2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump

[blind squirrel]

I just changed my 04 belt. When the engine is at tdc on the crank, the lines on the cams lined up. If I advanced the crank 50 degrees to the white dot, the cams lined up with the T. You should update the pics so people don't get confused. :canada:

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I just changed my 04 belt. When the engine is at tdc on the crank, the lines on the cams lined up. If I advanced the crank 50 degrees to the white dot, the cams lined up with the T. You should update the pics so people don't get confused. :canada:

The problem is that when it's at the White Dot as per the FSM, it's supposed to line up with the Dashes next to the "T" marks per the FSM (the actual section on timing belt replacement from the factory service manual is linked for download at the beginning of the thread). It's been something that's been brought up that there seems to be a dependency in some engines. The thing is that we (members) have not found anything written by Toyota that a.) details the purpose of the "T" marks definitively and b.) explains why there seems to be a discrepancy in how the belt is actually done by some examples see online and that it doesn't seem to cause an issue.

I mean that has to be something like 15~20 degrees between the two marks which is quite a bit of difference in terms of cam timing. But the way I have outlined in the thread is basically what the FSM calls for and so far my engine hasn't exploded.

 

[superman3043]

Yeah I saw it both ways too. Mine was like blind squirrels. Crank TDC=| and 50* dot=T. I'd just say observe how your truck was in time before you take the old belt off and use that marking setup as a guideline. Like you said, it was running before and it ran after so I'm good. Maybe my cousins husband read something that said different than his set up and took it as gospel. If I'd have done that I would have been effed.

 

[chjghj]

I have not ruled out the idea of tackling this myself. I'd love to see the write-up. It would be especially valuable since you're around here a lot and the thread could be a good platform for follow-up Q&A on the details.

 

[blind squirrel]

I mean that has to be something like 15~20 degrees between the two marks which is quite a bit of difference in terms of cam timing. But the way I have outlined in the thread is basically what the FSM calls for and so far my engine hasn't exploded.

Wait, so those photos of your belt are taken at the same time? That's crazy! I thought you shot your crank at tdc then advanced it to the white dot. Took a photo of the cans and proceeded. That's nuts if some engines are different than others. Wonder what the percentage of trucks like that is.

 

[Parker1938]

What am I missing?

The problem is that when it's at the White Dot as per the FSM, it's supposed to line up with the Dashes next to the "T" marks per the FSM (the actual section on timing belt replacement from the factory service manual is linked for download at the beginning of the thread). It's been something that's been brought up that there seems to be a dependency in some engines. The thing is that we (members) have not found anything written by Toyota that a.) details the purpose of the "T" marks definitively and b.) explains why there seems to be a discrepancy in how the belt is actually done by some examples see online and that it doesn't seem to cause an issue.

I mean that has to be something like 15~20 degrees between the two marks which is quite a bit of difference in terms of cam timing. But the way I have outlined in the thread is basically what the FSM calls for and so far my engine hasn't exploded.

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION], I am about to do my timing belt and printed out the FSM that you posted. I don't see anything in it that mentions putting the crank shaft pulley at the white dot, or the "0" mark for that matter. All mentions are with the pulley off, so all you see is the crank shaft sprocket and that you line up the notch on the sprocket with the mark on the oil pump body. When these are lined up the cam pulleys should be lined up with the dash on the timing belt plates. The FSM continues to say that once you do this you then turn the crank shaft counter clockwise 50 degrees. That would put the cam pulleys on the other side of the dash from the "T". I am assuming this releases any tension on the cams. I've read the FSM and the Haynes Repair Manual and they describe the same procedures. What am I missing? I don't see mention of the crank shaft pulley and the white dot at all.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION], I am about to do my timing belt and printed out the FSM that you posted. I don't see anything in it that mentions putting the crank shaft pulley at the white dot, or the "0" mark for that matter. All mentions are with the pulley off, so all you see is the crank shaft sprocket and that you line up the notch on the sprocket with the mark on the oil pump body. When these are lined up the cam pulleys should be lined up with the dash on the timing belt plates. The FSM continues to say that once you do this you then turn the crank shaft counter clockwise 50 degrees. That would put the cam pulleys on the other side of the dash from the "T". I am assuming this releases any tension on the cams. I've read the FSM and the Haynes Repair Manual and they describe the same procedures. What am I missing? I don't see mention of the crank shaft pulley and the white dot at all.

