Hi Darkie3495, do you have more to the instructions. I notice it stopped at step 7 "Take pictures of the needle positions at rest." Do you have more steps to complete the cluster gauge with pictures? thanks appreciated.Here is my write up on how to change the color of your interior lights for the 4th Gen 4Runner.
**Disclaimer: This "how to" is for informational purposes only. I take no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle. If you do not have basic soldering skills, please do not attempt. Serious damage could occur.**
Tools needed to remove cluster/steering wheel controls/HVAC unit:
10mm Socket (used to take apart dash/disconnect negative battery)
Small flat head screwdriver (remove steering wheel panels and unscrew bulb holders)
medium Phillips screwdriver (remove steering wheel control)
T-30 Hex Driver (disconnect Air Bag from steering wheel)
Tools needed or suggested to complete LED swap:
I know the fork is ghetto but it works...
15 PLCC-2 Surface Mount SMT LEDs (2-RPM, 3-Speedometer, 3-odometer, 2-gear selector backlight, 1-Fuel, 1-temp, 3-steering wheel controls)
20-backlight only/16-indicators(1-rear window, 1*-4x4 switch, 1-Reset/Mode, 2-HVAC screen, 1-defrost, 1-recirculate, 1-fan speed, 1-A/C, 1-Fan location, 1-cup holder, 1-gear selector, 1-DAC, 1-window, 1-Air bag, 1-Passenger indicator, 1 or 2-115V, 1-RSCA off, 1-VSC, 1-Diff lock)
Useful links:
<a href="http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/">Remove lower dash, center console and HVAC unit</a>
<a href="http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225203">Detailed how-to to swap Steering wheel control LED's</a>. I won't go over this since slvrAZtaco's write-up is thorough.
<B>Cluster LED Swap</B>
1) disconnect battery using the 10mm socket
2) Remove lower driver side dash and let it hang (Step 3 - <a href="http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/">http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/)</a>
- While you have it disconnected, you can pull all the switches located on this panel
3) Grab the trim surrounding the gauge cluster near the bottom and pull towards you. Clips are the only thing holding it in place.
4) There are 3 screws/10mm bolts holding the gauge cluster and 2 bolts connecting the harnesses.
This is what's behind the cluster
5) Remove the clear lens and interior black trim. both pieces are held on by plastic tabs.
6) Remove white plastic backing
7) Take pictures of the needle positions at rest. It
DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)
- Thread starter darkie3495
- Start date
darkie3495
Moderator
Hey jerrysc99. looks like when they moved the site over to the new servers, it cut the DIY. i know they are working on it so it might populate eventually. if there is something specific i can answer i'll do my best. i still have most of the pics.
Let me know,
Kevin
Thanks for the quick reply Darkie3495. Can you tell me where you got the LED's and model/part numbers? By the way your Cluster gauge looks fantastic! I hope the remaining of DIY gets populated soon. Thanks again.
darkie3495
Moderator
Hey Darkie3495, the site still haven't update the missing DIY instructions. Do you happen to have a copy of it? Can you posted it again or email me at [email protected]
Thanks a lot!
darkie3495
Moderator
Hey jerrysc99 and s-one,
not sure if i have a copy of the original instructions but i'm sure i have all the pics. I'll try and fill in the gaps this weekend.
Kevin
not sure if i have a copy of the original instructions but i'm sure i have all the pics. I'll try and fill in the gaps this weekend.
Kevin
I'd appreciate this a well. This seems like a good rainy weekend project.
Thanks Darkie, I have some time off from work next week and it will be a good time for this project. Can't wait to get started!
darkie3495
Moderator
I spoke too soon. Luckily, I made a backup of all my files. Here is the remainder of the original post.
7) Take pictures of the needle positions at rest. It’s very important to keep the gauges accurate throughout.
8) Use the fork to lift the needle off the metal shaft safely. I found the fork is able to lift the needle while keeping it level and it will prevent you from accidentally twisting the needle during removal
9) Remove the gauge face and reveal the white base with the plastic light distribution lens
10) Take care when you are removing the odometer LCD. When you separate the white base and the PCB, do it evenly so you won't damage the prongs.
Note:
- i found it easy to melt one side and carefully lift up that edge just enough to disengage. Then melt the other side to remove with tweezers.
- make sure you clean all old solder off the pads using the wick or solder sucker
- flux each pad
- Tin the pads
- The notch on the LED is the cathode. On the cluster, it has arrows to identify the direction you should place the LED.
- make sure you clean any extra flux off the PCB by using the contact cleaner sprayed on a q-tip after you attach the LED.
Pay close attention to the LCD odometer. Make sure you don't get any fingerprints on the leads or bend the leads when re-inserting the LCD into the PCB.
Once you're done, reassemble in reverse order.
7) Take pictures of the needle positions at rest. It’s very important to keep the gauges accurate throughout.
