Direct Replacement LED Fog Light Assemblies for 2014 & Other 5th Gens

that is how i wired mine, i did both sides the same and the driver originally worked until i did passenger one now neither work, but stock ones work

I would check to see if the LED lights still work.

Wire a 12V source to the LED lights and see if they light up.
 
I would check to see if the LED lights still work.

Wire a 12V source to the LED lights and see if they light up.

ok got it... seems i didnt connect the positive pigtail in all the way on drivers side that is why it worked once and then must have moved a little bit when i ziptied the line up, then on passenger side, same thing didnt have both the connectors in all the way and while plugging in i popped them out a little so they could not make a connection :smash:

both are running, i didnt aim as they both looked proportionate to the headlight, hopefully turn out ok at night, looks like the 2014 TE doesnt have the extra cover to make an adjustment from underneath but there is a little gap next to skid plate that might work
 
ok got it... seems i didnt connect the positive pigtail in all the way on drivers side that is why it worked once and then must have moved a little bit when i ziptied the line up, then on passenger side, same thing didnt have both the connectors in all the way and while plugging in i popped them out a little so they could not make a connection :smash:

both are running, i didnt aim as they both looked proportionate to the headlight, hopefully turn out ok at night, looks like the 2014 TE doesnt have the extra cover to make an adjustment from underneath but there is a little gap next to skid plate that might work



You can adjust the drivers side light just by reaching up with a screwdriver.

The passenger side is easier done, if you remove the 2 bottom bolts securing the passenger wheel liner, peel the liner back a little, then a screwdriver and your forearm will be able to reach the adjusting screw.

When I installed my LED fogs, projected illumination was at level with the headlight level of illumination. That's a bit high, the illumination for the fogs should be below the headlight. With the level below the headlight, you get better illumination of the area, where the headlight illumination kinda crates a dead spot.

It's easier to adjust the fogs, if the headlights are off. I was able to do this by removing the fuse from the positive feed of the harness (assuming you are using the harness from TRS).
 
Ordered these about a week ago....should be getting them by next Monday.
Thanks so much to the OP for the install tips.
Also decided to order the yellow film directly from Lamin-x.

I'll be posting my solution to the dreaded "how can I run my Fogs without the Headlights being on"...it's a very clean wiring mod....no cutting into factory wiring.
 
Ordered these about a week ago....should be getting them by next Monday.
Thanks so much to the OP for the install tips.
Also decided to order the yellow film directly from Lamin-x.

I'll be posting my solution to the dreaded "how can I run my Fogs without the Headlights being on"...it's a very clean wiring mod....no cutting into factory wiring.

I would love to see this. Post with Pics!
 
Here is my Wiring Diagram for running fogs without the headlights.
Note that it involves reverse logic...you have to turn "on" the relay which in turn, turns 'off" the headlights.

View attachment 4Runner 2012_Wiring Mods.pdf

Here is where I got the Wiring Adapters....H11 to H9
INNOVATIVEWIRING.COM
You just unplug the factory harness from headlight, and insert the harness in place.
This allows splicing of the wiring without cutting into the factory harness.
 

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Here is my Wiring Diagram for running fogs without the headlights.
Note that it involves reverse logic...you have to turn "on" the relay which in turn, turns 'off" the headlights.

View attachment 128139

Here is where I got the Wiring Adapters....H11 to H9
INNOVATIVEWIRING.COM
You just unplug the factory harness from headlight, and insert the harness in place.
This allows splicing of the wiring without cutting into the factory harness.
sounds intriguing. so ok, i'll ask... could you give us more? a write up?

you did a really nice job with this write up http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin.../129862-improving-stereo-sound-5th-gen-2.html

guys would probably appreciate something similar and an alternative fogs-only option.

just my 2¢
 
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sounds intriguing. so ok, i'll ask... could you give us more? a write up?

you did a really nice job with this write up http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin.../129862-improving-stereo-sound-5th-gen-2.html

guys would probably appreciate something similar and an alternative fogs-only option.

just my 2¢

Appreciate the comp on my other write-up.
I am still collecting all the pieces at the moment. Waiting on the Fog Lights, Relay, and Switch. Have the Wiring Adapters and installed without cutting anything at the moment. Got the blank in the Upper Dash removed and have the "trigger" wire from the Painless FuseBox routed to there.

I promise I'll take step-by-step pics along the way.

I hope you were able to understand my Wiring Diagram. After some thought it occurred to me that it would be possible to actually use the "hot side" of the Headlight circuit to "trigger" the relay via the added switch, since you need to put your "wand" switch in the "headlight" position to turn on the Fogs anyway. I just chose to use my Painless circuit since it was already there in the dash, plus it is controlled by the Ignition.
 
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Just got this in a email and thought I would post for those sitting on the fence....so to speak!
 

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Fogs On Without Low Beams

OK, guys & gals...here are the details.
1st the Wiring Diagram:
4Runner_Low Beam Cutout Wiring Mods.jpg

Now the wiring:
Digging out the trigger wire from Power Source:
LB CO_01.jpg

Running Interrupt Wires through the firewall:
LB CO_04.jpg

Relay Installed and wires ready for switch:
LB CO_05.jpg

Cutting wiring adapter on Drivers side:
LB CO_06.jpg

Driver side splicing:
LB CO_07.jpg

Driver side harness complete:
LB CO_08.jpg

More pics to follow:
 

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More Pics

Pass side splicing:
LB CO_09.jpg

Pass side harness complete:
LB CO_10.jpg

Dash wiring ready for switch:
LB CO_13.jpg

Dash panel ready for install:
LB CO_14.jpg

Slee Offroad switch installed:
LB CO_15.jpg

LED Fogs yellow film application:
LED FOG_01.jpg

Later that night, Fogs & Low Beams:
LED FOG_04.jpg

Now, switch activated and Fogs only:
LED FOG_05.jpg
 

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Bumping this for [MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION] :roll:
first: :bravo:

so, i take it you still turn on the fogs with the stalk, but then hit the Slee switch to go fogs-only?

i'd need to ask about a million follow-up questions to make heads or tails of your wiring here, but don't have time at the moment. i will bug you later, though!

again: :bravo:

ps: is that output as green in real-life as it is in your pics? they should really offer a warm/selective yellow LED option. sorry, :tape2:
 
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first: :bravo:

so, i take it you still turn on the fogs with the stalk, but then hit the Slee switch to go fogs-only?

i'd need to ask about a million follow-up questions to make heads or tails of your wiring here, but
don't have time at the moment. i will bug you later, though!

again: :bravo:

ps: is that output as green in real-life as it is in your pics? they should really offer a warm/selective
yellow LED option. sorry, :tape2:

Yes, you still have to turn the stalk to the Headlight position to get Fogs...and then yes, you activate
the Slee Switch which in turn energizes the relay. When the relay is energized the "Normally Closed"
contact that is in series with the Ground return path of the Low Beams, opens up...thus turning the Low Beams off.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, it occurred to me that you could get the "trigger" voltage from the "Hot"
(Positive) side of the intermediate Wiring Adapter between the Factory Wiring Harness and the Low Beams.
Since I already had the Painless Fuse panel, I opted to use the "Ignition Controlled" side of it so when key is shutoff,
the "Cutout Relay" is de-energized. I guess you could always use the "double-push" of the key fob to turn the Low
Beams off too. That would also de-energize the relay.

As [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] experienced....when you use relays, the dash indicators still think that
things are still on. Just ignore that. I'm not about to tear into my Gauge Panel to fix it.

Is your brain hurting right now? I know [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] understands this, cuz he is
"definitely" an excellent modder..."definitely".

The pics are not very color compliant....iPhone. They actually look yellow on the road.
:peace:
 
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Anybody want to get rid of their OEM fog lights, hopefully I can save a set from the the garbage? I had my passenger side light get smacked by something on the freeway and now its literally hanging out. Would cover shipping cost and beer money if anybody is willing?
 
Anybody want to get rid of their OEM fog lights, hopefully I can save a set from the the garbage? I had my passenger side light get smacked by something on the freeway and now its literally hanging out. Would cover shipping cost and beer money if anybody is willing?

I just ordered a pair for my 2011 TE...wont get it until next week then probably install the week after that. If you can wait that long, you can have mine as long as I don't screw anything up on the install.
 
Any chance someone has their old original Al Toyota fog lamp assembly? I broke the nylon adjusting bolt. Looks like the square captive nut was damaged and the threads binded and while unscrewing it snapped.

I have PayPal and Google Wallet. I can also send you an echeck as well. Name your price. I tried to buy it from Toyota. Looks like the whole fog lamp housing comes with the bracket. Parts guy says it doesn't explode beyond the fog light assembly.

Please pm me or email me at jasonwcheng 'at' gmail.com
 
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