Berty's OEM+ Build Thread
- Thread starter Berty_K
- Start date
Berty_K
Member
I have the standard JBAs.
I did have some rubbing initially, but no more after I pulled my fender liners forward a bit. Was a piece of cake.
The spare is a bit of a tight squeeze, but it fits.
Berty_K
Member
Replaced the passenger front differential axle seal. Was my first time pulling out the CV axle. Whole job took about 2.5 hours. I'll post my thoughts later.
Also got to use this Locknlube grease coupler. Total game changer for working with a grease gun to grease the zerk fittings on my car. Wish I had gotten it earlier. Made the entire process a breeze. No more busted knuckles, stuck fittings, or grease leaks.
Also got to use this Locknlube grease coupler. Total game changer for working with a grease gun to grease the zerk fittings on my car. Wish I had gotten it earlier. Made the entire process a breeze. No more busted knuckles, stuck fittings, or grease leaks.
Berty_K
Member
Adding a Transmission Cooler
Finally added a transmission cooler. Felt my transmission was struggling last summer with my 33” tires and roof top tent (which I recently upsized).
My goal was a clean, OEM look. I really wanted to avoid ugly brackets. I’m very happy how the install turned out.
Here's what I needed for the install:
Tips for the install:
Some helpful links I referenced
Now for some pictures
In the process:
Close-up of mounted cooler:
30 mm Spacer:
Finally added a transmission cooler. Felt my transmission was struggling last summer with my 33” tires and roof top tent (which I recently upsized).
My goal was a clean, OEM look. I really wanted to avoid ugly brackets. I’m very happy how the install turned out.
Here's what I needed for the install:
- Derale 13503 Plate & Fin Cooler. Tube and fin coolers are the least efficient, then plate and fin (what I bought), then stacked plate.
- Hayden 106, 4' Transmission Line
- .25 Quart ATF Fluid
- 1 Rivnut (I used an M8 because I didn't have an M6)
- 30 mm M6 Spacer
- M6 Nuts: 40 mm (for offset mounting), 20-25 mm for mount to crossmember
- M8 Nut: 20-25 mm into rivnut
- Abrasion protection sleeve for transmission line
- Other tools for checking transmission oil level (see referenced link
Tips for the install:
- This is an in-series install. Not a bypass (not recommended based on my research). Transmission cooler comes after the radiator, and the output from the cooler goes back to the transmission.
- Bottom inlet is the input and top is the output. This orientation is recommended to minimize chances of an air bubble gets stuck in the cooler, thereby decreasing efficiency
- As far as I understand, you cannot over-cool transmission fluid. So, I chose not to install a bypass valve for the transmission cooler, which bypass the transmission cooler on startup to help it get up to temp faster.
- I only needed to drill one hole and install one Rivnut (I used an M8 because I didn't have an M6 Rivnut. Bothers my OCD but whatever.) Other two mounting points used already threaded holes. See my pic. I needed a 30 mm spacer for one of the mounting points (see pic)
- When you add ATF and run the ATF fluid temperature check process, expect to wait MUCH longer. I waited 45 minutes (normally around 20 min) for the temp to come up to “measuring temp.” Towards the end of the process, I realized I could speed up the process by restricting flow to the transmission cooler with a fancy, high tech piece of cardboard. Place cardboard infront of the cooler to block airflow through it.
- Took about 3 hours for the entire process
- Remove the bumper. Its annoying but the extra space made the install much easier
- Remove bottom skid plate for easier plumbing
- IMPT: When drilling into the cross member, realize the AC condenser is inches away from the tip of your drill bit. IF you puncture the AC condenser, you're going to have a very bad day. Work around is simple. Take a piece of steel, aluminum, plywood, etc and wedge between the condenser and cross member.
Some helpful links I referenced
- Proper tune routing instructions:2006 4.0L Transmission cooler installation, with some pics. - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
- Helpful general DIY:How To: 4th Gen V6 Radiator Replacement/Tranny Cooler Install | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]
- How to put car in ATF Temp Check mode:How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission | Tacoma World
Now for some pictures
In the process:
Close-up of mounted cooler:
30 mm Spacer:
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JVC8790
New member
Looks great! I've been telling myself I need to add an extra tranny cooler, I just have't yet. My thought was to do a much bigger one in place of the one in the radiator. My background in Volvos with trans/oil coolers built into the radiator tells me that removing extra connections and or failure points isnt a bad idea.
