first: :bravo:
so, i take it you still turn on the fogs with the stalk, but then hit the Slee switch to go fogs-only?
i'd need to ask about a million follow-up questions to make heads or tails of your wiring here, but
don't have time at the moment. i will bug you later, though!
again: :bravo:
ps: is that output as green in real-life as it is in your pics? they should really offer a warm/selective
yellow LED option. sorry, :tape2:
Yes, you still have to turn the stalk to the Headlight position to get Fogs...and then yes, you activate
the Slee Switch which in turn energizes the relay. When the relay is energized the "Normally Closed"
contact that is in series with the Ground return path of the Low Beams, opens up...thus turning the Low Beams off.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, it occurred to me that you could get the "trigger" voltage from the "Hot"
(Positive) side of the intermediate Wiring Adapter between the Factory Wiring Harness and the Low Beams.
Since I already had the Painless Fuse panel, I opted to use the "Ignition Controlled" side of it so when key is shutoff,
the "Cutout Relay" is de-energized. I guess you could always use the "double-push" of the key fob to turn the Low
Beams off too. That would also de-energize the relay.
As [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] experienced....when you use relays, the dash indicators still think that
things are still on. Just ignore that. I'm not about to tear into my Gauge Panel to fix it.
Is your brain hurting right now? I know [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] understands this, cuz he is
"definitely" an excellent modder..."definitely".
The pics are not very color compliant....iPhone. They actually look yellow on the road.

eace: