2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump

[Wronglane III]

You should be able to, if you look at like the 3-4th picture down it shows the engine partially torn down with the bracket exposed. If you take the fan shroud and the fan clutch off it should be easy to get to without removing much else.

I would see if the fan clutch is seated/bolted down properly, it might be loose since you said it seems to be sitting crooked.

Thanks for the reply. I will check that,but,it appears to be straight and the fan bolts are tight. When I start the truck,looking at the fan spin from the side,you can see it wobbles slightly.

 

[Wronglane III]

Does anyone have a part number for the Toyota hand pump to pump trans fluid into the trans? I searched online but came up empty.

 

[ben550]

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

Thanks for the post on the timing belt change.

I have a question about your comment on the transmission fluid. Do you recommend the drain and fill as you wrote or is it also an option to disconnect the cooling return line and drain it that way one or two quarts at a time? Would you stay away from the second option or is it ok to do?

Thanks.

 

[black4vcobra]

I'm getting ready to tackle this in a couple weeks and I have the Aisin belt/pump already. I also got 2 gallons of the Toyota coolant but when I check the owners manual it says the cooling system capacity for the V8 it says the capacity is 12.3 quarts. Do I need another gallon of coolant or does 4 quarts remain in the engine when the radiator is drained? Thanks

 

[Ask10]

^^After my belt change I ended up using about 10-11 quarts of coolant (replaced the radiator as well).

I used Toyota Red though, so my 2 gallons turned into 4 and I have plenty left.

 

[Velonici]

You guys have any other ideas to get the crank bolt off? So far Ive sat at it for about an hour with my impact and made a wooden holder out of 2x4 (2 holes for the bolts to thread into and one in the middle for the socket, Splintered). Ive got it soaking in PB blaster and going to see if that does anything. Ive been at this for about 4 hours now. My next idea is either make a holder out of metal, heat that sucker up or do the starter bump trick. I really want to try and avoid heat as I see that it has a rubber layer and I don't want to melt the plastic cover behind it. Also does anyone know the threads for the harmonic balance that you use to remove it? I got the loaner from autozone and non of them work. The M8x1.5 is the right size but doesn't seem to be the right pitch. I'm wondering if its been cross threaded.

 

[Ask10]

^^I used a tow chain, removed one of the power steering mounting bolts and put in a longer grade 8 bolt to secure the chain. Then I used another grade 8 bolt to mount the chain to the crank pulley and a long ass breaker bar (3 feet) and socket and gave it heaps. It bent both the bolts, but it broke loose ultimately. Best thing is, you can use this setup in reverse to tighten the bolt with ease.

Mine was rusted a bit to the point of a 650 ft/lb impact not being able to knock it loose. I actually shattered one of my normal 19mm 1/2 sockets as well, so I had to use an impact socket with the breaker bar.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

^^After my belt change I ended up using about 10-11 quarts of coolant (replaced the radiator as well).

I used Toyota Red though, so my 2 gallons turned into 4 and I have plenty left.

That's not how you make Toyota SLLC "Pink" coolant.

Toyota LLC is Red and is a LOW Silicate Formula, while Toyota SLLC is pink & pre-diluted and is a NO Silicate formula. All 4th Gens required Toyota SLLC.

I should probably finally get around to making an article one the differences of coolants, additives, and their effects; this seems to happen a lot. LoL

 

[Ask10]

That's not how you make Toyota SLLC "Pink" coolant.

Toyota LLC is Red and is a LOW Silicate Formula, while Toyota SLLC is pink & pre-diluted and is a NO Silicate formula. All 4th Gens required Toyota SLLC.

I should probably finally get around to making an article one the differences of coolants, additives, and their effects; this seems to happen a lot. LoL

^^Yep I knew that... Honestly I had no idea, the man at the counter handed me two gallons of red after I asked for coolant on an 03'.

EDIT: I also wasn't trying to imply I was going to make "Pink" coolant by diluting Red. I was under the impression that my truck actually took Red to begin with and that I would change it every 30k.

Curious though, is the pink required just for the reason of maintaining a service interval of 90k? (approx), like how Honda tried to claim 100k valve clearance checks to meet some BS consumer report statistic? The 2UZ is just basically an iron block and regular aluminum head motor right?

Interested in the explanation, and if it only matters because of the change interval, I'm fine for doing 20-30k change intervals. If not, well, I guess I'll be doing a coolant flush and such next week, haha.