The white dot on the plastic cover conveniently lines up with the little bump on the engine block, that's what I was pointing out in the post. So if it's lined up with the white dot it should be at that mark.

 

[Parker1938]

Got it. Thanks. I'll pay attention to that when I do mine and hope for the best.

 

[Dpassmore]

A gates belt came in the kit I used. I've used many gates timing belts over the years.
The marks on the belt were nowhere close to lining up with the marks on the pulleys.
I verified the part number and visually compared the two.
Runs perfect but the marks on the belt were like wth. Lol

 

[BlackWorksInc]

A gates belt came in the kit I used. I've used many gates timing belts over the years.
The marks on the belt were nowhere close to lining up with the marks on the pulleys.
I verified the part number and visually compared the two.
Runs perfect but the marks on the belt were like wth. Lol

The Factory Belt is directional, I would imagine the non-factory ones are as well? But as stated before, as long as the engine is physically in time when the belt is reinstalled; it will be fine (though the marks will be useless.)

 

[Dpassmore]

Yes, I tried it both ways. Then I was like piss on it, it's going on. Everything seems fine

 

[ellsworb]

Why oh why did they use a Phillips head on the grounding bracket on the compressor. Uggh. That was were I stopped last night. Time to extract that stripped POS and continue!

 

[jahmes143]

Why oh why did they use a Phillips head on the grounding bracket on the compressor. Uggh. That was were I stopped last night. Time to extract that stripped POS and continue!

That got me too. C'mon toyota! On the other hand, I love that Toyota uses only metric (on everything I've done at least). I think you could disassemble most of the vehicle with 4 metric sizes. Much easier than my Chevy's where it seems they just used a grab bag of random SAE/Metric hardware.

 

[ellsworb]

Pretty good go of it. Everything is reinstalled save the air intake and my left wheel. Gotta finish up the oil change and have new plugs to put in. I'll either finish tonight or tomorrow morning. In any event I think everything is back in there. Rotated the engine about 6 times just to make doubly sure there was no interference. Only thing that gave me any real trouble (aside from mistakes I did to myself) was reinstalling the power steering pump. Man what a pain it was for me to get that thing aligned.

For those DIYers out there, I elected to pull the radiator and both front wheels for more access.

 

[truckhigh]

Im gonna do this really soon are you guys replacing radiator hoses as well. I was thinking about doing since im changing coolant.

Has anybody had any upper and lower rad hose failures??

 

[blackoutt]

I replaced rad hoses as cheap insurance for a 100k mile vehicle. They looked fine minus a few crusties at the ends so I just saved them as spares. If your budget is tight for the timing belt job those would sure be the first place to cut a few dollars out of the job.

 

[jahmes143]

My radiator hoses felt good even with 100k on them and I've heard Toyotas come with some good hoses.

DIY tip: pulling the plugs makes it much easier to rotate the engine by hand. If you pull em, might as well replace em. Therefore, prior to doing this job I would Sea Foam the engine while still running on the old plugs. Yes Sea Foam says it doesn't hurt plugs but might as well do it just before you swap in new plugs just to be on the safe side.

 

[ellsworb]

All done and buttoned up! Drives fine.

But now I have the check engine light with VSC OFF VSC TRAC and ABS light. I'm wondering if it's caused by me having the battery disconnected for 3 days and the zero point calibration needing to re-calibrate. Or does that even apply to an '06? I've disconnected the battery again and will let it sit or an our and go reconnect before I have codes pulled.

Any thoughts?

 

[ellsworb]

New Revelation.

My timing is off. . . but it can't be off by much because there is no vibration or abnormal sounds. . and the acceleration and total power feel normal.

P0016 and P0018 codes present with the check engine light.

Frankly I don't have the time to dive back into this right now so I'm headed to my local shop to re-time. Unless there is a way I can loosen tension on the belt and re-time without removing the generator and compressor and radiator and all that other stuff.

I'm trying to think back to when I could have knocked one of those cam gears beyond the 1 and 1/2 tooth offsets. . . who knows.

 

[blind squirrel]

New Revelation.

My timing is off. . . but it can't be off by much because there is no vibration or abnormal sounds. . and the acceleration and total power feel normal.

P0016 and P0018 codes present with the check engine light.

Next time, if you ever do another belt..., when you roll the engine over 6 times or so make sure your timing lines line back up after rotating. The good news is 1 tooth or a half tooth off should not cause any damage to your engine. It does suck that you got it all back together and have an issue. Hope the shop you take it to gives you a good price!