ZUK mod? Yes? or No?

Thats the route I was looking to go. What coils are you running Toyotech? I think you said newer 3rd gen coils, do you have a part number? The front coils look about 1.5" shorter than rears.


I'm running a brand new updated version of the 3rd gen read coil. There was a recall on certain 3rd gens and Toyota replaced the rears with updated versions of them. Anyways a buddy if mine had a set laying around and gave them to me. I'll have to see about a part number
 
I'm running a brand new updated version of the 3rd gen read coil. There was a recall on certain 3rd gens and Toyota replaced the rears with updated versions of them. Anyways a buddy if mine had a set laying around and gave them to me. I'll have to see about a part number

No worries. Picked up a pair of '98 coils that should work. Got some BJ spacers now just need to find the time to put it all in.
 
No worries. Picked up a pair of '98 coils that should work. Got some BJ spacers now just need to find the time to put it all in.


Nice. The rear may feel a little stiff or maybe it's just me and the new springs. It rides good now but I have done a lot since the zuk mod. Overall even since I 1st did the mod. I loved it. Cost and over performance.
 
I did the no-cut zuk mod using the Blackmagic 13 inch, 100 pound spring. It raised the back end 2 inches AND I can articulate the rear all the way to the bump stops NO PROBLEM. The first time I took it off road I heard a lot of creaking but by now there is no noise at all when off-roading. I took some pics in my back yard, the rocks weren't quite high enough to fully flex the rear but I have done it off road several times. Rides GREAT on road too. Not too soft at all as I occasionally haul a loaded trailer too. Check it out.






 
And in case some were concerned, the axle seals aren't blown out. I had just put a locker and bled the rear brakes so there was a bit of fluid all around.
 
I did the no-cut zuk mod using the Blackmagic 13 inch, 100 pound spring. It raised the back end 2 inches AND I can articulate the rear all the way to the bump stops NO PROBLEM..

Nice! I think 13-inch @10lb/inch is a good one for stock suspension that does not see cargo too often; Would give it a little more lift yet softer than the 12-inch @125-lb/inch (I used the latter).

May we know how far your leaf spring to bottom of frame is now?
TIA
 
My truck rides really nice. Maybe it is ur shocks... I have the RS9000s. Set to 5 on the front and 2 on the back(when empty). When I had my tent trailer, I'd crank em up to 5. After I'd unhook tho the ride was very stiff until I turned em back down.
Interesting idea Nevada...

I have rancho RS9000 shocks too... (for 2" lift) my question to you is the # @ the 12:00 is the adjusted number??? I cant seem to notice any difference no madder what# they are on. maybe they aren't broke in yet? only have 4000 on-
road miles on them so far & rear springs are ___flat___
But just got OME rear springs so this may help the ride... Or so I hope..
 
You should notice a HUGE difference from soft to hard setting with the Ranchos! 9000's in every vehicle I put it in (including the rear of my truck right now) have been beyond a day/night difference when going from soft to hard.

Could be the adjustment knob is not turning correctly. I've had a bad knob in one of mine once, it didn't really change the setting at all. Might need to call Rancho to find out what needs to be done.

As an fyi, counter-clockwise is softer, and when its all the way up to the hardest setting, you shouldn't be able to even move the back end when jumping up and down on the bumper! It really does get that stiff!!!

Btw, I have your flat tip screwdriver here. Guess it got covered up by all the crap I had on my workbench!
 
"long term" solution

This is a great thread all. Thanks for sharing your veteran (and not so veteran) expertise/experiences.
I'm "newer" to the 1st gen world, bought my first one about 1.5 years ago. Mine is a DD, with approx. 100lbs of tools/gear in the rear all the time.
I've seen many opinions and answers here, however I didn't see an answer to this question:
What's the best "long term" solution for stock height rear suspension?

ZUK is best "short term" for stock height.
OME is best for long term lifted height.
AAL is best for... well sounds like nothing...

Thank you in advance,
Shaw
 
This is a great thread all. Thanks for sharing your veteran (and not so veteran) expertise/experiences.
I'm "newer" to the 1st gen world, bought my first one about 1.5 years ago. Mine is a DD, with approx. 100lbs of tools/gear in the rear all the time.
I've seen many opinions and answers here, however I didn't see an answer to this question:
What's the best "long term" solution for stock height rear suspension?

ZUK is best "short term" for stock height.
OME is best for long term lifted height.
AAL is best for... well sounds like nothing...

Thank you in advance,
Shaw

You will get tons of debate on this. Some people swear by the ZUK, others think sticking a spring between a rubber bump stop and it's frame contact isn't the slickest idea... to each their own I suppose.

New OME spring packs? They usually wind up being quite a bit of overkill if you aren't looking to lift the front. You will be left with a healthy rake.

What is your reasoning for AAL being the best for "nothing"? Strengthening the existing leaf pack with a good AAL, like a long leaf from rancho or taking a leaf or two from another leaf pack is the best option IMO, especially for a daily driver/street driver. AAL can get a bad rep because some guys throw leaves in the truck that are essentially cheap, thick and short bars that force a spring pack back into position. That is not what I am referring to here.

There have been a few times where 4runner owners have purchased all new OEM (not old man emu) leaf packs and found the truck to be no higher in the rear, not restored at all. These things came right out of the factory hanging pretty low in the rear. Adding good quality soft add a leafs is the most professional way to go IMO, over a ZUK. Old Man Emu makes great spring packs, but most find they need to lift the front then, and that starts a new can of worms.

Remember, the rear fenders are cut two inches lower on the body, so if you baseline measure (unloaded) say, 14" from top of your wheel to the bottom of your fender in the front, the rear should be at 12" (for example).

