Factory (style) Fog Light Switch- Fits knock-out!

Thanks bowhun2r.

Think it is possible, you could possibly tie into the high beam wire at the headlight switch. Attached is a Techstream wiring diagram for a 2016 Runner for your review. Caution - Before making any connections, test with a meter to verify proper operation!!!!

Light Green wire (pin #11) should send a ground signal to ECU when stock is moved to high beam or flash to pass position, ECU then triggers high beams. Adding a second relay using LG wire as ground trigger should accomplish what you're trying to achieve without affecting DRL's. Also, make sure relay has an internal diode to prevent back feeding OEM wire, if it doesn't, you will need to add one.

Possible second relay terminal wiring;
30 & 86 - 12 volt battery or ignition (+ positive) fused.
87 - Run to AOB Red wire, this is a + positive output that will trigger LED light relay (main relay).
85 - Light green wire from high beam circuit (- ground trigger).

Please post back with what you find and/or do. Good Luck!


Sweet. Thank you very much. Hope to have all the gear in the next few weeks. Will post back when completed.

Thanks again,
Scott
 
Light Green wire (pin #11) should send a ground signal to ECU when stock is moved to high beam or flash to pass position, ECU then triggers high beams. Adding a second relay using LG wire as ground trigger should accomplish what you're trying to achieve without affecting DRL's. Also, make sure relay has an internal diode to prevent back feeding OEM wire, if it doesn't, you will need to add one.

Possible second relay terminal wiring;
30 & 86 - 12 volt battery or ignition (+ positive) fused.
87 - Run to AOB Red wire, this is a + positive output that will trigger LED light relay (main relay).
85 - Light green wire from high beam circuit (- ground trigger).

Please post back with what you find and/or do. Good Luck!

...gees Barry,

I love when you talk all smart like that "...gives me the tingles!" :wave:
 
Hey Scott,

Been a couple of months now, how'd you make out?

Hi Barry,

Thanks again for all the great posts on this topic. I did purchase the AOB switch and brackets. However, some things have changed with my job. New job is going to require me to travel frequently back-n-forth to DC (3.5 hour easy road trip). My TEP with the current setup lets say isn't the best suited for this travel. I have regretfully decided to trade it in. My buddy was going to buy it, but his wife didn't like the big step up compared to their current SR5 4th gen. So the dealer is going to get it. I still have my wife's 2014 limited 4Runner so that will be delegated to the hunting vehicle come October. With the limited setup the light bar doesn't work :(
 
Hi Barry,

Thanks again for all the great posts on this topic. I did purchase the AOB switch and brackets. However, some things have changed with my job. New job is going to require me to travel frequently back-n-forth to DC (3.5 hour easy road trip). My TEP with the current setup lets say isn't the best suited for this travel. I have regretfully decided to trade it in. My buddy was going to buy it, but his wife didn't like the big step up compared to their current SR5 4th gen. So the dealer is going to get it. I still have my wife's 2014 limited 4Runner so that will be delegated to the hunting vehicle come October. With the limited setup the light bar doesn't work :(

Sorry to hear that Scott, but ya gotta pay the bills.

Best of luck with the new job!
 
Do these fit into the pockets like oem?
I got one that looked just like this on Amazon, but it disnt fit into the pocket, it sticks out about 1/2" further than the oem switches.

Post #38 shows AOB switches mounted, it's a perfect fit!

TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board "4Runner 2010-On" is what you want.

They also fit center console knock outs too......can you say dongle :naughty:
 

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Has anyone mounted these factory style OEM replacement switches in their center console in the heated seat knock-outs to control their fogs?

If so, what wiring are people hooking into to light their switches in the center console?

Did dongle mod a couple of weeks ago, connection was made at shifter illumination circuit indicated by arrows..............

Shifter.jpg

Green wire 12 volts when parking/headlights are turned on, gray wire is ground. These connections will allow illumination circuit of switch to dim with factory rheostat.
 

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Does the console trim just pull straight up to pull off and access? I was thinking of using the console location now as the steering wheel blocks my line of site to the empty knockouts on the dash.
 
Does the console trim just pull straight up to pull off and access? I was thinking of using the console location now as the steering wheel blocks my line of site to the empty knockouts on the dash.

Sure does. What I do is set parking brake, turn key so ignition is on (truck not running), place foot on brake and move shift to natural (gives you a little extra room to remove cover). Unscrew shifter knob and 4WD knob (if equipped), starting at the front and pull up on cover unclipping it, then work your way around cover releasing balance of clips. A plastic panel removal tool can also help. Once completely unclipped, lift up enough to release electrical plugs (rear window switch, electronic 4WD if equipped), remove console cover, shift back into park, turn key off. Easy peasy
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I have a question about wiring the AOB switch. I couldn't relocate an old post about this same issue. I'm using a Rigid Radiance harness and AOB switch. I'm not gonna bother with the "backlight" option right now. Just want to get the basics working. Like it does with the supplied switches (non AOB, 3 prong).

