A/C O-Ring Sizes

[nismoxr34]

Hello Everyone,

Just wondering if one of you knew the size of the o-rings for the AC system. While trying to get my new UCAs in, i had to move some of the AC line out, I accidentally removed not the bracket, but the line with an oring and the even with just a slight leak and retighten, the oring is busted and needs replacement. I wanted to see if anyone knew the size, and then I can just drain and fill after.

It is pretty much next to the refill cap like pointed out here:

And it should be one of these o-rings. I will probably need to drain before I 100% pull out that o-ring but if no one knows, I guess thats the route I will go.

Kelvin

 

[Ron4RNevada]

You don't just drain and refill air conditioner refrigerant. You are going to need an A/C guy to do the job for you.

 

[nismoxr34]

I'm not going to drain and refill it myself, but I didn't want to pay 60 bucks to get the o-ring changed.

Looks like my o-ring is -113 3/32. This is basically the o-ring that holds the line to the frame, just in case anyone else was looking.

Now I just need to find out what specific material i need.

 

[1engineer]

I'm not going to drain and refill it myself, but I didn't want to pay 60 bucks to get the o-ring changed.

Looks like my o-ring is -113 3/32. This is basically the o-ring that holds the line to the frame, just in case anyone else was looking.

Now I just need to find out what specific material i need.

http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD 5700 Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf

 

[nismoxr34]

Wow, thanks for that reference [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]

Got to read through it now, and figure out the pressures and temps in that line.

Searched far and wide for AC o-rings, not much is on here for sizes and materials.

Thanks again.

 

[1engineer]

Wow, thanks for that reference [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]

Got to read through it now, and figure out the pressures and temps in that line.

Searched far and wide for AC o-rings, not much is on here for sizes and materials.

Thanks again.

Back in the day when I was designing high pressure multi stage hydraulic cylinders I would literally wear one of these catalogs out. Before the digital age lol.

Parker is the definitive name for seals and o-rings for OEMs. First thing you need to do is determine the actual refrigerant Toyota uses. To purchase a Parker O ring, just find out the nearest Parker store (or distributor) closest to you.

 

[Ducmonsta]

My .02
Just pay the $60 for someone to replace it. You'll probably have $150 in evac and recharge costs plus the cost of the refrigerant. If you install the wrong o-ring or damage it somehow while installing it, you'll be responsible for the leak and have to pay another shop to evac and recharge your a/c system again.

This is all moot if you plan on having someone with a can of refrigerant recharge it improperly at your local Autozone.

 

[nismoxr34]

@Ducamonsta

Understood, and I would love to do that but I've dealt with many o-rings in the past and understand what it takes to seal this. The O-ring catalog confirms what I need, the material and size (from old o-ring). But I will be looking at getting an evac and recharge (quoted at 160 and 140 from various dealers) after I change this o-ring.

I'll probably look into seeing if that 60 dollars is worth it, but as of right now I know that the material and size should match up to get the correct chemical compatibility and proper seal. The only reason the o-ring ruptured was due to the pressure.

 

[nismoxr34]

Just to let everyone know, i got this fixed on my own.

Had replaced the O-Ring (Neoprene) due to chemical compatibility.

Replaced the Freon myself, due to it being completely evacuated. Checked the system with nitrogen to check for any leaks with a bubble solution. Later checked the leak again using vacuum, pulled down to ~30inHg and used a "micron" meter to show how many microns of Hg the pressure raises, no leaks (650 microns with no creeping up). Then put in the appropriate amount (using a scale) of R134a to the high pressure side when pump was off.

Later checked the temperature out of vent and all was good.

No oil was lost from the compressor, so no need to change the oil out, just make sure there isn't water/air in the system.

 

[Lexusbstrdchild]

Just to let everyone know, i got this fixed on my own.

Had replaced the O-Ring (Neoprene) due to chemical compatibility.

Replaced the Freon myself, due to it being completely evacuated. Checked the system with nitrogen to check for any leaks with a bubble solution. Later checked the leak again using vacuum, pulled down to ~28inHg and used a "micron" meter to show how many microns of Hg the pressure raises, no leaks. Then put in the appropriate amount (using a scale) of R134a to the high pressure side when pump was off.

Later checked the temperature out of vent and all was good.

Good work!

 

[Ducmonsta]

Glad to hear its fixed. It also sounds like you know what you're dealing with and I'm refreshed to see that in a forum.

I'm sure you confirmed this but do our truck still take 134a and not the new 1234yf?

 

[nismoxr34]

Glad to hear its fixed. It also sounds like you know what you're dealing with and I'm refreshed to see that in a forum.

I'm sure you confirmed this but do our truck still take 134a and not the new 1234yf?

@Ducamonsta

Yes it does still take the 134a. You can find what type of refrigerant we need, and also the amount on a sticker under our hood.

and thanks [MENTION=3054]Lexusbstrdchild[/MENTION] feels great and ready for the summer's heat.

 

[Ducmonsta]

@Ducamonsta

Yes it does still take the 134a. You can find what type of refrigerant we need, and also the amount on a sticker under our hood.

and thanks [MENTION=3054]Lexusbstrdchild[/MENTION] feels great and ready for the summer's heat.