8) Use the fork to lift the needle off the metal shaft safely. I found the fork is able to lift the needle while keeping it level and it will prevent you from accidentally twisting the needle during removal
9) Remove the gauge face and reveal the white base with the plastic light distribution lens
10) Take care when you are removing the odometer LCD. When you separate the white base and the PCB, do it evenly so you won't damage the prongs.
Note:
- i found it easy to melt one side and carefully lift up that edge just enough to disengage. Then melt the other side to remove with tweezers.
- make sure you clean all old solder off the pads using the wick or solder sucker
- flux each pad
- Tin the pads
- The notch on the LED is the cathode. On the cluster, it has arrows to identify the direction you should place the LED.
- make sure you clean any extra flux off the PCB by using the contact cleaner sprayed on a q-tip after you attach the LED.
Pay close attention to the LCD odometer. Make sure you don't get any fingerprints on the leads or bend the leads when re-inserting the LCD into the PCB.
Once you're done, reassemble in reverse order.
darkie3495
Moderator
I only know one other person who's done this on the 4Runner and he has a sport too. I suspect that the limited speedo will have 3 LED's spread out on the face and 3 LED to light up the needle (similar to the taco's since thier needles light up a diff color than the cluster).
Make sure to take pics.
Good luck.
Kevin
<B>Swap Bulbs for switches</B>
Now that you got the hardest part finished, now it's time to work on the bulbs for the switches and HVAC unit.
Now you put the resistor on one side and a solid core wire on the other side and just wrap the ends around
Use the helping hands to position LED and the holder in place so you can aim the LED toward the back of the switch
Note:
- The positive side of switch is the bottom side for the backlighting, top side for the on indicator.
- The bulb holder for the 3 main switches on the HVAC needs to be drilled out to fit the resistor inside the shaft and maintain factory height. For these bulb holders, you do not have to angle the LED.
- I used 1/8W 1.2k Ohm resistors for all the LED's.
- If you want to change out the indicator lights for the 3 main switches, you have to take apart the HVAC unit and replace all the LED's soldered into the switch PCB. So far I
Hi Darkie3495, i'm just cusrious, is there suppose to be more to instructions for HVAC and Switches? Also how did you get the led into the resister? Does the Led have holes where you can just simply slide the wires into it? In your comment "Now you put the resistor on one side and a solid core wire on the other side and just wrap the ends around" I'm guessing you wrap the wires after you put in the leds? Please clarify. thanks.
darkie3495
Moderator
I didn't include those steps intially. Here is a bit more detail after you take the bulb out of the bulb holder:
1. After you remove the bulb from the bulb holder, you can see that the holder has 2 holes in the center.
2. Thread the resistor through the top and one of the holes.
3. With the end of the resistor sticking out of the bottom, wrap the wire around one end of the holder the same way the original bulb did (there are channels to help this process)
4. clip the excess wire after you wrap.
5. repeat steps 2-4 for the solid core wire.
6. resistor and solid core wire are now exposed on the top of the bulb holder - Picture 5 above
7. position the bulb holder with the exposed leads in the helping hands or something similiar.
8. position the LED in the other helping hand at a 45degree angle to the exposed bulb holder leads so the positive end of the LED is touching the resistor lead and the negative is touching the solid core wire.
9. solder both sides.
10. clip the excess (last pic above).
Hopefully that answers your question. i wrapped the wire and resistor first because it makes it easier to solder the led to both leads when they are stuck in the holder.
One thing i think i forgot to mention is that the bulb holder for the HVAC that are much taller than the switch holders need to be hollowed out a bit for this to work. the theory is still the same, but you just have to take the extra step. I'll try and take a picture of the bulb holder this weekend.
Thanks darkie, by the way, I notice on the solid core wire in bulb holder, there is a black thingy on the base. what is that?
Darkie,
I found a lead what appears to have resister already attached to the lead. below is the link. do you think this one will work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/20x-3mm-White-W...trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1205|293:1|294:50
I found a lead what appears to have resister already attached to the lead. below is the link. do you think this one will work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/20x-3mm-White-W...trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1205|293:1|294:50
darkie3495
Moderator
The black thing is just a little bit of the wire jacket i left on there. it's the same length as the resistor. not really necessary but i like things even (OCD)
The ebay link shows an LED alone. no resistor attached. it looks like they'll send you free resistors though. if you are looking for ones with the resistor already attached, then search for 12v pre-wired LED's. the only issue i see with this route is that it may be a little long for the bulb holders.
if i find time this weekend, i'll take apart one of my bulbs and take more detailed pics of the process.
S-one, i have limited too and there are total of 36 leds. I didn't have enough so i had to order more.
Darkie3495, i just wanted to say thanks for all your help. The fork is pretty nifty. One comment when using the fork, I would tape the bottom of the fork to prevent contact from metal shaft.
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