The led light on the switch is always on, which is not good. I don't care about dimming features either. Do I have to tap into RSCA grey and green wire, and will this turn the switch light off, until dash lights are on?

Pretty confused at this point. Electrical is not my gig.
 
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but I have a question about wiring the AOB switch. I couldn't relocate an old post about this same issue. I'm using a Rigid Radiance harness and AOB switch. I'm not gonna bother with the "backlight" option right now. Just want to get the basics working. Like it does with the supplied switches (non AOB, 3 prong).

The led light on the switch is always on, which is not good. I don't care about dimming features either. Do I have to tap into RSCA grey wire, and will this turn the switch light off, until dash lights are on?

Pretty confused at this point. Electrical is not my gig.

In my 2010 4runner, here is what I did. As always, check your wires with a voltage meter first to avoid making a pricey mistake.

For the record, I made the following connections:

AOB Green wire to Rigid harness Red wire (12v +)
AOB Red wire to Rigid harness Blue wire (relay switch)
AOB Blue wire to OEM RSCA Green wire (dash illumination)
AOB Black wire to OEM RSCA Gray wire (dash illumination ground dimming)
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I have a question about wiring the AOB switch. I couldn't relocate an old post about this same issue. I'm using a Rigid Radiance harness and AOB switch. I'm not gonna bother with the "backlight" option right now. Just want to get the basics working. Like it does with the supplied switches (non AOB, 3 prong).

The led light on the switch is always on, which is not good. I don't care about dimming features either. Do I have to tap into RSCA grey and green wire, and will this turn the switch light off, until dash lights are on?

Pretty confused at this point. Electrical is not my gig.

Sounds like you reversed the power and lead wires (I've done it that's how I know!), check your schematics included with AOB switch, I'm assuming you also have a relay in there as the radiance don't come with a wiring harness.

Above is what you need from 4funnr but you don't need to tap factory wiring for it to work.
 
No, I bought the recommended harness with the Radiance. Seemed pretty simple, and it was with the supplied Rigid switches. Granted, they aren't illuminated or any other bling. But they worked.

At this point, I'd be happy to just press the AOB and have my LED bar light up, and don't really care about dimming or illumination with dash lights, etc etc
 
No, I bought the recommended harness with the Radiance. Seemed pretty simple, and it was with the supplied Rigid switches. Granted, they aren't illuminated or any other bling. But they worked.

At this point, I'd be happy to just press the AOB and have my LED bar light up, and don't really care about dimming or illumination with dash lights, etc etc

Ok, blind leading the blind here, you should only need three wires connected for the AOB switch to activate a light bar. Once it's grounded correctly if you hook the other two backwards the led in the switch will stay on constantly, when I did that accidentally, I just swapped those two wires and all was good, this was with my rigid D2's I think, it may be different for you.

I am not familiar with what harness you have and given the extra backlighting with the radiance that could be an issue, so you might compare the AOB instructions to the harness directions, they may use different terms for the same wires but start with ground and work from there. As stated, using a meter is the proper way to diagnose, but if you don't have or don't know how to use one that doesn't help much. When in doubt, post pictures of what you have and someone that understands electrical work can likely tell you exactly how to fix it.
 
No, I bought the recommended harness with the Radiance. Seemed pretty simple, and it was with the supplied Rigid switches. Granted, they aren't illuminated or any other bling. But they worked.

At this point, I'd be happy to just press the AOB and have my LED bar light up, and don't really care about dimming or illumination with dash lights, etc etc

Can you confirm if this is the harness you have?

Rigid Industries #40200 Radiance Backlight Multi Trigger Wiring Harness
$_35.jpg
 

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Yes, that is the harness I have.

Can't tell from picture wire colors, but I'm going to assume (at switches) are red, white, and black.

Switch #1 (main)
1) Red wire - Hot lead, 12v positive +, terminal #30 on relay
2) White wire - Trigger wire, when switch is turned on, 12v is sent to relay (terminal #86 on relay) which engages relay turning on light bar
3) Ground wire negative -, would be ground for illumination circuit on switch when turned on.

Switch #2 (backlight)
1) Red wire - Hot lead, 12v positive +, terminal #30 on relay
2) White wire - Trigger wire, when switch is turned on 12v is sent to 3rd wire in light bar which turns on backlight. Note: This circuit does not run through relay thus whatever draw backlighting has runs through switch. AOB switches have a max amperage throughput of 3amps.
3) Ground wire negative -, would be ground for illumination circuit on switch when turned on.

AOB Switch Wires;
Black - Connect to gray factory wire (- dimming) outlined in link.
Blue - Connect to green factory wire (+) outlined in link
Note: if not connecting to factory illumination circuit, connect Black wire from Rigid harness and do not connect Blue wire

Red - Connect to relay trigger wire (power out of switch to relay when switch is engaged/turned on)
Green - Connect to hot lead from relay (power into switch)

Hope this helps.
 

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