Once you measure with the truck on a nice level surface you can get a baseline and see how your rear springs are sitting or handling the load. Even if you find they are not sagging and are basically stock, and you decide it still doesn't look right, adding to the leaf pack gives you the power to lift as little as 1.5" at a time. If you throw medium duty OME spring packs in the rear you will get a significant boost over stock, which may look strange to some.
 
Last edited:
Most AALs aren't made with lifting in mind, they're made to carry heavier loads. Stick an AAL in without the heavier load to go with it and you will get lift, natch, and a rougher ride to go with it. Some don't mind, others hate it.

With the lack of stock height aftermarket spring packs on the market, I think the "correct" option for long term rear springs at stock height is probably a custom spring pack from a company like Alcan or similar. Those can be expensive, if you don't want to drop that kind of cash you could buy OME and french them into the rear rails, that'd bring you back to close to stock height.

But if it's done right, a helper spring via Zukmod or even airbags aren't a bad option at all, and cheaper than new springs to boot.
 
heres my zuk mod, im using 3rd gen coils inside 5th gen coils. it works great, the spring only falls out when i flex.
 

Attachments

  • 11403487_10207249781582203_1113490127553845712_n.jpg
    11403487_10207249781582203_1113490127553845712_n.jpg
    134.9 KB · Views: 678
  • 11947413_10207674731205678_6175029721879150073_n.jpg
    11947413_10207674731205678_6175029721879150073_n.jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 561
You will get tons of debate on this. Some people swear by the ZUK, others think sticking a spring between a rubber bump stop and it's frame contact isn't the slickest idea... to each their own I suppose.

New OME spring packs? They usually wind up being quite a bit of overkill if you aren't looking to lift the front. You will be left with a healthy rake.

What is your reasoning for AAL being the best for "nothing"? Strengthening the existing leaf pack with a good AAL, like a long leaf from rancho or taking a leaf or two from another leaf pack is the best option IMO, especially for a daily driver/street driver. AAL can get a bad rep because some guys throw leaves in the truck that are essentially cheap, thick and short bars that force a spring pack back into position. That is not what I am referring to here.

There have been a few times where 4runner owners have purchased all new OEM (not old man emu) leaf packs and found the truck to be no higher in the rear, not restored at all. These things came right out of the factory hanging pretty low in the rear. Adding good quality soft add a leafs is the most professional way to go IMO, over a ZUK. Old Man Emu makes great spring packs, but most find they need to lift the front then, and that starts a new can of worms.

Remember, the rear fenders are cut two inches lower on the body, so if you baseline measure (unloaded) say, 14" from top of your wheel to the bottom of your fender in the front, the rear should be at 12" (for example).

Once you measure with the truck on a nice level surface you can get a baseline and see how your rear springs are sitting or handling the load. Even if you find they are not sagging and are basically stock, and you decide it still doesn't look right, adding to the leaf pack gives you the power to lift as little as 1.5" at a time. If you throw medium duty OME spring packs in the rear you will get a significant boost over stock, which may look strange to some.

I just measured a 1.75" differential between the front and rear wheel wells. So there is a .25" sag there off your baseline.

I had a heavier load on the past weeks outing, both gear on the roof basket and in the cargo area. I was hitting bump stops fairly easily (duh). This experience got me thinking about a stronger suspension. But after reading more I'm realizing that'll bring a stiffer ride too. Primarily stiffer in the rear only though, which is suitable considering I don't ride in the back nor do I have rear seats (cargo/dog area only).

I don't know that AAL is "nothing", but a majority of people on here didn't have good things to say about it. So I went with that summary.

To me the proper fix is to go with leafs again, that's what the truck was designed for. Whether it be AAL or a new spring pack.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this, btw. I'm gathering knowledge at the moment before I make this decision.
 
Most AALs aren't made with lifting in mind, they're made to carry heavier loads. Stick an AAL in without the heavier load to go with it and you will get lift, natch, and a rougher ride to go with it. Some don't mind, others hate it.

With the lack of stock height aftermarket spring packs on the market, I think the "correct" option for long term rear springs at stock height is probably a custom spring pack from a company like Alcan or similar. Those can be expensive, if you don't want to drop that kind of cash you could buy OME and french them into the rear rails, that'd bring you back to close to stock height.

But if it's done right, a helper spring via Zukmod or even airbags aren't a bad option at all, and cheaper than new springs to boot.

Kid,
Thanks for taking the time here.
I emailed Alcan for a quote to do a 1" lift spring pack (unloaded truck), so when loaded up it should be "level'ish". I'd like to have an idea what this would cost.
I'm open to a slightly bumpier ride, especially if it's mainly in the rear. I can add more weight to the rear pretty easily as well to soften the spring back. (I'm planning a drawer system which will add weight in itself, before gear is included).
If Alcan is a crazy price, then what AAL would be recommended?
Thank you
 
was thinking about doing this mod (no cut w/black magic springs) i have about 10" from wheel to fender on one side and 11" on the other. or would new leafs be a better option?
 
was thinking about doing this mod (no cut w/black magic springs) i have about 10" from wheel to fender on one side and 11" on the other. or would new leafs be a better option?

I would just get some 3rd gen 4Runner springs (under $30 used) and see what happens
 
There are 3rd gen rear springs on my local CL. The guy said they were 15" tall so I thought they wouldn't work. Has anyone used them before? I would definitely get them if they work. Will also have to get some bump stops as mine are MIA...
 
There are 3rd gen rear springs on my local CL. The guy said they were 15" tall so I thought they wouldn't work. Has anyone used them before? I would definitely get them if they work. Will also have to get some bump stops as mine are MIA...

[MENTION=47812]ToyoTech[/MENTION] used 3rd gen springs on his I think.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top