Dirtco's 1999 4Runner Build

[Dirtco]

And I found some deeper snow!

 

[Volcom]

I have some questions about this when you have the time:

First, why not truss underneath? Do the axle housings not bend upward?

Ground clearance. Yes they bend upward but the big rocks he drives over are under the housing. Even having something hang down an inch or two wouldn't be good for the type of wheeling he does.

Second, I read about the warping issues - do you think that's exacerbated by the continuous bead? I realize you welded 2" and skipped around, letting it cool, but I wonder if the truss had been constructed of cut and bent plate with cutouts along the join (so not in continuous contact with the axle, welding-wise) if that might not have mitigated the drawing?

I suppose welding on a build plate that located the pumkin face and both bearing mounts would be the best approach, but I'm curious as to whether simply changing the truss design could help as well.

(I'm prepping an axle housing for my truck, and if these are prone to bending, I want to reinforce it if I can)

Toyota housings are paper thin. Any kind of heat on them warps them. DIRTCO took every precaution he could (minus burying the housing in a sand pit after welding the 2" beads). His truss and welding were very thought out, it's just the crappy thin stamped sheetmetal housings they put under our trucks. I've bent and cracked 2 rear housings and a front housing myself. They are very weak.

 

[OU4x4]

are the housings thin and crappy or is it the house sized boulders you guys are crawling over
haha

 

[Volcom]

are the housings thin and crappy or is it the house sized boulders you guys are crawling over
haha

Both!!

 

[BrandonF]

I like the way you've mounted the hilift. I am also not a fan of roof racks and prefer to keep all of my weight as low as possible. Although my 48" hilift currently lives diagonally across my trunk, along with a full length shovel which really decreases the usability of my storage space. I may look at mounting them directly to the roofrack rails somehow.

 

[JWaldz]

Toyota housings are paper thin. Any kind of heat on them warps them. DIRTCO took every precaution he could (minus burying the housing in a sand pit after welding the 2" beads). His truss and welding were very thought out, it's just the crappy thin stamped sheetmetal housings they put under our trucks. I've bent and cracked 2 rear housings and a front housing myself. They are very weak.

Couldn't agree more..

They are sort of resilient if you slightly tweak them, though. You can still get away with driving them without too much vibrations cus of the semi-float design. If you bend one pretty good though, you're SOL.

In Dirtco's situation, he has full float conversion which is MUCH TIGHTER tolerances. Even the slightest tweak in the housing can result in catastrophe.

For all the reasons above, is why I went with an custom axle housing lol.

 

[Sean K.]

I have some questions about this when you have the time:

First, why not truss underneath? Do the axle housings not bend upward?

Second, I read about the warping issues - do you think that's exacerbated by the continuous bead? I realize you welded 2" and skipped around, letting it cool, but I wonder if the truss had been constructed of cut and bent plate with cutouts along the join (so not in continuous contact with the axle, welding-wise) if that might not have mitigated the drawing?

I suppose welding on a build plate that located the pumkin face and both bearing mounts would be the best approach, but I'm curious as to whether simply changing the truss design could help as well.

(I'm prepping an axle housing for my truck, and if these are prone to bending, I want to reinforce it if I can)

To do it right....you need to preload the housing in a jig. How much is the harder question to answer, but the one I just did only needed 1/8" of preload in the opposite direction....AND....one other thing that makes a big difference is a design that ensures you weld 180º from each side....so in other words, if you have 3 1/8" tubes....you need a truss that fits on the top and bottom of the tubes 180º apart.

 

[jkeith.w]

Couldn't agree more..

They are sort of resilient if you slightly tweak them, though. You can still get away with driving them without too much vibrations cus of the semi-float design. If you bend one pretty good though, you're SOL.

In Dirtco's situation, he has full float conversion which is MUCH TIGHTER tolerances. Even the slightest tweak in the housing can result in catastrophe.

So where are they bending? near the wheel? mid-tube? inconsistent? - just wondering where the truss really needs to be.

 

[jkeith.w]

To do it right....you need to preload the housing in a jig. How much is the harder question to answer, but the one I just did only needed 1/8" of preload in the opposite direction....AND....one other thing that makes a big difference is a design that ensures you weld 180º from each side....so in other words, if you have 3 1/8" tubes....you need a truss that fits on the top and bottom of the tubes 180º apart.

OK, so preload, OR symmetrical (welding) trusses.

How did you determine that the one you just did needed 1/8" of preload?

 

[Sean K.]

OK, so preload, OR symmetrical (welding) trusses.

How did you determine that the one you just did needed 1/8" of preload?

Both. You need to preload AND use a symmetrical truss.

I researched online....and Ford 9" builders were preloading the housings 1/4". I followed that guideline since the housings are roughly similar in design and size....but apparently the Toyota housing is a little more robust in that when I took the "after" measurement, I was pulled forward just under 1/8"....therefore, about 1/8" of preload would have been sufficient....at least on a Tundra rear axle.

 

[jkeith.w]

Both. You need to preload AND use a symmetrical truss.

I researched online....and Ford 9" builders were preloading the housings 1/4". I followed that guideline since the housings are roughly similar in design and size....but apparently the Toyota housing is a little more robust in that when I took the "after" measurement, I was pulled forward just under 1/8"....therefore, about 1/8" of preload would have been sufficient....at least on a Tundra rear axle.

wait, which direction do you preload if you are welding on opposing sides?

 

[Sean K.]

wait, which direction do you preload if you are welding on opposing sides?

If welding the truss as a backbone....you preload the tubes forward.

 

[Dirtco]

I like the way you've mounted the hilift. I am also not a fan of roof racks and prefer to keep all of my weight as low as possible. Although my 48" hilift currently lives diagonally across my trunk, along with a full length shovel which really decreases the usability of my storage space. I may look at mounting them directly to the roofrack rails somehow.

Thanks, it shouldn't be too hard to come up with something. If you have the factory cross bars you could always install a couple bolts for the jack and some Quick Fist mounts for the shovel.

Here are some more details on the rack (sorry for the crappy pictures).

The crossbars are so low that I had to contour them to the roof.



The top is covered with expanded steel (used but free) for holding gear. The supports on both sides is round tubing so I can use tie downs wherever I want.





I also built a spot to carry my chainsaw, it has guides to keep the saw in place and tie downs for a ratchet strap.

 

[Dirtco]

After getting stranded last winter I bought one of these. I seriously thought about adding a second battery, but my truck is already too heavy and this is a whole lot cheaper (and lighter). This is also mobile, so if I have to hike out of a situation I have a way to charge my phone and a spare flashlight.

 

[BigBluePile]

Dang, I need one of them. Where did you pick that up from?

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[SnowLizard]

Dang, I need one of them. Where did you pick that up from?

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https://lmgtfy.com/?q=micro-start+XP-10

 

[BigBluePile]

Oh snap! I found one on Amazon. Thanks for that sweet link though!

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[Mr.Rick]

:bravo: That gusset on the corner is gold! I like it. Couldn't have a roof rack without a little Dirtco flare on it! I like the round bar idea up the sides tho, that was a good call. Everyone always builds them and then has to build in tie down points as almost an afterthought. Looks sharp man I love it!

 

[Dirtco]

Oh snap! I found one on Amazon. Thanks for that sweet link though!

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I bought mine off Amazon too, it was cheaper than going through their website.

 

[Dirtco]

It's kind of weird seeing the back of the 4Runner completely empty.

If anyone is interested in the roll bar and storage rack here is a link to the classified ad: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...ll-bar-storage-rack-silverthorne-co-$250.html