Code P2443

CutthroatSlam

Senior Member
Since changing the spark plugs last week, we are periodically getting Code P2443 OBD-II: Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve (AISSV) Stuck Closed. I did have to redo a butt splice to a previous repair to the plug that goes onto the sensor next to the AISSV on the drivers side, but I’ve checked that several time and it is solidly connected as are the other 2 wires to that plug. When I pulled the AISSV to replace the spark plugs, I unplugged the harness and laid it up ontop of the intake.

This code only appears infrequently on start up. Per the description of its function, it pumps external air into the exhaust on cold starts. So I’ve checked wiring. Will check vacuum hose. Not sure how to check the rest.

P2443 OBD-II: Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed
Get diagnosis and repair information for trouble code P2443
OBD II Fault Code
OBD II P2443
OBD-II Code Powertrain Control Module (PCM) failure is defined as a Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed

The Secondary Air Injection System pumps outside fresh air into the Exhaust System during cold engine start up. This additional air helps burn up the highly rich exhaust emissions that are produced when the engine is warming up. The Secondary Air System typically has an Air Pump and some tubes or plumbing to route the air. The system also has a solenoid and Check Valve(s) to control the airflow. When the engine control module (PCM) detects a faulty with the Secondary Air Injection System, it will set code P2443.

Common Problems That Trigger the P2443 Code
Clogged or disconnected vacuum hose
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) failure
Secondary air pump control valve failure
Secondary air pump failure
Wiring issue
 
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1. Get the official 4Runner repair manual: TOYOTA 2016-2019 4Runner Repair Manual RM27F0U

2. Run the procedure on page 3163 of the repair manual: " Inspect secondary air injection system operation".

3. You will find a diagram of the secondary air injection system on page 3591 of the repair manual.

4. Did you change the secondary air valve as the code indicates? (The repair manual calls it the "Air switching valve for secondary air injection". )

There are several other diagnostic tests in the repair manual that address the secondary air injection system.
 
Butt splice on a spark plug wire-did I get this right? I would never do that. I suggest replacing the whole wire with a new one. A spliced wire might be arching due to the high voltage.
 
Butt splice on a spark plug wire-did I get this right? I would never do that. I suggest replacing the whole wire with a new one. A spliced wire might be arching due to the high voltage.

No you did not read that right. It is a sensor next to the air valve. They sell replacement plugs for it, designed to be spliced in. Wire pulled out of the OEM plug and there is no way to get the wire back in. Over 140K miles on the truck since that repair.
 
1. Get the official 4Runner repair manual: TOYOTA 2016-2019 4Runner Repair Manual RM27F0U

2. Run the procedure on page 3163 of the repair manual: " Inspect secondary air injection system operation".

3. You will find a diagram of the secondary air injection system on page 3591 of the repair manual.

4. Did you change the secondary air valve as the code indicates? (The repair manual calls it the "Air switching valve for secondary air injection". )

There are several other diagnostic tests in the repair manual that address the secondary air injection system.

Thank you for posting this. No on #4. We are currently driving from Montana to SoCal, laying over in Salt Lake City. I will do the repair manual tests when I get down to SoCal. Truck is running perfect and has not thrown a code, so it is definitely on cold start up and the temp was 50 F this am in Stevensville, but even then it is not consistent.
 
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1. Get the official 4Runner repair manual: TOYOTA 2016-2019 4Runner Repair Manual RM27F0U

2. Run the procedure on page 3163 of the repair manual: " Inspect secondary air injection system operation".

3. You will find a diagram of the secondary air injection system on page 3591 of the repair manual.

4. Did you change the secondary air valve as the code indicates? (The repair manual calls it the "Air switching valve for secondary air injection". )

There are several other diagnostic tests in the repair manual that address the secondary air injection system.

I could not figure out that post with the manual. There is no link to download the manual, only a 7Zip file to unzip the download.

Update: Finally got the repair manual downloaded and opened.
 
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1. Get the official 4Runner repair manual: TOYOTA 2016-2019 4Runner Repair Manual RM27F0U

2. Run the procedure on page 3163 of the repair manual: " Inspect secondary air injection system operation".

3. You will find a diagram of the secondary air injection system on page 3591 of the repair manual.

4. Did you change the secondary air valve as the code indicates? (The repair manual calls it the "Air switching valve for secondary air injection". )

There are several other diagnostic tests in the repair manual that address the secondary air injection system.

