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whos gonna throw one of these in their 5th gen?


Verso 2.28 x 4.70 Dual Gear-Drive Transfer Case
Dual RF1A top-shift gear-drive transfer case that features a 4.70 low range gear set built with our very own Verso™ Transfer Case Adapter. The Verso™ T-Case Adapter allows for the use of a gear-driven t-case with a left hand drop front axle. The Verso™ T-Case Adapter is machined out of aircraft-grade 6061-T6 aluminum for increased strength and durability. The Verso™ T-Case Adapter has almost a quarter inch of added material around the idler gear bearing for additional strength.

Each case is fully rebuilt and inspected. Triple drilled flanges are installed on both front and rear output. This Verso™ 2.28 x 4.70 Dual Transfer Case is built with a 23-spline input gear. Can be installed as a replacement to your stock chain driven transfer case. To go even further, we will include a Mechanical-to-Electrical Speedometer Adapter and your choice of shifters with this kit at no additional cost! The shifters will be provided uninstalled. Available with an adapter for 3.0L, Tacoma 2.7L, 3.4L, and 4.0L applications (transmission adapters are provided uninstalled).
 

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Will the driveshafts need to be altered/new lengths as well? I like Inchworms's case because you can clock it to achieve a fully flat bottom.
 
Will the driveshafts need to be altered/new lengths as well? I like Inchworms's case because you can clock it to achieve a fully flat bottom.
Probably yes on the driveshafts. You can clock this one too, once you're adapted to the rf1a you can use a clocked adapter between the first and second cases.
 
yes drivelines need altered. both.
adapter is 420$
gonna call and see if fuel tank needs altered like the FGays.
 
So... what all does this do?

whos gonna throw one of these in their 5th gen?


Verso 2.28 x 4.70 Dual Gear-Drive Transfer Case
Dual RF1A top-shift gear-drive transfer case that features a 4.70 low range gear set built with our very own Verso™ Transfer Case Adapter.

So does this change the options from 2Hi, 4Hi and 4Lo to 4Lo and 4xlo?
 
Be prepared to cut holes in your floor for the shifters and a lot of lights lit up on the dash. This will not play well with all the electronics on our 4runners. This is more for custom rock crawlers and hard core off roaders.
 
So does this change the options from 2Hi, 4Hi and 4Lo to 4Lo and 4xlo?

No, it changes your options to 2High, 4High, 2Low, 4Low, 4ReallyLow, and 4StupidLow. Get a triple stick and you can have 2ReallyLow and 2StupidLow too.

From looking at the pic, what this does is replaces the reduction section of your transfer case with two reduction sections from the early RF1A transfer case (one of which has 4.7 gears in it). You'd get an adapter that goes between your transmission and the first RF1A case, then you'd have the two RF1A cases (with a standard dual tcase adapter between them), and then another adapter to go between the second RF1A case and the back half of your stock transfer case. That's a lot of adapters - that thing is really really long.
 
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Going to be more than 400$ in adapters. 400$ is just the adpter to adapt a gear drive tcase to a V6.

What this is going to do is flip the output of the gear drive tcase out to the front axle onto the driver side. So you would need the transmission adapter, plus the verso. At least that's how I see it.

Notice the original case drops out on the "right" if you were looking from the driver seat, and the case with the verso adapter drops from the "left" if you were looking from the driver seat.


Then you would need the 4.7 gears. And a dual adapter if you wanted duals. Unless you bought the already built kit. Verso is also already clocked.

Drive shafts need to be modified. The extent of the cutting of the floor is the unknown...as you would be the guinea pig. :juggle: I don't see many if any doing duals on a 5th gen 4runner. You'd end up cutting too much of the floor and probably have shifters coming up through the seat..

As for the electronics, you'd still have your stock axles and sensors. So maybe atrac and vsc could still work. Depending on how much they rely on the original tcase. But that might be simple enough to trick by supplying a voltage or something. Must see what was the electronic issues on the Tacoma they tested with.
 

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i read about this the other day. basically it gives the late model guys the option to run duals, without completely swapping out the drivetrain, to achieve the right hand drop.

its a fabbed, left hand drop t-case. a novel idea.


what I would really like to see, is a nodular iron case, using all Toyota internals. something closer to the np205, but not nearly as large. Toyota gear drive transfer-cases are strong, but the aluminum flexes too much, and you get problems. give me a steel case!
 