Berty_K
Member
Morimoto Mini D2S
New projectors are installed. I went with Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 bixenon projectors with Osram Xenarc CBI bulbs. I chose the Morimoto over the G5R because I wanted a more balanced output.
The projectors were retrofitted into my projector housings. Bracket was from Custom Bracket Designs.
Comparison picture of OEM projector (in my hand) and Morimoto D2S 5.0 projector (mounted in housing).
Here's how I originally mounted the projector & bracket
Unfortunately, this created clearance issues for me with the factory shroud and lens
The shroud touching the lens is no problem, but I was getting alignment issues on the passenger side due to the shroud interference. My solution:
Output shot:
Overall, I'm very happy with the setup and well worth the cost and time. Huge difference in output (both low and highbeam).
New projectors are installed. I went with Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 bixenon projectors with Osram Xenarc CBI bulbs. I chose the Morimoto over the G5R because I wanted a more balanced output.
The projectors were retrofitted into my projector housings. Bracket was from Custom Bracket Designs.
Comparison picture of OEM projector (in my hand) and Morimoto D2S 5.0 projector (mounted in housing).
Here's how I originally mounted the projector & bracket
Unfortunately, this created clearance issues for me with the factory shroud and lens
The shroud touching the lens is no problem, but I was getting alignment issues on the passenger side due to the shroud interference. My solution:
- Move bracket to front of projector (some dremeling was required to open up the bracket)
- Open up the plastic backing on the old projector (image below)
Output shot:
Overall, I'm very happy with the setup and well worth the cost and time. Huge difference in output (both low and highbeam).
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Berty_K
Member
Suspension Air Lift
With the extra weight on my 4Runner, I noticed some significant squatting on my last trip. The ride wasn't great and my headlight aim was completely off. I decided to purchase a Air Lift 1000 kit to fix the squatting.
Which Kit to buy
For our stock 4Runners, Air lift recommends their 60809 Kit. However, many of us (including me) are running a rear lift. I, for example, have about 1.5 to 2 inches of lift in the rear. As such, I chose to go with a kit with a slightly taller bag: 60744 Air Lift Kit. This kit is about 1" taller.
Installation is relatively straight forward. I won't cover the steps here, but will share some helpful DIY's I referenced:
Some helpful information I'd like to provide.
With the extra weight on my 4Runner, I noticed some significant squatting on my last trip. The ride wasn't great and my headlight aim was completely off. I decided to purchase a Air Lift 1000 kit to fix the squatting.
Which Kit to buy
For our stock 4Runners, Air lift recommends their 60809 Kit. However, many of us (including me) are running a rear lift. I, for example, have about 1.5 to 2 inches of lift in the rear. As such, I chose to go with a kit with a slightly taller bag: 60744 Air Lift Kit. This kit is about 1" taller.
Installation is relatively straight forward. I won't cover the steps here, but will share some helpful DIY's I referenced:
Some helpful information I'd like to provide.
- I found a lot of conflicting information on how many "pucks" to cut off of the rear bump stops. Cut them all off. Air lift suspension works by filling the gaps between the coils, preventing them from compressing. This essentially make the coil stiffer, helping keep your rear end from squatting. The bump stops shouldn't be compressing the air bags. According to Air Lift, its better to be slightly undersized than oversized (see third bullet).
- Linked vs Unlinked Bags: Linked means air can transfer from side to side. Unlinked means air cannot transfer from side to side. There are pros and cons to both. Linked- More articulation off road as air can transfer between bags. Unlinked- Similar to adding a stiffer sway bar, also independent control of air pressure means you can fine tune for uneven weights. I used an air switch from McMaster-Carr to be able to link & unlink the bags: 6791T13
Really enjoy your thorough updates! I can't wait to see what the processes you take to do the rust treatment, something I need to do.
Will be curious to see what you'll end up doing.
My buddy and I found a shop near fox lake that is certified by fluid film. I think we're going to clean up the surface rust and pay them a 100 and have them spray it.
Berty_K
Member
Thanks! Trying to pay it forward. I've learned so much from this forum.
