps you from creating places for mud/water to hide.

Those look great! I like how they go to the frame. I already cut too much off for those ones to work, but I may consider cutting all the way to the frame to get even more clearance in case I decide to go with 35's next time!

 

[TRDHULK]

Update

Wheeled it pretty hard yesterday close to home to ensure I have no clearance issues before I take it about an hour away for more serious off roading in a week or two.

I managed to to catch the outer edge of the tire on the plastic fender liner where I have done zero cutting so far. I was able to pop in back in place and could not replicate the same problem again. Super minor, but I'm shooting for ZERO rubbing and seem to have almost accomplished that with very little work so far.

The good news is there are no clearance issues anywhere else! (so far)

Maybe I'll just remove these plastic liners? It seems like most people with 35's have removed these.

Any issues with removing this plastic completely if needed?

 

[NAHHT4R]

Someone has probably asked the question already and I missed it.
But did you have regear and if you didn't how does it feel?

 

[MaddoxPics]

Sup 34" brethren. Looking good. Loving that green.

 

[TRDHULK]

Someone has probably asked the question already and I missed it.
But did you have regear and if you didn't how does it feel?

No problem. I've been asked about a re gear quite a bit to my surprise.

I did not re-gear and probably never will. It drives excellent and would have never even thought to re-gear if a bunch of people didn't mention it to me. Now that they have mentioned it and I've focused more on it, the only benefit I can imagine would be around 75 mph it goes back and forth between 4th and fifth a little ONLY when using cruise control. Not worth a $3k+ regear IMO.

Now, If I do 35's in the future, I'll most likely re gear.

 

[TRDHULK]

Sup 34" brethren. Looking good. Loving that green.

Whassup!

Love your rig also. Just gave you a follow on the Gram!

BTW, what sliders do you have?

 

[NAHHT4R]

No problem. I've been asked about a re gear quite a bit to my surprise.

I did not re-gear and probably never will. It drives excellent and would have never even thought to re-gear if a bunch of people didn't mention it to me. Now that they have mentioned it and I've focused more on it, the only benefit I can imagine would be around 75 mph it goes back and forth between 4th and fifth a little ONLY when using cruise control. Not worth a $3k+ regear IMO.

Now, If I do 35's in the future, I'll most likely re gear.

Gotcha.
Yeah I hear 34in is like a 50/50 if you have to regear, but it's good to know that it's not a super must.
Thanks!

 

[Jetboy]

Gotcha.
Yeah I hear 34in is like a 50/50 if you have to regear, but it's good to know that it's not a super must.
Thanks!

I think it depends a lot on what you're doing and the weight of your setup. I have 34's and regeared and then un-regeared back to OEM gearing. I get 2 or 3 mpg better with OEM gearing and significantly better MPG towing with OEM gearing. The reason is that I'm in 4th gear towing either way, so OEM was paradoxically better. If we had the 6th gear like the GX - no question at all for me that 4.56 would be the best setup.

Drive-ability was much better with 4.56 around town and on the trails. So it's a trade off. I kept both sets of diffs so I can swap back if I ever want to. For now I'm happier with 3.73 for what I do - and that's mostly driving completely empty with almost no added weight. If I were hauling around 1000lbs of gear all the time, I think the re-gear is worth having.

I really wish we had something in between like 4.10 gearing. 4.56 is a big jump. Too big for 34's for me.

my .02

 

[Jetboy]

For a size comparison if folks haven't seen it - here are 3 mounted and aired up tires. 285/70/17 AT2s worn on left, 285/75/17 Cooper AT3 middle, and 275/60/20 Cooper HT on the right (my street tire set). Cooper 285/75's are narrower and quite a bit taller than the other two. The 275's are oddly the widest of the bunch. Just a reference point though for folks who might be curious on the size difference between them in real life.

I've been pretty happy with the AT3's as an all around tire. Good highway manners. Durable in the dirt. And pretty good all around dirt traction (definitely not a good mud tire, but good for most other terrain).

 

[NAHHT4R]

I think it depends a lot on what you're doing and the weight of your setup. I have 34's and regeared and then un-regeared back to OEM gearing. I get 2 or 3 mpg better with OEM gearing and significantly better MPG towing with OEM gearing. The reason is that I'm in 4th gear towing either way, so OEM was paradoxically better. If we had the 6th gear like the GX - no question at all for me that 4.56 would be the best setup.