Hmm. I think I would personally want to wait and see others troubleshoot it for me. I figure starting with a SAS, regearing again to 4.88 when Yukon releases them and running 35s will take me pretty much where I want to go for now. Probably will change my mind after running that setup for a while. A few have done the marlin crawler tcase in 4th gens so I don't think this would be any harder! I like it!
 
I don't know if this started out as competition for the Marlin/Inchworm lefty product used on 4th gen/FJ Cruisers or a replacement...

I say that because the lefty product was made by inchworm. Besides waiting months and months with Marlin to even get one, my FJ cruiser buddies indicated that there were actually no more inchworm lefties to be had, inchworm had stopped production as all their focus was on a large Gov't contract. So then in comes Verso....competition or the replacement alternative.

Now inchworm seems to have merged with lowrangeoffroad, lefties are listed on the site, so maybe production is back on.
 
well i think it will be easier on the trail edition runners due a lever in floor not a switch. the factory case has a switch to engage front axel drive when put in 4wheel, so youd have to put a switch on that or eliminate it somehow.
i agree with needing a steel case, broke a few alum cases in my junker, but i dont think a 5th gen is gonna get hammered like a 1, 2 or 3rd gen.....yet...:gun6:

for 2800$ id still really be looking at a atlas case instead. but first the SAS:girl:
 
well i think it will be easier on the trail edition runners due a lever in floor not a switch. the factory case has a switch to engage front axel drive when put in 4wheel, so youd have to put a switch on that or eliminate it somehow.
i agree with needing a steel case, broke a few alum cases in my junker, but i dont think a 5th gen is gonna get hammered like a 1, 2 or 3rd gen.....yet...:gun6:

for 2800$ id still really be looking at a atlas case instead. but first the SAS:girl:

The race is on... My plans will bring me a solid axle by next season. Thinking of having a housing made and using the FZJ80 diff, knuckles etc. was originally going to run to a D60 but would be weird unless I swapped rear out, leading to wanting the atlas t-Case and custom drive shafts... And it just snowballed. A local company has made some speed sensor kits for 4ths that thinks they can keep my rig from throwing codes. I do want to try to get 12-14" of front travel which will mean some creative reorganizing... Still working it out but getting close!
 
A local company has made some speed sensor kits for 4ths that thinks they can keep my rig from throwing codes.
I don't think you'll need them. We both (and several others) run over sized tires and 4.56 gears. The ECU is disregarding the speed sensor from the transmission completely, and only using the wheel speed sensors.
 
The race is on... My plans will bring me a solid axle by next season. Thinking of having a housing made and using the FZJ80 diff, knuckles etc. was originally going to run to a D60 but would be weird unless I swapped rear out, leading to wanting the atlas t-Case and custom drive shafts... And it just snowballed. A local company has made some speed sensor kits for 4ths that thinks they can keep my rig from throwing codes. I do want to try to get 12-14" of front travel which will mean some creative reorganizing... Still working it out but getting close!

I'm getting rid of the rear axel. It's really not that strong even with cro-mo shafts. Got news today that my planned AK road trip most likely won't happen, so.... Build May go a different way. I don't even have 1,000 miles on it and I'm stuck at work..:sadwave:
 
I'm getting rid of the rear axel. It's really not that strong even with cro-mo shafts. Got news today that my planned AK road trip most likely won't happen, so.... Build May go a different way. I don't even have 1,000 miles on it and I'm stuck at work..:sadwave:

Why do people think the axles are weak? Is this for Baja type racing, dune jumping? I don't know anything about that.

We only have a few 5th gens in my club, but we have tons of built up FJ Cruisers. None have broken a rear axle. A couple of front axles, mostly just torn boots. I did break a front axle shaft on a 4th gen, and know some FJ's with broken front shafts or joints. Mostly the result of not wanting to winch and too much skinny pedal...rocks are hard...oops

A spare shaft is about 200$ maybe less, and time to replace 1-2 hrs. We've even replaced front wheel bearings on the side of the road. About 200$ pre-pressed from this guy. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/ma...2-hub-bearing-assemblies-order-them-here.html

If you want to do it because you just want to do it, for the fun of it, you take great pleasure in doing it, for the "because you can" , to build a 1 of a kind etc... that's fine, I won't take that away from you. SAS 5th gen with 1tons that would be WOW.

But don't do it if you think everything will fall apart as soon as you go off road. I don't think it will. And what does "break" is easily repaired. Front axle, maybe bent drive shafts, tie rod.
 
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