Amazon sale on Pioneer - AVIC 920BT for super cheap

[olsen_karl]

Just placed my order. Amazon has several promotions going now, and they're apparently stackable:

30% off coupon code: B7IN95L6

Get an additional 10% off when you buy 2 or more Pioneer items:
Amazon.com: Save 10% When You Buy Two Items from a Selection of Pioneer Products

Pioneer has a $100 mail-in rebate for this head unit (link for the printable rebate is on the Amazon page for the AVIC 920BT).

Pioneer AVIC 920BT head unit, $995:
Amazon.com: Pioneer AVIC-X920BT 6.1-Inch In-Dash Double-Din…

Pioneer CD-IU50V ipod cable, $42: (NOTE: Out of stock at Amazon, but you can buy it from them; they'll ship later -- make sure you buy from Amazon and not this other party -- click the link on the right side of the page):
Amazon.com: Pioneer CD-IU50V USB Interface Cable for iPod/iPhone: Electronics

Here's what my total looked like at checkout:
Subtotal of Items: $1,037.28
Shipping & Handling: $20.60
Super Saver Discount: -$20.60 (free shipping from Amazon)
Promotion Applied: -$298.50 (the 30% coupon code)
Promotion Applied: -$103.73 (add'l 10% for buying a 2nd Pioneer item)
------
Total for this Order: $635.05

And then there's the $100 mail-in rebate... $535.05 total for the 920BT and ipod cable, total.

I was tempted to buy this head unit last month from Crutchfield, which was offering it for $1K, but including a set of Pioneer component speakers and the same ipod cable. $535 is a much better deal!

Now I just need to order the head unit trim kit (thinking of using the Scosche TA1465b, but I need to do some more shopping to see if there's any better option).

I also bought a PAC SWI-PS adapter, which will allow the use of the factory steering wheel controls on my 2008 4Runner: (about $45 shipped):
Amazon.com: Swi-ps Pioneer(r) & Sony(r) Universal Steering Wheel…

 

[4runneraj]

This looks like a sweet deal. Do you know if this head unit will work with the rest of the JBL system? I have a 2005 with JBL/6-CD unit and would to replace the head unit but keep the rest of the components

 

[RevoRunner]

This looks like a sweet deal. Do you know if this head unit will work with the rest of the JBL system? I have a 2005 with JBL/6-CD unit and would to replace the head unit but keep the rest of the components

It should work... you would just need the PAC TATO component and PAC SWI PS (if you want your steering wheel buttons to work).

I just did an almost exact same install yesterday with the Z120BT (basically the same thing as the 920.

Here's my thread, I will try to update it with info as I go along.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/audio-electronics/68780-pioneer-avic-z120bt-way.html

 

[GG Beast]

Thanks for posting! I just placed my order and the cable price came down a couple bucks. I've been hoping a deal would come along since I got my '05 4Runner a couple months back.

 

[olsen_karl]

All the parts of my Amazon order arrived. For any future reference, here's what I'm planning on installing:

Head unit: AVIC 920BT, with wired bluetooth microphone and ipod cable. The ipod cable will be routed into the little compartment underneath the HVAC controls; I have my ipod cable there now for the currently-installed Scion head unit, and I like the location. The GPS antenna will be mounted inside the dashboard; apparently this works pretty well on the 4Runner. I'll also install the SWI-PS kit to allow the factory steering wheel controls to function.

Front speakers: Infinity 6020cs 6.5" components, tweeters will go in stock location
Rear speakers: old Boston Acoustics RX67 6.5" coax (had them laying around)

I'm not going to install a separate amp, at least not right now. If I'm satisfied with the sound, I won't bother.

Miscellaneous parts:
Scosche TA1465B - trim kit (side pieces) for head unit (non-JBL/ non-Limited)
Scosche TA02B - wiring harness for head unit
Scosche SAT69 - front speaker adapter; allows for mounting 6.5" into factory 6x9 hole
Scosche SAT6 - rear speaker adapter; should work for mounting 6.5" into factory 6.75" hole - NOTE: this is not a recommended part by Scosche for the 4Runner; I cross-referenced some other speaker adapters for 4Runners vs. other Toyotas, and I believe this will work
Metra 40-UV43 - antenna Y-adapter - I'm going to try to patch both of the diversity antennas together
Metra 40-GM10 - antenna adapter - see above - this adapter converts the smaller of the two diversity adapters into the standard size, which will then plug into the Y-adapter. Both the adapters were pretty cheap ($7 total) so I'll give it a try.

I ordered all the misc parts from Welcome to D2D for about $42 shipped. I'm not bothering with speaker harnesses; I'll just snip the factory leads and crimp on connectors.

I'll update this thread later once I get around to installing everything. It'll probably be a few weeks though.