Drive-ability was much better with 4.56 around town and on the trails. So it's a trade off. I kept both sets of diffs so I can swap back if I ever want to. For now I'm happier with 3.73 for what I do - and that's mostly driving completely empty with almost no added weight. If I were hauling around 1000lbs of gear all the time, I think the re-gear is worth having.

I really wish we had something in between like 4.10 gearing. 4.56 is a big jump. Too big for 34's for me.

my .02

Thanks [MENTION=118321]Jetboy[/MENTION].
I'm still a bit new to the regearing, but that some very useful information for when I do decide to go 34ins.

 

[TRDHULK]

I think it depends a lot on what you're doing and the weight of your setup. I have 34's and regeared and then un-regeared back to OEM gearing. I get 2 or 3 mpg better with OEM gearing and significantly better MPG towing with OEM gearing. The reason is that I'm in 4th gear towing either way, so OEM was paradoxically better. If we had the 6th gear like the GX - no question at all for me that 4.56 would be the best setup.

Drive-ability was much better with 4.56 around town and on the trails. So it's a trade off. I kept both sets of diffs so I can swap back if I ever want to. For now I'm happier with 3.73 for what I do - and that's mostly driving completely empty with almost no added weight. If I were hauling around 1000lbs of gear all the time, I think the re-gear is worth having.

I really wish we had something in between like 4.10 gearing. 4.56 is a big jump. Too big for 34's for me.

my .02

This is a great perspective and makes me feel even better about my decision to leave OEM. I wont be adding any extra weight except rock sliders and will rarely tow anything larger than a jet ski. I also do a lot of hwy driving so gearing would kill mpgs

 

[ryguytheman]

For a size comparison if folks haven't seen it - here are 3 mounted and aired up tires. 285/70/17 AT2s worn on left, 285/75/17 Cooper AT3 middle, and 275/60/20 Cooper HT on the right (my street tire set). Cooper 285/75's are narrower and quite a bit taller than the other two. The 275's are oddly the widest of the bunch. Just a reference point though for folks who might be curious on the size difference between them in real life.

I've been pretty happy with the AT3's as an all around tire. Good highway manners. Durable in the dirt. And pretty good all around dirt traction (definitely not a good mud tire, but good for most other terrain).

I don't understand why both sets of 285s are so different width-wise. Shouldn't they be the same? And as for how the 275s are wider than both...

Isn't "X" in X/Y/rZ the width measurement?

 

[MaddoxPics]

Whassup!

Love your rig also. Just gave you a follow on the Gram!

BTW, what sliders do you have?

Haha thanks. RSG Rock Sliders, angled, no kickout.

 

[pableaux]

How'd you get your "no questions asked" 125k mile warranty?

 

[TRDHULK]

How'd you get your "no questions asked" 125k mile warranty?

I bought it when I bought my Pro.

I work at the dealership as well.

 

[Longv]

34s without extended bumpstops will result in this offroading. Red circled part is suppose to be flat. Pinch welds need to be hammered flush also

 

[DaveSmith]

34s without extended bumpstops will result in this offroading. Red circled part is suppose to be flat. Pinch welds need to be hammered flush also

Longv, What suspension and lift were you running when your 34 slammed up inside the the wheel well and created the dent? What extended bump stops are you going to put on?

Thanks for sharing the info.

 

[Jetboy]

I don't understand why both sets of 285s are so different width-wise. Shouldn't they be the same? And as for how the 275s are wider than both...

Isn't "X" in X/Y/rZ the width measurement?

Yes - they should be the same. It really shows how different various tires are that have similar size labels.

 

[Jetboy]

34s without extended bumpstops will result in this offroading. Red circled part is suppose to be flat. Pinch welds need to be hammered flush also

Can you tell us more about your setup? Namely suspension, control arms, and caster setting. I'm also curious. I haven't had any of those issues with 34's. I'm not racing competitively, but I've pushed it fairly hard and haven't found any issues with rubbing or contact in the front (outside of the normal mud flap and BMC that were necessary to fit).

My setup is stock LCA (with KDSS), stock bump stops, stock wheels sometimes with 1" spacers, sometimes without, Fox 2.5" front coilovers, and JBA UCAs. I set my caster pretty high - around 4.5 - and I'm set at around 2" lift height, but I've gone everywhere from 1-3" height over the years.

I do actually get some minor rub on the inner fender liner in the rear in the whoops at speed if I push it. But nothing up front.