The4kbeast
New member
Turns out that two are 13/32 (BFG lists them as 16/32 new) and the other three are 5/32. They can be found as cheap as $200 new. Waiting for the guy to give me a price.
>BUILD THREAD< The4kbeast's 3rd-Gen 2000 T4R SR5 (Highlander Edition) 4x4 Build
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Turns out that two are 13/32 (BFG lists them as 16/32 new) and the other three are 5/32. They can be found as cheap as $200 new. Waiting for the guy to give me a price.
Yoter
New member
Great minds do think alike.
First of all there is a user on here running 99 tall coils on the 5th perch of the tundra 5100's.
(Will look for link)
I am on the first perch, I will take some measurements later today, need to go find some level ground. I also do have a micrometer (somewhere)...
They were yellow yellow and yellow blue but I painted them silver to match the body and 5100's. I got them used from another user here on the site, so its likely I have considerable sag. In the excitement of getting my lift installed forgot to take before measurements.
First of all there is a user on here running 99 tall coils on the 5th perch of the tundra 5100's.
(Will look for link)
I am on the first perch, I will take some measurements later today, need to go find some level ground. I also do have a micrometer (somewhere)...
They were yellow yellow and yellow blue but I painted them silver to match the body and 5100's. I got them used from another user here on the site, so its likely I have considerable sag. In the excitement of getting my lift installed forgot to take before measurements.
The4kbeast
New member
Doh! I just about made the same mistake, but then spent way too much time documenting everything. The broken in springs are probably better. At least theres no settling. Measure your hub to fender dimension, it'd be interesting to compare. Might also be interesting to start counting coils and tracking spring dia, hadn't thought to measure that for my build.
Did a summary of my lift and impressions, thanks for the link. Funny enough, I remember reading that thread awhile back. Link:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...coma-5100s-vs-tundra-5100s-2.html#post1217665
The4kbeast
New member
Zzz... Baby went back to sleep, time to get a few hours sleep. Going to do my LBJs and help my buddy with a 97 to replace his radiator and thermostat later this am. Zzzzz
The4kbeast
New member
Locating Genuine Toyota replacement radiator, PN 16410-YZZAJ - third store has it in STOCK... sweet!
Sean was like a kid at Christmas... Just about to put the new OEM radiator in my buddies 97 Runner.
That was yesterday, this is today... Installed new OEM lower ball joints on mine today. For anyone that has struggled with putting the lower shock mount bolt in when installing a lift on the front for the first time, just replace the lower ball joints and do it all at the same time. Even if your not replacing the lower ball joint, if you simply undo the steering knuckle to lower control arm castle nut and press out the ball joint, you can install the strut and just jack the lower control arm up to the knuckle assembly. So much easier!
Sean was like a kid at Christmas... Just about to put the new OEM radiator in my buddies 97 Runner.
That was yesterday, this is today... Installed new OEM lower ball joints on mine today. For anyone that has struggled with putting the lower shock mount bolt in when installing a lift on the front for the first time, just replace the lower ball joints and do it all at the same time. Even if your not replacing the lower ball joint, if you simply undo the steering knuckle to lower control arm castle nut and press out the ball joint, you can install the strut and just jack the lower control arm up to the knuckle assembly. So much easier!
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The4kbeast
New member
Pic of the OEM ball joints... I decided it was a good idea to get new bolts, too:
Old versus new:
Completed. Not wild about the extreme angle on the upper ball joint at full droop. Would be nice to figure out the angle the upper bolt is sitting at. Regardless, my LR UCAs should be delivered any day now. Hope I can make time for an install and alignment so I can it Ocotillo!
Old versus new:
Completed. Not wild about the extreme angle on the upper ball joint at full droop. Would be nice to figure out the angle the upper bolt is sitting at. Regardless, my LR UCAs should be delivered any day now. Hope I can make time for an install and alignment so I can it Ocotillo!
The4kbeast
New member
Ok this deserves its own post. Note how close the spring is to the outer upright. Passenger side:
Driver's side:
Glad to have LR UCAs on the way!
