88 4Runner Project! (Lots of Questions)
- Thread starter rusty904
- Start date
Thank you! The seats are Courbeau Baja RS's. The wheels are stock 16" steelies from a 1st Gen Tundra that I plasti-dipped Gunmetal. Tires are 265/75/16 BFG AT KO's. The seats along with the wheels/tires were on the truck when I bought it and both were major selling points.
I'm considering witching to 235/85/16's next time around though.
No I think they are custom brackets for the seats, they use the stock holes. I really like how low they sit compared to stock. Helps with the headroom and makes it easier to get in and out. The truck came with some awful dealer ad-on back seats so I found some stock ones instead. They don't match. I'm trying to decide whether I like the blue enough to try and match the back to it or just make the fronts gray to match the backs.
My mirror bolts don't seem to be factory, (sae sizing?) and are dripping rust all over my paint so I decided to remove them and slap a coat of paint on.
Had to remove the door card as one of the captive nuts were spinning but I got them off the truck ok. Now I want to remove the mirror from the bracket. It's a large torx bolt and I've soaked it in penetrating lube for a few days now. Still won't budge even with a pretty good amount of torque.
Am I missing something here? Is the mirror removed some other way or do I just have a super stubborn bolt?
Had to remove the door card as one of the captive nuts were spinning but I got them off the truck ok. Now I want to remove the mirror from the bracket. It's a large torx bolt and I've soaked it in penetrating lube for a few days now. Still won't budge even with a pretty good amount of torque.
Am I missing something here? Is the mirror removed some other way or do I just have a super stubborn bolt?
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onemanarmy
Member
truck looks amazing.
did you ever figure out the clutch issue? and the running rich issue?
did you ever figure out the clutch issue? and the running rich issue?
Thanks!
I bought a master and slave cylinder as they were super cheap but I haven't had the time/I've been too lazy to replace them. The leak on my current master cylinder is super slow and I haven't had to put fluid in it since I filled it up back in October.
The running rich issue hasn't seemed to be quite as prevalent lately though I think it still is as I still get that faint odor.
So the truck had been running pretty well after the engine swap but now I am having temperature issues yet again. The engine will heat up fast, usually at highway speed temp quickly rises up about 2/3rds up the gauge, stops, then goes down to around 1/2 way up the gauge. Temperature then pretty much continues to fluctuate never really going beyond 2/3rds up the gauge. Around town, it seems to run cooler.
Radiator looks good and was replaced just before I purchased the truck last february. All my coolant hoses are new, fan belt is new, thermostat is a new toyota OE unit. Truck is not leaking or eating any coolant and the coolant looks clean and fresh. No symptoms of head gasket issues, smells, milky oil cap, etc. No apparent leaks of any kind.
I'm not really sure where to look next?
Radiator looks good and was replaced just before I purchased the truck last february. All my coolant hoses are new, fan belt is new, thermostat is a new toyota OE unit. Truck is not leaking or eating any coolant and the coolant looks clean and fresh. No symptoms of head gasket issues, smells, milky oil cap, etc. No apparent leaks of any kind.
I'm not really sure where to look next?
steve in nc
New member
Any chance you have some air in the system? You could try burping the system and see if that helps.
I had a bad thermostat out of the box that drove me nuts.I bought new one, tested it on the stove before installing it. First one wouldnt completely open up.
4r is lookin nice. Mine is an 88, same color, black hardtop, but runs 1st gen alloys.
I had a bad thermostat out of the box that drove me nuts.I bought new one, tested it on the stove before installing it. First one wouldnt completely open up.
4r is lookin nice. Mine is an 88, same color, black hardtop, but runs 1st gen alloys.
I guess it's possible. I put a new factory toyota thermostat in there during my engine swap. That was around october. I have a new spare stant thermostat. I may just put it in and see what happens.
I have my black hardtop back on at the moment as well, where are you in NC steve? I just moved to charlotte.
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Nervo19
Member
So was mine. The Toyota code is 8D7 Medium Blue Metallic.
This is one of my favorite restorations and he uses the paint color:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/54630-project-88-restore.html
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Yeah I love it, never considered changing the color. I've never seen another one in person in that color.
Toyota4Runner1234
New member
Looks like a fun project wish I had one.
Been running the hard top for a while, mainly because I'm still looking for a place to store it when I mount the soft top. Problem is the rear window started failing intermittently and then stopped working all together. After a b it of sleuthing, I traced it to the relay box behind the driver's front seatbelt, it was fried.
I need to find a replacement for it to get my window working ASAP. Put up want ads all over, craigslist, local forums and here most recently.
Anyone have any idea for sourcing/making a replacement part?
I need to find a replacement for it to get my window working ASAP. Put up want ads all over, craigslist, local forums and here most recently.
Anyone have any idea for sourcing/making a replacement part?
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Not sure what the relay "box" looks like, but I would assume its just two relays wired together for up/down operation. Take a pic of the inside (both sides of it if its on a pc board) of it and I can tell you if its possible to just make one from two relays.
There should be two larger-gauge wires coming out of it, that should be for the window motor. the other wires will probably be a power, ground, and two other wires to tell it which way to go, up or down. So, if there's 6 wires going into that box, it should be pretty easy to do with just two 30/40A relays, some female spade crimp connectors and a bit of tape.
Did you ever fix the overheating issue? Easy way to test if you have air in the system is to turn the heat on full while around 2-3000 rpm. If you hear a gurgling sound, you have air and it needs to be burped.
There should be two larger-gauge wires coming out of it, that should be for the window motor. the other wires will probably be a power, ground, and two other wires to tell it which way to go, up or down. So, if there's 6 wires going into that box, it should be pretty easy to do with just two 30/40A relays, some female spade crimp connectors and a bit of tape.
Did you ever fix the overheating issue? Easy way to test if you have air in the system is to turn the heat on full while around 2-3000 rpm. If you hear a gurgling sound, you have air and it needs to be burped.
I did manage to get the overheating issue sorted!
This is the part in question, I need to get a pic of the inside of mine. I could just grab this on ebay but I am planning on a camping trip on monday and rear tailgate operation would of course be extremely helpful.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Run...ash=item3d1a05c3ec:g:a54AAOSw60lXMSrS&vxp=mtr
A local auto electrical shop quoted me $150 to make one. I'd like to do it myself but I don't have much electrical skill and no soldering equipment. I could probably figure it out with some decent instruction though.
This is the part in question, I need to get a pic of the inside of mine. I could just grab this on ebay but I am planning on a camping trip on monday and rear tailgate operation would of course be extremely helpful.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Run...ash=item3d1a05c3ec:g:a54AAOSw60lXMSrS&vxp=mtr
A local auto electrical shop quoted me $150 to make one. I'd like to do it myself but I don't have much electrical skill and no soldering equipment. I could probably figure it out with some decent instruction though.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Well, if you've never soldered before, this may not be something you'll want to tackle alone!
And 150 bucks is quite a bit for what I think is inside of that box! Crack open your box, take pics of both top and bottom sides of the pc board, I'm thinking I'll be able to spot the problem just by photos and you won't need to build the whole thing from scratch.
Of course, the easiest way is to just pay the $75 for that one on ebay, or try hitting all the internet toy junk yards to see if they have them cheaper.
And 150 bucks is quite a bit for what I think is inside of that box! Crack open your box, take pics of both top and bottom sides of the pc board, I'm thinking I'll be able to spot the problem just by photos and you won't need to build the whole thing from scratch.
Of course, the easiest way is to just pay the $75 for that one on ebay, or try hitting all the internet toy junk yards to see if they have them cheaper.
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