~20k miles, needs driver front wheel bearing already... fluke?

[4LErunning]

The bearings on my 14 Limited just went out at 52k. I'm glad it's still under warranty. I am a little disappointed that they didn't last longer under normal driving.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

There's four in this thread. OP, me, Antman (twice, though he admits he messed up the install one time), bcolts (twice, though he has 200k+). What's the percentage of that?

And "not true"? Did you take a look at the TW forum regarding the same wheel bearings we have? Did you look through the sale ad I linked and note the number of late 4th gen and early 5th gen owners who are ordering bearings?

I'm not calling it the most defining automotive crisis since the Pinto explosions. I'm not even saying it's a big deal. I'm saying there's more wheel bearing failures on those models than what is "normal". "Normal" to me is never having to replace a wheel bearing - I've never had to do that on any vehicle I've ever owned (motorcycles excluded). I'm arguing with the dealership about repairing mine but if they don't, I'll bolt on an aftermarket, pre-assembled hub and not give a shit.

In summary, it's not abnormal for them to fail, ergo it is not a fluke.

I agree with [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]. You are talking about a failure rate, what's high to you? 5%? 10%? You are talking about 5 in over 500,000 vehicles, that's just 4Runners not counting Tacomas. So the failure rate is .001%!! Just because the 4th gens use the same bearing, doesn't mean it's exactly the same. Toyota makes improvements all the time, and part numbers supersede others. One thing I would not ever do is put an aftermarket wheel bearing on my truck. I would buy a used one with 100,000 miles over an aftermarket any day.

Do you think you have a little bit of a sour taste in your mouth after dealing with that crappy dealership?

 

[MeefZah]

I agree with [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]. You are talking about a failure rate, what's high to you? 5%? 10%? You are talking about 5 in over 500,000 vehicles, that's just 4Runners not counting Tacomas. So the failure rate is .001%!! Just because the 4th gens use the same bearing, doesn't mean it's exactly the same. Toyota makes improvements all the time, and part numbers supersede others. One thing I would not ever do is put an aftermarket wheel bearing on my truck. I would buy a used one with 100,000 miles over an aftermarket any day.

Do you think you have a little bit of a sour taste in your mouth after dealing with that crappy dealership?

Ok
.

 

[loghvnrcr]

Spindle Bearing Dust Seal

Not sure if a fluke failure or bad design but I know a lot topics and people buying hub bearing assemblies from various people online to do replacements.

I just replaced driver side this weekend on 2011 4Runner 4WD. Has about 110K. Wasn't too bad except separating hub from knuckle...need big chisel and slowly work around.

With 110K miles, I am not complaining but the knuckle dust seal (CV side) was already bad or I tore it when putting new hub into the knuckle and onto axle. So of course I need one.

I am a little confused on.....the knuckle two seals...an inner one next to the speed sensor and a larger "outer" one that the CV boot pushes against the spindle. Does anyone know the the seal numbers-either Toyota or aftermarket.

I see a lot of the folks selling the hub bearing assemblies will sell you an an aftermarket Timken or National 710573. Is this also Toyota part number 90316-A0001? And which seal is it? Inner or the larger outer one against CV or the inner one in the knuckle.

Which seal is Timken/National 710477? Is this the seal in the hub/bearing pressed together assembly?


I believe I need both knuckle seals because when I pulled the old hub out of the knuckle , the the inner seal had the little seal spring hanging off of it. I popped it back on but I am sure it needs to be replaced but not sure which seal is this one.

I have got myself confused after reading way too many hub/bearing replacements on these Toyotas last night.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Antman]

I believe I need both knuckle seals because when I pulled the old hub out of the knuckle , the the inner seal had the little seal spring hanging off of it. I popped it back on but I am sure it needs to be replaced but not sure which seal is this one.

I have got myself confused after reading way too many hub/bearing replacements on these Toyotas last night.

Thanks for any help.

My seal was the same way and I did the same thing. My second bearing failed within a year. Replace both dust seals! PN 90316-A0001 (#20)

 

[loghvnrcr]

My seal was the same way and I did the same thing. My second bearing failed within a year. Replace both dust seals! PN 90316-A0001 (#20)


Thanks for the reply! I think I may have messed it up but don't tell the girlfriend (who owns truck)......I am seeing two seals when I look in the knuckle. One "inside" the knuckle next to speed sensor and the one on the backside that the CV axle pushes on. When I put everything back together the Outer CV/knuckle seal will not seat flush into the knuckle and is "out" a little compared to the good passenger side. I had read somewhere when you tighten up the 35mm nut it will pull the seal into the knuckle but it didn't in my case. Still out a little and not sealed against knuckle.