Driver's side:
Glad to have LR UCAs on the way!
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SCRunner12
New member
I'm curious as to why you went with the Tundra TRD lift as apposed to a coilovers like ICON, SAW and the such. It seems like you research everything extensively and are willing to up front the money for new parts. Nothing against the TRD lift as I had it before as well, just curious.
BrianSD_42
New member
I'm curious .. are you implying that the more expensive coil-overs like ICON or SAW are superior to a Tundra TRD lift like the SS 1.2 ? Because I did extensive research as well ad came to the opinion that a proper TRD lift is the way to go. I have had the SS 1.2 for 4+ years now and it still performs and rides great.
SCRunner12
New member
Because in certain aspects they are. In his previous posts he focuses on suspension travel pretty thoroughly. I have nothing against the TRD lift, but you can gain more travel and adustability with a coilover like ICON, FOX and KING. ICON and Fox have extended travel coilovers, which will acheive greater travel and seems more inline with his methodology and goals. Also a coilover will allow greater adjustment of ride heights that is not easily attained with a TRD lift. You're pretty much stuck with a height designated by the perches on the 5100's or by adding spacers.
Also some coilovers can have a resivoir added to increase performance of the suspension and reduce shock fading. Can't do that with a 5100. Plus since he is heading to Ocotillo he probably will be doing some higher speed stuff, which coilovers are far superior than 5100's and TRD's.
To compare the TRD/5100 set up to an ICON or FOX coilover is a bit of a stretch IMO.
BrianSD_42
New member
I understand the selling points I just feel they apply more to Taco as that are modded for a wide stance and fly around the desert at 50+ MPH in sand.
Our 4Runners can't safely travel at the same speeds as a modded Tacoma or jump as safely so I think the commonly stated advantages don't hold water. I also disagree that the lift is a problem. I that that is mainly marketing. Sure if you modify the a-arms that is one thing but that would be a totally separate mod.
I have driven a over Octillo and AzaBorego down here in SoCal without issues. The setup really performs great and I don't think it is worth the cash to switch. I also doubt that any of those brands shocks will last 10/yrs 100k miles like the Toyota and Bilstien suspension will. It costs $$$ to re-pack or refurb those coil overs.
I will take this in another thread but my points are stated.
Our 4Runners can't safely travel at the same speeds as a modded Tacoma or jump as safely so I think the commonly stated advantages don't hold water. I also disagree that the lift is a problem. I that that is mainly marketing. Sure if you modify the a-arms that is one thing but that would be a totally separate mod.
I have driven a over Octillo and AzaBorego down here in SoCal without issues. The setup really performs great and I don't think it is worth the cash to switch. I also doubt that any of those brands shocks will last 10/yrs 100k miles like the Toyota and Bilstien suspension will. It costs $$$ to re-pack or refurb those coil overs.
I will take this in another thread but my points are stated.
The4kbeast
New member
My goodness, this is an awesome video: 25460 - Tacoma Adjustable Upper Control Arms - Specialty Products Company - YouTube
All hail xcmountain80, king of the Internet: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...sion-component-replacement-2.html#post1072782
Some good front suspension information. The notes on building expedition vehicles are worth a read. Add lightness and durability is a good montra: http://www.bajataco.com/FrontSusp.html
All hail xcmountain80, king of the Internet: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...sion-component-replacement-2.html#post1072782
Some good front suspension information. The notes on building expedition vehicles are worth a read. Add lightness and durability is a good montra: http://www.bajataco.com/FrontSusp.html
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The4kbeast
New member
I had a masterful set of witty responses that took so long to type that the site timed out and erased my $hit. Dang. Ok, short version it is..
The Tundra lift cost me half what the full Icon setup would. I was only looking for a mild 2" lift that would give me better, reliable suspension quality so I could get out there and explore. I also wanted a low maintenance setup. Not saying any of the other esteemed companies are worse. They all have their strengths and selling points.
