merlinrunner
Junior Member
The website is a bit ambiguous. For the climate control console swap out, the 6 12v T3's I need are in the second group from the top and the 2 6v T4's I need are in the third group from the top, correct?
DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)
- Thread starter darkie3495
- Start date
The website is a bit ambiguous. For the climate control console swap out, the 6 12v T3's I need are in the second group from the top and the 2 6v T4's I need are in the third group from the top, correct?
JonAlthoff
New member
After LED swap. Possible stepper motor bad?
Last week I replaced almost all of the amber LEDs and missed the 2 drive selection background. After I changed those LEDs out the temperature gauge is going crazy. I accidentally moved the gauge when installing or removing the needle. I've been trying to find a solution for a week and thought I would post a video.
I just drove it so the engine is warmed up.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lg591g1j8br0i18/2018-06-10 15.26.47.mov?dl=0
I'm considering trying this to see if it helps:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPvX190txvk
I am also considering a ScanGauge2. I believe that would tell me that the sensor is good.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jon
Last week I replaced almost all of the amber LEDs and missed the 2 drive selection background. After I changed those LEDs out the temperature gauge is going crazy. I accidentally moved the gauge when installing or removing the needle. I've been trying to find a solution for a week and thought I would post a video.
I just drove it so the engine is warmed up.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lg591g1j8br0i18/2018-06-10 15.26.47.mov?dl=0
I'm considering trying this to see if it helps:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPvX190txvk
I am also considering a ScanGauge2. I believe that would tell me that the sensor is good.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jon
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Weird symptom. My gauges are white with red needles. When I'm going over 60mph, the needle start to flicker. When going below 60mph, it lights up fine.
Apart from the obvious that I'd have to redo the LEDs, what might be causing this ?
[MENTION=30225]yosh2000[/MENTION]
Apart from the obvious that I'd have to redo the LEDs, what might be causing this ?
[MENTION=30225]yosh2000[/MENTION]
S p a r k y
New member
Seems like maybe it’s just sticking. Is the black background secured completely? Needles pushed down completely? If I have needle issues when I do a job, take needle off plug the cluster in and turn on to reset the post without needle. Hope that made sense.
That’s crazy, never heard of or seen that. I have no idea what it could be, start with led. Just start this recently?
One needle, or all of them? And the only time is over 60, nothing else going on? Honestly have no idea dude, doesn't make sense that needle position would have anything to do with the led output? Especially if it worked just fine before.
This was the cluster I redid after that punk jacked it, right?
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Yup.
It's a strange symptom, I know. I'll take it for a drive later today to verify, but yes, only the speedo needle goes bonkers. I'll try to post a video of it.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
This started this past weekend (the day of my post). As Yosh stated, makes no sense for it to start flickering at a certain point. The LEDs lay flat unless the back of the needle is somehow touching it at that speed? I'm speaking out of my ass b/c I had my cluster done a few times before I handed it off to Yosh (get it done correctly). To Yosh's credit, I'm pretty sure he only handled the white LEDs and didn't touch the red (needle) ones. Guy before him (Yosh) used cheap ass LEDs. I didn't care for that. Maybe that's the problem :redbrick:
S p a r k y
New member
I am wondering if it is how the needle was put back together. If it wasn't done properly the adhesive could have come loose. And you see that vibration at that speed, which looks like a flicker, maybe just the base of needle bouncing around. Yosh, do you recall how needle was sealed back up?
I don't, it was like 6 years ago that I fixed the cluster. I don't recall really anything on the cluster except that a needle was busted when I got it and had to glue it back together. Sent cookieroe pics because I didn't want him to think it was me! Ithought it was a smaller temp/fuel needle though, not the speedo.
riceandpho
Elite Member
are we talking about elimi guy name? something similar to that?
i think a connector might just be loose, just snug it up a little.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Yosh is right, it was the gas gauge alex messed up. The needle is dim, was always since that incident. Anyway, I guess the only was to fix that is to get another needle from another "Limited" needle.
Anyway, the speedo doesn't vibrate, the light flickers. Strange. I took her out last night but all was fine. Very frustrating. I'll update with any news or video.
riceandpho
Elite Member
might be a bad led solder job.
mjotrainbrain
New member
Obviously I haven't looked though all 107 pages, but I didn't find this info anywhere online when I searched it:
Cup holder light can be replaced with Sylvania 2721.
Cup holder light can be replaced with Sylvania 2721.
Cisco Kid
Member
If I remember correctly, on the Limited cluster there are three leds at the base of the speedo needle that light it up. One to the left, one right, and one top center. After watching your video, the needle doesn’t go completely dark but it does lead me to believe that something is going on with the led in the top center position above the needle. It could be a bad solder joint that is still making good enough contact to keep the other two lit. If it were a completely broken connection, the other two would probably be off as well as those three are most likely connected in series.
You mentioned in another post that the needle for the fuel gauge is dim. Were the needles modified from factory? They still look original to me. The only way a needle would be dim is if the base of the needle got scuffed up where the light enters it or the led was replaced with one that is dimmer than it needs to be.