 

[Velonici]

^^I used a tow chain, removed one of the power steering mounting bolts and put in a longer grade 8 bolt to secure the chain. Then I used another grade 8 bolt to mount the chain to the crank pulley and a long ass breaker bar (3 feet) and socket and gave it heaps. It bent both the bolts, but it broke loose ultimately. Best thing is, you can use this setup in reverse to tighten the bolt with ease.

Mine was rusted a bit to the point of a 650 ft/lb impact not being able to knock it loose. I actually shattered one of my normal 19mm 1/2 sockets as well, so I had to use an impact socket with the breaker bar.

I will have to keep that in mind if I ever have to do this again. I wound up building a metal brace to the 2 bolts. That along with a breaker bar and metal pipe were finally able to break it loose. This is basically what 7 hours of work looks like today.

 

[Ask10]

^^Don't you love it when a 10 second "step" turns into 7 hours of frustration and waste?

Glad you got it off though.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

^^Yep I knew that... Honestly I had no idea, the man at the counter handed me two gallons of red after I asked for coolant on an 03'.

EDIT: I also wasn't trying to imply I was going to make "Pink" coolant by diluting Red. I was under the impression that my truck actually took Red to begin with and that I would change it every 30k.

Curious though, is the pink required just for the reason of maintaining a service interval of 90k? (approx), like how Honda tried to claim 100k valve clearance checks to meet some BS consumer report statistic? The 2UZ is just basically an iron block and regular aluminum head motor right?

Interested in the explanation, and if it only matters because of the change interval, I'm fine for doing 20-30k change intervals. If not, well, I guess I'll be doing a coolant flush and such next week, haha.

Actually Toyota SLLC is 10yr/100k until the first service interval; after you reach 10yr/100k the interval is recommended 5yr/50k from then on out. I wouldn't regularly run Toyota LLC (Red Coolant) in the vehicle because it calls for a no silicate formula, but if you change it out at 20-30k it won't hurt to run what you have until then as the coolants are close enough that it won't cause serious damage in 20-30k. Just make sure you get the Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC or Toyota "Pink) next time.

 

[Ask10]

Actually Toyota SLLC is 10yr/100k until the first service interval; after you reach 10yr/100k the interval is recommended 5yr/50k from then on out. I wouldn't regularly run Toyota LLC (Red Coolant) in the vehicle because it calls for a no silicate formula, but if you change it out at 20-30k it won't hurt to run what you have until then as the coolants are close enough that it won't cause serious damage in 20-30k. Just make sure you get the Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC or Toyota "Pink) next time.

With 210k, I fully expect my motor to be long gone before I reach two coolant changes, haha. Maybe I'll stick with red

But that having been said, thanks for the explanation and sorry for the misinfo to anyone on my part.

 

[Cisco Kid]

This is where my timing marks ended up before removing the belt. With the crank on the dot at 50 degrees BTDC, the notches in the cam gears lined up with the with the T. I remember reading it or seeing it in a video that with the crank at 50 degrees BTDC, it puts the cams in a "neutral" positon to where the belt can be safely removed.

 

[Velonici]

Totally forgot I was going to post this up. I found a very well done 3 part video of a 2002 Tundra timing belt replacement. Same engine as ours. This might help some people out seeing the whole thing from start to finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TZTn1Arjho

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM1A0DWhRHc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0pkzk395y0

 

[black4vcobra]

This is where my timing marks ended up before removing the belt. With the crank on the dot at 50 degrees ATDC, the notches in the cam gears lined up with the with the T. I remember reading it or seeing it in a video that with the crank at 50 degrees ATDC, it puts the cams in a "neutral" positon to where the belt can be safely removed.

Wow I wish I would have seen this prior to this past weekend, it would have saved my entire Sunday. This is how the original belt came off my truck too but unfortunately my buddy and I did the timing belt 2 days in a row because, per the guide, the first time we installed the belt we put the cam notches at the straight lines while the crank mark was at the white dot. I got a P0016 and P0018 codes and the truck ran for crap. We got it right yesterday though.

Blackworksinc, to prevent people from getting this mixed up in the future, would you please edit your guide to show that when the crank is at TDC, that is when the cam notches are supposed to be on the straight marks. Additionally, another tip for your writeup is we found that only the front 2 bolts on the AC compressor have to be removed as those are threaded into the fan bracket. The rear bolt can stay and that saves a lot of problems when reinstalling the 2 bolts that needed to be removed.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Blackworksinc, to prevent people from getting this mixed up in the future, would you please edit your guide to show that when the crank is at TDC, that is when the cam notches are supposed to be on the straight marks. Additionally, another tip for your writeup is we found that only the front 2 bolts on the AC compressor have to be removed as those are threaded into the fan bracket. The rear bolt can stay and that saves a lot of problems when reinstalling the 2 bolts that needed to be removed.