Have not replaced the secondary air valve. Trying to confirm that the following is the correct part:

2014 Toyota 4Runner Valve assembly. Vacuum switching, no. 1; vacuum switching, no. 2 - 2586036020 | Tustin Toyota, Tustin CA
 
Got the secondary air valve from Toyota. Replacing it takes less than 5 minutes. Had not seen the code for at least 2 days before replacing. No code after starting it. Let it sit for 30 minutes and the code is back.

Toyota Manual is based on having Tech Stream, which I assume is Toyota's computer diagnostic system. Sounds like this will end up being a dealer repair if I can't resolve this.
 
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Got the secondary air valve from Toyota. Replacing it takes less than 5 minutes. Had not seen the code for at least 2 days before replacing. No code after starting it. Let it sit for 30 minutes and the code is back.

Toyota Manual is based on having Tech Stream, which I assume is Toyota's computer diagnostic system. Sounds like this will end up being a dealer repair if I can't resolve this.

Please keep us informed!
 
Alright, long week of work writing up quarterly deliverables on the bank I cover at the Fed Reserve. With the light of day on the weekend, I revisited the Secondary Air Valve. First thing, I pulled it to inspect the male side prongs of the plug on the valve and none were bent. So the electrical checked out fine. Did some other checks on the vacuum hoses and noted a rattle inside the valve, so I disassembled it by removing the 4 torx screws holding it together. When I split it open a piece of spring steel fell out. I think I found the problem. Pics attached. Also pic of butt splice repaired harness for the sensor (not the spark plug) under the Secondary Air Valve. New valve has been ordered at Toyota dealer and will arrive Tuesday. This will take just minutes to install.
 

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Since replacement part is on order, decided to do a little further disassembly of the valve. The two philips head screws sheared off as they were mushroomed on the back side to prevent separation of that plate from the underlying grate. The entire plate/grate simply rests in a rubber gasket and in theory is replaceable. Honestly, probably could salvage this Denso made valve by purchasing a Valve by Dorman at 1/3 the cost and swapping in the plate/grate. I will be hanging onto this Denso made valve for that purpose.

Anyway, got the plate separated from the underlying grate and you can see where the spring steel flap sheared off from.
 

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Since replacement part is on order, decided to do a little further disassembly of the valve. The two philips head screws sheared off as they were mushroomed on the back side to prevent separation of that plate from the underlying grate. The entire plate/grate simply rests in a rubber gasket and in theory is replaceable. Honestly, probably could salvage this Denso made valve by purchasing a Valve by Dorman at 1/3 the cost and swapping in the plate/grate. I will be hanging onto this Denso made valve for that purpose.

Anyway, got the plate separated from the underlying grate and you can see where the spring steel flap sheared off from.

Nice investigation!
Could you see the back side of the screws before the heads sheared off or just didn’t notice ?

Valve isn’t cheap!
 
No could not see the back side of the screws….until the whole thing dumped out of the valve. Doh!

I could grab the back side ends of the screws with vice grips and remove them. But since the whole plate/grate unit just drops out, it would be pretty simple to swap in a new unit.

I definitely can find the valve cheaper for like $200 from On-line Toyota OEM Parts suppliers. But it’s my wife’s truck, so repairing sooner is better. I was tired of her coming to grab me to erase the code with the code reader.
 
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No could not see the back side of the screws….until the whole thing dumped out of the valve. Doh!

I could grab the back side ends of the screws with vice grips and remove them. But since the whole plate/grate unit just drops out, it would be pretty simple to swap in a new unit.

I definitely can find the valve cheaper for like $200 from On-line Toyota OEM Parts suppliers. But it’s my wife’s truck, so repairing sooner is better. I was tired of her coming to grab me to erase the code with the code reader.

Copy that, never saw one, didn’t know how it was made….. thought maybe valves and rubberized plate was removable and them being sandwiched between metal parts.
 
To wrap this up, finally got Toyota's pricey Air Valve. It comes with the the 3 legged base that attaches to the engine, when you really just need the valve. They said it was a demand pull order item and required providing the VIN # for the vehicle before they would ship the part to the dealer. In the interim I bought a used valve on ebay for $80 shipped and that arrived earlier than expected, like 2 hours after I had installed the pricey new one from Toyota. So now I have a spare.

Drove the vehicle around at lunch stopping at multiple stores and filled it up with gas. No codes so far. Pretty confident this was the fix as anything electrical throws a code immediately. The mechanical fail was obviously a delayed, or infrequent code trigger.