Last edited:
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Yep, that is what I was thinking.
Speedo LEDs: Yep, I'm willing to bet money you are correct.
Last guy took a pic while doing the LEDs and send me this.
Regarding the Fuel gauge, the last guy somehow broke it and glued it back to together. When [MENTION=30225]yosh2000[/MENTION] redid the white LEDs, he took notice of it. Seemed to be ok, but I always saw the needle as dim. I'm thinking glue got everywhere and lessened and affected the translucent part of the needle. Urgh.
Perhaps this is a opportunity to get another cluster on fleabay (to install while my LEDs are repaired AND to have the spare cluster be a donor of that needle.) hmmmmmm
yosh: any thoughts?
Thanks to all the tips gained reading this entire thread (no small feat) I did my HVAC cluster plus some others on a rainy Saturday.
Couple minor things I learned to add here:
All my LED's were from Superbright. I emailed them before buying and despite them saying their blue Neo4 should work at 6V for the display, they did not. They did however look great w/ zero hotspots after I did the 12v mod.
My 12v mod is rather amish engineered at the moment because I didn't have an appropriately small wire size on hand, however it works, is completely dimmable, requires no cutting in to any factory wires, and all my bulbs work:
For the mod I simply used a micro screwdriver and just slightly pried up the positive wire on "Reset/Mode" bulb from the exposed base. I then slipped a tail wire to reach the nearest display bulb under and twisted it around a full turn. This is a real trick with such small wires. I used a pair of fishing hemostats. When I go back in to clean this up with small tail wire I will put a dab of epoxy over this to keep it in place better. If one were really skilled with a small tip soldering iron that would probably be even better.
I then pulled the positive wires for each of the display bulbs out of the Neo bases and used short jumper wires to connect to the + tail off the Mode bulb. All bulbs still installed normally. I was very careful to triple check all my polarities were correct before testing it for the first time since I presume bad things would happen to the board if you had a short.
I found it impossible to take a decent picture of the end result with my cell but here's the best I could do. In reality, the blue screen is very evenly lit
One thing I didn't like once done was that the "Reset/Mode", "Defrost" & "Recirc" buttons were all annoying bright when I had all of my lights dimmed down to what I find comfortable for night driving. I simply fixed this by taking them back out and coloring over the LED with a blue permanent Sharpie. In person they look much more blue than in the picture for some reason. I'll get some actual blue led's to try in those position next.
Thanks again to all who posted tips before! Made my process a much shorter road to get to where I wanted to.
Couple minor things I learned to add here:
All my LED's were from Superbright. I emailed them before buying and despite them saying their blue Neo4 should work at 6V for the display, they did not. They did however look great w/ zero hotspots after I did the 12v mod.
My 12v mod is rather amish engineered at the moment because I didn't have an appropriately small wire size on hand, however it works, is completely dimmable, requires no cutting in to any factory wires, and all my bulbs work:
For the mod I simply used a micro screwdriver and just slightly pried up the positive wire on "Reset/Mode" bulb from the exposed base. I then slipped a tail wire to reach the nearest display bulb under and twisted it around a full turn. This is a real trick with such small wires. I used a pair of fishing hemostats. When I go back in to clean this up with small tail wire I will put a dab of epoxy over this to keep it in place better. If one were really skilled with a small tip soldering iron that would probably be even better.
I then pulled the positive wires for each of the display bulbs out of the Neo bases and used short jumper wires to connect to the + tail off the Mode bulb. All bulbs still installed normally. I was very careful to triple check all my polarities were correct before testing it for the first time since I presume bad things would happen to the board if you had a short.
I found it impossible to take a decent picture of the end result with my cell but here's the best I could do. In reality, the blue screen is very evenly lit
One thing I didn't like once done was that the "Reset/Mode", "Defrost" & "Recirc" buttons were all annoying bright when I had all of my lights dimmed down to what I find comfortable for night driving. I simply fixed this by taking them back out and coloring over the LED with a blue permanent Sharpie. In person they look much more blue than in the picture for some reason. I'll get some actual blue led's to try in those position next.
Thanks again to all who posted tips before! Made my process a much shorter road to get to where I wanted to.
Attachments
S p a r k y
New member
#74 led bulb. Used foe cup holder and shifter! Send your cluster and hvac to me for a swap and I’ll send those back for free!
S p a r k y
New member
Nobody has used up the $75 off for Black Friday! If your on the fence this deal will be gone soon! PM me for details!
ryantalarico
New member
Simple question, I looked through this thread can’t seem to find anywhere anything on if this swap will allow the new led’s to be dimmed?
Some of the posts look beautiful....and oh so very bright....
Before I do this swap I just want to make sure that you can dim the new led’s in the cluster, night driving for myself is best with a VERY dim dash...
Many thanks in advance.
Some of the posts look beautiful....and oh so very bright....
Before I do this swap I just want to make sure that you can dim the new led’s in the cluster, night driving for myself is best with a VERY dim dash...
Many thanks in advance.
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