H20skier70
New member
Thanks, great write up! sub'd for use in approx. 85k miles when mine is due again!
2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump
- Thread starter BlackWorksInc
- Start date
4boer2
New member
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION], did you use the SST to remove the crank bolt? If I remove the radiator, would I have enough room to use an impact? Tundras, LCs, and even an LS430 can use one. Also, if I don't have the SST for the fan clutch, can I take it off in a different way?
BlackWorksInc
New member
Yes, if you removed the radiator and condenser you'd have plenty of room to hit it with an impact. I didn't have that big an issue getting mine loose and I didn't want to take the radiator out personally, but this is what a lot of people do when the bolt is difficult to get loose.
You don't have to use the special tool, but you can get them pretty cheap.
Or a really long Screwdriver.
4boer2
New member
When I was using a chain tool (pictured, works very well) to hold the crankshaft pulley in order to take the nut off, it left a little mark on the pulley where the serp belt goes, even though I put a piece of leather down to protect against exactly that. Should I sand it smooth?
BlackWorksInc
New member
That doesn't look too bad, about as bad as what I did on my 4Runner and so far it hasn't had any effect on the belt.
Yeah, I recommend a very thick piece of rubber or something when using those. They are great tools but can be mar pulleys sometimes.
4boer2
New member
I am confused with setting the correct timing. The 50* stuff isn't helping either. All I know is that the left and right arrows on the new belt go where the indentations are on the sprocket. I don't know anything else. Does the CR line go on this white dot (I made it more obvious) located on the crankshaft sprocket?
Here is where everything is currently at. I am about to put the new timing belt on. Where should everything be? I things new to be moved, is it ok to move them independently of each other?
Here is where everything is currently at. I am about to put the new timing belt on. Where should everything be? I things new to be moved, is it ok to move them independently of each other?
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BlackWorksInc
New member
The arrows on the belt are supposed to face to the front of the vehicle and not to the marks on the engine, common mistake.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Yeah I'd say I would turn the right cam about a tooth, everything else looks lined up. You'll probably feel the right cam wanting to twist back if I remember right when I did my timing belt, which is why its probably out a bit.
4boer2
New member
I am sorry to be annoying, but I want to make sure I do this correctly. I made some adjustments tonight. I set the crank to 0 and BOTH cams to the raised tick marks. If I am not mistaken, this is TDC. The old timing belt was removed and I am having trouble putting the new belt on with the current alignments. Do I have to just muscle it on?
Thanks
Thanks
BlackWorksInc
New member
That looks pretty good, I'd try and get the crank bolt as tight as close to spec as possible.
4boer2
New member
Finished! I did put that piece back on. I only had to take off the fan bracket. The car runs much better now. It is surprising. Even the cracked manifold tick is gone. I did accidentally puncture the radiator and had to plug it with some JB weld knock-off, so protect the radiators when you are working. Also 181 is easier than you think.
BlackWorksInc
New member
I would inspect the cam & crankshaft seals for signs of leakage while you're doing the timing belt, but usually they don't need replacement on the first timing belt. You can do the valve cover gaskets if you want (mine were not leaking at the time and I plan to replace them at the 120k mark when I do my valve clearance inspection, for which I will make a write-up of course.
)For the most part, Toyotas don't wear out seals as readily as other brands. Not to mention we don't really use seals as much as we use FIPG for things like the Oil Pan, front cover (on chain motors), ect.
Wronglane III
New member
So I'm planning on basically doing a Major Service on the 4Runner this Friday. Basically Timing Belt, Water Pump, Transmission Fluid Flush, ect. After spending quite a while searching the thread I didn't find a write-up on the process (surprisingly, I thought someone else did one already), so based on your guys enthusiastic support I'll do a write up!
The Goods:
Now, real quickly I'll tell you guys from my experience and the experience of my fellow elder and wiser techs that work with me I decided to skip over the idler bearings, the tensioner for the timing belt & drive belt, and also the seals for the cam & crank. Pretty much from what the guys have noticed over the years is that the idler bearings, tensioners, and seals on Toyotas don't go out nearly as much as say a domestic and to replace them only if you're having growling/ect. I was surprised as I'm used to replacing all that junk on Hondas and such, but decided to save myself some money and not use these parts, you can if you'd like.
Parts List:
(Pricing is what the dealer would charge you [the only exception being the engine oil as I got the pricing from Amsoil's website] I would recommend a website like Toyota Wholesale Parts - Authentic OEM Toyota Parts direct from Village Toyota Parts | Village Toyota Parts They are a great website that not only shows the part numbers but also pictures, I recommend it to everyone.)
- 13568-09070 Timing Belt $58.72
- 00295-00103 FIPG $13.82
- 90916-02585 Drive Belt $90.57
- 16100-09201 Water Pump $143.64
- 00272-SLLC2 Coolant (2 Gallons) $21.74 per Gallon
- 90916-03100 Thermostat $21.41
- 16346-50010 Thermostat Gasket $4.54
- 00289-ATFWS ATF WS (8Qts) $9.33 Per Quart
- ASLQT-EA Amsoil Signature Synthetic (8Qts) 5w-30 $10.15per Qt
- 1 Can Seafoam About $12
I just signed up because of your thread. You did an outstanding job,I know you have helped a lot of guys doing this.I have a 2004 GX470 which uses the same motor I believe. I chickened out on doing the timing belt myseld in the summer and had the dealership do it.
I have a question if you do not mind me asking. My fan is very slightly wobbeling and a very faint noise over the last 2 months is getting louder.It sounds like bearing starting to go. I am pretty sure its coming from the false water pump housing(fan clutch bracket).
Can I remove that bracket without taking off other accessories off? Thanks in advance.
BlackWorksInc
New member
You should be able to, if you look at like the 3-4th picture down it shows the engine partially torn down with the bracket exposed. If you take the fan shroud and the fan clutch off it should be easy to get to without removing much else.
I would see if the fan clutch is seated/bolted down properly, it might be loose since you said it seems to be sitting crooked.