Love that reliability. The TRD Tundra lift is just one of the great options available out there for our rigs. It's awesome that there are so many different types of suspension systems, because they were all designed with slightly different uses in mind. Heck, they all have their selling points. It's hard to say which one is better. But I would put the Icon system near the top of the pyramid. But for my use, it's a bit extreme.
They all have their strengths. They're also all way out of my price range. Heck even the SAWs are nearly double the price of m Tundra setup. I don't think I'll romp around hard enough to need to double what I would have spent on my system
No worries, opinions are welcome here. If you don't say it, some one else is thinking it and not saying anything. Św
The Tundra lift cost me half what the full Icon setup would. I was only looking for a mild 2" lift that would give me better, reliable suspension quality so I could get out there and explore. I also wanted a low maintenance setup. Not saying any of the other esteemed companies are worse. They all have their strengths and selling points.
Love that reliability. The TRD Tundra lift is just one of the great options available out there for our rigs. It's awesome that there are so many different types of suspension systems, because they were all designed with slightly different uses in mind. Heck, they all have their selling points. It's hard to say which one is better. But I would put the Icon system near the top of the pyramid. But for my use, it's a bit extreme.
They all have their strengths. They're also all way out of my price range. Heck even the SAWs are nearly double the price of m Tundra setup. I don't think I'll romp around hard enough to need to double what I would have spent on my system
No worries, opinions are welcome here. If you don't say it, some one else is thinking it and not saying anything. Św
The4kbeast
New member
Dimensions for Light Racing Upper Control Arms, P/N: 25460
Sweet... Light Racing Upper Control Arms, P/N: 25460
These things are HUGE! : )
1 1/2" of bolt adjustment allows for 4* of camber adjustment:
Outer control arm bushing Diameter, 2 1/4":
Inner hole diameter, 1":
Mount width:
Hmmm... .8/hr to. Install per side, eh?
Sweet... Light Racing Upper Control Arms, P/N: 25460
These things are HUGE! : )
1 1/2" of bolt adjustment allows for 4* of camber adjustment:
Outer control arm bushing Diameter, 2 1/4":
Inner hole diameter, 1":
Mount width:
Hmmm... .8/hr to. Install per side, eh?
The4kbeast
New member
Thanks, Qyota. The upper arms may go in a little quicker than I would hope for documenting to be thorough (getting some help tonight). Guess that's an odd thing to say, but if I'm going to be able to hit the trails I need to get the arms on so I can get it in for an alignment Friday. May hit the mountains and go from Corona to Elsinore the hard way, instead of going to Ocotillo. Have to charge the GoPro!
Oh, and my brother just picked up a 4runner as well. Welcome him to the community if you see him... I don't even know his SN on here yet, but I know he's lurking. Lol
The4kbeast
New member
The LR UCA Install: Part I
Although the install video a few posts earlier says to support the vehicle in the loaded position, and the written instructions neglect to say. Light Racing had a issue with their bushings, as it sounds like their old spec front upper arm actually transmitted some torsional stress through the bushing that would make them fail. LR has fixed it now with their Spec Ride bushing which is a clever marketing name to show that they stand behind their product and have fixed the issues with the arm. These new bushings appear to tighten metal to metal like the OEM upper bolt and bushings do, except that they are urethane.
Just the simple instructions... These look to be better tha the initial instructions. I've read the earlier instructions were worthless.
Passenger arm at level ride height:
Passenger arm at full droop. There is spring contact.
Tip to removing (AND SAVING TO REUSE) the plastic OEM under fender plugs: don't. It them like the install video shows, get a few different sets of needle nose and access the back of them through the engine bay. This one is located right past the air cleaner box (guess no pic of it in, just out):
It may seem like a pain, but there are two different stops on these plugs. Just keep them pinched on the backside and wiggle them back and forth, pushing through. Here's the back side:
DRIVER'S SIDE:
Started on the drivers side. I removed the battery to make room for the upper control arm bolt to have room, but if you remove three bolts, you can move two electrical harnesses that are in the way and possibly save yourself yanking the battery. Would have tried it if I could have felt the other upper bolt... Read on.