Haha. I know. I was just too lazy to get up off of my fat ass in front of my computer to pop the hood and look. In fact, I spent 2 mins to google it and gave up.

 

[Lexusbstrdchild]

When you started off saying how it had leaked out anyway, I figured you were going to say, so I just filled it back up lol! Good work on doing it right, I fix residential ACs for a living, sounds like you did your research, just not sure on if you bought the tools to fix it or just know a guy :biggrin2: FWIW, and I doubt anyone cares, micron gauge measures the tiny particles and contaminants in the system. So if you see it hold, maybe go up a tiny bit you know you did good. If it jumps up as soon as the vacuum is off, you have problems .

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Back in the day when I was designing high pressure multi stage hydraulic cylinders I would literally wear one of these catalogs out. Before the digital age lol.

Parker is the definitive name for seals and o-rings for OEMs. First thing you need to do is determine the actual refrigerant Toyota uses. To purchase a Parker O ring, just find out the nearest Parker store (or distributor) closest to you.

... Like ... a paper catalog? Just how old are you?

:fish:

Back when I did some engine rebuilding I remember flipping through stacks of catalogs for specs, sizes, materials of various bearings, components, ect. when rebuilding them. Not to mention there's this weird giant binder labeled "TSBs, Recalls, Campaigns" at the top of our dusty repair manual bookshelf... which seems weird since everyone knows all that crap only exists on the TIS website. lol
(Joking aside, it must have sucked in the days before networking for TSBs, campaigns, recalls, and updated parts.)

 

[Lester Lugnut]

Replaced the Freon myself, due to it being completely evacuated.

Curious. What about the oil?

 

[1engineer]

... Like ... a paper catalog? Just how old are you?

:fish:

Back when I did some engine rebuilding I remember flipping through stacks of catalogs for specs, sizes, materials of various bearings, components, ect. when rebuilding them. Not to mention there's this weird giant binder labeled "TSBs, Recalls, Campaigns" at the top of our dusty repair manual bookshelf... which seems weird since everyone knows all that crap only exists on the TIS website. lol
(Joking aside, it must have sucked in the days before networking for TSBs, campaigns, recalls, and updated parts.)

I am 117 years old...

I actually drew *gasp* on a board and used archaic stuff like templates, lettering guides and pencil pointers! Does anyone today know what an eraser bag is? I was pretty high tech though as I had an electric eraser...

We of course used calculators but in the 6th grade our math teacher taught us how to use a slide rule because the only calculators out there were the Texas Instruments with the red LED display. No LCD then lol. When I went to work as an engineer in '89 several of the old guys still used their slide rule and were amazingly fast and accurate with them.

I went to college in the mid and late '80's. Our engineering classes were obsolete before we took them.

I actually have a paper copy of the Machinery's Handbook on my desk because that is what I used (!)

 

[JeremyB]

Looks like my o-ring is -113 3/32. This is basically the o-ring that holds the line to the frame, just in case anyone else was looking.

Now I just need to find out what specific material i need.

Had replaced the O-Ring (Neoprene) due to chemical compatibility.

Replaced the Freon myself, due to it being completely evacuated. Checked the system with nitrogen to check for any leaks with a bubble solution. Later checked the leak again using vacuum, pulled down to ~28inHg and used a "micron" meter to show how many microns of Hg the pressure raises, no leaks.

No need to go through the trouble of using the Parker catalog. Mobile HVAC O-rings are pretty standard. Any auto parts store should be able to match up your o-ring and get you a new one cheap. You can buy a whole generic set for $10.

28inHg isn't enough to boil off the water remaining in the system that has been exposed to atmosphere. Water boils at ~100 deg F @28inHg. You mentioned using a micron gauge, so maybe you went well below this. My gauge only reads up to 12,000 microns (~29.4inHg).

The two main reasons to evacuate the system are to remove the air, since it hurts the refrigeration process, and to remove water. Excess water can be absorbed by the desiccant. However, PAG oil is extremely hygroscopic and can suck up moisture and lead to oil breakdown.

 

[1engineer]

No need to go through the trouble of using the Parker catalog. Mobile HVAC O-rings are pretty standard. Any auto parts store should be able to match up your o-ring and get you a new one cheap. You can buy a whole generic set for $10.

28inHg isn't enough to boil off the water remaining in the system that has been exposed to atmosphere. Water boils at ~100 deg F @28inHg. You mentioned using a micron gauge, so maybe you went well below this. My gauge only reads up to 12,000 microns (~29.4inHg).

The two main reasons to evacuate the system are to remove the air, since it hurts the refrigeration process, and to remove water. Excess water can be absorbed by the desiccant. However, PAG oil is extremely hygroscopic and can suck up moisture and lead to oil breakdown.

Yeah but you learn somethin' today using the Parker Catalog. (Kevin Hart reference)

 

[JeremyB]

Yeah but you learn somethin' today using the Parker Catalog. (Kevin Hart reference)

That catalog is 'da bomb!

I've also got a paper copy of the Machinery Handbook. One of the first times I used it, it was because it is actually wrong for lock-wire. The 75% fill requirement has no basis in reality. :doh: