>BUILD THREAD< The4kbeast's 3rd-Gen 2000 T4R SR5 (Highlander Edition) 4x4 Build

[The4kbeast]

Doing what i should have done when i first installed my lift... swapping my Tundra front coils in favor of the stock 4Runner W/P (white/pink) / W/Y (white/yellow) springs from a 2000 - 2002 4WD, mounted on the 5th perch. A guy with 99 fronts did this and got a 22.5-23" lift, so I'm HOPING I'll end up with at least a 21.5-22" lift. I'm afraid that I may end up with less. If I like the ride, I'll either get 99s and new rear shocks to complete my lift, or I'll install the 906s again and get new rear shocks...

Here's the collection I've amassed for the front... My old springs sagged at LEAST a half an inch (19.5"), but I think it may have been an inch comparing it to numbers that others had on similar vehicles (20.5):

Front TRD Tundra suspension settled, bottom mount on Tundra 5100
FR: 21.0", FL: 21.25"

New (+ old) suspension installed:

00-02 4Runner front springs on fifth perch, before settling:
FR: 23.0", FL: 23.0"
After a test drive:
FR: 22.5", FL: 22.5"

Horrible picture of final stance:

On a separate note, Tundra front 5100s are the same extended length as the Icon front coilovers... 20" from mounting point to mounting point. If Icon recommends upper control arms for a shock with this much down travel, then I think the same should apply to these Tundra 5100s.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I'm with you on the 19.5" sagged spring heights. This is where I was before some 99 talls for the back and 2000 TRD Tacoma springs/ Bilstein HD's on the front that evened me out at 21". I'll be installing 99 tall fronts with Tacoma 5100 adjustables (hopefully this weekend, keep putting it off lol). My thinking is a longer, softer spring to gain height but keep nice ride characteristics will be more pleasant than the firmer more robust Tundra TRD spring.

Most guys running an aftermarket full coilover such as Icon, king, SAW, etc that want a softer/ better flexing spring use a longer spring but keep the spring rate down near 500-550 instead of 600+, so my thinking is that I'll be happier going with the 99 talls. I plan on the 1.25" groove on the 5100's, and shooting for 22-22.5". Then match the rear with maybe the 890's. We'll see.

 

[The4kbeast]

I'm with you on the 19.5" sagged spring heights. This is where I was before some 99 talls for the back and 2000 TRD Tacoma springs/ Bilstein HD's on the front that evened me out at 21". I'll be installing 99 tall fronts with Tacoma 5100 adjustables (hopefully this weekend, keep putting it off lol). My thinking is a longer, softer spring to gain height but keep nice ride characteristics will be more pleasant than the firmer more robust Tundra TRD spring.

Most guys running an aftermarket full coilover such as Icon, king, SAW, etc that want a softer/ better flexing spring use a longer spring but keep the spring rate down near 500-550 instead of 600+, so my thinking is that I'll be happier going with the 99 talls. I plan on the 1.25" groove on the 5100's, and shooting for 22-22.5". Then match the rear with maybe the 890's. We'll see.

Sup Dezert,
I've been wondering about the TRD Tacoma fronts. Matched with the Taco front 5100, I think they would rock. What are your impressions of the setup you're ditching in favor of the 99 talls + 5100? IMO the setup I put together tonight makes the ride feel like that of a stock vehicle. Sure, it's a bit higher, but it feels great on my local test loop (my neighbors must think I'm nuts flying up and down the street hitting the double drainage dip down the road, lol). So far, I really like the Tundra front 5100 with the '02 stock springs I inherited, and I believe the Taco fronts with the longer coil will be a really good setup for those without a weighted front bumper, etc. seems like a well thought out setup.

I'm guessing that running the 1.25" perch (2nd up from bottom on Taco 5100) should net you a ~3.25" lift from our 19.5" starting point (vs ~22.75")... of course, that depends if you're buying new springs or if you found some used.

Let me know how it works out... and remember, suck it up and get it done this weekend so you can start enjoying your awesome new setup sooner. Just beware that nothing is going to be open next week, so plan your alignment ASAP (I've trashed my tires by constantly making changes until I found something I could live with).

 

[SCRunner12]

Just to be clear, you swapped your Tundra coils for 00-02 4runner coils and bumped the front up to the 5th perch? Didn't like the ride of the Tundra's?