#1: Right in front of the bolt head, you can see a 10mm that locates a large wiring harness. Remove bolt:
That'll get you a little further, but not all of the way out. The X and the arrow to the left shows what you did in the previous step (to get your bearings). The arrows to the right are the #2 and #3 bolts that will need removed. Also marked where the battery tray was so you could see where the bolts are tucked. Might save time and your presets.
Upper arm removed:
You can see I'm supporting the link with string. Don't worry, I'm also supporting the bottom part of the hub with a stand. Just want to minimize stress to my lower ball joint.
Also got the upper ball joint adaptor in place. Was able to seat it with the bolt, nut, and washers I got for pressing the rear shock bushings in with. Also coated it with anti-seize beforehand and got the C clip in.
And that's where I'm stopping for the night. Had to rent a ball joint press, but I can't fit it under the fender. Ran back to parts store, and they only have a huge one for dump trucks, lol. No idea how these guys with Civics would get this thing under their fender with enough room to use an adapter. I really don't want to pop the bottom ball joint to make enough room for the assemble and tool to be able to use the upper press. Lol, guess I'm going to look at tools to see if I can find a compact enough press locally to save my lazy butt sometime... : )
Although the install video a few posts earlier says to support the vehicle in the loaded position, and the written instructions neglect to say. Light Racing had a issue with their bushings, as it sounds like their old spec front upper arm actually transmitted some torsional stress through the bushing that would make them fail. LR has fixed it now with their Spec Ride bushing which is a clever marketing name to show that they stand behind their product and have fixed the issues with the arm. These new bushings appear to tighten metal to metal like the OEM upper bolt and bushings do, except that they are urethane.
Just the simple instructions... These look to be better tha the initial instructions. I've read the earlier instructions were worthless.
Passenger arm at level ride height:
Passenger arm at full droop. There is spring contact.
Tip to removing (AND SAVING TO REUSE) the plastic OEM under fender plugs: don't. It them like the install video shows, get a few different sets of needle nose and access the back of them through the engine bay. This one is located right past the air cleaner box (guess no pic of it in, just out):
It may seem like a pain, but there are two different stops on these plugs. Just keep them pinched on the backside and wiggle them back and forth, pushing through. Here's the back side:
DRIVER'S SIDE:
Started on the drivers side. I removed the battery to make room for the upper control arm bolt to have room, but if you remove three bolts, you can move two electrical harnesses that are in the way and possibly save yourself yanking the battery. Would have tried it if I could have felt the other upper bolt... Read on.
#1: Right in front of the bolt head, you can see a 10mm that locates a large wiring harness. Remove bolt:
That'll get you a little further, but not all of the way out. The X and the arrow to the left shows what you did in the previous step (to get your bearings). The arrows to the right are the #2 and #3 bolts that will need removed. Also marked where the battery tray was so you could see where the bolts are tucked. Might save time and your presets.
Upper arm removed:
You can see I'm supporting the link with string. Don't worry, I'm also supporting the bottom part of the hub with a stand. Just want to minimize stress to my lower ball joint.
Also got the upper ball joint adaptor in place. Was able to seat it with the bolt, nut, and washers I got for pressing the rear shock bushings in with. Also coated it with anti-seize beforehand and got the C clip in.
And that's where I'm stopping for the night. Had to rent a ball joint press, but I can't fit it under the fender. Ran back to parts store, and they only have a huge one for dump trucks, lol. No idea how these guys with Civics would get this thing under their fender with enough room to use an adapter. I really don't want to pop the bottom ball joint to make enough room for the assemble and tool to be able to use the upper press. Lol, guess I'm going to look at tools to see if I can find a compact enough press locally to save my lazy butt sometime... : )
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The4kbeast
New member
Friday
Awesome to see F1 back in the US... Tuned in to Friday practice at work in Texas.
Awesome to see F1 back in the US... Tuned in to Friday practice at work in Texas.
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