So for the Toyota Tech Repair manual lengthy list of test procedure for DTC P2443, I would add shake the part and listen for any rattles :-)
 
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To wrap this up, finally got Toyota's pricey Air Valve. It comes with the the 3 legged base that attaches to the engine, when you really just need the valve. They said it was a demand pull order item and required providing the VIN # for the vehicle before they would ship the part to the dealer. In the interim I bought a used valve on ebay for $80 shipped and that arrived earlier than expected, like 2 hours after I had installed the pricey new one from Toyota. So now I have a spare.

Drove the vehicle around at lunch stopping at multiple stores and filled it up with gas. No codes so far. Pretty confident this was the fix as anything electrical throws a code immediately. The mechanical fail was obviously a delayed, or infrequent code trigger.

So for the Toyota Tech Repair manual lengthy list of test procedure for DTC P2443, I would add shake the part and listen for any rattles :-)


Just thought about it, would that be covered under the emissions warranty ( is that the correct terminology)?
 
Just thought about it, would that be covered under the emissions warranty ( is that the correct terminology)?

I think the emissions warranty is for 10 years or 150K miles. We're at 265K miles, so we've blown past that. Plus I take pride in being self-sufficient, so F the dealer.

Well we were still having intermittent P2443 codes after replacing the valve. Note that the manual says to check the wiring, I went back to do that. Pulled the plug from this Secondary Air Injection Valve and this time the outer wire on the right side (plug facing you) simply pulled out of the back of plug, similar to what happened on the sensor plug underneath this valve the last time I changed spark plugs. The wires are simply pressed into the back of the plug and it is often not a solid connection. Once a wire pulls out, they are near impossible to get back into the plug. This time I was able to jam the wire back into the plug, but there is no guarantee it will stay there. I cleared the code and so far it has not returned.

Last time I found a replacement plug for the sensor. I had to cut off the old plug and butt splice the new plug into the engine harness. I know that I posted about it here, so I need to find that post and see if it will lead me to a source for this connector plug to the Secondary Air Injection Valve.

At the outset I joked about Gracie and her small hands being ideal for the spark plug replacement job.....and I was not kidding.

Found the thread:

Cam Position Sensor Plug

In my unsuccessful search (so far) for a repair plug, I found this video showing how to repair an existing plug:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3HV4Ty9U5g&feature=youtu.be

And here's a Toyota-Tech on how to do it:

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

The question I have is where do I get the pins and tools to do this ^^^?

Here's a better video showing pin replacement on a Lexus terminal:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n43UIt06HQ4&feature=youtu.be

My issue is the wire end pulling out of the back of the pin, due to poor crimping.

Found a source for a replacement connector, but they are pricey:

Air Switching Valve Assembly
 
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I think the emissions warranty is for 10 years or 150K miles. We're at 265K miles, so we've blown past that. Plus I take pride in being self-sufficient, so F the dealer.

Well we were still having intermittent P2443 codes after replacing the valve. Note that the manual says to check the wiring, I went back to do that. Pulled the plug from this Secondary Air Injection Valve and this time the outer wire on the right side (plug facing you) simply pulled out of the back of plug, similar to what happened on the sensor plug underneath this valve the last time I changed spark plugs. The wires are simply pressed into the back of the plug and it is often not a solid connection. Once a wire pulls out, they are near impossible to get back into the plug. This time I was able to jam the wire back into the plug, but there is no guarantee it will stay there. I cleared the code and so far it has not returned.

Last time I found a replacement plug for the sensor. I had to cut off the old plug and butt splice the new plug into the engine harness. I know that I posted about it here, so I need to find that post and see if it will lead me to a source for this connector plug to the Secondary Air Injection Valve.

At the outset I joked about Gracie and her small hands being ideal for the spark plug replacement job.....and I was not kidding.

Found the thread:

Cam Position Sensor Plug

In my unsuccessful search (so far) for a repair plug, I found this video showing how to repair an existing plug:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3HV4Ty9U5g&feature=youtu.be

And here's a Toyota-Tech on how to do it:

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

The question I have is where do I get the pins and tools to do this ^^^?

Here's a better video showing pin replacement on a Lexus terminal:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n43UIt06HQ4&feature=youtu.be

My issue is the wire end pulling out of the back of the pin, due to poor crimping.

Found a source for a replacement connector, but they are pricey:

Air Switching Valve Assembly

Hey Sam,

Take a look here and see if you can find your connector, pins and tool!

http://www.cycleterminal.com/ts-025-sealed-series.html
 

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