 

[RevoRunner]

Good luck with that... post up if you have any ???s

 

[GG Beast]

Hey Olsen_Karl, Just an FYI - The regular price of the head unit just dropped $100! I sent amazon an email last night regarding the price difference and they granted me an additional $100 refund for the difference in price! Makes it an even more amazing deal - $397 when all is said and done for the head unit!

(You might want to mention that you haven't installed it yet and that you're willing to send it back to get the better price - and there is another 30% off floating out there right now, but the additional 10% seems to be gone.)

 

[olsen_karl]

Hey Olsen_Karl, Just an FYI - The regular price of the head unit just dropped $100! I sent amazon an email last night regarding the price difference and they granted me an additional $100 refund for the difference in price! Makes it an even more amazing deal - $397 when all is said and done for the head unit!

(You might want to mention that you haven't installed it yet and that you're willing to send it back to get the better price - and there is another 30% off floating out there right now, but the additional 10% seems to be gone.)

Thanks! I'm going to try emailing Amazon and see what happens.

I haven't installed my H/U yet; been waiting on the installation brackets etc. from D2D Electronics. I wouldn't recommend buying from them. I'm not sure I'll ever get my order, but I'll give them another week before I open a PayPal dispute.

 

[olsen_karl]

I tried; got a quick rejection from Amazon saying they don't do post-purchase price adjustments.

What "magic language" did you use to get them to cough up the $100?

 

[olsen_karl]

I called and spoke to a CSR who was very helpful; she said they dropped the 30-day price adjustment policy in 2008, but given the big difference in price here, they are crediting me the $100.

Woohoo!

 

[GG Beast]

Excellent! Glad to hear you got it!

 

[olsen_karl]

Update: don't order from D2D Electronics. They're incompetent. I got a refund, and am ordering my installation parts from amazon.com -- a few $ more, but they won't screw up and lie to me for weeks.

 

[olsen_karl]

Miscellaneous parts:
Scosche TA1465B - trim kit (side pieces) for head unit (non-JBL/ non-Limited)
Scosche TA02B - wiring harness for head unit.

I'm really slow at getting around to doing these projects...

Finally installed the head unit (the 920BT), and can confirm that these are the correct trim kit and wiring harness for a 2008 SR5 4Runner (non-JBL). The Scosche trim kit doesn't look bad at all, IMHO. With this trim kit, you re-use the stock metal brackets to mount the head unit; the trim kit just screws on to fill up space on the sides of the head unit.

I wired up the Pioneer harness to the Scosche harness on the workbench (did the GPS parking brake bypass mod), and also wired up the PAC SWI-PS steering wheel controller. The PAC controller is a PITA to connect -- need to solder in a 150 ohm resistor (provided in the kit) inline with part of the wiring, and had to tap in to 3 of the OEM steering wheel control wires to connect it. Programming the PAC controller took another 40 minutes on its own. However, now that it's installed, I'm happy with it's functionality: I had read about some delay between pressing the steering wheel control and the stereo responding, but it's very minimal -- not really sure if it's any longer at all than the Scion stereo I had previously.

Now to program the head unit, hook up the Bluetooth to my phone, and (if I feel like it today) hook up some speakers.

 

[Hayden]

I'm really slow at getting around to doing these projects...

Finally installed the head unit (the 920BT), and can confirm that these are the correct trim kit and wiring harness for a 2008 SR5 4Runner (non-JBL). The Scosche trim kit doesn't look bad at all, IMHO. With this trim kit, you re-use the stock metal brackets to mount the head unit; the trim kit just screws on to fill up space on the sides of the head unit.

I wired up the Pioneer harness to the Scosche harness on the workbench (did the GPS parking brake bypass mod), and also wired up the PAC SWI-PS steering wheel controller. The PAC controller is a PITA to connect -- need to solder in a 150 ohm resistor (provided in the kit) inline with part of the wiring, and had to tap in to 3 of the OEM steering wheel control wires to connect it. Programming the PAC controller took another 40 minutes on its own. However, now that it's installed, I'm happy with it's functionality: I had read about some delay between pressing the steering wheel control and the stereo responding, but it's very minimal -- not really sure if it's any longer at all than the Scion stereo I had previously.

Now to program the head unit, hook up the Bluetooth to my phone, and (if I feel like it today) hook up some speakers.

About to do a AVH-P4200dvd install on Wednesday. Just got the PAC SWI-PS and 12v relay for bypass in the mail today. The SWIPS looks complicated as hell. Did you use any instructions other than what was included in the package? I think I understand the basics but any suggestions? How did that resistor end up looking? It looks quite exposed...should I heat shrink it?