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Sup Dezert,
I've been wondering about the TRD Tacoma fronts. Matched with the Taco front 5100, I think they would rock. What are your impressions of the setup you're ditching in favor of the 99 talls + 5100? IMO the setup I put together tonight makes the ride feel like that of a stock vehicle. Sure, it's a bit higher, but it feels great on my local test loop (my neighbors must think I'm nuts flying up and down the street hitting the double drainage dip down the road, lol). So far, I really like the Tundra front 5100 with the '02 stock springs I inherited, and I believe the Taco fronts with the longer coil will be a really good setup for those without a weighted front bumper, etc. seems like a well thought out setup.

I'm guessing that running the 1.25" perch (2nd up from bottom on Taco 5100) should net you a ~3.25" lift from our 19.5" starting point (vs ~22.75")... of course, that depends if you're buying new springs or if you found some used.

I actually don't know if the Taco TRD springs are longer or anything, could just be a longer shock from the Bilstein HD's that gave me the 1.5" lift. They were stockers off a 2000 TRD tacoma that I just threw on trying to replace my trashed stock 200k+ shocks/springs, and I saw a 1.5" lift out of it. I have toyed with the idea of using the Taco TRD springs with the 5100's, but figure the 99 talls will be the safer bet for what I'm looking for since they are a linear spring rate vs the TRD progressive spring rate. I'd hate to try it out and want to switch to the 99 talls after all and have to go through the whole disassembly process and I'm just not motivated enough to try it out. I have used 99 talls, so we'll see what I end up with on the 1.25" notch (if I can even compress the springs enough to get it there).

Let me know how it works out... and remember, suck it up and get it done this weekend so you can start enjoying your awesome new setup sooner. Just beware that nothing is going to be open next week, so plan your alignment ASAP (I've trashed my tires by constantly making changes until I found something I could live with).

I have the Firestone lifetime alignment, so that's no issue for my new-ish BFG A/t's. :banana:

Just gotta make sure I don't do it without checking into holiday hours.




Just a side note:

I had a '01 4dr TRD Tacoma a few years ago and ran the stock springs with 5100 adjustables, and it was just a bit stiff, but I also had it on the 2.5" notch. So it's hard to figure out if those springs would work out good. All I can say is that the Taco TRD springs with the HD's are too stiff for me and tiny bumps in the road are no fun but big dips are smooth (or should I say were smooth until my shocks blew out recently so I'm riding on springs mostly, like an old Cadillac bouncing after a dip). Gotta get on it!

 

[The4kbeast]

Front TRD Tundra suspension settled, bottom mount on Tundra 5100
FR: 21.0", FL: 21.25"

00-02 4Runner front springs on fifth perch, before settling:
FR: 23.0", FL: 23.0"
After a test drive:
FR: 22.5", FL: 22.5"

Just to be clear, you swapped your Tundra coils for 00-02 4runner coils and bumped the front up to the 5th perch? Didn't like the ride of the Tundra's?

Sure did. The TRD Tundras were bought new, so they took a month to sag and settle in. I couldn't have set them to the second perch up even if I wanted to when I first got them. That was the scariest spring I've ever had in a spring compressor! The small bump compliance just felt off though. So I figured I'd run the OEM springs for a bit until I saw the need for an increase in spring rate.

I actually don't know if the Taco TRD springs are longer or anything, could just be a longer shock from the Bilstein HD's that gave me the 1.5" lift. They were stockers off a 2000 TRD tacoma that I just threw on trying to replace my trashed stock 200k+ shocks/springs, and I saw a 1.5" lift out of it. I have toyed with the idea of using the Taco TRD springs with the 5100's, but figure the 99 talls will be the safer bet for what I'm looking for since they are a linear spring rate vs the TRD progressive spring rate. I'd hate to try it out and want to switch to the 99 talls after all and have to go through the whole disassembly process and I'm just not motivated enough to try it out. I have used 99 talls, so we'll see what I end up with on the 1.25" notch (if I can even compress the springs enough to get it there).

I have the Firestone lifetime alignment, so that's no issue for my new-ish BFG A/t's. :banana:

Just gotta make sure I don't do it without checking into holiday hours.

You should be able to get a used 99 on the second perch. One guy on here managed to get it squeezed on the 5th perch of a Tundra strut. Have heard horrible things about Firestone lifetime alignments. What are your experiences?

Just a side note:
I had a '01 4dr TRD Tacoma a few years ago and ran the stock springs with 5100 adjustables, and it was just a bit stiff, but I also had it on the 2.5" notch. So it's hard to figure out if those springs would work out good. All I can say is that the Taco TRD springs with the HD's are too stiff for me and tiny bumps in the road are no fun but big dips are smooth (or should I say were smooth until my shocks blew out recently so I'm riding on springs mostly, like an old Cadillac bouncing after a dip). Gotta get on it!