When you say both dust seals, I only see #20 in pic with part number PN90316-A0001 . Is this Outer and Inner knuckle seal one and mine may be torn in half?


Girlfriend is going to drive it for now because she has to but I am pulling it all back apart this weekend and want to have the seal(s) on hand.

Thanks again.

 

[loghvnrcr]

May have just found the answer on this site!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...vs-now-have-steering-knuckle-seal-issues.html

From member King in 2013:

"recently did the same thing and had the same problem as you. it took some research and visiting all the auto parts store in town and the dealer. It looks like you used the seal that is supposed to go in between the hub an wheel bearing. For some reason you cannot get the seal between the knuckle and cv joint from the auto parts store, they don't even have it in their computer. Toyota carries it but I had to sit down with the parts guy to find it in their computer. Also if you look at the original picture the seal is actually 2 pieces that pull apart, one side goes on the cv joint and the other installs into the knuckle and they turn inside each other that is why you are getting the rubbing noise. I hope you still have the old one because Toyota didn't have the part that installed on the cv joint just the one you press into the knuckle. Let me know if I didn't explain it well enough and I can clarify, this was a major headache for me because I tried for a while to make the seal you used work before I figured out that the original seal was 2 pieces."

And here are the parts:

Originally Posted by Silver4RunnerIS300

National makes this seal part number 710573

and the other part number for reference is 90316-72001 or TOS-120

 

[Antman]

My seal was the same way and I did the same thing. My second bearing failed within a year. Replace both dust seals! PN 90316-A0001 (#20)


Thanks for the reply! I think I may have messed it up but don't tell the girlfriend (who owns truck)......I am seeing two seals when I look in the knuckle. One "inside" the knuckle next to speed sensor and the one on the backside that the CV axle pushes on. When I put everything back together the Outer CV/knuckle seal will not seat flush into the knuckle and is "out" a little compared to the good passenger side. I had read somewhere when you tighten up the 35mm nut it will pull the seal into the knuckle but it didn't in my case. Still out a little and not sealed against knuckle.

When you say both dust seals, I only see #20 in pic with part number PN90316-A0001 . Is this Outer and Inner knuckle seal one and mine may be torn in half?


Girlfriend is going to drive it for now because she has to but I am pulling it all back apart this weekend and want to have the seal(s) on hand.

Thanks again.

I never did figure out why, but my CV had a small gap too. Apparently it's fine because it's been on there a few years...
Both dust seals- driver and passenger side I meant (sorry). There is only 1 seal per knuckle- on the back side. The other seals are inside the hub assembly pressed together. There is an O-Ring on the hub that seals the front of the knuckle.

You can use the old dust seal as a tool to press the new one in without damaging it, BTW.

 

[mckennar]

Follow up. I had a large, angry, rambling text wall prepared, but the TL;DR of it is that I'm paying to have the bearing replaced and if it fixes the problem, they'll comp 100% parts/labor/fees. If it doesn't fix it, then it's on me.

The noise has persisted through 2 sets of tires, dealer won't test drive, just listens with a stethoscope while the car is on a lift, no load, no speed beyond hand turning the wheel. Says the bearing is fine, can't duplicate the issue. Meanwhile after a few minutes at 75 mph the center portion of the wheel is hot to the touch and the noise above 50 mph makes conversations difficult.

 

[MeefZah]

Follow up. I had a large, angry, rambling text wall prepared, but the TL;DR of it is that I'm paying to have the bearing replaced and if it fixes the problem, they'll comp 100% parts/labor/fees. If it doesn't fix it, then it's on me.

The noise has persisted through 2 sets of tires, dealer won't test drive, just listens with a stethoscope while the car is on a lift, no load, no speed beyond hand turning the wheel. Says the bearing is fine, can't duplicate the issue. Meanwhile after a few minutes at 75 mph the center portion of the wheel is hot to the touch and the noise above 50 mph makes conversations difficult.

Keep us posted, will ya? I'm interested in the dealer's ultimate actions.

 

[mckennar]

New bearing is in. I sat in the waiting area and watched through the glass for every step except the pressing in/out.

TL;DR: the noise is gone.

The old part looks brand new, is tight, no leaks, and turns in its housing with resistance but no gravelly feel. I gave it back to them so they could send it to Toyota.

So 3 dealer visits to 2 different dealers, 2 sets of tires, an alignment, and a bunch of back-and-forth, the $30 bearing was changed and the noise is gone. I paid for the parts up front, so they're reimbursing my credit card.

Annoying, for sure, but at the end of the day, they eventually took care of it.