 

[olsen_karl]

The SWIPS looks complicated as hell. Did you use any instructions other than what was included in the package? I think I understand the basics but any suggestions? How did that resistor end up looking? It looks quite exposed...should I heat shrink it?

I followed the instructions here:

Pac SWI-JACK Wiring Help Needed - Tacoma World Forums

INSTALL: Steering Wheel Interface 2006 Taco 4d 4wd JBL ( SWI-JACK ) - Tacoma World Forums

The resistor is totally exposed once you solder it in place. I didn't think shrink wrap tubing would protect it enough (flimsy), so I simply taped a short piece of electrical wiring next to the resistor (to provide strength), and wrapped the resistor + wire in electrical tape. I think it'll hold OK.

One tip: for the 4 wires from the SWI-PS that you do not use (not the looped wire, but the 4 with bare ends): cut off the pre-trimmed ends, then wrap each end in electrical tape. One of the problems I ran into when programming the SWI-PS was that the pre-trimmed ends were contacting each other in the bundle that I tied up, and preventing programming from working. Once I properly insulated them from each other, everything worked fine.

I ran the wires for the SWI-PS box over behind the glove box, so I can access the SWI-PS box easily (just remove the glove box door) if I need to re-program it. I don't know if it holds the settings if the battery is disconnected. I'd rather not have to tear apart the entire dash again just to reprogram that thing.

 

[Hayden]

I followed the instructions here:

Pac SWI-JACK Wiring Help Needed - Tacoma World Forums

INSTALL: Steering Wheel Interface 2006 Taco 4d 4wd JBL ( SWI-JACK ) - Tacoma World Forums

The resistor is totally exposed once you solder it in place. I didn't think shrink wrap tubing would protect it enough (flimsy), so I simply taped a short piece of electrical wiring next to the resistor (to provide strength), and wrapped the resistor + wire in electrical tape. I think it'll hold OK.

One tip: for the 4 wires from the SWI-PS that you do not use (not the looped wire, but the 4 with bare ends): cut off the pre-trimmed ends, then wrap each end in electrical tape. One of the problems I ran into when programming the SWI-PS was that the pre-trimmed ends were contacting each other in the bundle that I tied up, and preventing programming from working. Once I properly insulated them from each other, everything worked fine.

I ran the wires for the SWI-PS box over behind the glove box, so I can access the SWI-PS box easily (just remove the glove box door) if I need to re-program it. I don't know if it holds the settings if the battery is disconnected. I'd rather not have to tear apart the entire dash again just to reprogram that thing.

Thanks for the advice and tips. I will attempt my install this week and report back. I doubt I'll be pushing the SWIPS behind the glove box though...just sounds like a lot of extra work for not a ton of benefit.

H

 

[RevoRunner]

You might want to consider it depending on how many components you're installing. I installed the z120 and with all the PACs, GPS antenna and others it was really cramp. I ended up moving my Sirius radio and backup camera components down where the shifter is.

If you're not installing a whole bunch of extraneous components then you should be okay.

 

[olsen_karl]

Thanks for the advice and tips. I will attempt my install this week and report back. I doubt I'll be pushing the SWIPS behind the glove box though...just sounds like a lot of extra work for not a ton of benefit.

H

I didn't follow the instructions from that other link regarding adding a bunch of extra wiring. I added maybe 6" of wiring for the two white wires (1 with resistor in line, 1 plain wire), and that turned out to provide enough slack in the wires that I could run the blue PAC box over near the glove box.

In other words, I wasn't planning on routing the PAC box to a remote location when I wired it on the workbench; it just turned out to have enough slack in the wiring that I could move it behind the glove box.

 

[Hayden]

I didn't follow the instructions from that other link regarding adding a bunch of extra wiring. I added maybe 6" of wiring for the two white wires (1 with resistor in line, 1 plain wire), and that turned out to provide enough slack in the wires that I could run the blue PAC box over near the glove box.

In other words, I wasn't planning on routing the PAC box to a remote location when I wired it on the workbench; it just turned out to have enough slack in the wiring that I could move it behind the glove box.

Oh I see. Good call.

I am only installing the PAC and a 12v relay as a bypass for my P4200dvd so it shouldn't be too cramped. I'll take a pic of the finished product...if it ever gets finished haha.

 

[Hayden]

So I soldered the 150ohm resistor inline with a "white wire extension" and then cap crimped those three white wires together...but what am I going to be connecting the white wires to exactly? It keeps saying port 6,7,8...but ports on what connector? Is there some steering wheel module that I'll see after I take apart the dash? It can't be the radio connector because I have a wiring harness right in front of me and it doesn't have ports 6,7,8...it only goes to 6 and 2,3,4,5 are mising. WTF AM I WIRING TO?

My plan is to take apart the dash to see all the wires and hopefully the answer will reveal itself but right now I feel like a complete dumbass.