From the impressions I've heard, OEM TRD Bilsteins run stiff. Could be the rate, too since it was a double cab. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Dezert4Runner]

You should be able to get a used 99 on the second perch. One guy on here managed to get it squeezed on the 5th perch of a Tundra strut. Have heard horrible things about Firestone lifetime alignments. What are your experiences?

The lead guy doing alignments at the one closest to me told me other Firestone's weren't very "modified" suspension friendly, but he claimed he could get great alignment numbers all day long and even said himself that he had a long travel truck and understands how to properly align lifted rigs. Can't complain so far with my experience.

 

[rickashay]

On a separate note, Tundra front 5100s are the same extended length as the Icon front coilovers... 20" from mounting point to mounting point. If Icon recommends upper control arms for a shock with this much down travel, then I think the same should apply to these Tundra 5100s.

Wow this is interesting.... Do you by any chance have the compressed lengths of the Icon Ext. vs. the Bilstein Tundra 5100's?

 

[The4kbeast]

Wow this is interesting.... Do you by any chance have the compressed lengths of the Icon Ext. vs. the Bilstein Tundra 5100's?

Nope. I was going to measure them, but it would have required disassembly and taking the spring off. We were short on time during the install anyway, so I didn't suggest doing it. I should talk to Icon and see if they would share the shock stroke. It'd be awesome to run the numbers and figure out how much travel they are using. But ultimately, it is the quality and different design of dampening, not the length of travel, that sets them apart from the competition.

From talking to dhalsey, it sounds like he has already bottomed them out, or at least has engaged the stock front bump stops. That's the second person I've heard say that they've bottom the fronts out first.

 

[dhalsey]

From talking to dhalsey, it sounds like he has already bottomed them out, or at least has engaged the stock front bump stops. That's the second person I've heard say that they've bottom the fronts out first.

To be fair I was being pretty hard on them. I went out in the dirt with bad intentions. The rear shocks already have internal bump stops. I think I'm going to be putting Jounce stops on sooner than I think.

 

[rickashay]

Nope. I was going to measure them, but it would have required disassembly and taking the spring off. We were short on time during the install anyway, so I didn't suggest doing it. I should talk to Icon and see if they would share the shock stroke. It'd be awesome to run the numbers and figure out how much travel they are using. But ultimately, it is the quality and different design of dampening, not the length of travel, that sets them apart from the competition.

Oh absolutely, I'm not debating the quality of them at all. They would assume they are worth every penny. I'm just curious for the sake of having a "mid-travel" setup what kind of front travel numbers you get. Like how much more wheel travel do you get with a standard ICON coilover vs. the Icon extended coilovers with aftermarket UCA's? Is it worth it?

 

[The4kbeast]

Oh absolutely, I'm not debating the quality of them at all. They would assume they are worth every penny. I'm just curious for the sake of having a "mid-travel" setup what kind of front travel numbers you get. Like how much more wheel travel do you get with a standard ICON coilover vs. the Icon extended coilovers with aftermarket UCA's? Is it worth it?

I'm curious about travel numbers, too. Need to dig up the old article on Donahue Racing... I'd assume the shock design was carried over. From what I've read on the net, the only difference between the regular and the extended is a half inch. So I'd assume the regular version is 19.5" fully extended. That additional 0.5" of down travel at the shock gets you .875" of extended downward wheel travel. The extra travel might make it worth it for some.

But 99.9% of us are here to lift, or at least.. and you're going for at least a 2" lift (1" for 99s), then your geometry is going to extend beyond what your OEM range of adjustment can account for. Even with a cheaper lift, I'd say upper arms are a requirement... In short, I'd say go with the extended travel unless your intent is to copy a 99 lift with 99 rear springs and no upper control arms.

BTW, Icon recommends matching their kit with 99 rear springs. Even if it's a 99 with a spacer to match the front. Dhalsey used 890s, and the extra spring rate is evident but not overpowering. And the dampening/ride quality is awesome, even with the front sway bar disconnected. Can't wait to see the small change no rear sway bar makes.

Hey Dhalsey - beep beep

 

[The4kbeast]

Alignment & Tires

Finally got an alignment and picked up some new tires. TreadWright originally quoted me at one to two weeks for my production run, then additional time for shipping. I called after two and a half weeks and was seventh in line for a run of tires. Worse yet, they hadn't located the BFG carcasses yet, and were trying to tell me BFG doesn't offer a side wall in black. I told them I just couldn't wait and would have to cancel my order. They offered a matching set to me that didn't have a BFG sidewall, and I declined. I'd of kept the order if I wasn't in a hurry, but they were already running long and they were slammed with tire buying season.