$100 isn't bad actually when you consider a 6 pack of FF costs about $50. I'm not looking forward to dealing the nasty smell, overspray, etc.
Berty_K
Member
Battery Box
After flirting with the idea of adding a dual battery under the hood, I realized a battery box would be (1) simpler to implement and (2) a better overall solution than having another battery under the hood.
I have a plywood drawer system and was able to mount everything in the nook between the 2nd row seats and the drawer system.
This is my first time working on electrical components. I thought I could get away with solder and not a proper wire crimper. After trying to solder one connection, I decided to buy a proper crimper. While soldering connections may be cheaper if you have everything you need, soldered connections are messy and they create a rigid connection which is prone to failure from vibration-- solder isn't flexible.
Plenty of people shit on the Harbor Freight crimper because the die sizes aren't correct (they aren't), but you can easily get around this by using a bigger die size. Don't make the same mistake I did. Buy the damn crimper.
I used 6 and 4 AWG wiring cable along with the following key components:
Wiring Schematic:
Final Product:
After flirting with the idea of adding a dual battery under the hood, I realized a battery box would be (1) simpler to implement and (2) a better overall solution than having another battery under the hood.
I have a plywood drawer system and was able to mount everything in the nook between the 2nd row seats and the drawer system.
This is my first time working on electrical components. I thought I could get away with solder and not a proper wire crimper. After trying to solder one connection, I decided to buy a proper crimper. While soldering connections may be cheaper if you have everything you need, soldered connections are messy and they create a rigid connection which is prone to failure from vibration-- solder isn't flexible.
Plenty of people shit on the Harbor Freight crimper because the die sizes aren't correct (they aren't), but you can easily get around this by using a bigger die size. Don't make the same mistake I did. Buy the damn crimper.
I used 6 and 4 AWG wiring cable along with the following key components:
- Go Wise 1000W Pure Sine Inverter (Link)
- Victron Isolated 18 AMP DCDC Smart Charger(Link)
- Duracell 24M Deep Cycle AGM Battery (Link)
Wiring Schematic:
Final Product:
Berty_K
Member
Rust Treatment
Overall, this was a massive pain. Make sure you don't skimp on PPE! I had a full tyvek suit, eye/ear protection, and a p100 respirator. This stuff is nasty.
For scraping, I'd recommend a flap disc and wheel brush on an angle grinder.
Overall, this was a massive pain. Make sure you don't skimp on PPE! I had a full tyvek suit, eye/ear protection, and a p100 respirator. This stuff is nasty.
- Scrap off all rust (This was easily half the project)
- Clean with acetone
- Paint on a layer of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum
- Dry for 4-48 hours
- Paint with Extreme Chassis Black
For scraping, I'd recommend a flap disc and wheel brush on an angle grinder.
Berty_K
Member
DIY $400 Roof Rack
I also wanted a roof rack, but didn't want to pay $1K. So I made my own.
I used this video for inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSOVnRDGtS4&t=0s, but had to make some adjustments because the video was for 5th gens.
Overall very pleased how things turned out. I used bedliner for easy touch up. No wind noise.
I also wanted a roof rack, but didn't want to pay $1K. So I made my own.
I used this video for inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSOVnRDGtS4&t=0s, but had to make some adjustments because the video was for 5th gens.
Overall very pleased how things turned out. I used bedliner for easy touch up. No wind noise.
Berty_K
Member
Brake Bleeding
Planning on doing this for the first time this weekend (oops). Notes go here.
Materials
Procedure
Reference: Toyota 4Runner Brake Fluid Flush
Planning on doing this for the first time this weekend (oops). Notes go here.
Materials
Procedure
- Attached Motive Power Bleeder (dry) to master cylinder, pressurize to 15 PSI, and check for leaks
- Remove Power bleeder
- Remove old Brake Fluid from master cylinder with turkey baster
- Fill Power Bleeder with clean fluid
- Pressurize to 15 PSI
- Bleed in following sequence: passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger front, driver side front
Reference: Toyota 4Runner Brake Fluid Flush
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AuSeeker
Elite Member
This is the first time I ever heard of anyone flushing their brake system using "battery fluid"....but your brakes should get a hell of a charge doing that way, definitely a new meaning to "power brakes"!!! :rapture:
Berty_K
Member
LOL. Not enough sleep or coffee.