Actually if you look at the FSM section I posted on the first page it shows that when the Crankshaft is at the 50° Before TDC (the FSM refers to that mark as Before) that it should line up with the straight line marks on the camshaft cover. I've noticed a few videos and other guides indicating using the other timing marks ( [MENTION=84120]nevada[/MENTION] and I mentioned the dependency after the belt is installed and the engine run earlier in the thread) and such and honestly for the life of me I cannot find anywhere in the FSM that accurately explains what the "T" mark's purpose is. This is mainly why I haven't changed my guide as it is accurate to the FSM (also my engine runs fine since its the one in the thread), so I don't want to alter it until I have more concrete data.

As for the 2 bolts on the A/C Compressor I may edit that in later, honestly I didn't have much issue with bolting the A/C Compressor back on; but I had the vehicle on a lift (which I realize many people don't have access to) so it may be more difficult to do on jack stands/in the driveway I can imagine.

I appreciate the feedback though.

 

[nevada]

I remember when I did my TB last year, that there was a discrepancy between this write-up, and my actual engine. I don't remember the details of it now though. it not being my first TB job, I just put the belt on, with the crank/cams timed to the same position as I took it off. because it was obviously correct, as it came from the factory that way.

I wish I would have taken pictures, but I was in a hurry, and didn't want to mess with getting cleaned up to handle the camera.

 

[black4vcobra]

Actually if you look at the FSM section I posted on the first page it shows that when the Crankshaft is at the 50° Before TDC (the FSM refers to that mark as Before) that it should line up with the straight line marks on the camshaft cover. I've noticed a few videos and other guides indicating using the other timing marks ( [MENTION=84120]nevada[/MENTION] and I mentioned the dependency after the belt is installed and the engine run earlier in the thread) and such and honestly for the life of me I cannot find anywhere in the FSM that accurately explains what the "T" mark's purpose is. This is mainly why I haven't changed my guide as it is accurate to the FSM (also my engine runs fine since its the one in the thread), so I don't want to alter it until I have more concrete data.

As for the 2 bolts on the A/C Compressor I may edit that in later, honestly I didn't have much issue with bolting the A/C Compressor back on; but I had the vehicle on a lift (which I realize many people don't have access to) so it may be more difficult to do on jack stands/in the driveway I can imagine.

I appreciate the feedback though.

Ya, I had actually printed that FSM out but it didn't prove much worth since we were rotating the engine with the crank pulley on and lining up the white mark with the white dot on the plastic timing cover. The FSM references a mark on the crank snout and a mark on the oil pump body (which is kinda hard to see) so we didn't want to go that route. Like you said though, it appears that it says the cam notches should be lined up with the straight mark when the crank is turned 50 degrees BTDC.

I'm thoroughly confused now though as other videos and write-ups have indicated that the crank should be at 0 degrees when the cams are lined up with the straight marks and I do know that following your guide as is made my engine run crappy and throw codes. Were the pictures you took from the factory installed timing belt? And if so, could there be a difference in timing the VVTI vs non-VVTI engines? (regardless of what the FSM states)

Yup, we had a lift and those AC compressor bolts weren't the worst but did take a couple minutes of finagling.

 

[nevada]

Ya, I had actually printed that FSM out but it didn't prove much worth since we were rotating the engine with the crank pulley on and lining up the white mark with the white dot on the plastic timing cover. The FSM references a mark on the crank snout and a mark on the oil pump body (which is kinda hard to see) so we didn't want to go that route. Like you said though, it appears that it says the cam notches should be lined up with the straight mark when the crank is turned 50 degrees BTDC.

I'm thoroughly confused now though as other videos and write-ups have indicated that the crank should be at 0 degrees when the cams are lined up with the straight marks and I do know that following your guide as is made the engine run crappy and throw codes. Were the pictures you took from the factory installed timing belt? And if so, could there be a difference in timing the VVTL vs non-VVTL engines? (regardless of what the FSM states)

Yup, we had a lift and those AC compressor bolts weren't the worst but did take a couple minutes of finagling.

I think there must be.
I ran into the same issue when I did mine. the timing marks from the factory didn't line up with the ones pictured here.