Alignment specs (thanks Light Racing, now at a basic + 2* setting):

Hankook DynaPro AT'M RF10 image:

Headed home with 5 of them, I settled on the LT265/75R16 sizing, black sw out:

I say "settled" because I was tempted to run a 33" tire, but decided to play it safe and run a 32" tire so I didn't have to mess with clearance. Unfortunately, I forgot to take the 8" wide wheel into consideration, so their 31.7" measurement on a 7.5" wheel quickly turns to a solid 31" tire.
Hankook RF10 Size And Specification Chart Photo 9

Got 5, including spare:

Not bad looking side lugs. Have seen one reported failure just behind them, so I will have to watch my aired down pressures.

 

[The4kbeast]

Want to pull the trigger on projectors today. Only thing left to decide are athletics. I've narrowed my selection to two shrouds, either the E55-R or the Apollo 2.0. Both have a flat edge on bottom to match the housing, but there are small differences that set the two apart in my eyes.

E55-R: Simplest of the simple (in a good way), the E55-R has a raised perimeter bevel that will make the dainty 2.5" lens I'm using look bigger. Plus, because of the shallow depth, I'll be able to run a reverse halo that will reflect off the stock headlight reflector and act as a DRL. The shallow depth means it also may not look as OEM as other covers.
Link: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=139

SQ.MD did an install of this shroud (w/ a different, FX-R projector) and had issues with errant light reflecting back on the backing... with a rear-facing halo, I believe this issue would "wash out" and not be an issue:
Link: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-write-up-experienced-sq-md-2.html#post744725

Apollo 2.0: It has a small raised bevel to make the 2.5" lens look bigger. The new design is halo friendly, but I worry a forward facing halo will look dated fast (even if it is divided into for sections). It has better depth coverage, which may entail trimming the outer left and right edges of the shroud. These look great painted, but I think I've decided to avoid painting the housing to see how it logs with just the shroud.
Link: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=25797

 

[BrianSD_42]

I'm looking at the Apollo 2 shrouds with the 100mm amber halos ($60 I think) which TRS says are a match.

I am also waiting until New Years in hopes of a 20% off sale. On Black Friday they did 25% but I missed it.

 

[SCRunner12]

What projectors and bulbs are you getting? I just saw this on The Retrofit Source Facebook page. They might be having a holiday sale if you want to wait. https://www.facebook.com/TheRetrofitSource?ref=ts&fref=ts

 

[BrianSD_42]

Good info. I will check daily.

I would get the Phillips bulbs (industry standard) and FX-R 3" projectors.

 

[The4kbeast]

What projectors and bulbs are you getting? I just saw this on The Retrofit Source Facebook page. They might be having a holiday sale if you want to wait. https://www.facebook.com/TheRetrofitSource?ref=ts&fref=ts

I saw that earlier today and commented a few times, thanks for the heads up. I'm going to heed your advice and do the 35W/4300k, but I'm going to run the easy kit.

Ballasts: 35 w/ longer cord
Bulbs: 35W D2S
Halos: Yes, white as DRLs
Projectors: D2S Minis w/ 2.5" projector, LHD
Re-sealing Glue: Sure, why not
Shrouds: Probably the Apollo 2.0? Still undecided
Wire Harness: H4

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I just got a bonus from work so I'm just waiting for another TRS holiday sale so I can save some money. Maybe we can get another Tacoma World group buy going?

 

[SCRunner12]

I saw that earlier today and commented a few times, thanks for the heads up. I'm going to heed your advice and do the 35W/4300k, but I'm going to run the easy kit.

Ballasts: 35 w/ longer cord
Bulbs: 35W D2S
Halos: Yes, white as DRLs
Projectors: D2S Minis w/ 2.5" projector, LHD
Re-sealing Glue: Sure, why not
Shrouds: Probably the Apollo 2.0? Still undecided
Wire Harness: H4

I really recommend the 85122's for your bulbs if you're not going big with the SVS or CBI's. The base Morimoto bulbs are okay, but you will be wanting more from them instantly. Might as well spend the extra money now and enjoy them for a long time. Ask me how I know....

Other than that it looks like a solid set up. It should be fine for most people and I've gotten used to my H1 set up. As everyone says, take your time and it will come out great.

I just got a bonus from work so I'm just waiting for another TRS holiday sale so I can save some money. Maybe we can get another Tacoma World group buy going?

Nice, what are you looking to do? I doubt TW will have another GB for a little while. We could do one here on T4R. You should start a feeler thread and often times people from other forums will join in to get the discount.